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Old 03-26-2019, 01:02 PM   #126 (permalink)
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Looks good.

What prep did you use before the Rust Bullet?
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Old 03-26-2019, 02:18 PM   #127 (permalink)
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Have you thought about using chain for your steps instead of tube? On my jeep buggy I had to install a step on the pass side so my wife could get in easier. I just bolted a length of chain in. It hangs down like a step all the time, but will deflect out of the way when hitting an obstacle. Cheap to replace too if it ever gets worn out or breaks. I think the only real downside is the fact that it swings when you put your weight on it, but your tube steps seem like they would swing also.

Just a thought.

At some point I'd really like to build a CJ6 or stretched 5.

Kevin
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Old 03-26-2019, 04:51 PM   #128 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whitneyj View Post
Looks good.

What prep did you use before the Rust Bullet?
Just 150 grit sandpaper and acetone wipe down. Has been working for me. No special prep for rust bullet, but I get bad solvent pop if don’t wait plenty long enough between coats.

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Originally Posted by Ghetto Fab. View Post
Have you thought about using chain for your steps instead of tube? On my jeep buggy I had to install a step on the pass side so my wife could get in easier. I just bolted a length of chain in. It hangs down like a step all the time, but will deflect out of the way when hitting an obstacle. Cheap to replace too if it ever gets worn out or breaks. I think the only real downside is the fact that it swings when you put your weight on it, but your tube steps seem like they would swing also.

Just a thought.

At some point I'd really like to build a CJ6 or stretched 5.

Kevin
Chain would work fine in most situations. The steps have mechanical stops welded in place to ensure they don’t swing to far underneath. When I have doors on I just leave the steps down and drive around. It’s only a problem when I’m off-roading and want doors on and steps up. I’m gonna bend up a grabber tool I can reach out the window and pull the steps up and flip them down. Simple and effective.
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Old 04-14-2019, 06:08 PM   #129 (permalink)
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So I had a failure of the ring and pinion in the rear axle. It was due to my own dumb ass activities. I swapped pinion yokes to one that accepted a 1350 u-joint and failed to check pinion bearing preload, or at least grab the fooking thing and pull it fore/aft. Had 1/16" slop in the pinion bearings, because the yoke was that much shorter and the pinion nut shanked out, making me think all was well. If I'd have grabbed the yoke and jerked it back and forth I'd have saved myself about 2K bucks (swapped out detroit for zip locker + plus gears/rebuild kit).

So a lesson to you young guys, grab the yoke and jerk it. It will save you thousands. Smoked the gears in about 3 weeks. Well it didn't help that I was using the wrong damn lube in the axle the last 3 yrs. God damn Ford 9" just gotta be different you know. Fookin' hate this axle. I'm going to tons soon as I can afford, or convince my better half to let me, so I don't want to spend a damn minute or dollar on my existing axles if ya know what I mean.

That said, here's pics of the upgrades... A zip locker, strange s-series nodular case and nodular Daytona pinion support. Motive "blue box line" gears.







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Old 04-15-2019, 12:35 PM   #130 (permalink)
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Ok I took it out for its 1st real drive since the gear swap and no issues. Drove it 15 minutes at all different speeds up to 55. Stopped and took a break. My infered thermometer showed 115 deg F in the bottom of the pumpkin. Hottest part was pinion support at 138 deg F. After the break drove home in same fashion. Bottom of pumpkin was 125 deg F and pinion support was 150 deg F. That's about what I expected. All normal. As miles are put on, those temps will come down. Not bad for a 1st run.

And moving onto the next small task, I installed the torque converter cover. Quality piece I got from Summit Racing. It bolted right on with zero mods and that surprised me because I'm using a 2004 Escalade 6.0 mated to a 1997 GM 4L80E. In old threads of the past I read where people had to do a little grinding to make it work, but this cover just bolted right on and I can't believe the perfect fitment. So happy with that purchase. Came with nice bolts too.







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Old Today, 03:50 PM   #131 (permalink)
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Been logging break in miles on the new gears every chance the weather permits. Up to 82 miles total so far. Going on an 80 mile round trip tomorrow. Absolutely love driving it on the street in all driving conditions. Started installing the soft top. On hold till windshield frame door channels arrive. Was not aware I needed them and the kit didn't come with them. Fortunately available through Morris4x4center.

Was experiencing a bad high frequency vibration starting around 58 mph (all speeds really - just didn't know it was associated). Turns out the t-case rear output drive shaft flange High Angle Driveline sent me more than a year ago had a small manufacturing defect. Was causing a wobble of the drive line brake rotor of about 1/16th of an inch.

Jess warrantied it no problem, same day shipment, replacement arrived two days later. I threw it on this morning and went on a 24 mile drive, all speeds - up to 60 mph. Smooth as silk now. No issues at any speed, or load. The customer service you get from High Angle Drive line is superior and so is their parts (except my wobbly flange haha - usually don't happen).
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