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Old 03-14-2018, 02:46 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeatCJ View Post
To fix your issue with the spring, use the insert and do a tie rod flip.

I wouldn't mess with the cover. Offset tie rod ends would probably help, but then you might end up with interference on your drag link.

I thought Scout knuckles had a really long arm, that would keep you from having interference issues on the cover. Did you swap something in?

Also, it looks from you photos you have a problem with your shackle angle, in the photo it looks like it's flat with the frame? Your shackle reversal looks like it is set up for a shorter spring.
I am using cj knuckles, not scout knuckles. I was told the long scout steer arms would not work right with the short cj pitman. So, I swapped on cj knuckles to keep the geometry similar.

You are right about the offset TRE hitting the drag link TRE, possibly. I am avoiding the offsets for another reason...I don't want to re-taper the holes for the larger stud. That's also why I am avoiding flipcerts, if possible.

Shackle angle does have to be fixed (good catch)...just a mock-up.

So-just ordered tie rod and drag link from WFO. with stock cj TRE's all the way around. Will see if the Tie Rod rides above the spring, or will use a 1/2" spacer between the axle mount and the spring...not a big deal. But, the diff clearance issue remains...we'll see. I think "shaving" the diff cover might be a good fix...I will see what it looks like with the new Tie rod. Thanks.
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Old 01-07-2019, 04:14 PM   #27 (permalink)
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TR Flip

I'm back.

Got WFO HEAVY DUTY tie rod and drag link. TR almost rides on the springs, and hits diff. cover at full turn. So, a flip would prob'ly solve both issues. I want to use the goferit bushing, instead of a re-taper. Looks like a simple, effective fix.

I have read the Pirate threads, but still have the question: Is there enough meat on the D30 steer arm to drill out to 3/4" so I can insert the bushing?
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Old 01-08-2019, 04:33 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Here is a pic of the TR too close to the leaf spring.

Also, a pic of the pinion pointing down...will need a 2 or 4 degree shim.
(Wish I could live with this because the caster is probably right.)
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Old 01-10-2019, 03:59 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Steering Problems

OK-1979ish CJ7 with Poison Spyder full width axle/shackle reversal cradle, scout axle (D44 with D30 outers), M.O.R.E. steering box bracket and trailmaster 4" springs. Just installed WFO custom tierod and drag link w/ stock size TRE's. Still mocking everything up and ran into a severe steering problem. Don't know what to do. Can't move the steer box forward, so I have to find a way to position the axle back 2-3".
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Old 01-10-2019, 04:06 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Steering Problems

This picture is same, but with axle moved back approx. 2", just resting on spring. Looks like pretty good geometry? Do I need a longer spring? I think eye to eye is 41"; is there a similar spring I could use that is 46" or 47" eye to eye? This would move the center pin back 2 1/2" or so. The front spring is 2" wide and uses a 3" wide bushing in the leading eye, I think the trailing eye bushing is 2 1/2" wide. I could use a 2 1/2" wide spring? I am looking for a custom spring shop in my area but haven't found anything yet.
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Old 01-10-2019, 04:08 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Steering Problems

This pic is from the front, doesn't show the problem but I liked the pic. New cross-member and frame reinforcement sleeves are ready to weld when everything is positioned right. Steer box fits real good on new bracket.
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Old 01-11-2019, 06:03 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lewman2018 View Post
OK-1979ish CJ7 with Poison Spyder full width axle/shackle reversal cradle, scout axle (D44 with D30 outers), M.O.R.E. steering box bracket and trailmaster 4" springs. Just installed WFO custom tierod and drag link w/ stock size TRE's. Still mocking everything up and ran into a severe steering problem. Don't know what to do. Can't move the steer box forward, so I have to find a way to position the axle back 2-3".
can you mount the TRE on top? one from pitman arm to knuckle

you will have to redrill the knuckle and pitman arm and weld in new bungs

or switch to larger 1ton TRE and ream the holes
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Old 01-11-2019, 06:44 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Lewman2018 View Post
I'm back.

Got WFO HEAVY DUTY tie rod and drag link. TR almost rides on the springs, and hits diff. cover at full turn. So, a flip would prob'ly solve both issues. I want to use the goferit bushing, instead of a re-taper. Looks like a simple, effective fix.

