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Old 03-26-2019, 01:02 PM   #126 (permalink)
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Looks good.

What prep did you use before the Rust Bullet?
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Old 03-26-2019, 02:18 PM   #127 (permalink)
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Have you thought about using chain for your steps instead of tube? On my jeep buggy I had to install a step on the pass side so my wife could get in easier. I just bolted a length of chain in. It hangs down like a step all the time, but will deflect out of the way when hitting an obstacle. Cheap to replace too if it ever gets worn out or breaks. I think the only real downside is the fact that it swings when you put your weight on it, but your tube steps seem like they would swing also.

Just a thought.

At some point I'd really like to build a CJ6 or stretched 5.

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Old 03-26-2019, 04:51 PM   #128 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whitneyj View Post
Looks good.

What prep did you use before the Rust Bullet?
Just 150 grit sandpaper and acetone wipe down. Has been working for me. No special prep for rust bullet, but I get bad solvent pop if don’t wait plenty long enough between coats.

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Originally Posted by Ghetto Fab. View Post
Have you thought about using chain for your steps instead of tube? On my jeep buggy I had to install a step on the pass side so my wife could get in easier. I just bolted a length of chain in. It hangs down like a step all the time, but will deflect out of the way when hitting an obstacle. Cheap to replace too if it ever gets worn out or breaks. I think the only real downside is the fact that it swings when you put your weight on it, but your tube steps seem like they would swing also.

Just a thought.

At some point I'd really like to build a CJ6 or stretched 5.

Kevin
Chain would work fine in most situations. The steps have mechanical stops welded in place to ensure they don’t swing to far underneath. When I have doors on I just leave the steps down and drive around. It’s only a problem when I’m off-roading and want doors on and steps up. I’m gonna bend up a grabber tool I can reach out the window and pull the steps up and flip them down. Simple and effective.
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Old 04-14-2019, 06:08 PM   #129 (permalink)
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So I had a failure of the ring and pinion in the rear axle. It was due to my own dumb ass activities. I swapped pinion yokes to one that accepted a 1350 u-joint and failed to check pinion bearing preload, or at least grab the fooking thing and pull it fore/aft. Had 1/16" slop in the pinion bearings, because the yoke was that much shorter and the pinion nut shanked out, making me think all was well. If I'd have grabbed the yoke and jerked it back and forth I'd have saved myself about 2K bucks (swapped out detroit for zip locker + plus gears/rebuild kit).

So a lesson to you young guys, grab the yoke and jerk it. It will save you thousands. Smoked the gears in about 3 weeks. Well it didn't help that I was using the wrong damn lube in the axle the last 3 yrs. God damn Ford 9" just gotta be different you know. Fookin' hate this axle. I'm going to tons soon as I can afford, or convince my better half to let me, so I don't want to spend a damn minute or dollar on my existing axles if ya know what I mean.

That said, here's pics of the upgrades... A zip locker, strange s-series nodular case and nodular Daytona pinion support. Motive "blue box line" gears.







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Old 04-15-2019, 12:35 PM   #130 (permalink)
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Ok I took it out for its 1st real drive since the gear swap and no issues. Drove it 15 minutes at all different speeds up to 55. Stopped and took a break. My infered thermometer showed 115 deg F in the bottom of the pumpkin. Hottest part was pinion support at 138 deg F. After the break drove home in same fashion. Bottom of pumpkin was 125 deg F and pinion support was 150 deg F. That's about what I expected. All normal. As miles are put on, those temps will come down. Not bad for a 1st run.

And moving onto the next small task, I installed the torque converter cover. Quality piece I got from Summit Racing. It bolted right on with zero mods and that surprised me because I'm using a 2004 Escalade 6.0 mated to a 1997 GM 4L80E. In old threads of the past I read where people had to do a little grinding to make it work, but this cover just bolted right on and I can't believe the perfect fitment. So happy with that purchase. Came with nice bolts too.







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Old 04-20-2019, 03:50 PM   #131 (permalink)
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Been logging break in miles on the new gears every chance the weather permits. Up to 82 miles total so far. Going on an 80 mile round trip tomorrow. Absolutely love driving it on the street in all driving conditions. Started installing the soft top. On hold till windshield frame door channels arrive. Was not aware I needed them and the kit didn't come with them. Fortunately available through Quadratec.

Was experiencing a bad high frequency vibration starting around 58 mph (all speeds really - just didn't know it was associated). Turns out the t-case rear output drive shaft flange High Angle Driveline sent me more than a year ago had a small manufacturing defect. Was causing a wobble of the drive line brake rotor of about 1/16th of an inch.

