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Old 12-07-2018, 08:27 PM   #176 (permalink)
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Christmas came early this year: my local Ace Hardware started stocking grade 8 Stover nuts! I celebrated by buying enough for the rear parking brake. I hope they continue to stock them. I went to fine thread on the 1/4" bolts so I could get more threads engaged.



The rear wiring is cleaned up and license plate light plug wired in. I did not use the 3rd brake light on the license plate mount because it looks dumb having that off center (and you can't tell it's there unless it's lit). I left the trailer harness tucked up in the back that I had wired in a few years ago if I ever decide to use it again.



For the brake line drops I tried going back to hard line where the line follows the UCA but it just ended up looking bad to me and seemed like it would be less durable if a rock or tree branch snagged it. Instead I used a longer 36in -3an flex line down the control arm into the distribution block. The axle breather is bundled with it. Once I figure out where my onboard air compressor is going I will run the line for the ARB locker.







I am using Russell 640503 to split the brake lines to each caliper:



10" flex lines are used to connect up to the calipers:



All of the flex lines are Fragola's coated stainless steel lines. The coating should help protect the lines and other parts from abrasion.

I'm not sure why JK rear calipers are listed online as 10mm x 1.25 banjo bolts, the rear calipers I have are 10mm x 1.00. Little things like that are continuing to add time to the project.

Last edited by toximus; 12-07-2018 at 08:33 PM.
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Old 12-08-2018, 07:46 AM   #177 (permalink)
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What dia are your uppers? Here are some billet mounts on mine.
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Old 12-08-2018, 08:33 AM   #178 (permalink)
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What dia are your uppers? Here are some billet mounts on mine.
I tried some billet mounts but the diameter was too small for the flex lines and there isn't enough material to widen the holes (must have been intended for hard line). My uppers are 1.5". I would love a billet mount for 2x -3an and 1x -6an lines. Do you know if anyone is custom machining them?

Last edited by toximus; 12-08-2018 at 08:33 AM.
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Old 12-08-2018, 08:48 AM   #179 (permalink)
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Mine were made for std 3/8" SS lines like the ones Crown makes. My Arms are 1.75"

I'm sure I can get you some made for yours from my guy if your interested.

Get me actual side in inches you want and quantity.

PM me..

Last edited by caryt; 12-08-2018 at 08:49 AM.
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Old 12-08-2018, 05:12 PM   #180 (permalink)
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I tried some billet mounts but the diameter was too small for the flex lines and there isn't enough material to widen the holes (must have been intended for hard line). My uppers are 1.5". I would love a billet mount for 2x -3an and 1x -6an lines. Do you know if anyone is custom machining them?
Where did you get them from? I used AJK Offroad https://ajkoffroad.com/shop/brake-line-clamp/ on mine and they seem like they were just right with my -3AN Earls lines:



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Old 12-08-2018, 06:27 PM   #181 (permalink)
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Where did you get them from? I used AJK Offroad https://ajkoffroad.com/shop/brake-line-clamp/ on mine and they seem like they were just right with my -3AN Earls lines:



From Kartek.
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Old 12-11-2018, 07:41 PM   #182 (permalink)
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I made an inner-fender liner out of 1/8" neoprene sheet and am holding it place with some push in clips.




Last edited by toximus; 12-12-2018 at 08:32 AM. Reason: Edit: neoprene sheet
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Old 12-11-2018, 08:10 PM   #183 (permalink)
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Steering parts have arrived!

From this point on I will be focusing almost entirely on the front now that the rear is 99.9% completed except for tuning the coilovers, and getting coils on. Those will wait until the Jeep is entirely assembled and be done alongside the front.

I touched briefly on the steering a few months ago in one of my first posts, to recap I will be making my own crossover steering copying the design perfected by Blaine: Steering Pictures . The 37s require hydro to turn so I will be adding in hydro assist. Full hydro can be dangerous if it fails at speed, hydro assist leaves the physical draglink in place between the steering gear and knuckles.

