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Old 12-13-2016, 05:11 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Your 4.0L Radiator/Fan Setup!?

Looking for cooling system set up experiences. I have an all aluminum champion 3-row radiator that gave up the ghost after only 3 years and the "lifetime" warranty is void because I took my jeep off the pavement god forbid. Anyways what set up are you guys running in your rigs? Looking for a direction to go with my TJ like the idea of an upgrade but didn't work the first time around. I am leaning towards getting an OEM radiator and new fan shroud(mine is super broken) sticking with the mechanical fan, a system I know works.
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Old 12-13-2016, 06:59 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Go with the OEM radiator and OEM belt driven fan...
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Old 12-15-2016, 10:45 AM   #3 (permalink)
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OEM

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Go with the OEM radiator and OEM belt driven fan...
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Old 12-15-2016, 12:15 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Definitely stick with the stock setup. Even the cheap OEM style radiators work better than some of those cheap aftermarket ones
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Old 12-15-2016, 12:18 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I called 1-800-radiator. I think it was like $120 to my door the next day.
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Old 12-15-2016, 07:05 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I called 1-800-radiator. I think it was like $120 to my door the next day.
Is it an OEM designed radiator?...
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Old 12-16-2016, 10:09 PM   #7 (permalink)
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i have a 94 wrangler with a 4.6 stroker, i put on a cj front clip and it has a mike's steering box relocation bracket that interferes with the lower radiator hose. the radiator is a champion aluminum, ford contour dual electric fans and a spal pwm controller. radiator has a warn 8274 in front of it. it cools fine at slow speed but overheats in the summer on freefreeway. i will probably on a US radiators optima 3 or 4 core and modify the lower hose fitting to clear the steering. Tim
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Old 12-18-2016, 05:16 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I called 1-800-radiator. I think it was like $120 to my door the next day.
1-800 Radiator and Champion are the same radiators I will not ever buy one again since the inner core line broke where they epoxy it. Also the "lifetime" warranty is voided once you go off road.

I am looking at the FF dynamics one for a stock mopar one is $300 from the dealer just for the radiator. I would still need a new fan shroud which they said is another 150. (Sounds ungodly expensive)
Haven't been able to find actual OEM radiators new online not replacement ones "up to spec" from china.
Its 479 plus free shipping and the fan pulls 3000cfm. Also their lifetime warranty is actually a lifetime warranty with no bs provisions. So if it nukes I can just get a new one.
Jeep Wrangler Stage 3 Extreme System w/ Aluminum Radiator | FF Dynamics

I know many people run there XJ set up and love it and it will be nice to turn off the fan when I play in the deep mud so I don't keep breaking fan shrouds.
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Old 12-18-2016, 06:33 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I have a used stock setup( fan, shroud,radiator) I'll let go for $150 plus shipping



Let me know
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Old 12-18-2016, 11:15 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Champion is crap. I also found out the hard way. I think all the cheapish aluminum ones are Chinese and you might get a year or two out of them. I just found my "Wizard" rad has a leak in it. I think it's been a little over a year and a half. If I have to do it again, I will probably suck it up and spend the bucks for a CBR, Novak or some other reputable brand aluminum job.
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Old 12-18-2016, 11:20 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Knuckelhead View Post
Go with the OEM radiator and OEM belt driven fan...
That's what I did. Even with a broken shroud it never had a problem.
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Old 12-19-2016, 05:18 AM   #12 (permalink)
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$500 for a radiator and fan is dumb.
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Old 12-19-2016, 02:58 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I've had a Novak and a Champion and about 2 other el cheapo aluminum radiators. My '98's stock radiator went out at 40K miles. Fast forward after running numerous expensive but leaky radiators, I finally went back to OEM (they no longer leak). It doesn't cool as well, but it doesn't leak either! I still run the flex fan I installed with the novak years ago. should probably go back to a stock clutch fan too.
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Old 12-19-2016, 03:12 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I finally went back to OEM. It doesn't cool as well. I still run the flex fan I installed with the novak years ago. should probably go back to a stock clutch fan too.
You answered your own question. That flex fan is worthless.

Like o wow man. My Jeep doesn't cool well. Think it could be the fan I put in years ago ? Dumbass.......
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Old 12-19-2016, 04:34 PM   #15 (permalink)
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OEM. I run an all metal radiator and it runs a few degrees cooler, and is not needed.
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Old 12-23-2016, 09:42 AM   #16 (permalink)
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A lot of people have had good luck mounting up electric fans from the first-gen Ford Taurus. They're just the right width and easy to wire up, and then you have the capability of wiring them to a switch to shut off if you need to cross a particularly deep section of water. You just have to definitely remember to do so, or those plastic fan blades will tear themselves apart in the water.

Otherwise, the OEM fan and fan clutch are really hard to beat.
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Old 12-23-2016, 08:11 PM   #17 (permalink)
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i have a 94 wrangler with a 4.6 stroker, i put on a cj front clip and it has a mike's steering box relocation bracket that interferes with the lower radiator hose. the radiator is a champion aluminum, ford contour dual electric fans and a spal pwm controller. radiator has a warn 8274 in front of it. it cools fine at slow speed but overheats in the summer on freefreeway. i will probably on a US radiators optima 3 or 4 core and modify the lower hose fitting to clear the steering. Tim
The radiator has one core...
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Old 12-24-2016, 07:23 AM   #18 (permalink)
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The radiator has one core...
Jeep - Radiators 3 core, tim
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Old 12-24-2016, 07:29 AM   #19 (permalink)
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$500 for a radiator and fan is dumb.
A good radiator will cost $600 alone for a copper brass, I have found that the cheap aluminum ones are cheap quality and dont cool as good as a good copper brass radiator. I run them behind 600+ hp engines without problems where the aluminum ones overheat. Tim
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Old 12-24-2016, 07:54 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Some homework on the thermal dynamics of heat transfer is well worth your time.
Things like the ability to conduct heat vs. the ability to dissipate heat are prime examples.

Surface area and fin counts are another good area to study. Look for honest SAE engineering papers not some magazine writer of web site advertiser.

There is a reason things work as they do. It might not be apparent or obvious. It may even go against what you`ve learned on the internet .
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Old 12-24-2016, 07:18 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Jeep - Radiators 3 core, tim
The radiator only has one core.
It may have more than one row but still only has one core...
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Old 01-22-2017, 07:49 PM   #22 (permalink)
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You answered your own question. That flex fan is worthless.

Like o wow man. My Jeep doesn't cool well. Think it could be the fan I put in years ago ? Dumbass.......
my radiator cools fine, though not as good as a novak...The issue was ALWAYS crappy aluminum radiators getting holes in them (the Novak developed holes within 3K miles, as did the champions). that has zero to do with the flex fan. i could return the insult but why argue with an idiot.
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Last edited by Greg_Volkman; 01-22-2017 at 07:52 PM.
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Old 01-22-2017, 08:46 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I have 30,000+ miles on my Novak 2 row aluminum radiator without any problems...
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Old 02-02-2017, 12:54 PM   #24 (permalink)
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I run a 2-row copper/brass radiator, 2-speed Volvo electric fan, Volvo fan controller wired to manual switches, and a BMW 2-speed fan switch. My shroud consists of a piece of aluminum plate bolted to the radiator... no "ducting", just a big hole cut it in. 30,000+ miles and I haven't had a single overheating problem - except when I forget to turn on the fan in manual mode. Doh!
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Old 02-02-2017, 06:11 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Pic's???...
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