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Old 12-03-2017, 09:05 PM   #126 (permalink)
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This is definitely one of those weekends where it feels like I didn't get much of anything done. Spent all weekend working on the suspension, mostly the cross member. There wasn't enough space between the cross member and the floor for the Jeep, so I made the decision to cut the floorboard. Since I decided on cutting the floor, I went ahead and figured I'd raise the cross member to get it up further.

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Since we were slicing and dicing we decided to notch the LCA mounts to move them up a bit. When we did this it was getting pretty late and we were many beers into the night, and didn't take into account the clearance between the heim joint and the cross member.

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Because of this I spent most of today notching the space between the LCA mounts.

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I'm probably only halfway through with the cross member. I still need to finish the LCA mounts, UCA mount, and figure how it's going to mount the the frame rails. I may still need to make room for the driveshaft and the exhaust.

Hole in the floorboard.

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Old 02-05-2018, 08:33 PM   #127 (permalink)
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Well now that the holidays are over and everything has settled down, I'm finally able to get some more work done. The cross member is around 95% finished. Next step is to plate the front frame rails so that the trackbar mount can be welded in place.
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Old 02-06-2018, 05:34 AM   #128 (permalink)
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Finally able to get a picture to apear right side up.

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Old 03-04-2018, 12:00 PM   #129 (permalink)
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Iíve still been having issues uploading from my new computer so Iíll just use my phone. Over the last couple of weeks Iíve made enough progress that this Friday I was able to flex the front end and even set it on all 4 tires for the first time in forever. Next comes the steering. The box needs to be move forward a couple of inches so everything clears and I need to get the pitman arm reamed for the TRE. Hopefully Iíll get that done this week along with burning everything in for good.









One of these days Iíll actually be able to get some pictures during the day time.

Things to do:
Steering
Shocks
Assemble front end
Bump stops
Limit straps
Exhaust
Regear the rear end



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Old 05-08-2018, 08:53 AM   #130 (permalink)
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Finally got the picture orientation issue figured out. With the heim 3 link, the front has no real limit on flex, which means the rear is pretty stiff. The springs are essentially still new, so I'm hoping they'll break in with some use. I'm also looking into different spring combinations for the front, as I'd like to keep them seated they way it sits in the pictures. I may end up running a combination of Metalcloak's dual rate springs with ACOS on top of them. For now I'm just going to run it this way with some old 5100s for a 3.5" lift from a JK if they fit. I need to get it tagged so that I can start knocking out some work on the JK and truck, plus a million other items on the to-do list.

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Old 02-06-2019, 01:02 PM   #131 (permalink)
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Damn I can't believe it's been this long since I've updated this thread. I was pretty busy last year finishing up school and some other things going on. Now that I'm done with school, military, and some other BS, I've had more time to work on this project. I was able to get it inspected and registered today, so I can begin driving it around. The engine still has less than 100 miles on it since the rebuild.
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Old 04-01-2019, 05:37 AM   #132 (permalink)
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Well, after finally getting the front end and exhaust put together, it was time to start getting miles on the engine. The first few days went well, but the engine started running rough and developed a noticeable knock. I took the oil pan off and found this.

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I have no plans to tear this apart to rebuild. From here I've got a few options.

1. put in a crate motor - this is the easiest, quickest, and likely most inexpensive option
2. put in a newer OBD2 crate motor - about the same cost as a renix crate motor, but with the added benefit of a newer wiring harness, better diagnostics, etc
3. put in a stroker - more fun, but how durable will this be?
4. V8 swap - most expensive and time consuming, but plenty of power on tap
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1989 XJ on 35s Work in Progress

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Old 04-01-2019, 05:43 AM   #133 (permalink)
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The best 4.0 is a stock 4.0.
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Old 04-01-2019, 09:42 AM   #134 (permalink)
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Quote:
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The best 4.0 is a stock 4.0.


I agree which is exactly why the rebuild was done with no performance parts. The only reason why the stroker was listed is companies are now offering them as crate engines. I have not looked into feedback on those yet.


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Old 04-03-2019, 07:25 PM   #135 (permalink)
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Ordered an LQ4 out of this 05 H2 today. Will be gathering additional parts over the next few weeks.

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Old 04-05-2019, 05:19 AM   #136 (permalink)
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The project is adding up quick. I ordered the LQ4, the matching 4L65E, Novak motor mounts, and their bare headers. $2400 with shipping for everything. I should have the Jeep stripped down and cleaned up in the next couple of weeks. Should be able to recoup some of the funds from selling the parts.
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Old 04-05-2019, 05:22 AM   #137 (permalink)
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Better order some extra frame plating!
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Old 04-05-2019, 05:32 AM   #138 (permalink)
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It's already been plated from the front back to the rear springs.
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Old 04-16-2019, 05:55 AM   #139 (permalink)
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Picked up the engine and transmission yesterday.

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Old 04-26-2019, 12:37 AM   #140 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GFY Racing View Post
Well, after finally getting the front end and exhaust put together, it was time to start getting miles on the engine. The first few days went well, but the engine started running rough and developed a noticeable knock. I took the oil pan off and found this.

Attachment 2925124

I have no plans to tear this apart to rebuild. From here I've got a few options.