Jess warrantied it no problem, same day shipment, replacement arrived two days later. I threw it on this morning and went on a 24 mile drive, all speeds - up to 60 mph. Smooth as silk now. No issues at any speed, or load. The customer service you get from High Angle Drive line is superior and so is their parts (except my wobbly flange haha - usually don't happen).
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Old 04-26-2019, 07:43 AM   #132 (permalink)
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Story time: Been dealing with some gear shifting problems with the 4L80E. Long story shortened best I can, Holley's trans harness had two identical connectors with very similar color wires mislabeled and as a consequence I had the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) connector on the turbine inlet speed sensor and vice versa. I was sitting in the driveway idling in park and showed a 12 mph speed indication and no turbine inlet speed at any point. Rev the engine up mph would go up with it. I thought hmm, that's weird. Did continuity checks of the harness and verified those two connectors were mislabeled and swapped.

It's awesome that I've been driving around since Jan and didn't have any idea there was something wrong. Only other odd behavior had to do with at 25 mph, 3rd gear would lock and unlock the clutches and that had everything to do with the swapped connectors. Low engine rpm, computer thought low mph, unlock clutches and prepare for downshift to 2nd. I never thought anything of it, just accelerate a few mph above that speed up to 29-30 and all was well again. I mean, I knew something wasn't right, but I thought it had something to do with the tune.

So fast forward to now. I install the connectors where they belong and think OK, good to go. Not so fast. Yes, turbine inlet speed indication is perfect now. It matches what the engine rpm is doing, like it should. MPH indication does not work at all and trans won't shift out of 1st gear. I think, bad sensor. Nope. Missing 40 tooth reluctor ring inside the trans. When I bought the trans, I looked for that and though it had one installed because I could see teeth inside the hole where the VSS sensor went. The teeth I saw in there was for the parking pawl. There's no 40 tooth reluctor to provide the 40 pulse per revolution A/C sine wave to tell the computer how fast we are travelling. No shifting out of 1st without that signal.

Ok, so what do I do? Well 1st (and best, but most expensive and time consuming ) option is remove trans, tear trans down and install 40 tooth reluctor ring on rear drum. Nope. 2nd best option, which is what I'm going to attempt tomorrow morning, is use Dakota Digital's high frequency pulse generator (P/N: SEN-01-128) to re-create the signal the OEM 40 tooth ring would produce. Thank God that device exists, or I'd have to go to plan C which is convert mechanical speedo drive to electric VSS on output of t-case. Those parts are hard to find due to pass drop NP241C (not as plentiful). Tapping a signal on the back of the t-case is not great, because I have to adjust the tune for low range operations, but I think it's doable, because so easy to adjust in Holley software with handheld device. If not, there's also a potentially viable plan D and E, but I hope it doesn't come to either of those.
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Old 04-26-2019, 12:34 PM   #133 (permalink)
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I installed my new parts and went for a drive. After playing around with gear ratio and tire size I got the speedo to read exactly correct matched to my phones GPS speed reading. Trans is alot happier. No more weird behavior, just shifting good now. I'm very very happy and relieved. Nothing more to do to fix my problem.

If I ever experience a failure on my new high freq pulse generator I can always just hook it up back how it was with VSS on Turbine inlet speed sensor and that will get me home no problem seeing how I've driven more than 300 miles with it like that. I like to have a plan B and not drive home in 1st gear from wherever I am if that Dakota Digital pulse gen fails.
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Old 04-27-2019, 03:45 PM   #134 (permalink)
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Finished plumbing the selectable locker in the rear axle. No leaks yay!!! I chose not to use the electric solenoid for on/off switching. I used a pneumatic toggle switch which is purely mechanical and just tapped into my 20# Co2 bottle that I already use for airing up my tires. I love how simple it is, how simple it was to install and how quiet it is. Trail repairs of damaged air line couldn't be any easier, if it ever even gets damaged.
I routed it in a way it's very protected. Most of it runs through 3/8" fuel hose to act as armor for it. I'm just using the black nylon 5mm line that came with the zip locker. Replacing a section of that takes only minutes and only requires hose cutters to cut it. Everywhere it hooks up uses push lock fittings. So simple I can't even believe it. If you want pics just ask and I'll put them up, but below are pics of the pneumatic toggle switch and the 150 psi safety pop off valve to protect the locker in the rare case of regulator failure.



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Old 04-29-2019, 12:29 PM   #135 (permalink)
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Got a healthy start installing the softop. Need more 3/32" drill bits and I can finish the rest of the snaps. Barely fits in the garage if I let almost all the air out of the rear tires, but it does fit thank God.





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Old 05-02-2019, 08:17 AM   #136 (permalink)
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Soft top is on. I like it. Drove it some more. Now I'm up to 314 break in miles on the new gears. If I drive 50 miles per day I'll hit 500 on Sunday and then can drain, inspect, refill and then lean harder on the loud peddle. Prepping for another drive right now.

Pics.....







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Old 05-04-2019, 06:24 PM   #137 (permalink)
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Old 05-05-2019, 07:18 PM   #138 (permalink)
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So today I finished up the drop shank support bars. Their triangulated orientation firmly locates the 14" drop shank and transfers the forces of hard acceleration and hard braking from the trailer directly to my Jeeps frame and they do a great job at it. Very very happy with them.

