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Old 11-13-2007, 12:39 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Thanks I will keep an eye out on this thred for your pic's. Cheers
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Old 11-13-2007, 01:30 PM   #27 (permalink)
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i dont want to Hijack this thread so check my build thread, the link is in my sig.
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Old 11-13-2007, 02:38 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Ok
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Old 12-10-2007, 03:14 AM   #29 (permalink)
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OH! What a pity I saw this thread so late.
Drunken, I also have done a Toyo axles swap in my YJ, but...
I used some HDJ80 24v Axles. This is the model name of the 6cyl diesel landcruiser in europe, has 8" and 8,8" gears with e-lockers.

I simply rotated the front housing and modified the diff stud pattern in the housing to put in the carrier as usual. Indeed I also swapped the knuckles.
Been like this 1,5 year and it ran like a champ.

The only thing that I don't agree with the other pals is in the axles width. Mines are 165cms WMS-WMS (65" approx) being the rear slightly narrower. I use stock 7" alum rims.
Thats my nightmare as I needed 20cms (7.9") wide fender flares to cover the rubbers, and at the last inspection they rejected the frog bcouse the tire was coming out the fender 1,5cms (1/2")

In Spain you have to take the Wrangler to pass the inspection tests every 6 months. They test emissions, lights, light intensity and alignment, belts, brakes force and balance, same for e-brake, tire size, weight, dimensions... ALL! You must also declare any color paint mod

If you fail the tire, weight or something related to offroad modifs they inmobilize the car. They inmobilised mines last week, but I escaped (was a trail on sat)

You can see some pics of my swap on this link: http://album.miarroba.com/Rapoza/2/

Certifying all the mods last year (for like 1k$), you can see the inspections center:


I can only tell you an advice: Trow with this Toyo shit, they don't turn at all (very big turning radius)
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Old 12-10-2007, 07:33 AM   #30 (permalink)
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OH! What a pity I saw this thread so late.
Drunken, I also have done a Toyo axles swap in my YJ, but...
I used some HDJ80 24v Axles. This is the model name of the 6cyl diesel landcruiser in europe, has 8" and 8,8" gears with e-lockers.

I simply rotated the front housing and modified the diff stud pattern in the housing to put in the carrier as usual. Indeed I also swapped the knuckles.
Been like this 1,5 year and it ran like a champ.

The only thing that I don't agree with the other pals is in the axles width. Mines are 165cms WMS-WMS (65" approx) being the rear slightly narrower. I use stock 7" alum rims.
Thats my nightmare as I needed 20cms (7.9") wide fender flares to cover the rubbers, and at the last inspection they rejected the frog bcouse the tire was coming out the fender 1,5cms (1/2")

In Spain you have to take the Wrangler to pass the inspection tests every 6 months. They test emissions, lights, light intensity and alignment, belts, brakes force and balance, same for e-brake, tire size, weight, dimensions... ALL! You must also declare any color paint mod

If you fail the tire, weight or something related to offroad modifs they inmobilize the car. They inmobilised mines last week, but I escaped (was a trail on sat)

You can see some pics of my swap on this link: http://album.miarroba.com/Rapoza/2/

Certifying all the mods last year (for like 1k$), you can see the inspections center:


I can only tell you an advice: Trow with this Toyo shit, they don't turn at all (very big turning radius)
More details on how you made that axle a drivers drop.
That's very very interesting!!!
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Old 12-10-2007, 08:22 AM   #31 (permalink)
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That is a pretty wild jeep. I like the flip on the axle.

I dont know what your talking about on the bad radius, my turning raius is awesome, well once i get it adjusted and stop bending my tierod.
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Old 12-10-2007, 12:16 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Tony, for converting the front axle to drivers side drop, I done the following steps. I grabbed the axle as I was sitting on the engine bay, removed the 3th member, removed all until I had the bare housing. Then cutted the knuckles out and all the brackets minus the susp.arms ones.

Then the important step, grab the housing and rotate it 180 degrees.

Resolder the knuckles but left-on-right (basically the knuckles stays were you chopped them) adjusting caster and camber.

