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Old 10-28-2019, 10:03 AM   #51 (permalink)
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Old 10-28-2019, 04:42 PM   #52 (permalink)
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What about some Waggy leaf springs? Get some new spring hangers and move them back a bit. Use the Ruffstuff +2 perches as well as that gives you some options for center pin placement.
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Old 10-28-2019, 04:44 PM   #53 (permalink)
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Links and full court press FTW!
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Old 10-29-2019, 07:56 AM   #54 (permalink)
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Ruffstuff made my decision easy. They're having a sitewide 17% off sale. Pulled the trigger on their 14 bolt 4 link kit. I thought about trailing arms for a hot second, but getting everything to fit up right and not back-half the frame was going to be tough. I still have delusions of getting done before KOH. 95 days

Going to be eating peanut butter and jelly sandwiches at lunch for the foreseeable future.

Talked to a few homies since I'm new at suspension geometry. Plan is to follow rule of 80%: Link separation at frame setup for 80% of link separation at axle, upper links to be 80% length of lowers. Did some measuring and it looks like everything will fit.


Now comes the hunt for coilovers. Anyone want to buy some old bypasses?
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Old 10-30-2019, 06:54 AM   #55 (permalink)
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Ruffstuff made my decision easy. They're having a sitewide 17% off sale. Pulled the trigger on their 14 bolt 4 link kit. I thought about trailing arms for a hot second, but getting everything to fit up right and not back-half the frame was going to be tough. I still have delusions of getting done before KOH. 95 days

Going to be eating peanut butter and jelly sandwiches at lunch for the foreseeable future.

Talked to a few homies since I'm new at suspension geometry. Plan is to follow rule of 80%: Link separation at frame setup for 80% of link separation at axle, upper links to be 80% length of lowers. Did some measuring and it looks like everything will fit.


Now comes the hunt for coilovers. Anyone want to buy some old bypasses?
How much...?
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Old 10-30-2019, 07:54 AM   #56 (permalink)
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How much...?
I've got a set of 10" 2.5 kings and 14" 2.5 Fox bypasses.

Say $400 for the kings and $600 for the Fox? They're not pretty by any stretch, but they work.



I noticed you're in Jamul, I'll be down in Rancho San Diego visiting my parents for Christmas and can bring the shocks if you can wait that long.
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Old 10-30-2019, 08:06 AM   #57 (permalink)
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In other news, I decided to start cleaning up my tub and get to work on the cage while I wait for links. The tub looked like swiss cheese around where the old cage bolted in. You can kind of see some of the holes I had to fill in in the pic below(I freaking hate welding such think metal, but I think I'm getting better) What does everyone's frame to cage tie-ins look like?

Here's what I'm thinking:
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Old 10-30-2019, 08:39 AM   #58 (permalink)
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Don't you want the frame side to be fixed position? That doesn't seem like it will prevent the cage from moving downwards.
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Old 10-30-2019, 08:58 AM   #59 (permalink)
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Don't you want the frame side to be fixed position? That doesn't seem like it will prevent the cage from moving downwards.
That's my concern too. I've seen a lot of people set it up this way, but it seems... not strong.
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Old 10-30-2019, 09:00 AM   #60 (permalink)
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I am just solid mounting the tie ins. At this point is a bushing going to do much? At least that’s my thought.
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Old 10-30-2019, 09:35 AM   #61 (permalink)
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If you have rubber in your body mounts, you'll want the bushings in your cage tie-ins. Without them you're just moving what is actually acting as the body mount.
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Old 10-30-2019, 11:47 AM   #62 (permalink)
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That's my concern too. I've seen a lot of people set it up this way, but it seems... not strong.
Either the other way around, or you'd need two bolts on the frame side.
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Old 10-30-2019, 11:49 AM   #63 (permalink)
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I've got a set of 10" 2.5 kings and 14" 2.5 Fox bypasses.

