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Old 03-28-2006, 09:08 PM   #1 (permalink)
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best belly clearance on TJ's

oh damn ... is this forum newbie enough?

what do i need to do to my spankin' new LJ rubicon unlimited to cleanup the drivetrain clearances ... and get rid of the stock shovel.

l've seen the bolt on shiaatt with medic, nth etc. etc. ... what have you guys come up with to get a flat tummy?
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Old 03-29-2006, 06:46 AM   #2 (permalink)
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n'th has the best tuck that i have seen on the tj over re and full traction

But I dont care for there lift seems like to many parts can go wrong.

A budy in are club has the n'th kit on his tj what a pain in the ass it was to put together

but the belly pan is bad ass
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Old 03-29-2006, 07:37 AM   #3 (permalink)
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thx for the TT recommendation on nth

has anyone tried fabbing their own? how high do you need to get the drivetrain to be able to mount something like a flat piece of aluminum? i'm guessing a 1" motor lift ain't going to do the trick. is there one component that could be accomodated in a flat sheet by making a simple square cutout, dropped 3/4" and TIG'd with a smaller plate and sides?

i was so dissapointed in the lower arms and "shovel". first week of ownership netted one bad high-center, and getting completely denied on a rock climb on fairly tame trail. the chassis just banged around everywhere. I received a dented oil pan and tweaked LCA's for my effort.

i noticed that the radiator appears to be extremely vulnerable as well what have I gotten myself into here!

cheers
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Old 03-29-2006, 08:40 AM   #4 (permalink)
 
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cant remember if you need to mod the exhaust or get a new t-case linkage bracket along with the 1" mml and 1" BB but aluminum is a little on the soft side for a skid plate expensive too

depending on your suspension set up you may need to reangle your rear drive shaft angle(pinion angle) when the t-case/tranny/motor is raised. The angles in the driveshaft may become too severe for the u-joints when the axle and t-case are spaced farther apart. To correct this problem most use upper and sometimes lower adjustable control arms to align the pinion angle upward correcting the problem.

Sorry I couldnt really give you a definite answer, I just like hearing myself type
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Old 03-29-2006, 08:15 PM   #5 (permalink)
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aluminum 33engineering belly up ... and what's nice: it's a freaking bolt on (except for changing the exhaust, pinion angle, body rework and so on)
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Old 03-30-2006, 06:54 AM   #6 (permalink)
 
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cool
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Old 03-30-2006, 10:01 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Currie also has a flat tummy...
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Old 03-30-2006, 08:13 PM   #8 (permalink)
 
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I am in the process of doing this on my 97. Here is how it has gone so far. Belly will be completely flat. Ive got the 2.5L 4cyl, but everything should basically be the same. I started with machining some 2" diam aluminum bar into 11 1.5" body lift pucks. They were placed between the stock rubber bushing and the body tub. Of course, 1.5" longer bolts are needed. All 11 body pucks are the same, but there are three different body mount bolt sizes. Then, I made some 2" lift motor mounts using 3/16" plate, 1"x1" square 3/16" tubing and 2"x3" poly bushings from Offroad Design. The bolt/ bushing inner sleeve was bigger than the stock motor mount bolt, so I had to machine a new inner sleeve out of some spare steel bar stock to get a tighter fit with the stock bolt. These raised the motor 2" and with the 1.5" body lift, I had no clearance issues with the fan or anything else. The bellhousing is very close to the firewall though. Next, I made a transmission crossmember to be seperate from the flat skid plate to ease in maintnance and trail repair. This way the skidplate can be dropped without a need to support the tranny. I found some 1/4"x3"x3" angle iron to be bolted on each side of the frame using the 3 stock bolt holes. I drilled those accordingly and cut them down to fit. Then, I found some 1"x1" rectangular tubing for the crossmember between the angle sections. I took 3 pieces of this, welded them all together to make a 1"x3" crossmember. Using the stock transmission mount and rubber bushing, I drilled a piece of 1/4" plate with the 4 stock mount holes. This was then welded on top of the now 1"x3" crossmember. I took a 1" endmill and bored a hole through the center piece of the 1x3 to access the front most 2 studs of the 4 stud stock tranny mount. Then sleeved these holes with 1" tubing. This leaves just enough room for a thinwall socket and the nut to go on. I added some gussets out of 3/16 for strength holding the plate to the crossmember. Then gusseted the angle to 1x3 connection at each end. It is now in the jeep and supports the tranny. The exhaust had been redone already, but still fits in the stock mount. I drove it today for the first time in weeks and it does just fine. although it does vibrate significantly more with the poly motor mount bushings. I would go with rubber if I did it again.


Things I still have to do:
-make 1.5" spacers for the grill support bumpers
-make 1.5" spacer for the steering pillow bearing
-move the transfer case side of the xcase shift linkage down a couple inches so it doesnt sit at such a bad angle (i cant get into 4lo)
-get some 3/16" sheet and build the skidplate - I plan on machining some nuts round/ drilling into the crossmember/ and tig welding them flush then using some flat allen head screws to mount the skidplate to the crossmember
-grind the CVs on the front and rear driveshafts to allow for the added lift- with the 2" lift that is on there and the added 3" or so due to lifting the case, they are very close to binding

Hope this helps in realizing what all is needed to build a flat skid.
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Old 03-31-2006, 07:40 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MUDDTRACKS
n'th has the best tuck
...
what a pain in the ass it was to put together

but the belly pan is bad ass
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaRover
thx for the TT recommendation on nth

has anyone tried fabbing their own?
...
I don't have a TJ, but my brother and his neighbor does and he has made me quite a fan of Nth degree. He (the neighbor) wheels his Daily Driver HARD, and still gets to work on Monday.

I've seen the tuck and it is quite awsome (I wish Nth made XJ parts...). But I have also heard the stories of the install...

But what I'm figuring is: If you are seriously considering fabbing your own, then the install of a well engineered part like that should be a piece of cake.

- Just my opinion... I COULD be wrong.
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Old 03-31-2006, 04:02 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Dont get me wrong I like to Nth kit. It works good But there are so many little parts to wear out and to many bolts to come lose.

I think they over engineered the lift. But I guess time will tell on that one.
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