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Old 04-23-2012, 07:42 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Tacking caps on axle joints...

I've been doing some reading about the D30 and have come across many suggestions to throw a tack weld on the caps to keep them from popping out of place. What I didn't read is if its ok for a DD, or should this be only done on trail rigs.

Any thoughts?
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Old 04-23-2012, 07:46 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I had Randy do it to my CTM's in my 60. Seems to have worked on his first Bomber, for four years of KOH.
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Old 04-23-2012, 07:55 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I really seems to be a problem with the TJ shafts. You can put a couple tacks on each side if you want. I haven't had any problems, but maybe my time is coming.
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Old 04-23-2012, 08:04 PM   #4 (permalink)
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the caps are small if you have access to a tig have at it, a mig might do some damage to the needle bearings if it's to hot.
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Old 04-23-2012, 09:27 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Look at Iron Rock Off Road. They sell weld on "tabs" that cover the end caps. They call them almost alloy axle tabs. I put a set on my D30 shafts. Looks like it will keep the ears from oblonging and ripping open.
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Old 04-23-2012, 10:13 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I tacked my u-joint caps on my 44 well over 5 years ago.
Make sure to not add much heat, and packed them with grease.

I might not wheel as hard as some, but running bald 38" I never broke one of the Spicer u-joints.
I did break a rear mini spool & axle shaft on the 9". Plus a few drive shafts and I forget how many rear pinion u-joints.
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Old 04-24-2012, 07:02 AM   #7 (permalink)
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And this is on vehicles that see a lot of street time? I can't see any reason why it would make a difference but just want to make sure.

Last edited by KBR97; 04-24-2012 at 07:03 AM.
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Old 04-24-2012, 09:11 AM   #8 (permalink)
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It wouldn't make a difference on street.
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Old 04-24-2012, 09:53 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1tuffyj View Post
It wouldn't make a difference on street.
Ok. I had a feeling it wouldn't make a difference, but wanted to make sure before going ahead with it.
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Old 04-25-2012, 01:08 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KBR97 View Post
I've been doing some reading about the D30 and have come across many suggestions to throw a tack weld on the caps to keep them from popping out of place. What I didn't read is if its ok for a DD, or should this be only done on trail rigs.

Any thoughts?
My recommendation: run big u-joint (760x) shafts with good Spicer joints. The almost alloy "strap" kits are the best option, but tacking the caps will help as well.

I would do several tacks, as I have broken countless tack welds, and started spinning/shooting caps. As others mentioned, do not add too much heat. I have cooked the grease out of them before.
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Old 04-25-2012, 01:47 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KBR97 View Post
I've been doing some reading about the D30 and have come across many suggestions to throw a tack weld on the caps to keep them from popping out of place. What I didn't read is if its ok for a DD, or should this be only done on trail rigs.

Any thoughts?

My recommendation: run big u-joint (760x) shafts with good Spicer joints. The almost alloy "strap" kits are the best option, but tacking the caps will help as well.

I would do several tacks, as I have broken countless tack welds, and started spinning/shooting caps. As others mentioned, do not add too much heat. I have cooked the grease out of them before.

No issues for a DD if done correctly.
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Old 04-25-2012, 02:08 PM   #12 (permalink)
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after breaking the tacks on my 44 i bought chromo shafts wich are machined to accept full circle snap rings (could make stock ones work too with a lil grinding) no problems since and can still pull apart for servicing.
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Old 04-25-2012, 02:30 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I've done it for years on D44 -- the only problem I ran into was getting the axle shaft into or out of the knuckle if I left the welds to tall. It also made it very hard to get a broken shaft out of the knuckle if the welded caps stayed in place and the ears on the shaft flared out...
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Old 04-25-2012, 02:37 PM   #14 (permalink)
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id did this also on my DD xj.......them i went to chromos and stopped having the spining cap problem
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Old 04-25-2012, 02:44 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I'm going to at least get the outer stubs with the big joints. Also do a re-gear (4.56) and lockers over the summer. If I have some money left over maybe I can get the inners too.

Axles and re-gearing is pretty expensive so I have to stay budget minded. I might even skip the selectable rear locker for now, and just get a front locker. That will save me quite a chunk of money that I can put towards labor. I've been putting all this off for a while but it needs to be done.

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Old 04-25-2012, 07:34 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Just scored a HP30 on craigslist for $60
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Old 08-14-2012, 04:18 PM   #17 (permalink)
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any more feedback on the "almost alloy" caps from iron rock?

kinda looking for 'i still break joints all the time' or 'it solved my problem' sorta reviews
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Old 08-14-2012, 10:46 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Seems pretty legit to me.
I just tacked my caps. The only thing I didnt like about it is when I had a ujoint break I couldnt really tell because of the caps tacked on.

The setup is cheap enough if it doesnt work, not much lossed... But if it helps out then your savin some serious cash by fixing your breakage problem cheap enough.
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Old 08-15-2012, 05:42 AM   #19 (permalink)
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I had a busted u joint as well. Didnt know it cause the caps were tack welded on. Unless u joint is serviceable I wouldn't tack them. The heat from weld will do away with the little bit of grease that's in the caps which will lead to premature wear over short period of time.

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Old 08-15-2012, 06:53 AM   #20 (permalink)
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The iron rock caps I think would put more heat into the cap then a few tack welds. Also I'm not sure on a regular 44 that you could get the axle shafts through thr knuckle. I've tacked them in the past. And right now I've ground my stock shafts to accept full snap rings so far so good.
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Old 08-15-2012, 04:57 PM   #21 (permalink)
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well, im gonna give em a try on my HP30. i have several sets of complete inner and outer spares so i wont have to try changing a joint to get home if one does go. ill go easy on the amperage.

my truck doesnt really get driven enough to wear out joints, and id rather them be solid that cored for grease ports.
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Old 08-15-2012, 07:49 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Tacked the caps on my d30 when I replaced the u-joints, no problems so far and they've been like that for awhile now.
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Old 06-09-2013, 04:24 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Anbody got any feedback on the IRO tabs? I'll be putting New 760's in my D30 soon and am wondering if the IRO tabs add strength, or should I just machine for clips and tack weld.
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Old 06-09-2013, 08:44 AM   #24 (permalink)
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I can't see buying simple tabs like those. If you have to weld, you have metal working tools. If I was interested in that concept, I'd just weld on a 3/4" wide 1/8" thick self made strap.
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Old 06-09-2013, 08:45 AM   #25 (permalink)
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I messed up a shaft (ended up egging the yolks? from the caps spinning out tacked the next set went on one trip and broke the yolks off the shaft. Never noticed any difference on road though id do it
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