1. put in a crate motor - this is the easiest, quickest, and likely most inexpensive option
2. put in a newer OBD2 crate motor - about the same cost as a renix crate motor, but with the added benefit of a newer wiring harness, better diagnostics, etc
3. put in a stroker - more fun, but how durable will this be?
4. V8 swap - most expensive and time consuming, but plenty of power on tap
While I applaud your use of an LQ4 in your build, I'm having a hard time understanding what is wrong with the crank bearings in your pic. I see the outer .0001 layer of babbit worn away in a few places, but that's about all I see going on there. That was definitely not the source of any knock.
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Old 04-26-2019, 07:27 AM   #141 (permalink)
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The picture is a bit deceiving. There is far more wear than .0001. There may be another cause of the knock, but I'm not tearing into it any further than I have.
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Old 05-02-2019, 12:56 PM   #142 (permalink)
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Looking good man. I’ll be looking for updates
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Old 06-06-2019, 01:51 PM   #143 (permalink)
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Not much in the way of updates. I ordered new gaskets/seals/etc, only to find that one of the cylinders had bad rings. Went ahead and tore everything down and dropped it off at the machine shop this past Monday. I should have it back in a week or two. I'll paint the block and some of the aluminum parts and re-assemble it. In the mean time, I need to drop the gas tank so I can figure out what to do about a fuel pump, and start working through the wiring harness.

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Old 08-15-2019, 08:54 AM   #144 (permalink)
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Progress has been slow this summer, but I'm making some headway. I dropped the block, heads, crank, pistons, etc at the machine shop to get cleaned up. Thankfully nothing needed boring so he cleaned and honed everything. The crank was polished and he mentioned that it was at the outter limits of clearance secification so running a high volume pump would be a good idea.

When I got the block back, it still had a bit of rust and old paint so I bought a harbor freigh soda blaster and got to work. Once it was as clean as I could get it, I masked it off and painted it Chevy orage.

This will be completely stock asside from a new cam. One of the members in the local Jeep club also works at Texas Speed and Performance, so we discussed my build and came up with a custom cam. I'm told this will add about 40HP over stock once it's tuned. That should bump the output to around 380HP at the crank

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Old 09-09-2019, 07:27 AM   #145 (permalink)
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A buddy came over this weekend to give me a hand mocking up the engine in place. There are some slight clearance issues with the firewall right where it transitions to the transmission tunnel. With a little love from the sledge, and trimming the fins on the bellhousing slightly, we were able to have some clearance between the firewall and bellhousing. The Novak mounts have three positions that the block can be mounted. I think that with the motor mounted all the way forward and the mounts tightened, it should give close to a 1/2" of clearance between the bellhousing and firewall. I didn't get any pictures once we clearanced everything, but you can see from the pictures of just how little space there will be.

I also decided to go ahead and modify the crossmember while everything is out of the Jeep. I measured from the bellhousing back to the crossmember, and it looks like the 4L65E mount will be the same distance back as the AW4 mount was, so modifying the crossmember will be pretty strait forward. We went ahead and cut the center out and welded the sides up to the frame stiffeners. Now the next time I need to drop the transmission, I don't need to entire Jeep and front axle.

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Old 09-11-2019, 06:57 AM   #146 (permalink)
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My goal is to have the engine assembled enough to sit it in the engine bay this weekend or early next week, however being new to the LS platform is proving to be more of a learning curve than I was anticipating. I installed the pistons on the connecting rods and into the block Monday night. Last night I planned on installing the timing chain, oil pump, pickup tube, etc. Unfortunately after installing the crank timing gear, I realized the cam thrust plate was worn. I didn't notice previously since it was covered in oil and I just threw it in the ziplock bag with the bolts. This one part stopped any progress on assembly. I could theoretically go ahead and put lifters, push rods, and heads on, but with the cam not being secured, I'm sure I'd regret doing so.

On a side note, heating the crank timing gear in the oven at 350 for a half hour worked like a charm. It slid most of the way on and I was able to tap it the rest of the way on with a hammer.

While I'm waiting for the thrust plate to show up, I need to start working on the wiring harness and get the ECU shipped out for reprogramming.

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Old 09-12-2019, 06:26 AM   #147 (permalink)
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More work getting done. Started tearing into the wiring harness last night. I removed all the pins from the ECU plugs, so all that's left is to pull out any unnecessary wires from the harness, and re-wrap it. I've been watching the videos that Brenden put up on youtube (lt1swap). Unfortunetly it's difficutl to see which plugs he's working with, and I accidently cut off the TAC module plug.

Not that big of a deal. I'll crimp on some new terminals and only lose about 2" of wiring.

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Old 09-12-2019, 07:11 AM   #148 (permalink)
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Can you buy a conversion harness? Seems like that would be way easier.
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Old 09-12-2019, 07:20 AM   #149 (permalink)
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Can you buy a conversion harness? Seems like that would be way easier.
You can buy brand new stand alone harnesses, for the low low cost of $500

I'm already going to be into the swap for over 3k. Looking to save money where possible. Also, the factory harness is in pretty good shape, so there's really no reason to ditch it. Just need to clean it up a bit and remove unnecessary circuits.
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Old 09-13-2019, 05:26 AM   #150 (permalink)
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The new bearing retainer plate arrived yesterday. I was able to finish assembling the bottom end before leaving for sports events for the kids for the rest of the day. The heads will be installed after work today.

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