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Old 11-22-2006, 09:20 AM   #1 (permalink)
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78' Ford F250 HP44 Questions????

I bought a 78' Ford HP44 empty with no outer knuckles. I am going to narrow it to 61.5" and run 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern. This axle will go under my TJ.

I am new to this so be gettle as I am in Kuwait missing my Jeep.

My questions (I have searched and did not get the questions answered):

1. I am looking at Crane knuckles and with these knuckles what will I need to complete them, i.e. spindles, rotors, hubs, etc.?

2. Do I narrow the long side only or both the long and short side to get 61.5"? I do not have the axle here to messure the length now so I have no idea how long it is.

3. I have a looked a couple websites on changing waggy axles to 5 on 5.5 but can I run older Ford 1/2 ton parts to complete the conversion? I would like to go to the parts store and get the parts I need for brakes, spindles, seals, bearings, etc.

4. If someone has done this swap recently let me know what parts you have used.

I am newbi to front axle and I am doing reseach but some of gets confusing on parts list.

Thanks. Let flaming begin.
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Old 11-22-2006, 09:39 AM   #2 (permalink)
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1. yes spindles (small bearing chevy off of a half ton) and 1979 or a similar year half ton ford rotor

2. There are a couple of ways to narrow this axle a lot of folks narrow each side so they can run waggy shafts.

3. I did everything chevy except the rotors.. calipers, backing plates (or caliper brakets) all from a chevy

4. read above ^^^^^^

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Old 11-22-2006, 11:17 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I just bougth a 73' HP 44, and will doing the same shortly. my plan is to

go with the Chevy flatop knuckles, spindle and caliper brackets and then Ford hubs, rotors and bearings
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Old 11-22-2006, 07:27 PM   #4 (permalink)
 
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Here is a great site, has about all you need to know on 44s.

http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/web_rs44.html

Don't spend money on the Cranes, just get the Chevy outers, small bearing spindles and Chevy stub shafts. That is what I did on my 76 HP 44.

Last edited by Murfman; 11-24-2006 at 07:46 PM.
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Old 11-22-2006, 07:40 PM   #5 (permalink)
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that's a great site Murf.


getting ready to put a HP44 (79 I think) into my YJ. its 3/4 ton (3inch diameter tubes) but has half ton outers. I'm planning on cutting the axle down to accept waggy inners. for knuckles, I'm going with deadenbear stuff. that way I can reuse everything else I already have.
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Old 11-22-2006, 07:54 PM   #6 (permalink)
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FYI:he said its a f250 hp 44 they have leafs not coils.
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Old 11-23-2006, 04:11 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Thanks for the replies. I have looked through the "Mr. N" site and there is good info but not specific info. I like the Crane knuckles because the have the key system for high steer arms. I am going high steer right now but in the future I would like the option.

If I understand the info correct I need either Chevy or Ford spindles depending on the knuckles (weather 5 or 6 bolts) and I can go Ford 1/2 ton everything else.

The inner axles will be based on the length I cut the tubes too and the inners are either Chevy or Ford based on the spindles?

The Big question is what years do ask the parts guy for when buying the everthing minus inner, outer shafts, and the warn hubs?
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Old 11-23-2006, 04:55 AM   #8 (permalink)
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go here
http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/flatop_knucles.html