Then you remove the studs on the 3th member receiver and make a mold with its shape. Weld plug all the holes and the notch for the locker actuator. Rotate exactly 180deg the mold. Redo the holes in the new positions and tap them, reinstall the studs, Redo the notch for the actuator.


Reinstall the 3th member and all the other parts...

the suspension arms they go inverted now and mate to the frame curve

I also cut the drain plug and welded it on the bottom, as after the rotation it stays at the top of the housing. Also replaced the front cover and welded it back rotated.


It looks like factory and if you use the correct welding rods the coupling for the 3th becomes harder than stock. I buyed some rods used for rebuild the splines on shafts and do repairs on naval engine pistons. (don't know the part numbers... 29/9 if I remember correct)

As you can see on the last picture it is wide, more than enough.

Alcolade... I don't know whats wrong with it, but it turns noticeably less than any D30. In the last competition, the last 3 years winner told me that I was driving so good, but the Jeep simply don't turn at the tights.

BTW, How you make the Hister conversion? My knuckles only have two bolts at the top, not 4 to put the lower arms at the top.
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Last edited by Rapoza; 12-11-2007 at 01:53 AM. Reason: Its caster and camber, me idiot :P
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Old 12-10-2007, 04:00 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Thanks.
So....the knuckles are upside down now?
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Old 12-10-2007, 07:08 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Thanks.
So....the knuckles are upside down now?
Those are FJ80 axles with the tie rod behind the axle, not stock mini-truck. His knuckles are how they should be, he just cut everything off of the housing, flipped it side for side and re-installed everything. Seems like a LOT of work. Came out cool though.
Travis..
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Old 12-10-2007, 07:29 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Ah, I see it now.
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Old 12-11-2007, 01:52 AM   #36 (permalink)
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That's it, the knuckles stay the same.
I don't see it such a lot of work, whenever you're adapting the axle to a YJ, you must chop almost all the brackets. And removing the knuckles is only a matter of doing a little cut with the angle grinder.

Sorry guys for my bad spelling, sometimes I come back after a little I cannot understand things I wrote.

Do you think that having a bad turning radius can be caused by a incorrect caster angle setup?
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Old 12-11-2007, 03:13 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Exactly how strong are 8" fronts? Those appear to make a good, light swap for a rear steering CJ3B.
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Old 12-11-2007, 10:24 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Well

Once built, people are running 37" tires and bigger on them, and they do pretty well. The ring and pinion proves to be a weak point. They compare quite favorably with the Dana 44 and have a few advantages.
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Old 12-11-2007, 01:02 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Very cool Jeep! Anyway I am still in the middle of this build and I am just finishing up the front end spring mounts and shackle hangers, I put the spring perch mounts at 30” Toyotas are 29” and YJ are 31.5”. The reason I haven’t found many YJ builds with Toyota 8” mini truck axles is mostly to do with the width issue as far as I can tell so here is what I have planed.

Jeep YJ front axle is around 60” wms to wms
Toyota 8” mini truck axle is 55.5” wms to wms

So it would seem that I am short 4.5” to even get to a stock YJ width axle, so the plan is to run 2” BS 15x8 wheels and here is why.

Stock YJ wheel BS is 5.25”
New wheel is 2” BS so if I take the 3.25” per wheel that I will gain x 2 wheels = 6.5”wider – the 4.5” difference = 2” wider than a stock YJ

So that 4.5” axle difference now becomes a Toyota axle that is 2” wider than a stock YJ (well WMS anyway). Now I plan to run 35x12.5 tires and my question is this: If you where to take a stock YJ wheel add 1”offset and run a 35x12.5 tire do you think that you would run into clearance issues? There is two other ways to gain width for this dilemma I could go as low as a 1” BS wheel from MRW or run BS wheels with wheel spacers. Now I know that this is going to be hard on the bearings, studs, axle’s shafts, kingpins and screw up my scrub radius but this is going to be primarily an off road Jeep anyway and I will upgrade to stronger birf’s in the future. I will try and post some pictures soon.