I have read the Pirate threads, but still have the question: Is there enough meat on the D30 steer arm to drill out to 3/4" so I can insert the bushing?
I used Goferit on my D30. I ended up using the standard and not one ton tie rod ends.
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Old 01-11-2019, 07:49 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by fredycruger View Post
can you mount the TRE on top? one from pitman arm to knuckle

you will have to redrill the knuckle and pitman arm and weld in new bungs

or switch to larger 1ton TRE and ream the holes
Great idea, but I'm afraid Pitman arm would still hit Tie Rod when arm is pointing straight back and suspension is at full compression?
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Old 01-11-2019, 07:59 AM   #35 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jjeep71 View Post
I used Goferit on my D30. I ended up using the standard and not one ton tie rod ends.
Nice work, bushings look great...what size tires do you run? Asking because I am wondering how the D30 outers will hold up with 38's?
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Old 01-11-2019, 08:01 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Nice work...what size tires do you run? Asking because I am wondering how the D30 will hold up with 38's?
Running 33's and thinking about 35's but wouldn't go much bigger than that on a D30.
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Old 01-11-2019, 08:06 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Pic with the TR flip installed.
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Old 01-18-2019, 04:20 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Running 33's and thinking about 35's but wouldn't go much bigger than that on a D30.
I am running a D44 with D30 outers, low gearing and a low HP motor...do you think 38's are too big?
I am mostly wondering if the D30 steer arms are strong enough or will 38's snap them???
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Old 01-18-2019, 04:22 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Nice and tidy-so thats a D30 with ARB?
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Old 01-19-2019, 12:20 PM   #40 (permalink)
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This is how the TR and DL should be, not quite parallel but not hitting either.
Axle sitting back 3" from center pin.
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Old 01-19-2019, 12:25 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Here is the shackle reversal bracket. Next pic is the modified shackle reversal bracket with the spring mounted 3" rearward attached to new side plates. Also, 1" lower to tip pinion up out of the dirt. I know my caster is f* up, but will deal with this later.
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Old 01-19-2019, 12:30 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Had to trim bushing 1/4" on both sides because mount is narrower because of side plates. Side plates are 1/8" and will be replaced with 1/4 plates when I am sure this mock-up will work.
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Old 01-19-2019, 12:41 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Here is the bar I had to cut out of the poison spyder cradle to fit the new side plates.
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Old 01-19-2019, 12:44 PM   #44 (permalink)
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This is how it should look. Axle sits correctly on the center pin, 2 deg. shim to tip pinion up slightly. Now I have to set body on frame to see if axle is back too far...see how wheels fit wheel wells.
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Old 01-19-2019, 12:51 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Doesn't look too bad. Sits awfully high...don't like it? May shed the 4" Bushmaster springs for a 1" set? steer geometry would stay the same except for pitman arm with less drop.
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Old 01-19-2019, 12:52 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Steer geometry looks pretty good. But not as tidy as jjeep71!!!

Again, these are scout D44 axles with CJ D30 outers.
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Old 01-29-2019, 09:40 AM   #47 (permalink)
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Steer geometry looks pretty good. But not as tidy as jjeep71!!!

Again, these are scout D44 axles with CJ D30 outers.
If you take it off road at all and get it twisted up you will want to do the tie rod flip.
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Old 02-11-2019, 06:51 AM   #48 (permalink)
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You’d save yourself all kinds of problems and gain some steering options if you’d get some proper Dana 44 flat top knuckles and arms. M.O.R.E makes a steering box mount for CJ’S that moves the box forward a bit...
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Old 02-11-2019, 09:03 AM   #49 (permalink)
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This is how it should look. Axle sits correctly on the center pin, 2 deg. shim to tip pinion up slightly. Now I have to set body on frame to see if axle is back too far...see how wheels fit wheel wells.
Watch out now with the negative caster... Is this a offroad trail only Jeep? If so then you'll be fine with negative 2 degrees caster. On the street it's going to have some undesirable manners. That is an understatement.

You should be shooting for positive 4 to 6 degrees caster. 4 minimum. Scout axles have zero caster built into them so you are now a negative 2 degrees from tilting the pinion up. Only real fix for this is to rotate the inner-c's to get the pinion where you need it and caster as well.
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