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Old 05-03-2016, 01:16 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Breaking in New Front Gears with Locking Hubs

Maybe I'm overthinking this, but how do you break in new front gears on a Dana 44 axle with locking hubs?

The new gears won't turn unless the hubs are engaged. The hubs won't be engaged unless I'm offroad. There's no way to "baby" the gears and break them in as recommended below. And 500 miles of break in, as recommended below would be years of offroad use.

Should I just do a few offroad runs, change the gear oil and call it good?



From the Yukon Manual:
"New Gear Break-In
All new gear sets require a break-in period to prevent overheating damage. Any overloading or overheating will break down the gear oil, which will cause the ring and pinion to fail. This can be determined by inspection and will void the gears’ warranty.
Please follow these guidelines to insure proper break-in.
- Avoid heavy acceleration during the break-in process.
- Drive the vehicle lightly for the first 15 to 20 miles and stop. Let the differential cool before proceeding.
- Avoid heavy acceleration for the first 100 miles.
- Drive the vehicle at least 500 miles before towing to retain the gears’ warranty.
- When towing for the first time, drive for a very short distances (less than 15 miles) with the full load and stop. Let the differential cool for about 20 minutes before proceeding. Repeat this procedure two more times (45 miles total) to fully break in the gears.
- Change the oil after the first 500 miles. This will remove any metal particles and phosphoric coating shed by the gear set during the gears’ break-in period.
These towing instructions may seem unnecessary to most people, but we have seen many differentials damaged from being loaded before the gear set was fully broken-in. "
End of Yukon Manual
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Old 05-03-2016, 06:55 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Pretty much. My gear guy said to do a few easy 4wd trips, change the oil, then drive it like you stole it.
There's not a single person on this earth that has done the whole break-in routine for their front axle.
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Old 05-03-2016, 07:44 PM   #3 (permalink)
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You can have the hubs locked and be on the road. Just leave the transfer case selector in 2WD.
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Old 05-03-2016, 10:39 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Those guys at the factory must run the piss out of all those new rigs at lunch time every day, before they ship them out to the dealerships .

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Old 05-04-2016, 08:28 AM   #5 (permalink)
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the 500 mile break is just a warranty "gotcha".

I tell my customers to drive for like 5 minutes, let it cool, 10 minutes let it cool then do like a 30 min trip and let it cool without any harsh braking, then drain and inspect for any issues.

You can def tell when someone beat on gears without any sort of heat cycle on them.
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Old 05-05-2016, 09:21 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Hmm, I wonder what the drag strip folks do?
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Old 05-05-2016, 09:24 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Hmm, I wonder what the drag strip folks do?
We use to cruise around a walmart parking lot haha, oh the looks.
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Old 05-06-2016, 09:43 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Gearsets specifically make for drag racing aren't the same as gearsets meant to go down the highway. They make a crapload of noise as part of the tradeoff of being able to take shockloading with no break in required.
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Old 05-08-2016, 02:40 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Gearsets specifically make for drag racing aren't the same as gearsets meant to go down the highway. They make a crapload of noise as part of the tradeoff of being able to take shockloading with no break in required.
Which companies sell those? Ive never heard of drag racing specific gears
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Old 05-08-2016, 04:48 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Richmond does I know. I think they classify them as a high nickel gear set. Whatever they call it it's a different alloy. They are softer for impact loading but don't work well in continuous operation cycles like street driving or road racing.
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Old 05-08-2016, 04:53 PM   #11 (permalink)
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What differential are you running? Unless it's welded or a spool, you can lock the hubs and drive around town. Better would be to cruise down a dirt road in 4 Hi.
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Old 05-08-2016, 07:00 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I have let a rig run for an hour on the lift in 4 high to start the break-in process.
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Old 05-09-2016, 07:35 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Strange

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dugan1 View Post
Which companies sell those? Ive never heard of drag racing specific gears

http://strangeengineering.net/

Dam... These people make some nice stuff!!!
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Old 05-09-2016, 08:05 AM   #14 (permalink)
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http://strangeengineering.net/

Dam... These people make some nice stuff!!!
yea strange makes some killer shit, they have a center diff for top fuels thats like 30k$. Ive just never seen someone offer a gear set they say doesnt require some sort of break in. Even strange doesnt list no break in.
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Old 05-09-2016, 08:21 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Search this topic and user name RacingRon. He has run a few gear companies and discussed gear break in.
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Old 05-09-2016, 11:22 AM   #16 (permalink)
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IMO, it would be better to run with the t-case in 4hi and the hubs unlocked. That loads the gears lightly in the drive direction, while locking the hubs with the t-case in 2wd will load the gears opposite of how they'll be loaded most of the time, so it doesn't provide as much of a useful break-in.
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Old 05-15-2016, 10:02 AM   #17 (permalink)
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just lock the wheel

Last edited by brownbagg; 05-15-2016 at 10:03 AM.
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