Cheers
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Old 12-11-2007, 02:23 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Yeah

I'd actually run Yota axles front and rear. The rears are pretty tough. You can widen the toy fronts using ifs hubs and spacers to about 58"

The dana 35 is crap, don't know why you'd run one anyways. I'll take a Toy rear anyday over a Turdy5.
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Old 12-11-2007, 11:43 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Some buddies and I have done a couple of these now... one flipped for a nissan on leafs. And this is in my TJ. So far so good.....
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Old 12-11-2007, 11:49 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Oh yeah, this is a landcruiser 60 series axle... 58.5" WMS-WMS approx... 1.5" spacers and all is well. Seems to work well. Relatively cheap. The knuckles are turned all the way around... ~180 degrees. That's the hardest part, atleast with mine they were very tight. As with any TJ front, the high steer is very tight with the track bar and springs. Might get new arms made custom that are a bit longer if it turns into a problem. But so far it's fine.

Since we're in the Non Hardcore forum.... Oh baby is highway driving awesome! So straight, no bump steer, it's great.
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Old 12-12-2007, 07:25 AM   #43 (permalink)
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Ok

I have a chance at some 60 series axles. How much does the front differ from the Mintruck axles parts wise?
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Old 12-12-2007, 08:04 AM   #44 (permalink)
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Some buddies and I have done a couple of these now... one flipped for a nissan on leafs. And this is in my TJ. So far so good.....

Very nice! I have a question for you, you say your axle is 58.5 and that you are running 1.5” wheel spacers so that would make your tire mounting location at 61.5”? And what BS do you have on your wheels? Thanks
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Old 12-12-2007, 08:17 AM   #45 (permalink)
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Parts wise... the birfs themselves are the same, as are the knuckles, steering arms, etc. The tie rod/drag link have to be a bit longer of course. The 3rd is different, a larger ring and pinion, carrier, etc... One of the inner shafts is the same, the other is longer, i don't remember which. But the spline count, diameter of the shafts are the same.

I'm just running AR 3.75 BS rims.
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Old 12-13-2007, 10:19 AM   #46 (permalink)
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Has no one ever swapped in Toyota mini truck axles into a YJ before?

With 2" BS wheels and even maybe some wheel spacers you would be able to eliminate the width issue, you would however cause extra stress on the axle and its components but for an off-road only rig so what.

Someone has had to have done this swap before! Anyone?????

Last edited by drunkenscott; 12-13-2007 at 10:20 AM.
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Old 12-13-2007, 11:01 AM   #47 (permalink)
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Well there's the jeep in this thread that's a YJ with minitruck axles Other than that I will try to answer your question

"If you were to take a stock YJ wheel add 1”offset and run a 35x12.5 tire do you think that you would run into clearance issues?" With my 3.75" and 1.5" spacers I do not have any rubbing issues. And it's not all that wide. Now I also have a lot of lift, probably more than I should, running the RE 5.5" long arm lift, with the winch on the front end it was still measured at about 6-6.5" of vertical lift. Other than that, in terms of wheel well clearance, our vehicles are the same. I would get the landcuirser 60 series though if I were you... it's a lot of work you're going to put into that housing that will be useless to anyone else by the time you are done. The 60 series is stronger and wider and just a better starting point to avoid issues with stress on steering and support components when it comes to making it wider overall....
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Old 12-13-2007, 01:32 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Here are some pics of the front almost done.






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Old 12-13-2007, 03:27 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Oh I see, you didn't even need to flip the housing. Well if you're that far into it, just keep going.
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Old 12-13-2007, 07:37 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Yes that is correct I did not need to flip the axle as I am going to run a NP231 to Dana 300, my plan is to have the rolling chaise done by the end of winter and then the body and everything else in the beginning of summer.

These axles are definitely going in this Jeep one way or another even if I have to run 2” BS wheels and 2” wheel spacers, I will however upgrade to stronger wheel studs.

Trying to find axles for a swap here in southern Manitoba is very hard as I have looked for the last year and people usually want too much or they are happy to let there 4x4 rot in a field, example I have found scouts, older broncos, one ton Ford & Chevy’s, Land cruisers, Jeeps, etc. It is a crying shame to let those older 4x4 gems rot away like that!

So the best I could find and compromise with were these Toyota axles and I think with the 4cyl and right gearing (5.29) will do me for my requirements, I will post some more pictures when I have the driveline swapped in.

Cheers
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