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Old 11-17-2011, 07:26 PM   #226 (permalink)
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Quote:
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It is interesting on the Pewe GPW that his fender opening is so large. I am kinda wondering if he did anything to the factory tool box? I swear mine didn't have that much room stock....
From what I understand that is basically what shape his tires beat the body into. If you look you can see the outline of the tool box.

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Old 11-17-2011, 10:37 PM   #227 (permalink)
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Rick Pewe's Flatty needs it's own Facebook page... then I can friend it... but seriously though... when is the Rick Pewe flatfender making a comeback?
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Old 11-18-2011, 04:27 AM   #228 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Rick Pewe's Flatty needs it's own Facebook page... then I can friend it... but seriously though... when is the Rick Pewe flatfender making a comeback?
His GPW is sitting in his backyard under a green tarp
He has plans to make it run again, but having the UA17 and the M38A1 ready to go, I guess is difficult to have the motivation.
I know, the pic with both of us in the Flatty is a little , but I need to have it
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Old 11-18-2011, 04:42 AM   #229 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mieser View Post

It is interesting on the Pewe GPW that his fender opening is so large. I am kinda wondering if he did anything to the factory tool box? I swear mine didn't have that much room stock....
I cut the bottom of both tool box...not a big deal.
They are still usable, but I had to remove the lids because of the cage. Now they serve as open compartments to store small things.
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Old 11-18-2011, 07:15 AM   #230 (permalink)
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My tool boxes now have plenty of room

The old school flat fenders of Rick Pewe, Ned Bacon, Jimmy Nylund, Soni Honegger, and others are the major reason I decided to rebuild mine.

I think the old school iron is making a comeback on some levels. I hope it continues to grow. I hope the information I have posted and will be posting will help that trend even more. If you get the frame price down to around $500 in materials I think a LOT more people are going to be building them from scratch! I wish the tubs where a little cheaper, but I guess for a NEW tub they are not priced THAT bad. I think its more than possible to build a new flat fender for the price of a side by side like an RZR. Seeing more flat fenders would be way cooler than more side by sides I think!
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Old 11-18-2011, 07:20 AM   #231 (permalink)
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I agree! I have a stretched and mangled tub, a 302/435(need t-case) a set of axles out of a TJ, and dreams! I had a dana 300 behind the 435, thinking an np208 will fit my needs as it will be bolt in and have fixed yokes.

I am itching to get started on mine, just have to make it through the holidays and gymnastics season with the kids first.
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Old 11-18-2011, 08:46 AM   #232 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mieser View Post
My tool boxes now have plenty of room

The old school flat fenders of Rick Pewe, Ned Bacon, Jimmy Nylund, Soni Honegger, and others are the major reason I decided to rebuild mine.

I think the old school iron is making a comeback on some levels. I hope it continues to grow. I hope the information I have posted and will be posting will help that trend even more. If you get the frame price down to around $500 in materials I think a LOT more people are going to be building them from scratch! I wish the tubs where a little cheaper, but I guess for a NEW tub they are not priced THAT bad. I think its more than possible to build a new flat fender for the price of a side by side like an RZR. Seeing more flat fenders would be way cooler than more side by sides I think!
I agree with you.
Actually I sold my TJ in order to build the MB...talking about going "backwards"

This was my TJ
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Old 11-18-2011, 01:22 PM   #233 (permalink)
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I think the old school iron is making a comeback on some levels. I hope it continues to grow. I hope the information I have posted and will be posting will help that trend even more. If you get the frame price down to around $500 in materials I think a LOT more people are going to be building them from scratch! I wish the tubs where a little cheaper, but I guess for a NEW tub they are not priced THAT bad. I think its more than possible to build a new flat fender for the price of a side by side like an RZR. Seeing more flat fenders would be way cooler than more side by sides I think!
def.
i have been slowly acquiring my parts and pieces, stalking the build threads on here. have had every other kind of Jeep and the flat fender just makes so much more sense. being out here on the east coast my cheap tub pick up is a mess but the simplicity of the willys tub makes it so simple to resurrect. keep the tub the original rim geometry.

