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Old 01-19-2007, 01:57 PM   #1 (permalink)
 
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got a CJ-7 now where to start

got me a 78 cj-7 last night got it runnin all it took was a lil gas and riggin up the switch. The motor, tranny, and transfer case are all in good shape. Im pretty sure the axles are good too jus not sure what they are. The only thing i am worried about is rust, it sat for a good 4 years with no top in the rain and the rust is about to take over the body i would like to take off the back half of the tub and do some tube work. Where do i need to start on something like this, and how much money am i looking at?
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Old 01-19-2007, 03:39 PM   #2 (permalink)
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and how much money am i looking at?
alot

whats the engine/tranny?
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Old 01-19-2007, 04:07 PM   #3 (permalink)
 
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258 I-6 and a 3 spd
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Old 01-19-2007, 06:32 PM   #4 (permalink)
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got me a 78 cj-7 last night got it runnin all it took was a lil gas and riggin up the switch. The motor, tranny, and transfer case are all in good shape. Im pretty sure the axles are good too jus not sure what they are. The only thing i am worried about is rust, it sat for a good 4 years with no top in the rain and the rust is about to take over the body i would like to take off the back half of the tub and do some tube work. Where do i need to start on something like this, and how much money am i looking at?
Stock axles would be dana30 front/AMC20 rear, three speed is a PITA offroad, not worth spending any money on, sell them if you can or pitch them. Engine and t-case are probably/possibly keepers.
Pull the drive train and the tub off the frame set it aside and ignore it. Clean the crap out of the frame and give it a good inspection for rust and cracks, if it looks good install some temp bracing and chop off the section in rear where your gonna do you tube work, finish weld all the stitch welds and box the open sections up front.
This part will really only cost you time and is the basis for a rig that will last.
Search up some of the different tube tie-ins and suspension setups that are on this site before you start down that path.
Leave the work on the body to the end, lots of guys here have spent countless hours on rust repair only to find out that they need to chop out a fender section for tire clearance, or a section of floor pan to clear a clocked t-case.
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Last edited by LCAC_Man; 01-19-2007 at 06:33 PM.
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Old 01-20-2007, 01:19 AM   #5 (permalink)
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mc 2100 carb swap, and TFI or HEI ignitoin upgrade
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Old 01-20-2007, 07:04 AM   #6 (permalink)
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where are you located in NC?
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Old 01-20-2007, 01:07 PM   #7 (permalink)
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got me a 78 cj-7 last night Where do i need to start on something like this, and how much money am i looking at?
Like was posted....A lot. A whole bunch. I've got around $30K into my 76 CJ5 Resto/Mod. But first....

You need to really decide what the end product is gonna be. Daily driver with some off road time. Off road machine with some street driving time. Or an all out trail rig. And if you decide it's gonna be a dedicated trail rig, you need to decide what sort of terrain you are gonna run. I does make a huge difference whether you want to mud race, or crawl over rocks.

One important thing...Do Not, I repeat, DO NOT, throw anything away. Even the smallest bolt, clamp, bracket. Keep everything, until you've got a running vehicle you are happy with. Does your Jeep look this bad:
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Old 01-20-2007, 03:57 PM   #8 (permalink)
 
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where are you located in NC?
im from northern part or north carolina, above winston salem



nah it dont look that bad the rear is just real rusted but we took care of that
by chopping it off behind the stock roll bar im planning to tie that into the frame and then make an extension aroudn the windshield and to the frame through the floor

Its gonna be all trail with some mud, rocks and everthing between. I only plan on driving on the road from trailhead to trail head or to a friends house bout 5 mins away which is all backroads.

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Old 01-20-2007, 08:55 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I think that Hack gets the prize for starting with the most rot. I kept my 78 CJ5 simple- AMC 401, CJ T18, Scout Dana 300, 4.56s with Lockrights in the difs, axels are stock with one piece upgrade on the Corporate 20 (I plan on trading for a Dana 44 in lieu of the 20 soon, Im looking for the right axel now), 2 lift, 33x 9.5 Buckshot Mudders . No adaptors, fuss, or muss, just KISS. I like to keep Jeep, Jeep. (Not that I care if one elects not to; its your jeep.)