Towed the travel trailer again today. 16 mile drive up to 60 mph on rough roads. I'm not gonna be so bold as to say my Jeep drives better towing the trailer but it certainly is no worse. The weight of the trailer transferred to the jeeps frame seems to have resulted in a slightly smoother ride. There was no sway at all, no issue accelerating at all (because nearly 400hp/400tq). No issues braking, the trailer brakes are working awesome. Ok I'm ready for some camping in a couple weeks. Been a long time in coming.







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Old 05-18-2019, 08:40 PM   #139 (permalink)
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Finally got around to installing a front drive shaft. Mostly done. Carrier bearing mount plate looks hack in the vid, but it's not. I'll purty it up a bit more later but for now IDGAS. Made a vid for ya'll. Way better than pics, but pics below the vid too. Had to go with 2 piece front shaft because it was going to be too long for a 2" OD shaft at 48". I was able to kick it out just ever so slightly away from the trans, so now all clearances are real good.











And I was having a problem with trans fluid getting to hot towing my travel trailer on the freeway at 65 mph. Got up to 214 deg F on a 20 mile flat run. Added a second remote trans cooler (stacked plate type) rated for 30K GVW. The other cooler I was already using is a 16 pass tube/fin type remote cooler. Not sure on the weight rating but it was fine for driving around normal without any towing. On the trail it probably would have overheated the trans by itself. Should be good to go now on trans fluid temp.

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Old 05-18-2019, 08:49 PM   #140 (permalink)
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Oh I also installed a Warn 8274 last weekend. I love it.



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Old 05-26-2019, 04:45 AM   #141 (permalink)
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Had to do a little last minute flex before hitting some trails this morning. Pics show it all below, but I'll expound upon my findings. I had some concerns about front ds to exhaust clearance at full stuff there on the passenger side front, but now I feel a little better. There's just over 1.5" clearance between front ds and exhaust pipe. I like it. Tire clearance lock to lock at full stuff has already been checked. No issues, the beauty of wide axles (but not too wide).

I still need to finalize my front bump stops. I'm almost ready to do that. They kinda work, in an abstract artsy kinda way, but not really at all. The oem rubber pads contact one of the u-bolt threads well enough to stop up-travel during slow crawl ops. Now that I can see what's really going on I can address it properly. I'll just take it easy for today's trail run. It's an easier trail, so I'm not that worried about it. I'm just happy I don't have to rework the exhaust to get full up travel on the front axle. Very happy.





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Old 08-07-2019, 07:15 AM   #142 (permalink)
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Ok, so what do I do? Well 1st (and best, but most expensive and time consuming ) option is remove trans, tear trans down and install 40 tooth reluctor ring on rear drum. Nope. 2nd best option, which is what I'm going to attempt tomorrow morning, is use Dakota Digital's high frequency pulse generator (P/N: SEN-01-128) to re-create the signal the OEM 40 tooth ring would produce. Thank God that device exists, or I'd have to go to plan C which is convert mechanical speedo drive to electric VSS on output of t-case. Those parts are hard to find due to pass drop NP241C (not as plentiful). Tapping a signal on the back of the t-case is not great, because I have to adjust the tune for low range operations, but I think it's doable, because so easy to adjust in Holley software with handheld device. If not, there's also a potentially viable plan D and E, but I hope it doesn't come to either of those.
I'm happy to find someone who has used the Dakota Digital output sensor, SEN-01-128. I'm planning on using my NP231 with cable spedo port behind the 4L65E that will be going in. Was the sensor plug and play or did you need to modify anything to make it work?
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Old 08-07-2019, 07:21 AM   #143 (permalink)
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Was plug and play and has been working perfect for over 1.5K miles so far.
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Old 08-07-2019, 07:30 AM   #144 (permalink)
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Only thing I'll say that sucks is low range ops and I knew it would till I figured out the tune. I haven't had a chance to play around with the tune in the Dominator ECU to allow proper gear shifts in low range. So far in low range I just putz around in 1st gear. It will shift to 2nd if I rap it out to like 4,500 rpm, but that is quite unpleasant. Another odd low range quirk, till I get the tune right, is the trans go into neutral when on a steep decent. You can imagine how that's not awesome.

Are you using GM ECU? If so, you won't have the benefit of being able to quickly change your trans tune like I can with the Holley Dominator ECU. If I didn't have that capability I'd have no choice but to get a signal off the trans output somehow.
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Old 08-07-2019, 10:19 AM   #145 (permalink)
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1978 CJ5 stretch to CJ6 build

Iíve got the factory wiring harness and computer. Iím hoping to use the Dakota digital sensor on the NP231 and a transmission switch in the vacuum port to supply the computer with the signal for low/high range (although I have yet to dive into this option).

In my head this setup would mimic the factory setup in the H2.

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Old 08-07-2019, 12:19 PM   #146 (permalink)
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Ah, gotcha. I forgot about the high/low switch. That takes care of that then. Yeah I like the signal generator so far. Working good.
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