Say $400 for the kings and $600 for the Fox? They're not pretty by any stretch, but they work.



I noticed you're in Jamul, I'll be down in Rancho San Diego visiting my parents for Christmas and can bring the shocks if you can wait that long.
Waiting isn't a problem. No functional damage (shaft pitting, leaking seals, bullet holes)?
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Old 10-30-2019, 11:55 AM   #64 (permalink)
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Waiting isn't a problem. No functional damage (shaft pitting, leaking seals, bullet holes)?
No issues that I have found. I haven't run the Fox bypasses yet- got them from a guy nearby who told me they were good to go. I have cycled them without an issue and didn't encounter any leaking.

The kings I ran for a year. They are in good working order.
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Old 10-30-2019, 12:01 PM   #65 (permalink)
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Yup.

I had the Motobilt 4 link kit on my YJ. Worked extremely well and saved quite a bit of time.
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Old 10-30-2019, 12:03 PM   #66 (permalink)
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Yup.

I had the Motobilt 4 link kit on my YJ. Worked extremely well and saved quite a bit of time.
That thing looks fun as hell.

Do you remember how long your lower links were?

I'm trying to figure out what's a good length that will ride nice and not hang up on everything. I was thinking 48", but after measuring it out, that length seems really long.
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Old 10-30-2019, 12:59 PM   #67 (permalink)
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That thing looks fun as hell.

Do you remember how long your lower links were?

I'm trying to figure out what's a good length that will ride nice and not hang up on everything. I was thinking 48", but after measuring it out, that length seems really long.
I honestly don't remember.

@PapaSmurf789 has the chassis now, maybe he can get a measurement.

Halfassed build thread here: https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep...4-chromos.html
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Old 10-30-2019, 01:07 PM   #68 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Harry Johnson View Post
That thing looks fun as hell.



Do you remember how long your lower links were?



I'm trying to figure out what's a good length that will ride nice and not hang up on everything. I was thinking 48", but after measuring it out, that length seems really long.


My links are 43.25” in the rear and 33.5” in the front with the Motobilt kit. Putting me at 116.5” WB.

Last edited by YJUnlimited; 10-30-2019 at 01:08 PM.
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Old 10-30-2019, 01:28 PM   #69 (permalink)
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My links are 43.25” in the rear and 33.5” in the front with the Motobilt kit. Putting me at 116.5” WB.
Good info! I measured under the jeep last night and it seemed like ~34" lower links were going to be the way to go to hit 108" WB, but I was worried I was going to make my links too short. Looking at your numbers, it's probably just about right.
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Old 10-30-2019, 01:30 PM   #70 (permalink)
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PVC links are a great cheap way to mock up and get the numbers down pat.
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Old 10-30-2019, 06:24 PM   #71 (permalink)
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My links are 43.25” in the rear and 33.5” in the front with the Motobilt kit. Putting me at 116.5” WB.
I was at 111" WB, so not much shorter than this.
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Old 11-04-2019, 09:37 AM   #72 (permalink)
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Ruffstuff link kit showed up Friday! Was doing dad stuff all weekend, so didn't get to get started on it. The local metal shop is only open the exact same amount of time I'm at work 7:30 - 4:30, so I need to figure out when I can take some time off and pick up tubing for links and cage.

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Old 11-04-2019, 07:55 PM   #73 (permalink)
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Check out Wide Open Designs for AL links.
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Old 11-05-2019, 09:32 AM   #74 (permalink)
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Check out Wide Open Designs for AL links.
I don't think I've got aluminum link money. I'll have to see what kind of deal I can get on coilovers
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Old 11-05-2019, 10:13 AM   #75 (permalink)
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I don't think I've got aluminum link money. I'll have to see what kind of deal I can get on coilovers
Your links will probably be pretty long. You will definitely need heavy wall tube or AL. In the long run the AL links aren't that much more. You can run AL lowers and steel uppers.
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