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Old 04-11-2008, 05:19 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Durango steering box swap to a TJ

i just recently swapped a 98 durango steering with a v8 to my 2001 TJ, my question to those who know about this swap or have done this swap, do you need to swap a new p.s. pump too? or can the stock TJ one support the bigger box. also if anyone has noticed any problems come about doing the swap. only thing i noticed which is expected is very touchy steering and steering is stiffer.
anyone can shed some light, much appreciate it
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Old 04-11-2008, 05:26 PM   #2 (permalink)
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my light will be shed, but dont know if it will help.


I actually did this swap about 3 weeks ago. Install went just fine (well no issues besides it being a PITA). The steering is much stiffer and on the freeway it is very touchy. I have talked to some others about this, and I think the addition of a higher flowing power steering pump would greatly improve the steering. Although, I have since been driving my Jeep everyday and just wheeled to and from JV and did Wrecking Ball. I had no issues at all on the trail. I think a better power steering pump (dont know what kind) and a power steering pump cooler will be in my future upgrades.
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Old 04-18-2008, 05:33 PM   #3 (permalink)
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anyone know if you can still put a steering box skid plate on with the durango box? wasn't sure if the durango box was too big for the normal skid plate
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Old 04-18-2008, 06:19 PM   #4 (permalink)
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my warn steering box skid fit almost perfectly (no gap) but, it has about 1/4" of clearance.

As for the power steering pump, see if you can find a smaller pulley so it is turning faster, thus creating more pressure! I know with mine, at idle, zig zagging through a parking lot, i can feel the steering not push as fast as when you are revving.
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Old 04-18-2008, 07:21 PM   #5 (permalink)
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my warn steering box skid fit almost perfectly (no gap) but, it has about 1/4" of clearance.

As for the power steering pump, see if you can find a smaller pulley so it is turning faster, thus creating more pressure! I know with mine, at idle, zig zagging through a parking lot, i can feel the steering not push as fast as when you are revving.
yeah but if your using a smaller pulley your going to gain pressure but your going to loose volume.. its a win loose situation. I'd just run it with the stock pump and everything.. Its a pretty good bolt on upgrade
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Old 04-19-2008, 08:26 PM   #6 (permalink)
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A friend and I switched mine eight months ago. Initially, it was an issue because I had a dropped pitman arm on the old box. When we switched to the Durango box, I switched to Currie Currect-Lync steering too. The steering was way too twitchy and I lost some angle in how far I could turn.

The nice folks at Currie pointed out that the Currect-Lync is made to correct the steering after a lift with a stock Pitman arm. So I found myself in the unenviable position of having to go to Four Wheel Parts and beg for a take-off stock arm in trade for the dropped one. This fixed it.

In Moab, while in four wheel drive, the pump would heat up and whine after about an hour on slickrock. I believe that trying to turn four powered tires on the equivalent of pavement was a lot of stress for the stock pump. I got to where I just unlocked a hub and drove in three wheel drive most of the time to take some of the pressure off of it. This is the only issue I've had with it.

My next plan is to have West Texas Off Road suggest some improvements. I am only using thirty five inch tires so I doubt I need much to make it a little more dependable.
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Old 04-20-2008, 02:27 PM   #7 (permalink)
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x2 on warn skid fitting with no problems. If any of you guys do anything to your pump please post back up so we all know. I too would like to get a little more response out of my wheel
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Old 04-21-2008, 02:44 PM   #8 (permalink)
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yeah but if your using a smaller pulley your going to gain pressure but your going to loose volume.. its a win loose situation. I'd just run it with the stock pump and everything.. Its a pretty good bolt on upgrade

uhh.... no??

you arent changing anything inside the pump, only the outside pulley. by putting a smaller pulley onto the pump, you will increase the input shaft speed, thus supplying the pump with more power to push more volume.

i think you might have your prop. equation mixed up with changing out the piston to a smaller size...thus creating less volume, but more pressure, or something.

i keep trying to think of how changine the pulley would change the volume negatively, and im not seeing it.
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Old 04-21-2008, 04:39 PM   #9 (permalink)
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In Moab, while in four wheel drive, the pump would heat up and whine after about an hour on slickrock. I believe that trying to turn four powered tires on the equivalent of pavement was a lot of stress for the stock pump. I got to where I just unlocked a hub and drove in three wheel drive most of the time to take some of the pressure off of it. This is the only issue I've had with it.

My next plan is to have West Texas Off Road suggest some improvements. I am only using thirty five inch tires so I doubt I need much to make it a little more dependable.
You need to plumb a small transmission cooler into the return line. I had to do this on my F-150. I blew out the pressure hose, and while cycling the steering back and forth to burp out the air out after replacing the hose the pressure line got hot enough to peel skin off your hand. This was after less than five minutes of lock to lock. After I stuck a small tranny cooler inline, it never got more than warm to the touch. Just make sure and use transmission cooler hose and not fuel hose, as the fuel hose isn't designed to handle the heat. It'll get hard and leak like a screen door in short order. I'm running electric fans on my truck and I mounted the P/S cooler in front of the puller fan so when the fan runs it pulls air across the cooler too.



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Old 04-21-2008, 05:49 PM   #10 (permalink)
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yeah but if your using a smaller pulley your going to gain pressure but your going to loose volume.. its a win loose situation. I'd just run it with the stock pump and everything.. Its a pretty good bolt on upgrade
Not true. Psc recommends this. It provides volume quicker at a lower rpm. I',m sure there is a bypass valve when the pressure is too high.

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Old 04-21-2008, 07:00 PM   #11 (permalink)
 
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I used a Durango box for 3 years with a stock pump without issues. I ran 37" boogers and 39.5 iroks during that time. I honestly don't know if it is alright to run that configuration or I was simply lucky. Just thought I would throw out my story.
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Old 04-21-2008, 08:18 PM   #12 (permalink)
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yeah, it works fine for me, unless im trying some really quick lock to lock turns under 2K rpm... otherwise its fine.
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Old 04-22-2008, 04:44 PM   #13 (permalink)
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You need to plumb a small transmission cooler into the return line. I had to do this on my F-150. I blew out the pressure hose, and while cycling the steering back and forth to burp out the air out after replacing the hose the pressure line got hot enough to peel skin off your hand. This was after less than five minutes of lock to lock. After I stuck a small tranny cooler inline, it never got more than warm to the touch. Just make sure and use transmission cooler hose and not fuel hose, as the fuel hose isn't designed to handle the heat. It'll get hard and leak like a screen door in short order. I'm running electric fans on my truck and I mounted the P/S cooler in front of the puller fan so when the fan runs it pulls air across the cooler too.



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I might actually do this on Saturday. Thanks. I don't intend to get back to Moab for maybe another two years, but if we go to Morris Mtn. or River Rock, I'd like to not have this issue again.

'Preciate it!
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