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Old 01-21-2007, 11:09 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I like Saddle Tramps post-that's like a breath of fresh air here at pirate!
The P.O. of my 78 C5 took a different route by replacing the body with a fiberglass one. I have learned how to deal w/fiberglass over the years so hopefully this work work out for my purposes. Now if I can just straighten out all the bad ideas they had with everything else....
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Old 01-22-2007, 02:05 PM   #11 (permalink)
 
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im not really worried about how the body looks i want a good cage for protection decent flex and lockers for traction. what extras are needed on a CJ-7 for a spring over?
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Old 01-22-2007, 04:03 PM   #12 (permalink)
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...what extras are needed on a CJ-7 for a spring over?
Springover? Springover? Don't talk springover! (ala Miller Light commercial)

Get your wallet out. Yeah, it can be done on the cheap. But....If you're looking for all that lift, then you are looking for running big tires. And it goes on, and on, and on.
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Old 01-22-2007, 06:28 PM   #13 (permalink)
 
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i have some 3 inch blocks already jus need some u bolts. I really dont want BIG tires probally 35's max.
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Old 01-22-2007, 06:51 PM   #14 (permalink)
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i have some 3 inch blocks already jus need some u bolts. I really dont want BIG tires probally 35's max.
Please tell me your being sarcastic.
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Old 01-22-2007, 06:54 PM   #15 (permalink)
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35's on stock axles -thats a no no except for the mall crawl. And throw those blocks in the garbage. Sounds like Hack is trying to tell you something-doing a SOA the right way takes money.
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Old 01-22-2007, 09:17 PM   #16 (permalink)
 
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I mean but by "right way" what do you mean. To some it would be that it works as a good beater and drive just fine to be a all trail thrashing rig. But others it would be fit and finished with all perfect steering geometry and no axle wrap and all that stuff. Im not real worried about it, i want it to flex decent ( my definition is probally way different than yours, my standards may be lower than yours) and this build is going to be as cheap as i can get by with im a broke ass student that just dont give a f**k and wants something to thrash i got the TJ if i wanna spend money on something
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Old 01-23-2007, 12:01 AM   #17 (permalink)
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you want to be cheep....then get a job working at your local auto wreckers.

plenty of parts to pick from.

learn how to weld and make a friend with some one who has a tube bender.


dump the 3 speed trani. get a good 4/5 speed, with grani first.

the amc 258 can be build (stock trim) for about the same as a good chevy small block, but go with fuel injection.

plan on dumping both front and rear axles for 35 or taller tires,
min dana 44's light will work,
best is a set of dana 60...but very heavy. (need the v8 here)
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Old 01-23-2007, 07:02 AM   #18 (permalink)
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...by "right way" what do you mean. To some it would be that it works as a good beater and drive just fine to be a all trail thrashing rig. But others it would be fit and finished with all perfect steering geometry and no axle wrap and all that stuff. Im not real worried about it, i want it to flex decent ( my definition is probally way different than yours, my standards may be lower than yours) and this build is going to be as cheap as i can get by with im a broke ass student that just dont give a f**k and wants something to thrash i got the TJ if i wanna spend money on something
What I mean is that you've built something that is safe. That when you decide to take it on the road (or even on a trail-they're getting crowded now) and get the vehicle above 30mph it's not gonna 'death wobble' so violently that it'll rip the steering box from the frame. And cause yourself, your passengers, or some innocent bystander to get injured or killed.

FWIW: I hope that never happens, but if it did, I don't think anyone would care that you are just 'a broke ass student and just don't give a f**k'. It's a litigious society where everyone is looking for the opportunity to sue.
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Old 01-23-2007, 08:30 PM   #19 (permalink)
 
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yea i can weld decent and 2 of my friends have tube benders (the hydrolic jack versions from northern hydrolic). Im probally gonna go down my own road with this one because its my first build and learning stuff the hard way is IMO the best way to learn, even if it does hurt ya at the moment
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Old 01-24-2007, 06:44 AM   #20 (permalink)
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You don't realize it now-but ppl here are trying to point you in the right direction so you save money and trouble in the long run. You've got some bad ideas that just need to be adjusted a little. Go smaller on the tires--32" max w/stock axles. Do the SOA and throw away the blocks. Drop the skid plate an inch for U-joint's sake. Go have fun. Fix the rest when you get the experience and knowledge.
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Old 01-24-2007, 03:52 PM   #21 (permalink)
 
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yea about the blocks, i was thinkin 3 inch blocks with spring under axle. Not SOA that would be crazy bout 9" of lift. How much lift will just the SOA gimme probally about 6" im thinkin. That and mayb some 33's is what i'll do for now maybe a locker in the front d30 and full cage then wheel it till the thing breaks.
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Old 01-24-2007, 05:19 PM   #22 (permalink)
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yea about the blocks, i was thinkin 3 inch blocks with spring under axle.
please tell me that you are still kidding?

blocks are spacers between the axle in the springs. with a spring under axle setup you will be LOWERING (moving the axle higher in relation to the springs / moving towards the wheel wells vs. away) the jeep not lifting it.

If you your looking to lift on the cheap in a spring under application you can use add-a-leafs, although its gonna ride extremely rough.

good luck on the build

Last edited by ElJeepo79; 01-24-2007 at 05:21 PM. Reason: clarification
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Old 01-24-2007, 05:29 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Get a cheap 2.5-3 inch lift with full springs and shocks and trim the fenders till the 33s fit. Also get one piece shafts for the rear and regear both axles and put a locker in the rear first.

You also might want to hold off on this project for a while until you figure out what you need yourself.
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