Since I'm probably going to be jumping around a little bit with my posts adding and adjusting stuff so everything plays nicely with each other in the front end, here is my full shopping list for steering parts so you guys have a general idea of the game plan (subject to change as I work on it):
  • SG400R - PSC ported steering gear
  • SR145-8-12 - PSC 7.25" reservoir with -8an return and -12an feed (unfortunately PSC is no longer making these shorty reservoirs and they are now 8" tall. Fortunately they had some old stock when I ordered.)
  • SP32432JP PSC CBR power steering pump with -6an out and -12 feed
  • SC2216 - PSC Cylinder with 1-3/4" bore, 10" stroke, and 3/4" rod.
  • HK2022 Cylinder hose kit with -6an 90* field serviceable fittings and 8 feet of hose.
  • Edelmann 80293 - Hose pressure side
  • Black Magic Brake's -8an to steering box return side custom made fitting (email BMB directly, they also have a good single cooler mounting bracket to consider)
  • SWEPCO 715 Power Steering Fluid 4qt
  • REXFR12 - 3/4" x 3/4" rod end
  • REXMR10-12 - 3/4" x 5/8" rod end
  • MB01 - Mounting tabs
  • FSNJ-3/4-16RH - Jam nuts
  • MBC100 - Cooler bracket
  • DER-13613 - Cooler with 1/2" NPT inlet and outlet (I'm using a second one for my transmission)
  • A bunch of socketless AN fittings and hose from Aeroquip.
  • Tube adapters from PolyPerformance
  • FK rod ends
  • ES2027L & ES2027R TREs from PartsMike

I ordered my hydro parts from PSC over the phone and asked for them to email me an invoice so I could double check my order. Instead they shipped them and forgot several parts. I let them know once I realized their mistake and they want to charge $24 shipping for $19 of parts that could fit in a flat rate envelope. Thanks, but I'll source them someplace else. Aside from that, they were very helpful getting me the right parts.

I am also still waiting on front bump stops from Fox. They are on factory back order until mid-January. I can't find them in stock reasonably priced anywhere else.

The front will be using the same 2.5" x 14" Fox coilovers that are in the rear. We'll be aiming for 7" of uptravel up front too.

My work is cut out for me!
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Old 12-11-2018, 08:33 PM   #184 (permalink)
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Before removing the steering gear, I found the center of my steering wheel and used the seat belt to secure it in place so that the clock spring won't get damaged.



The old steering pump and gear are out and the new is in. I was previously running a steering box brace, I ditched it since hydro-assist will take the strain off of the gear mount.



The PSC SG400R steering gear is longer than stock. I needed to shorten the lower steering shaft. There is a plastic pin half way down the shaft that is designed to fail in the event of a collision, pounding the shaft on the ground will break that pin and collapse the shaft. There is still room remaining for it to collapse if there is a collision. While it was out I greased the bearings in the support.



While the steering pump was out I removed the stock quick disconnect from the gas line and switched over to AN:



The CBR power steering pump has 2 through holes for the mounting bolts and 1 threaded hole. In that threaded mounting hole, a flanged class 8.8 M8x1.25 35mm length bolt worked perfect for me with the thicker supercharger bracket (I actually could only find a class 10.9, but 8.8 would have matched OEM), with the stock brackets a shorter 22mm bolt would have worked. I used blue loctite on the threads and torqued to 16ft-lbs (20ftlbs dry).



The PSC power steering pump has an ever so slightly smaller diameter pulley which required me to go back down a size on the serpentine belt and was able to use the one included in the BoostedTech kit.

To remove the pitman arm off the stock gear I had to use a little heat:

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Old 12-11-2018, 09:20 PM   #185 (permalink)
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I rolled the front axle under the Jeep and hooked up the LCAs.

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Old 12-12-2018, 06:42 AM   #186 (permalink)
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Lot of work going on here. Thanks for sharing.
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Old 12-12-2018, 06:50 AM   #187 (permalink)
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I know you are kind of set on doing a hydro assist with a custom cross-over steering system, however, you might want to read over this thread in General Tech.
4500 Steering that won the national points championshop

He details out a steering system utilizing both a double ended ram as the tie rod/hydro assist AND a steering box. this would give you the power of a hydraulic steering system without the drawbacks of using a single ended ram, with the piece of mind of a mechanical linkage.

Seems like a pretty trick system.

Keep up the good work.
Joel.
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Old 12-12-2018, 08:27 AM   #188 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I know you are kind of set on doing a hydro assist with a custom cross-over steering system, however, you might want to read over this thread in General Tech.
4500 Steering that won the national points championshop

He details out a steering system utilizing both a double ended ram as the tie rod/hydro assist AND a steering box. this would give you the power of a hydraulic steering system without the drawbacks of using a single ended ram, with the piece of mind of a mechanical linkage.

Seems like a pretty trick system.

