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Old 09-03-2018, 11:06 PM   #1 (permalink)
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78 Wagoner 4d. Starting issues

Greetings.
I have a 78 with 360. I have replaced both power cables. New remanufactured starter, New starter solenoid,
Sometimes it will not crank over. Leave it for a couple of days starts up no issues.
When you start the Jeep at s and I terminal what should the voltage be?
I terminal starts out at around 6.9 volt and slowly builds up to 12.2 v. S terminal is a monetary 9.4v.
What would happen if the solenoid doesn't have 12v`s
And in theory to by pass the ignition switch I have to have 12v to terminal s which goes to coil and a monetary 12v to terminal S.


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Old 09-05-2018, 07:01 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Anyone?

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Old 09-08-2018, 02:43 PM   #3 (permalink)
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so, s gets voltage only when key in start position only and activates the solenoid. of course the big cables send power from the battery to the starter itself. "i" sends power from the starter solenoid directly into the ignition system to give a hotter spark during cranking (or something like that). the body of the solenoid MUST be properly grounded. some solenoids have a "g" terminal for this, some just ground through the base.

for diagnosis;
if the solenoid doesn't clunk wen you turn the key, check the "s" wire for voltage while turning the key. if voltage is present and solenoid is grounded properly- replace solenoid. if no voltage troubleshoot start wire circuiting.
if clunks and 12 volts is present on the large cable at the starter, take the starter back to where you got it. reman starters are notorious for being bad off the shelf.
you can bypass the key portion of the circuit by jumping from the battery cable to the s terminal with a wire, screwdriver, needle nosed pliers or a momentary switch designed for the purpose.
if the solenoid is functioning properly, jumping battery to "s" will crank and give power to the ignition through the "i" terminal. it should start and run. will die if key isn't on. could jump power to "i" wire also, but will bypass the ballast resistor which will be hard on ignition components long term.
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Old 09-10-2018, 12:19 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks for the information.
I don't think I had a good ground at solenoid. I sanded where the bracket bolts to chassis. She has been starting ever since. Fingers crossed knock on wood.
Quote:
Originally Posted by hill-billy View Post
so, s gets voltage only when key in start position only and activates the solenoid. of course the big cables send power from the battery to the starter itself. "i" sends power from the starter solenoid directly into the ignition system to give a hotter spark during cranking (or something like that). the body of the solenoid MUST be properly grounded. some solenoids have a "g" terminal for this, some just ground through the base.

for diagnosis;
if the solenoid doesn't clunk wen you turn the key, check the "s" wire for voltage while turning the key. if voltage is present and solenoid is grounded properly- replace solenoid. if no voltage troubleshoot start wire circuiting.
if clunks and 12 volts is present on the large cable at the starter, take the starter back to where you got it. reman starters are notorious for being bad off the shelf.
you can bypass the key portion of the circuit by jumping from the battery cable to the s terminal with a wire, screwdriver, needle nosed pliers or a momentary switch designed for the purpose.
if the solenoid is functioning properly, jumping battery to "s" will crank and give power to the ignition through the "i" terminal. it should start and run. will die if key isn't on. could jump power to "i" wire also, but will bypass the ballast resistor which will be hard on ignition components long term.
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