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Old 04-02-2006, 11:28 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Cage and full doors in a YJ

Alright, I'm thinking about the cage I want to build in my YJ project. After looking at it for a while today I was thinking about how to make the A-pillars fit nicely into the pocket that's between the dash and the full doors that are on it now. I want to be able to retain the full doors, since that's what I have for doors for the rig (no soft doors), and winter gets nasty here.

The problem I see is that there doesn't seem to be much room for 1.5 or 1.75" tube to fit into that pocket while still be able to use the window crank on a full door. Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions on how to make this work? Does anyone offer "shorty" handles for the window cranks that would provide more room to work with in that "pocket", or do you have an ingenious way you got around this little issue?
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Old 04-03-2006, 04:32 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Cage

Haven't seen it done yet, there should be more important things you are worrying about when building a cage then door handles. Check the poison spyder cages, they are flat by the doors. Or you can pop the door open 3 inches and crank it like the rest of the people here.
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Old 04-03-2006, 07:16 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Haven't seen it done yet, there should be more important things you are worrying about when building a cage then door handles. Check the poison spyder cages, they are flat by the doors. Or you can pop the door open 3 inches and crank it like the rest of the people here.
See! I knew there was an obvious solution I was overlooking... open the door a bit and roll down the window.

Now I kind of feel like a jackass for even posting this, but I honestly did not even think about that...
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Old 04-03-2006, 08:05 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Black Sheep
Haven't seen it done yet, there should be more important things you are worrying about when building a cage then door handles. Check the poison spyder cages, they are flat by the doors. Or you can pop the door open 3 inches and crank it like the rest of the people here.
I havent run my full doors in 2 years or so... but When I did I just opened the door to roll them up or down...
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Old 04-03-2006, 08:41 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Yup, gotta love the looks people give when I roll into the drive-thru at the bank and have to stop a few feet in front of the machine to open the door and crank the window down.
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Old 04-03-2006, 09:21 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Or you could take the window crank off, tack a nut in its place and use one of them ratcheting box end wrenches thats reversible. Shouldn't take much to fasten it on there semi permanently, then just ratchet the window down.
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Old 04-03-2006, 09:53 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by kwrangln
Or you could take the window crank off, tack a nut in its place and use one of them ratcheting box end wrenches thats reversible. Shouldn't take much to fasten it on there semi permanently, then just ratchet the window down.
SOUNDS LIKE A PLAN
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Old 04-03-2006, 11:52 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I just open the door on my full doors to roll down the windows, of course I like the wrench idea. I have a diagonal running between the A-B pillars, which meant I had to remove the map pocket on the door. Its a tight fit for everything with 1.75 tube.
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Old 04-04-2006, 04:28 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Cage

I wasn't trying to be a smartass, but theres always a scenario of compromise when building a cage. I run 2" dom for my cage , no cutting of anything and i have no issues closing the doors. Theres pics of it in the "Suspenions Ride Height/PICS" Thread if you are interested, Id just leave it personally. The only time i run Hard doors is when its too cold for the soft doors/no doors to keep the heat in, and then i don't want the window down anyways. Plus if you ever need to crack the window you can re-install the handle so that you can crack it about 3 inches or so without even opening the door.
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