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Old 08-31-2019, 11:02 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Dana 44 in my YJ

Rig was running great, D30 , 8.8, 4.10s, locked with a Roc Trac 4:1 to name a few details but had to fix what wasn't broken. Found a D44 advertised as a 79 from an F250 but according to the BOM it was a 77.5. But basically same axle, 1/2" tube, stout. Original build thread over HERE but thought I'd transfer some info to pirate
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Old 08-31-2019, 11:07 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Running Chevy fat tops for a 5x5.5 bolt pattern so as to just add spacers for the 8.8. Soaked the knuckles in Evap rust for about 18 hours with a little elbow grease and they came out nice.
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Old 08-31-2019, 11:11 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Basically the same. I believe spring widths are close to yj. Maybe someone will confirm.

Beware that f250 and f150 knuckles are different. Unlike chevy which are the same. So you’ll need knuckles out if you run ford stuff. Chevy knuckles small bearing spindles 78-95 ford hubs and rotors and Chevy backing plates and calipers if you go Chevy stuff and want 5x5.5”.
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Old 08-31-2019, 11:13 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Basically the same. I believe spring widths are close to yj. Maybe someone will confirm.

Beware that f250 and f150 knuckles are different. Unlike chevy which are the same. So you’ll need knuckles out if you run ford stuff. Chevy knuckles small bearing spindles 78-95 ford hubs and rotors and Chevy backing plates and calipers if you go Chevy stuff and want 5x5.5”.
Yeah I'm half way there
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Old 08-31-2019, 11:17 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Plan: SOA waggys in the front with the F250 D44, 4.88s Grizzlys front and rear, 37's, keep the back SUA, RE 4.5" springs in the back with 6" shackles may even it out. With the Super 88 in the back I'm 61.62” add 1.25" spacers and I'm at 64.12". With the Chevy outers the F250 is suppose to be 65", ~ .5 inch on each side isn't terrible. My math may be off though, I'll check
https://www.skysoffroaddesign.com/pr.../dana-44mk-001
These guys are great. Got the high steer arm and knuckle machined and sent back to me.( pirate code pirate10off). Just gotta mail them the knuckle.
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Old 08-31-2019, 11:19 PM   #6 (permalink)
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pulled the trigger. (a small bonus from work helped too) Said I wasn't but I've been reading how it's hit and miss with the chromos made in India and Korea, how sometimes people are breaking ears before u-joints because the D44 shaft ain't much different than the 30. I plan on doing the hammers more often and didn't want to take a chance. Plus American made. Skinny Pedal Racing got a great deal.
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Old 08-31-2019, 11:22 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Refurbished the waggys, notched the pumkin, gusseted the C's
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Old 08-31-2019, 11:27 PM   #8 (permalink)
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So I hammered in the spindle studs, installed the knuckles. Torque the lower ball joint to 80 ft-lb, the upper collar to snug, and the upper ball joint nut to 100 ft-lb, in that order.
The RCV instructions state you need to grind/cut down the bottom ball joint bolt flush with the nut. Getting a 4.5" wheel in there was hard (Chevy knuckle, tighter spot?) plus I was bouncing off the knuckle and C. Luckily I keep old cutting wheels for tight spots like this. Not a good scenario using a worn wheel without a guard but oh well. Also need to remove the steering stop to get the axle boot in and access to the ball joint nut. in.
Video for reference. https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...&v=rp4RKNluDTk
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Old 08-31-2019, 11:29 PM   #9 (permalink)
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So putting in the RCVs have kicked my *** a little. I had to grind down the knuckle and C a bit to get the knuckle to open up enough to get the joint in there. The guys at RCV told me thats the route some people take, the second is removing the knuckle and put it together while sliding the knuckle back into place which is the method I'm gonna try on the pass side. I didn't like the idea of taking meat off the axle even though it's not much and I can probably weld it in anyway. these are two videos on the subject for reference.
Knuckle removal
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Old 08-31-2019, 11:32 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Got the pass side in using the knuckle removal method. A little tricky but much easier and this is the method I would recommend and use again. Keep in mind this is with the Chevy knuckles which make it more difficult. Also I popped on the oil slinger first which was a mistake, had to remove it to maneuver the joint.
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Old 08-31-2019, 11:34 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Got the spindle and caliper bracket on, part# on bracket. First time using one of these $7 bearing packers and it's awesome. Very liberal with the grease in the hub. (Note: I used the oil slinger and dust seals just like on the stock stub)
Backing plate and spindle to steering knuckle retaining bolts 30-40 ft lbs
Spindle nut to wheel hub -inner 50 then back off 90 degrees but I like it a little loose, outer 80-100. Check fit, spin rotor after.
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Old 08-31-2019, 11:36 PM   #12 (permalink)
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So originally I got the Yukon hub kit (YHC70007 with spacers) at a killer price (Amazon return) but when I decided to go with the RCVs I needed the 30 spline hub gear that I got from Yukon, so I ended up paying full price eventually, oh well. This is an excellent video on installation of the kit.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KNkH...w#action=share
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Old 08-31-2019, 11:44 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Finished the hubs, I tested them and they lock and unlock great. and threw on the 1/2 ton brakes, still gotta work on the front brake lines and bleed the system. Also need to put together the 1 ton steering and mount the steering box bracket. But I decided to threw on the 37s to see how the springs are sitting. So I got used stock waggys up front, SOA with stock height shackles (caster about 6ish), new SUA RE1455 4.5" rears with 6 " shackles. Looks a tad taller in the front but not by much. My concern is the shackle angles, The front I can live with but the rears are a little steep. the back should settle a little but I know RE's are pretty good keeping their shape. Considering welding a shackle hanger on the rear frame to adjust hanger angle and use a shorter shackle. Suggestions are welcome.
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Old 08-31-2019, 11:46 PM   #14 (permalink)
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So come to find out putting Chevy knuckles on a ford D44 axle you almost always have a camber issue and sure enough.......wa la. Kinda hard to believe with all the homework I did I never found this. So the solution I decided to use was camber sleeves for the top ball joint. Another option is spindle shims but then I gotta take the hub totally apart. Luckily found 2 for the price of one on eBay cause they're not cheap.
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Old 08-31-2019, 11:47 PM   #15 (permalink)
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So I just got the camber sleeves in the mail, will report back after I have them installed.
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Old 08-31-2019, 11:56 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RANGERROD View Post
Basically the same. I believe spring widths are close to yj. Maybe someone will confirm.