Keep up the good work.
Joel.
This is what I'll end up using as I also want to be able to safely drive this mine on the road.
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Old 12-12-2018, 08:43 AM   #189 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I know you are kind of set on doing a hydro assist with a custom cross-over steering system, however, you might want to read over this thread in General Tech.
4500 Steering that won the national points championshop

He details out a steering system utilizing both a double ended ram as the tie rod/hydro assist AND a steering box. this would give you the power of a hydraulic steering system without the drawbacks of using a single ended ram, with the piece of mind of a mechanical linkage.

Seems like a pretty trick system.

Keep up the good work.
Joel.
Interesting. Does it still have a strong return to center? I'll have to read that thread.

At this point I am pretty set on going forward with the current steering plan as I have the vision and parts set. Like I said, I'll have to read through that thread, but on the surface it appears that the drag link and trackbar would stay the same the only difference being the ram placement and tierod?
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Old 12-12-2018, 09:00 AM   #190 (permalink)
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Interesting. Does it still have a strong return to center? I'll have to read that thread.
I believe it does have a "return to center" as that is mostly driven by the caster and the steering box. Since it doesn't replace the box the return to center should be just as good as if the ram wasn't there.

IIRC, it seems to be a pain to get the "sweet servo" (the unit that takes the place of the orbital) in the correct torque setting for your build.

It's just another option and YMMV. oh and @jr4x is currently active on the forum to ask any questions about this system.
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Old 12-14-2018, 11:04 PM   #191 (permalink)
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Yesterday I worked on the garage some. I hung the battery chargers on the wall, replaced a busted air hose, disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled a new vise, and swept the floors.



Today I dug in on the front axle.

The general game plan for the front axle is:

1) Set control arms and determine axle placement.
2) Set drag link to determine axle travel.
3) Set track bar.
4) Keep adjusting each of these until everything plays well and does what it's supposed to do.
5) Locate coilovers and bumpstops.
5) Final adjustment.

It sounds like a short list but each of those has it's own laundry list of to-dos. Buckle up and hang on as there is going to be a lot of build philosophy and practical knowledge, and I can already tell that it's going to be bumpy.

Starting with item #1, the control arms:

I centered the front axle and set it to ride height (technically the Jeep is set 0.5" higher than ride height to account for the tires not having a load on them).


(Yes, I know there is no breather on my front axle.)

In the front there isn't going to be enough room for the truss to fit between the oil pan and frame so I made a mock up top plate out of a 1/4" steel scrap I had. After I have the UCA in it's final position I'll be recutting this plate to the correct size so for now it's not fancy. I used the drill press to copy the holes from the truss to the plate. The new cross slide vice worked like a dream for this work.



I decided to try for a 2" stretch in the front. This puts the wheelbase at right around 105-107" based on my rough measurements. Not for performance but because it will give me more room to work with fitting parts in where I need them. It will also complicate fitting other parts, so this is going to be a bit of an adventure.

With the pinion angle set, I am placing the UCA roughly center of the diff. I'm expecting to move it later so just a few tack welds are all that's needed for now.



I think that concludes #1. At least until I get to #4, but maybe sooner... it all depends on how things play with each other!

Part of the big picture steering philosophy is that everything stops at the same point. This means that the steering gear box, ram, and knuckle steering stops all need to share the same stopping point. This seems to be often overlooked in builds but is very important so that higher than stock forces applied from the hydro assist don't end up ripping the steering gear off the frame. Since I'll be using all straight steering linkages there will be no "spring" forgiveness to them either. Blaine has been a huge help in streamlining my process of turning philosophy into actuality, so if I sound smart here it's because I learned it from him.

To actually achieve that philosophy a piece of it is that the pitman arm must be clockable. If say the driver's side steering stop touches and the passenger's side is off, the pitman arm can be clocked a spline or two to correct that. The OEM pitman arm has master splines that need to be removed so that it can be clocked a spline at a time.

Here are the masters marked in white:



(Btw - After the first white marker died early on in this build I got a new one for you guys! Hopefully that will make notes in pictures easier to read again.)

I used a small burr to get in gently and remove the masters:

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Old 12-15-2018, 06:37 AM   #192 (permalink)
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Or you could just adjust your draglink...
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Old 12-15-2018, 07:29 AM   #193 (permalink)
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Or you could just adjust your draglink...
What if you don't have an issue with the gear and wheels being straight?
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Old 12-16-2018, 08:55 AM   #194 (permalink)
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This morning I revisited a mod I did in 2017.