great work on your build!
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Old 11-18-2011, 10:43 PM   #234 (permalink)
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I know, the pic with both of us in the Flatty is a little , but I need to have it
That's ok any jeep with a chrome grill is a little . Did you polish it up to a bright shine while you were there?
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Old 11-19-2011, 02:00 PM   #235 (permalink)
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Quote:
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My tool boxes now have plenty of room

The old school flat fenders of Rick Pewe, Ned Bacon, Jimmy Nylund, Soni Honegger, and others are the major reason I decided to rebuild mine.
Don't forget Cappa's Jeep on that list...the picture of him driving on the highway on the way home from the first UA (I think) in the rain is one of my all-time favorites.
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Old 11-19-2011, 06:39 PM   #236 (permalink)
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It was a good day....but a long one.

The 2nd tub is welded inside and out. I still have to do a little work in the tool box area on both, but they are not going anywhere!



I did a 1.75x1.75, .120 wall sleeve in the bottom of the front bumper. This is to add a little bit more beef with the .120 wall main 2x4 material. I figure the front and bottom of the front bumper will see a fair bit of use over the next 30+ years or so. This should make the front bumper VERY strong, yet fairly light overall.



I also made some end caps for the front bumper. The end caps are recessed to allow an inside weld. I wanted a slightly different look....



There is another body mount crossmember in the rear tub area that I have needed to make for a bit now. Its just 1x2, .120 wall rectangular tubing with some metal sleeves pressed in for the body mounting bolts....



It goes under the rear floor about a foot from the rear bumper. It is basically inbetween the rear bumper and where the 'machine gun' crossmember is...



I also finally have all the parts cut for my high clearance u-bolt skidplates. I also ordered custom u-bolts all around a week or so back. This should provide a nice little clearance gain over the old spring plates and THICK military springs. There will not be any u-bolt nuts hanging down to get snagged on anything anymore. Everything other than the diff will be above the bottom of the spring packs....



I also got the old master cylinder, clutch system, and pedal pack removed. I started test fitting the XJ pedal pack. It looks like it is going to work GREAT! It will require just a little bit of modification, but not much really. The top of the pedal assembly needs trimmed off a bit and a bracket added to tie the pedals into the dash area. I'm going to try and make a template for this if I can ever find a factory manual transmission XJ to get some information from....

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Old 11-22-2011, 07:48 AM   #237 (permalink)
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Not much progress. I did get most of the holes in the u-bolt plate parts drilled last night and started on the jig for welding. Hopefully my u-bolts show up soon too. I will probably try and weld up the plates in the next day or two.

I have a few other parts coming and should be able to roll the axles under in a week or so I hope!
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Old 11-22-2011, 03:04 PM   #238 (permalink)
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I need a favor. Can someone watching this thread with an XJ, or an XJ owning friend, measure the distance from the floor to the bottom of the brake pedal please?

I am trying to figure out how high I need to mount the pedal package in the tub to get a similar feel to the stock XJ pedal install.

Thanks.
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Old 11-22-2011, 03:08 PM   #239 (permalink)
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~5-3/8"

That's with a Husky Liner in the foot well. Measured from the rubber pad, not the steel.

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Old 11-22-2011, 03:19 PM   #240 (permalink)
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Close enough! Thank you very much.
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Old 11-22-2011, 06:00 PM   #241 (permalink)
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I made some u-bolt spring plates.....



Here is the little jig I made for 3 of the 4 plates I need. I will have to drill another pattern for the odd plate on the differential side in front.



U-bolt plate on the jig. There is a small aluminum puck in the middle that holds the bottom plate at the right height and has a step in it for the 5/8" hole in the bottom. Once you put tension on all the bolts nothing moves. I tacked 4 corners first, then welded two passes on each side. I think it will be enough it won't fall apart for at least a few days.



It fit just great on the spring. There is a little bit of clearance, but only about .060 or so. The springs where not all identical so I didn't want to make them too tight....

