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Old 07-05-2011, 08:25 PM   #1 (permalink)
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TJ Shortarm Question!?

I've got an 01' TJ and am looking into buying a short arm kit. This vehicle is my daily driver, but I do some wheeling on the side. I'm on somewhat of a budget and looking to pay no more than 2k. Ideally I'd like to run between 4-4.5 inches of lift on 35's. Based on my needs and economically, what are some of the best kits for the money?
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Old 07-05-2011, 08:31 PM   #2 (permalink)
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RE used to be, not sure now. 4.5's ride pretty bad on shortarms
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Old 07-05-2011, 08:47 PM   #3 (permalink)
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The short arm is rough. I had one from Fabtek it worked well offroad, flexed well but I just built a long arm for the front and it is so much of a better ride on the road. I have 35's and they rub a bit with a 4" lift you may like an additional 1" body lift. 33x12.50's worked great with 4" though.
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Old 07-05-2011, 08:52 PM   #4 (permalink)
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my old rubicon express 3.5" short arm kit worked well. do you have gears or lockers yet? my old kit was good, and I love my new long arm kit, but the best money I have put in my rig is gearing and lockers.

I'm running roughly 3" lift and 35's now with my new fenders... a mild build by pirate standards.
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Old 07-05-2011, 08:53 PM   #5 (permalink)
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if looking under 2k why not try and get a bolt in long arm? they ride much better.but i have installed jks short arm stuff very nice and beefy i did a "budget" install for a guy upper and lowers front and rear,adj trackbars front and rear,disconnects and rockcrawler 4.5" springs rode really decent for a short arm kit
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Old 07-06-2011, 07:00 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Replied to your PM buddy. Hit me up.
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Old 07-06-2011, 08:38 AM   #7 (permalink)
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when I started out buildign my rig, I ignored a really good piece of advice that I got from alot of people...

do it once, do it right.

get a long-arm lift up front.
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Old 07-06-2011, 08:54 AM   #8 (permalink)
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So much misinformation......

Someone please explain to me what a full-bodied TJ on 35's will gain from longer arms, especially the shitty bolt-on kits that just provide you with longer arms at the expense of geometry.

Specifically, what would longer arms do for me over this:









90% AS, neutral roll oversteer, and it flat out works kick-ass all while not dragging over anything but the biggest rocks.

I agree with do it right. You can do short arms, mid arms, long arms, midget arms, what have you RIGHT or WRONG. Settling for a bolt-on long arm POS is the wrong way, especially when you won't gain a thing over a properly setup short arm suspension, including ride quality. Similarly, settling for a junky RC 4" short arm will also provide you with junk in every category.

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Old 07-06-2011, 09:26 AM   #9 (permalink)
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So much misinformation......

Someone please explain to me what a full-bodied TJ on 35's will gain from longer arms, especially the shitty bolt-on kits that just provide you with longer arms at the expense of geometry.

Specifically, what would longer arms do for me over this:









90% AS, neutral roll oversteer, and it flat out works kick-ass all while not dragging over anything but the biggest rocks.

I agree with do it right. You can do short arms, mid arms, long arms, midget arms, what have you RIGHT or WRONG. Settling for a bolt-on long arm POS is the wrong way, especially when you won't gain a thing over a properly setup short arm suspension, including ride quality. Similarly, settling for a junky RC 4" short arm will also provide you with junk in every category.
Nice photos and all but he said he only had $2,000.00 and wanted a daily driver and didn't say if he had the abilities of doing the building on his own. Either way you should know that short arms are more rough on the road and that is what he was asking. Even radius arms up front would be a great choice for the street and offroad and still use shorts in the back for the street ability.
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Old 07-06-2011, 09:45 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Nice photos and all but he said he only had $2,000.00 and wanted a daily driver and didn't say if he had the abilities of doing the building on his own. Either way you should know that short arms are more rough on the road and that is what he was asking. Even radius arms up front would be a great choice for the street and offroad and still use shorts in the back for the street ability.
Thanks. You can do that with under $2k...yes, some work needs to be done. You really won't get a good suspension without doing some welding, that's pretty well-known. Relying on the OEM brackets is a poor way to go once you're past OEM height and OEM terrain. Let me ask you this....if short arms are "more rough" then why does my rig ride better overall than two of my friends who use TNT's long arm kit, one of them on an LJ? Better dampening, no squeaks or clunks unlike the summit machine joints that TNT uses, and absolutely zero drama. Ever. And it's my DD.