.. about half way down the page he has a "Knuckle out Section" there it list the different bolt patterns and what you need for each one including the year..
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Old 11-23-2006, 05:21 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I did some more research and it looks like I can run waggy shafts (inner and outer) with Chevy small bearing spindles. It looks like Crane uses 6 bolt knuckles (Chevy) so it looks like I am going to mix parts for a 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern.
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Old 11-23-2006, 07:03 PM   #10 (permalink)
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what about the large bearing Spindles can they be used?
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Old 11-24-2006, 03:33 AM   #11 (permalink)
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what about the large bearing Spindles can they be used?
According to a couple website on this conversion you have to use the small bearing spindles. I might be wrong.
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Old 11-25-2006, 10:18 AM   #12 (permalink)
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found out today that you can machine the rotors out to accept the larger bearing on the Chevy spindle, I think I'll go that route
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Old 11-25-2006, 10:43 AM   #13 (permalink)
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That last post confused me. I thought the purpose of using the small bearing spindles is so that you can use the Ford 5 on 5.5 HUBs. These hubs wont fit the large bearing spindles, because the the larger bearing wont fit into them. Machining the rotors would have nothing to do with that. I have heard of people machining large bearing spindles to fit the smaller bearings. Personally, I'd just get the correct, small bearing spindles.
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Old 11-25-2006, 01:48 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Bubba_Jeep
That last post confused me. I thought the purpose of using the small bearing spindles is so that you can use the Ford 5 on 5.5 HUBs. These hubs wont fit the large bearing spindles, because the the larger bearing wont fit into them. Machining the rotors would have nothing to do with that. I have heard of people machining large bearing spindles to fit the smaller bearings. Personally, I'd just get the correct, small bearing spindles.

you can machine the Ford hub to accept the large Chevy bearing. that way you get your 5 on 5.5 but you also get the benifits of the larger bearing aswell
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Old 11-26-2006, 05:36 AM   #15 (permalink)
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What are some other websites that talk about this conversion?
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Old 11-28-2006, 10:15 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Can I use the parts of a 80+ Front Dana TTB?
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Old 11-29-2006, 06:56 PM   #17 (permalink)
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if anything maybe the rotors and im not even sure of that..
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Old 11-29-2006, 07:08 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jebdrup
Can I use the parts of a 80+ Front Dana TTB?
Spindles/hubs/etc will swap.
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Old 11-30-2006, 12:57 AM   #19 (permalink)
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One of the better threads I have seen on narrowing a HP44 and should answer most of your questions.

http://72.41.91.149/forum/showthread.php?t=2805
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Old 11-30-2006, 10:49 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I now have all the answers to narrowing an axle what hubs and knuckles to use but what about steering issues with the track bar? Can anybody shed light on this subject?
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Old 12-01-2006, 08:00 AM   #21 (permalink)
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you know what , you should just give the axle to me.

I think a little more specificity is needed on the second question about steering, but in general, you'll want to set up your track bar to have the same or as close to the same angle as your drag link. The results of not doing so will be severe bump steer and a jeep that drives like a 2 yr old child... it doesn't want to follow direction ...

you should be able to find more info on those websites also .... good luck
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Old 12-01-2006, 10:24 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Own the steering question. Does the tierod rub on the trackbar? Does the trackbar mount get in the way? Thanks for the replies. I spend a lot of time searching for the answer and a lot the time I find info on YJs but I have TJ.
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Old 12-02-2006, 09:21 AM   #23 (permalink)
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I'd say track bar/tie-rod interference depends on the type of frame bracket, axle mount, track bar, differential bridge, and steering set-up (high or normal), etc. My experience comes from a build I just completed. '79 HP D44 into an XJ. On full compression, driver's side track bar mount(home built RE heavy duty style) hits the UCA bridge (an RE bride). The drop is stock. The tie rod barely clears the bolt going through the frame-side track bar (I have Parts Mike high steer arms) at full left steering. On the passenger side, the track bar hits the oil pan. The track bar is a straight piece mounted above the axle tube and parallel to the tie rod. Additionally, the engine is a Chevy V8. The answere? More bump stops and possibly put a bend in the track bar. Oh, and my Jeep's lifted 6.5 inches.

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Old 12-02-2006, 09:14 PM   #24 (permalink)
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I can't wait to tackle mine when the it's time (sense the sarcasism)..
I was planning on pushing the axle ahead 1-2" if possible in my TJ.. I've heard that using High Steer can cause some issuse.. If there's to many clearence issuse I'll just run the cross over setup up
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Old 12-06-2006, 04:00 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I was tlaking to a buddy of mine.. turns out he used D-side axle shafts from an EB and Waggy shafts for the passenger side.. he only had to cut the long side and cut about 3/4" of spline off the outter EB shaft..

only thing that I can see being a problem with this is that you wouldn't beable to adjust your caster unless you cut off your D-side C. and the pumpkin woul dbe abit more towards the P-side, resulting in an offset front D-shaft..
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