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Old 07-01-2011, 01:17 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Pre-build ?s (yes ive used the search function)

Hi yes I am a Newb! (we all have to start somewhere)

Hey guys I have been searching and reading some awesome builds and admiring some amazing craftsmenship on this site, all the while being entertained and gaining some knowledge along the way. I have a 99 Cherokee Sport 4.0 auto 242 transfer case, 6 inch short arm with drop brackets and blocks in the rear. (reason for suspension change) didnt know any better at the time

Parking lot flexin lol


I am going to be doing my first full width axle swap using a 78 ford hp d44 and d60 rear. I want to do it right the first time around. I want this to be fabrication not failbrication.

At the same time as the axle swap I am going to do a 3 link front and 4 link rear. My question is on the front axle, is the ruffstuff 3 link kit a good option to start with? I know no matter what way I go its not going to be "cheap" but if I can build off a pretty comprehensive kit it could save some in the end.
With their sale this weekend including free dom links it looks to me like a good deal, maybe im wrong

Any info would be apreciated. And deserving of a beer if we ever meet!

P.S. If anyone must flame go for it I dont get butt hurt by internet balls with no useful info.

Thanks,
Mike
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Old 07-01-2011, 03:09 PM   #2 (permalink)
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i don't know about the ruff stuff kit. but i used the polyperformance rear kit on my yj and everything went together great. i think they are pretty much the same brackets. i changed some of the stuff to better fit my needs though but i guess there's alot of people that do that.
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Old 07-01-2011, 04:07 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I know what you mean. I will more than likely need to modify to fit just the way i want.

i want to push the axle forward a couple inches so i think ill need the offset bracket for the panhard bar. anyone have experience with that on an xj?

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Old 07-01-2011, 04:45 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Not nessicary to adjust the panhard mount. I stretched my front 2" and the the panhard stayed in the same location.

Lots of guys in the Cherokee section have strectched the front without mods. You would think its needed to adjust some stuff but its really not an issue at all.
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Old 07-01-2011, 06:47 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Even with a bridge over the pumpkin for the top link mount?

(searching for a stretched 3 link pic for reference)

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Old 07-02-2011, 06:23 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Is there any disadvantages to running heims on both ends of the link, instead of heims on one end and jj's on the other?
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Old 07-02-2011, 11:08 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Is there any disadvantages to running heims on both ends of the link, instead of heims on one end and jj's on the other?
If you run jonny joints or bushings on the frame side it will help with noise and vibration. Also the heim joint will last longer because the bushing or jj's help take direct hard impact off of the heim race.
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Old 07-03-2011, 06:43 PM   #8 (permalink)
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does left or right hand thread axle or frame side matter ? or just make sure all the links are set up the same?(not length just l or r thread)
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Old 07-04-2011, 09:00 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I wont be using the hp44 or matching 60 rear, I got a matching set of 79 ford 60s for a steal
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Old 07-04-2011, 07:07 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Happy 4th to everyone!
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Old 07-05-2011, 07:21 AM   #11 (permalink)
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does left or right hand thread axle or frame side matter ? or just make sure all the links are set up the same?(not length just l or r thread)
Does not matter
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Old 07-05-2011, 09:01 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Garettk
thanks for the info!

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Old 07-06-2011, 11:13 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I have been searching to find xjs with air shocks or ORI's anybody have experience with these on a XJ? I really like the idea of ORI's because I could eliminate sway bars and bump stops completely which would be nice. Im also going to be keeping the COG as low as I can and be able to have some uptravel with 37"s. Im not worried about cutting sheet metal away and making new inner wheel wells for clearance.

I've found 2 builds but it looks like both are held up at the moment and one is a wicked buggy "xj" http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1014366

but thats all I can find at the moment on it.

Ive searched and searched and found tons of info on clocking a 231 but not a 242?

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Old 07-06-2011, 03:14 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrokeBrewKnow View Post
I have been searching to find xjs with air shocks or ORI's anybody have experience with these on a XJ? I really like the idea of ORI's because I could eliminate sway bars and bump stops completely which would be nice. Im also going to be keeping the COG as low as I can and be able to have some uptravel with 37"s. Im not worried about cutting sheet metal away and making new inner wheel wells for clearance.