I've done LOTS of comparisons and have done LOTS of work on different rigs. I know what works and what doesn't. Arm length is not nearly as large of a factor in ride quality as most think. Additionally, you're better off with a good short arm front setup with OEM mounts than an aftermarket radius arm setup. OP, if you want bolt-on and bolt-on only, just go with the full Currie kit. It's been proven time and time again and given all else equal, will perform better on and off the road than a bolt-on long arm kit that, once again, sacrifices proper geometry and clearance for longer arms alone.
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Old 07-06-2011, 09:48 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Nice photos and all but he said he only had $2,000.00 and wanted a daily driver and didn't say if he had the abilities of doing the building on his own. Either way you should know that short arms are more rough on the road and that is what he was asking. Even radius arms up front would be a great choice for the street and offroad and still use shorts in the back for the street ability.
Not in my experience
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Old 07-06-2011, 10:55 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Check on the Superlift Rockrunner system. It uses Shortarm lowering brackets that get the short arms back clost to normal geometry. While useing 4 or 5" springs. You can also get the revolving short arms to eliminate binding. Rides good onroad. Works well offroad. Used the setup on a stretched TJ about 6 years ago, running a SBC v-8 and 1-tons. Went everywhere the longarms went. For less money.
Just a thought.
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Old 07-06-2011, 12:38 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Check on the Superlift Rockrunner system. It uses Shortarm lowering brackets that get the short arms back clost to normal geometry. While useing 4 or 5" springs. You can also get the revolving short arms to eliminate binding. Rides good onroad. Works well offroad. Used the setup on a stretched TJ about 6 years ago, running a SBC v-8 and 1-tons. Went everywhere the longarms went. For less money.
Just a thought.
You're recommending crappy joints, terrible clearance, and generally half-ass parts....skyjacker is called Skycrapper for a reason.
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Old 07-06-2011, 01:05 PM   #14 (permalink)
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You're recommending crappy joints, terrible clearance, and generally half-ass parts....skyjacker is called Skycrapper for a reason.
Superlift is not skyjacker?
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Old 07-06-2011, 01:18 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I would like to know more about Superlift if anyone has experience with it?

Also I've heard great things from this Currie Suspension system: http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...t.aspx?id=1238

Let me know what you think, I really appreciate everyone's input thus far
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Old 07-06-2011, 02:15 PM   #16 (permalink)
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i guess the question is are you mainly looking for a bolt in setup or are you willing to fab?
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Old 07-06-2011, 03:36 PM   #17 (permalink)
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i guess the question is are you mainly looking for a bolt in setup or are you willing to fab?
Either is fine, fab or bolt. My dad and I plan on putting the lift on ourselves I should have specified in the original post.
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Old 07-06-2011, 04:48 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I run a 3in bds lift with a jks 1.25 bl and rokmen short arms. Running 35in tires. It was my DD for a long till I just picked up a cheap car. Drives great on road and off road. I bought the car to save on gas, thats it. I would DD it again if I had to. If you go short arms make sure it stays low and you should be fine. Just use quality parts.
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Old 07-06-2011, 05:43 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Superlift is not skyjacker?
That's my bad. I view them both in the same light. Both bring the huge suck.
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Old 07-06-2011, 07:16 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I vote for fabbing a mid arm if you're never gonna go larger than 37s and a long arm if you plan on going bigger than 37s. Use high clearance mounts from Poly Performance and a high clearance skid. You can also fab these youself.
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Old 07-06-2011, 07:54 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I vote for fabbing a mid arm if you're never gonna go larger than 37s and a long arm if you plan on going bigger than 37s. Use high clearance mounts from Poly Performance and a high clearance skid. You can also fab these youself.

No matter the tire size, IMO there is no reason to go with long arms under the TJ body. Too much shit in the way to get the geometry right and have good travel.
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Old 07-06-2011, 08:26 PM   #22 (permalink)
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um the clayton kit outperforms short arms on my buddies tj he had full adjustable short arms and his long arms way outperform his old setup.everyone has thier opinion but i have seen many clayton kits work with no issues.
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Old 07-06-2011, 08:39 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I'm with imped.

If you want good short arms get something with Johnny Joints. Currie or Rokmen. If you dont want to to fab anything run Currie trackbars front and rear. Good set of springs will go a long way too. AEV, Currie, BDS, OME.

There is a damn good set-up for the non-hardcore Jeeper, IMO.
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Old 07-06-2011, 08:51 PM   #24 (permalink)
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I'm with imped.

If you want good short arms get something with Johnny Joints. Currie or Rokmen. If you dont want to to fab anything run Currie trackbars front and rear. Good set of springs will go a long way too. AEV, Currie, BDS, OME.

There is a damn good set-up for the non-hardcore Jeeper, IMO.
I really like what I've read about Currie, everyone seems to be on board with the company and there products seem to be top notch.
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Old 07-06-2011, 10:27 PM   #25 (permalink)
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No matter the tire size, IMO there is no reason to go with long arms under the TJ body. Too much shit in the way to get the geometry right and have good travel.
I meant more along the lines of 24-30" depending on his tire size. Plenty of guys running 30" arms on one tons and they seem to fit well with good travel.
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