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Old 05-14-2011, 03:42 PM   #1 (permalink)
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The Victim...........................

2006 LJ with a 4.0L I6, 6sp manual and 33,000 miles on it. At present it's 100%
stock. The plan is a 4" lift from Savvy, AEV Tummy Tucker skidplate, a D44
front and Currie Rock Jock D60 rear, both with 4.88's and detroits. It's also
getting an Atlas II with 3.8 gears and heavy duty outputs front and rear.
I'm planning on 35" tires. The first thing will be to get rid of the "guards"
on the lights.
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Old 05-14-2011, 07:23 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Are you doing work or will Blaine be lending a hand? Looks like the only victim will be your wallet your doing this Jeep a favor.
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Old 05-15-2011, 07:48 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Are you doing work or will Blaine be lending a hand? Looks like the only victim will be your wallet your doing this Jeep a favor.
No, I'll be doing most of the work with some help from my son-in-law.
I also eventually want to install some rocker guards, Metal Cloak fenders,
the winch off the CJ7, and a rear bumper/tire carrier.
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Old 05-15-2011, 08:21 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Cool. I really wished that an LJ but I had already bought my TJ shortly before they came out. I take it your going to use the Currie SA? Ive been running SA on my TJ for about 6 years never had any issues and it does quite well offroad.
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Old 05-15-2011, 09:58 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Man I see stock LJ's all the time, makes me want to buy another and just leave it that way, kinda like a baby brother to mine.

Just my comments/suggestions......

If your only going to run 35"s why don't you wait for the Savvy/Currie 3" suspension to come out?

Also if only 35"s why a RJ rear? I just ordered my RJ rear with plans to move to 40"s. I have run 37"s on a built HP D44 front and a built 8.8. for about 1.5 years now and it works great. I would just truss your D44 rear, get this Superior 44kit gears, locker and run the piss out of it. Same with the 30 front.

Now if you have plans to go 37"s or bigger I understand. And Just FYI I have 5.13's with 37's with the 6spd and it is geared perfect.

Skip the AEV TT, and Gerald will hook you up with all your skids/armor/suspension just call him and tell him what you want.

I'm not telling you NOT to do it your way, because it will work fine. But there will be A LOT of "little" things you will need to do to make it all work together.

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Pic of my LJ...

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Old 05-15-2011, 10:02 AM   #6 (permalink)
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only 35"s?...

with that savvy 4" you could go with 37"s easy... especially with a 44 front and 60 rear. or you could do the 3". stick with 35"s and run your 44/30 combo until you feel like getting serious.

to bad you're not waiting for the savvy 6spd under armor... maybe you could take it over to blaine's so he can prototype on you
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Old 05-15-2011, 10:17 AM   #7 (permalink)
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to bad you're not waiting for the savvy 6spd under armor... maybe you could take it over to blaine's so he can prototype on you
Why wait
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Old 05-15-2011, 10:46 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Yeah, I'm not sure I get the reason for the RockJock rear with 35s, unless you want the hi-pinion, but if it already comes with a 44 rear, I would put that money into a RJ 60 or something for the front, instead of a Rubicon LP44 up there.
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Old 05-15-2011, 12:10 PM   #9 (permalink)
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No, I'll be doing most of the work with some help from my son-in-law.
I also eventually want to install some rocker guards, Metal Cloak fenders,
the winch off the CJ7, and a rear bumper/tire carrier.
When you get ready, talk to me about brakes. You will need them. I can do anything your budget can handle and make it all bolt on for the most part.
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Old 05-15-2011, 04:47 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Oh I am sure that Gary has a pretty good idea of how to build a jeep and where his will eventually end up.
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Old 05-15-2011, 06:20 PM   #11 (permalink)
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It's 35" tires for now, but I'll probably go bigger (37") in the future, so that's why
I'm going with the Rock Jock 60 in the rear. For now I'm keeping the stock fenders
and flares, but in the future I plan on the Metal Cloak Highline front and rear fenders,
then it'll be 37" tires.
The rock buggy in the garage is appx. 85% complete and we'll use that for the
places like the Hammers and keep the LJ as a street friendly Jeep for the miler stuff
that requires highway travel as part of the trip.
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Old 05-15-2011, 07:47 PM   #12 (permalink)
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be that way
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Old 05-26-2011, 07:11 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Look what followed me home this evening.
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Old 05-26-2011, 07:16 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Look what followed me home this evening.
Nice!
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Old 05-26-2011, 08:20 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Are those G2 built Currie RJs?
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Old 05-27-2011, 06:21 AM   #16 (permalink)
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I absolutely hate it when pesky little critters like that follow me home
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Old 05-27-2011, 07:37 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Are those G2 built Currie RJs?
Yup, both are built by G2. The rear is a Currie RJ60 and the front is a D44.
Rear has 35 spline chromos, 4.88's and a detroit. The front has 30 spline
chromos, 4.88's and a detroit.
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Old 05-27-2011, 08:02 AM   #18 (permalink)
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My question is why a D44 front and D60 rear? I see quite a few people do them, but If I was running a 60 rear you can be sure I would want an equally stout axle up front........

