Motor Rebuild Questions AMC 360 1979 Jeep J10 - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 02-20-2014, 06:12 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Motor Rebuild Questions AMC 360 1979 Jeep J10

Looking for some info on rebuilding a 1979 Jeep J10 Motor. Has 120k original miles on an AMC 360 Motor. I am looking to convert the intake to a quad barrel intake and am looking for a quad barrel carb to on it. I basically have no idea where to get this stuff or what to get. I have the tools and all to do the rebuild and will sub out the machine work needing to be done. What I am looking for (links would be awesome!) is:
1. Four barrel intake that will fit the motor
2. Four barrel carb that will fit the motor
3. Motor rebuild kit with: timing chain, rings, rod and main bearings, complete gasket set, cam bearings
4. Anything else I will need?

More build info will come but this is my first step. I'll post build pics as I go, just needing the info on what it is I need, and where to possible get it.


Thanks to everyone!
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Old 02-21-2014, 07:50 PM   #2 (permalink)
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You can get most, if not all, of the parts you need from summitracing.com. I rebuilt a 360 from a 1978 J20, and that's where I got the majority of the parts. If you can't get it from summit, look at bulltear.com.

Do a search, and you'll find plenty of info, but here are a few things that bear repeating.

1.) If you change the distributor, make sure that you use a matched cam gear/distributor gear set. In other words, if you get a new distributor, don't use the new distributor gear with the old cam gear. You can take the gear off your old distributor and use it on the new one, or get a matched set from bullear. The hardness between the old and new gears is different, so if you mix and match it will lead to disaster.

2.) Do not use the summit camshaft and lifters. I read about people having problems with them destroying lifters, and I tried it anyways. Ended poorly.

3.) Speaking of lifters, these engines use flat tappet lifters, as do most older engines. They need zinc in the oil. Use a zinc additive when you break it in, and use an oil that has a high zinc content.

There is a ton more info out there, check out ifsja.org, fsjnetwork.com, and the forum on bulltear.com.
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Old 02-21-2014, 09:59 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Take the block in an get it bored an decked with that many miles it should get bored .have the heads gone thru an get the crank shaft an the rest of the rotating mass balanced.
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Old 02-22-2014, 06:08 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Be careful getting the block decked. The stock rocker arms are not adjustable (valve lash), so if you get too much material taken off, the cylinder head will sit too low, and the pushrods will push the valves slightly off their seats.

Make sure the machinist is familiar with AMC engines, there are a few nuances they may not be aware of if they only know Chevy, ford, etc engines.....
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Old 02-24-2014, 09:55 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Have them check bore thickness before getting it bored. Some of the AMC castings were a little thin on the bores and were at about their limit with a .030 bore, the thicker blocks could be taken out to .060 safely. These blocks had a pretty high nickel content and tended to wear very well so you might get by with only a glaze breaker hone job depending on what you find when you pull the heads.

There is actually a fair amount of performance parts available for these motors, Bulltear.com is a great place to look for parts, they specialize in AMC engines and AMC performance and have solutions to just about all the inherent issues with them.
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Old 02-24-2014, 10:40 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironmangq View Post
Some of the AMC castings were a little thin on the bores and were at about their limit with a .030 bore, the thicker blocks could be taken out to .060 safely. These blocks had a pretty high nickel content and tended to wear very well so you might get by with only a glaze breaker hone job depending on what you find when you pull the heads.
On the 401 but not the 360.
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