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To finish off the transfer case I installed a sight glass made from these parts (inspiration came from NuckelHead):
I have some concerns about it snagging branches on the trail so I'll be carrying the factory plugs and enough fluid to fill it back up until I'm sure it'll be fine.

At the time I wrapped the straight thread plugs with teflon tape. They've been slowly sweating fluid ever since:



I cleaned the area and am trying to solve the leak with crush washers. If this doesn't solve it, the stock plugs are going back in.


I can't remember if I showed this before, but here is how I've been sitting pinion angles: Place the yoke on the TC and axle at the same angle, thread string between the 2 yoke, and use a square to check the angle.



I tried installing the replacement axle skid that I was sent when my axle didn't arrive with one. I can't make it fit. I think it's actually a skid for the RJ60 and the RJ60VXR may share the skid with the 70. It has become clear during this build that Currie has a disconnect between their shop floor and customer service when it comes to the RockJock 60 VXR. The knowledge and support from them has been filled with lots of misinformation. I'll give them a call on Monday to try and get this skid issue resolved.

Last edited by toximus; 12-16-2018 at 08:55 AM.
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Old 12-16-2018, 10:21 AM   #195 (permalink)
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I love all the pics and your comments, but I don't get this statement.

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What if you don't have an issue with the gear and wheels being straight?
The only reason I can think to make the arm clockable is if the factory didn't put the master splines in the right place. I've never seen that. Are you saying, for example, its four turns "lock to lock" and the arm is not straight at two turns?
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Last edited by waterhorse; 12-16-2018 at 10:22 AM.
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Old 12-16-2018, 10:28 AM   #196 (permalink)
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I flattened my pitman arm for mockup. The OEM arm measures about 5.5" center of hole to center of hole (CTC), for the mockup I am starting with this spacing and will change if needed.









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Old 12-16-2018, 10:30 AM   #197 (permalink)
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I love all the pics and your comments, but I don't get this statement.



The only reason I can think to make the arm clockable is if the factory didn't put the master splines in the right place. I've never seen that. Are you saying, for example, its four turns "lock to lock" and the arm is not straight at two turns?
We're going to find out as it comes together!
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Old 12-16-2018, 08:35 PM   #198 (permalink)
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This afternoon I installed the driver's side knuckle that I had previously sent to Black Magic Brakes to be fitted for front brakes.

Before installing I shot inside the axle tubes with a little paint.



I'm not sure I'll be taking the axles back out again before finishing so I installed everything properly. The RCV boots are always such a pain to get on and off when it's cold so I really hope I don't need to take the knuckles off again. I should have set the garage temp to 80F...then they pop right on! SuperDutyPSD is a great resource for the 1999 - 2004 Ford F250-F450 style Dana 60 knuckles that Currie uses. I followed their balljoint article which covered all of the torque specs that I needed. Ford Super Duty Ball Joint Replacement Procedure - Superdutypsd.com

To set the knuckle side axle seal I used an OTC 6695 Axle Shaft Seal Installer that I had modified a few months ago to account for the larger diameter 35 spline shafts. Having this tool makes pressing the seals a 5 minute task.



I then installed the Yukon locking hubs. I previously was concerned about the axle shaft moving too far into the diff housing so I had RCV groove the stubs. However this is now positioning the "slugs" too far in for the manual hub to unlock. I left the stub snap rings off for now.

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Old 12-17-2018, 02:53 PM   #199 (permalink)
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I tried installing the replacement axle skid that I was sent when my axle didn't arrive with one. I can't make it fit. I think it's actually a skid for the RJ60 and the RJ60VXR may share the skid with the 70. It has become clear during this build that Currie has a disconnect between their shop floor and customer service when it comes to the RockJock 60 VXR. The knowledge and support from them has been filled with lots of misinformation. I'll give them a call on Monday to try and get this skid issue resolved.
I called Currie. They make 3 axle skids: 60 (60-9085), 60VXR (60-9085B), and 70 (70-9085). They were unable to make the exchange for me directly so I contacted Ricky (4LowParts, where I bought) and he was able to contact Currie and make things right. This is where purchasing through a seller who's willing to take the time to help is worth it.
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Old 12-17-2018, 10:24 PM   #200 (permalink)
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The transfer case started dripping again by this afternoon. I don't think I was able to crush the crush washer enough to seal it and I don't want to torque the plug any more. At this point I don't see any real benefit in the sight beyond the fun factor and it really isn't fun anymore. As soon as I can find my OEM plugs I'll be switching back.

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