Beware that f250 and f150 knuckles are different. Unlike chevy which are the same. So you’ll need knuckles out if you run ford stuff. Chevy knuckles small bearing spindles 78-95 ford hubs and rotors and Chevy backing plates and calipers if you go Chevy stuff and want 5x5.5”.
Yeah and the spring perches sit a little wider so I notched the perch holes a hair so the springs wouldn't bow out.
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Old 09-01-2019, 07:31 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Didn’t know about the camber issue good to know. Sorry for butting I’m on your build thread continue on.
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Old 09-02-2019, 11:37 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Got the bushings installed today, brought my numbers up to specs. Then had an issue on the pass side with the high steer arm binding on the C, had to grind it down a bit and then the knuckle moved freely afterward.
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Old 09-02-2019, 11:41 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Got some new Skyjacker extended lines, a little longer than the previous ones. Amazon returns, like $40 ($108 new).
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Old 09-03-2019, 05:17 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Looks good man!
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Old 09-03-2019, 05:24 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
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My concern is the shackle angles, The front I can live with but the rears are a little steep. the back should settle a little but I know RE's are pretty good keeping their shape. Considering welding a shackle hanger on the rear frame to adjust hanger angle and use a shorter shackle. Suggestions are welcome.
I would cut off the rear spring hangers, and move them back 1.5-2.5", or whatever it takes to improve the shackle angle.
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Old 09-03-2019, 07:16 AM   #22 (permalink)
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The rear shackle angle doesn't look that bad, the dog leg shackles make it look like it's leaning forwards, but bolt hole to bolt hole they look like the angle is slightly rearwards. (Which is what you want)

As the springs settle or you add more weight to the rear when you load the jeep for a trip, it should be even better.

You don't want the rear shackle angling forwards, there is a possibility that it would go over center, flip up and bend the spring end when the spring unloads or you back into something with the shackle.
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Old 09-11-2019, 06:28 PM   #23 (permalink)
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So I installed the new steering shaft and it went on perfect. The old one was frozen even after PB blaster too short/maxed out by what I could tell. Got the waggy pitman, I've read of some people staying with stock or a drop or needing the waggy, we'll see where I go. Need to weld the 1 ton steering together and bleed the brakes and I should almost be ready for a test drive
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Old 09-14-2019, 08:28 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Bled the brakes, 2 rounds with the self bottle method, pedal feels solid, test drive will prove it. The taper on the high angle tie rod ends are a little bigger than the regular ones so I had to ream the pitman and high steer arm a little. Tried removing the stock pitman but it's frozen on there, soaked it in some Kroil gonna let it sit over nite.
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Old 09-17-2019, 08:35 AM   #25 (permalink)
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2 1/2 days spraying Kroil, hammer and pitman arm puller finally got the arm off. Welded up the drag link, painted it, barely let the paint dry and installed it. connected the battery, cranked it up and cycled the steering to check for binding. Turn stops were reinstalled and that's where my steering maxed out at. Pumped the brakes a little, felt a little soft but good, did a few brakes checks and drove it out the driveway. A couple laps on the main street and everything felt good! Hit the brakes a little hard (not gonna slam them until they break in a little) and they grabbed really good. Steering wheel and steering was almost straight considered I did a half *** wheel alignment. Upon parking it I inspected the brake lines and found a little leak at the L/R banjo bolt. Gonna mess with that later. Still gotta do shocks and a few odds and ends.
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