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Old 03-29-2006, 11:28 AM   #1 (permalink)
 
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Grinding ears to accept full c-clips

Got a set of XJ shafts with 297s that I'm swapping into my wife's YJ D30. I'm sure this has been covered, but does anyone have any tips for grinding the insides of the ears to accept full c-clips? Any preferred type of grinder wheel for doing this? Is it better to use something smaller, like a die grinder?

Thanks,

Brian
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Old 03-29-2006, 11:51 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SubCultureNM
Got a set of XJ shafts with 297s that I'm swapping into my wife's YJ D30. I'm sure this has been covered, but does anyone have any tips for grinding the insides of the ears to accept full c-clips? Any preferred type of grinder wheel for doing this? Is it better to use something smaller, like a die grinder?

Thanks,

Brian
I have used a cutoff wheel and my 4.5" hand held grinder before. Works, but is tricky (was for me anyway) and a PITA if you mess up.

Full circle clips are sure worth it though.

A tip -- buy Alloy USA CrMo outers for not that much more than the Spicers and be done with it. They are already relieved the right way for the clips. You need trail...err...grocery store parking lot spares anyway, right? You know, in case the wife breaks an outer.


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Old 03-29-2006, 12:02 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Die grinder works pretty easily - or use the 4.5" grinder with the metal grinding wheel. I have Superior outers but carry stock chevy outers for spares and did it to them.
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Old 03-29-2006, 08:07 PM   #4 (permalink)
 
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Thanks guys. I've already got the full set of inners and stubs with u-joints, so I'm not going to buy new stub shafts (I have Warn inners and Superior stub shafts in our TJ, so I know well the advantages of the stronger parts). I'm doing the swap mainly to get rid of the disconnect, but the bigger u-joints with full c-clips are another advantage. She's only running 32s, so I figure this set-up will be plenty strong.

Last edited by SubCultureNM; 03-29-2006 at 08:08 PM.
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Old 03-29-2006, 08:58 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I used my chop saw and just fed the ears in to the blade. Took me about 5minutes per axle.
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Old 03-30-2006, 07:37 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Rather than do all that, you can just weld the caps of the u-joints into the axleshafts with 4 small welds on each one. It keeps the shaft ears from elongating as well as retaining the caps.

Hans
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Old 03-31-2006, 09:01 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I personally don't like welding the caps on. Then if one does fail, you have to fight with the weld to replace the joint. It also changes the integrity of the yoke. I personally prefer locktite'ing the caps in.
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