I've found 2 builds but it looks like both are held up at the moment and one is a wicked buggy "xj" http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1014366

but thats all I can find at the moment on it.

Ive searched and searched and found tons of info on clocking a 231 but not a 242?
Tons of guys running both. You gotta open build threads and search tho. No one will just hand over the info.

Eliminating bump stops and sway bars is a bad mentalitly. Its more than likley you will need both.

And that build up is Justin's....same build is posted in our own cherokee forum.

As for clocking a 242....you need to wallow out a hole or 2 on the tranny. Look in the "Box4Rox thread for dumbass's" in the cherokee forum. Theres a few posts that reference drilling out tranny holes. Keep in mind you will have to completly reconfigure your shift linkage or shifting setup all together.
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Old 07-06-2011, 07:45 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Ive read through a bunch of buggy builds where guys are using ORIs and arent using sways or bump stop, since they have valving that creates a progressive type bumpstop internally. These guys are running everything from desert to crawling just trying to see it its applicable to the street?
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Old 07-07-2011, 12:31 AM   #16 (permalink)
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you're totally sure they aren't running air bumps? bumps are really important if you like your expensive shocks intact.
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Old 07-07-2011, 09:14 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I have been searching to find xjs with air shocks or ORI's anybody have experience with these on a XJ?
Here is a link to a brief build-up description of Fox air shocks I put on a customer's XJ. http://www.dirt-fab.com/BilletClampcom-XJ_ep_43.html

Personally, I am more of a fan of coil-overs vs. air shocks on full-bodied relatively heavy rigs. Even with ORI's, you should have some sort of bump stop- even if it is a small rubber bumper or urethane bump. Yes, you can build in "bump" with tuning ORI's and triple bypass shocks, but that assumes they are mounted and tuned perfectly so that at full compression nothing crashes. It is always a good idea to have some sort of bump pads to prevent components from crashing at full compression.
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Old 07-08-2011, 07:28 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Here is a link to a brief build-up description of Fox air shocks I put on a customer's XJ. http://www.dirt-fab.com/BilletClampcom-XJ_ep_43.html

Personally, I am more of a fan of coil-overs vs. air shocks on full-bodied relatively heavy rigs. Even with ORI's, you should have some sort of bump stop- even if it is a small rubber bumper or urethane bump. Yes, you can build in "bump" with tuning ORI's and triple bypass shocks, but that assumes they are mounted and tuned perfectly so that at full compression nothing crashes. It is always a good idea to have some sort of bump pads to prevent components from crashing at full compression.[/QUOTE]

Why do you prefer coilovers over air shocks on a heavier rig? is it because of being able to change springs and go with two or three springs to fine tune?

Last edited by BrokeBrewKnow; 07-08-2011 at 07:29 PM.
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Old 07-09-2011, 11:44 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Here is a link to a brief build-up description of Fox air shocks I put on a customer's XJ. http://www.dirt-fab.com/BilletClampcom-XJ_ep_43.html

Personally, I am more of a fan of coil-overs vs. air shocks on full-bodied relatively heavy rigs. Even with ORI's, you should have some sort of bump stop- even if it is a small rubber bumper or urethane bump. Yes, you can build in "bump" with tuning ORI's and triple bypass shocks, but that assumes they are mounted and tuned perfectly so that at full compression nothing crashes. It is always a good idea to have some sort of bump pads to prevent components from crashing at full compression.
The ORI bump is a separate hydraulic piston inside the strut. It is not affected by tuning the strut--it's a stand-along bump stop for the last 1" of stroke, and the strut goes into slow-down hydraulic damping about 5" before hitting the bump stop. But you can still run external bumps if you want more.
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Last edited by irb4ur; 07-09-2011 at 11:46 AM.
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Old 07-09-2011, 08:11 PM   #20 (permalink)
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im def leaning towards coils or ORI's. i have some time to research and get good info from people on here so i can get exactly what i want on there the first time.

Anybody have ruffstuff xj unibody stiffeners? I have a set on the way with their 3 link kit.
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Old 07-26-2011, 06:54 AM   #21 (permalink)
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I have run the ORIs hard with no bumpstops, limitstraps, and swaybars. They are easy to tune for most tuning.

Feel free to call me if you have any questions!!
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