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Old 03-17-2006, 03:06 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Join Date: May 2004
Member # 30759
Location: Peoples republic of Kalifornia
Posts: 124
Master Cylinder

I have a 45 Willys MB with stock wagoneer axles under it (disk front, drum rear brakes), with a chevy four speed. Does any one know what master cylinder i could use from a wrecking yard that would provide enough preasure to have adiquate(SP?) braking for the jeep with out a Brake booster?

I know of a guy that is using a master cylinder form a 61 chevy truck and it works good. It also has the master for the hydralic clutch. If anyone knows any other options let me know.

I am trying to avoid buying a Willwood, untill i have exhausted all options.

Also if anyone has any pictures of their brake set up i would appreachate it.

I have searched previously with soem results but not exactly what i was looking for.


67 cj5 231 sm420 d18 ect.. New project.
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Old 03-17-2006, 03:54 PM   #2 (permalink)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Member # 32187
Posts: 318
I'm in the same boat. Still researhing but from my research (search is broken most of the time lately) here is some info (hope it helps).

Any disc/drum master will work (w/1" bore). What you want is the lines to connect on the correct side (engine side or fender side of the master) and correct bolt up to firewall. Several guys report 77-78 CJ masters work great.

Need 2 pounds residual presure to the disc & 10 pounds to the drums ...combination valve (has residual to front & proportioning (60/40?) to rear) & a 10 pound residual valve to rear is my plan with the Jeep CJ master. is a good source of info, get their catalog free, great trouble shooting & design sections.

From another Form:
"Best bet for manual Disc/Drum is a 1972-1976 "A" Series GMC master cylinder of a manual drum/disc car (El camino, Nova, Firebird etc). It's a 1 inch bore set for manual disc brakes. The port sizes are 1/2 x 20 (disc) and 9/16 x 20 (drum), the lines go towards the wheel well. You'd remove your rod from your CJ and use it on this one, I am not sure if the rod would need to be modified as I am in the power brake field, not the manual brake field.

It's also best to forget about the pressure valves, or using a early disc m/c that came with them built in. As someone mentioned rebuilders LOVE to not put them in, even Wagner, Raybestos and others who sell new M/Cs don't put them in. Just get a later prop valve (76+) of any Disc/drum vehicle and use it. The later model valves do the same thing, the hold pressure to the rears while at the same time reducing the amount of fluid so your rears don't lock up first."

Hope this helped some, lets us know how it turns out.
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