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Old 05-27-2011, 08:28 AM   #19 (permalink)
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My question is why a D44 front and D60 rear? I see quite a few people do them, but If I was running a 60 rear you can be sure I would want an equally stout axle up front........
A simple answer ........................ BIG $$$$$$$$$

A RJ60 front axle is twice as much as a D44 front and not needed for running 37" max. tire size.
A D44 front with chromos will survive just fine in that application.
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Old 05-27-2011, 08:30 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Yup, both are built by G2. The rear is a Currie RJ60 and the front is a D44.
Rear has 35 spline chromos, 4.88's and a detroit. The front has 30 spline
chromos, 4.88's and a detroit.
Cool. I used to enjoy rolling through Ramona on my way to Tustin when I lived in Yuma. Youll have a nicely built LJ.
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Old 05-27-2011, 08:47 AM   #21 (permalink)
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SanDiegoCJ,
Looks like a plan.. And christmas came early too..!
Since you already have a buggy, I think the 35's make total sense for now at least, And those 4.88's will give you movement up to 37's as well.
I'll be watching this closely as I'll be posting my build up in the next month or two.. So for now.. Jealous as hell.
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Old 05-27-2011, 09:10 AM   #22 (permalink)
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My question is why a D44 front and D60 rear? I see quite a few people do them, but If I was running a 60 rear you can be sure I would want an equally stout axle up front........
Because he will break the HP60 ring gear before the front 44

Nice build. You have plans for some Savvy parts. Why not go with their skid plate assy? Nice and light and covers from the motor back.
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Old 05-27-2011, 10:42 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Because he will break the HP60 ring gear before the front 44

Nice build. You have plans for some Savvy parts. Why not go with their skid plate assy? Nice and light and covers from the motor back.
The Savvy skid is nice, but they only list one for an auto trans and I have a 6sp manual, plus the Savvy skid is about twice the $$$$ of the AEV/Nth one.
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Old 05-27-2011, 05:13 PM   #24 (permalink)
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So, after some thought today I decided that I'd really like to have the ability
to not have the frontend turn all the time so I pulled the trigger in the SpynTec
selectable hub conversion from Solid Axle. I got a good deal through Poly Performance.

http://www.solidaxle.com/productcart...&idcategory=17
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Old 05-28-2011, 08:52 AM   #25 (permalink)
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The Savvy skid is nice, but they only list one for an auto trans and I have a 6sp manual, plus the Savvy skid is about twice the $$$$ of the AEV/Nth one.
It's available for the 6 speed.

As far as twice the money goes, do some research. The belly skid alone on the AEV skid alone weighs 90 lbs. {I've removed several to install the U/A}

Our skid that goes from the front of the oil pan to behind the t-case is 1/4" 6061-T6 and weighs less than a third of that.

Plus, we include a stand alone bolt in crossmember that could allow you to drive your rig with ever single bit of the skid removed, or you can drop either or both wings to access stuff should you need to work on anything.

Not that it matters for the Anti-BL crowd, but also included is the Motor mount lift, skirted body lift, front support, rear reinforcement, transmission mount, and a new exhaust hanger support bracket. Or put another way, buy it, bolt it on and be done.
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