The 2nd one is cooling in the garage right now. I let them go back to room temp before pulling off the jig. Now I am off to do the 3rd one. I will probably get the 4th done tomorrow after I drill the other pattern in the jig plate. It runs a larger u-bolt on one end.
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Old 11-22-2011, 07:25 PM   #242 (permalink)
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Spring plates look good.
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Old 11-22-2011, 07:28 PM   #243 (permalink)
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I just know I have seen those somewhere else....
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Old 11-23-2011, 09:38 AM   #244 (permalink)
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I should have made a jig years ago. I have built 4 or 5 pairs over the last few years and it would have made things so much easier.
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Old 11-23-2011, 09:46 AM   #245 (permalink)
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Yup, the jig makes it SOOOOO easy. You have to be a little careful drilling the parts BEFORE you weld them, but they all came out within about .040" of each other. Only one of the three was a little tight on the spring.

I will put the other pattern for the D30 diff side with the larger u-bolt in this plate too.

Having a thick plate like this around is pretty handy for making jigs when you don't want to weld or drill on the fab table. For making the jigs I use the paper transfer method. I design the part in Solidworks, make a drawing of the pattern I need with the hole centers indicated, then just print the pattern out on the printer. Then just tape the paper pattern down and center punch the hole locations. As long as you take your time on the center punching this seems to get about .030" resolution on hole location.
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Old 11-24-2011, 07:54 AM   #246 (permalink)
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bevel the front edge a little. i been stuck more than once because of a flat front face on those kinda plates. the right kind of square edge on a rock can stop you in a bad place
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if you don't roll it over once in a while you aren't trying hard enough
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Old 11-28-2011, 06:49 PM   #247 (permalink)
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Not much of an update, but an update....



I got the 4th u-bolt plate done, the odd one. I used a 3.5" u-bolt for the 'wide' side. It worked out fairly well. I ended up having to trim one of the webs on the center section down just a bit to fit. I have been contemplating welding a 3.5" radius shim under the u-bolt in the diff to get it to seat better?



I also measured up the bolt pattern for the steering box. I'm pretty sure the bolts are 7/16-14 (?). I am going to transfer this pattern over to the computer and make a print out template. I think that will help people.

NOTE! These measurements are from the OUTSIDE to OUTSIDE on a .430 dia bolt. NOT center to center!



I need to figure out a way to make a way to mount these original USMC tow hooks in the front frame rails. I think I can still slip in a tapped plate or something from the open 'kick' in the frame before I cap it off.





I then clamped the steering box to the frame with some long bolts just to see where stuff might end up. This 'stretched' front frame isn't THAT stretched! The box is still a fairly tight fit I think....



I ran a high tech broom stick steering shaft simulator down from the hole in the firewall. This is how close I get from a straight shot from the steering column hole at the firewall to the steering box. It hits on the exhaust manifold. With the real steering column being more angled and longer this problem should go away. I'm still not sure what I am going to do for the steering column. I feel with the lowered seats the column angle is going to need to be a lot flatter? I have some room to work with, but not much!



The front axle is just about ready to go in for mock up! I was pretty impressed that even with the weight of the tub,engine, transmission, and transfer case the jig rod and spreader still just came right out of the front spring hangers without any binding!
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Old 11-28-2011, 07:08 PM   #248 (permalink)
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on my steering box, I just marked the top of the frame where your first bolt is and notched the frame for the bolt tubing. Once I welded that on up, I did the second one and so on.


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I got my steering box mounted (I stole the mount idea from Svaras steering box). My steering box is from a 1997 s10 pickup. The pitman arm is from a wagoneer. I also made my tie rod and drag length, today (1.5"x.25 dom with 1 ton chevy tre's). My high steer arms are made by the guy who builds them for sky manufacturing. He sells them on ebay for a good price. I left the drag link / pitman arm joint a little high thinking once I get more weight on the front of the rig and the springs start to sag, it will level out.





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Old 11-28-2011, 07:17 PM   #249 (permalink)
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yup, that is basically what I will end up doing. I figured having a template for the steering box will help out some people.

I do want to make my mounting bolts flush at the outside of the frame. My tire is going to turn right into that area and I want something smooth for the tire to rub on instead of the bolt heads. I will probably use some thick wall tubing or solid round stock. Then bore the ends for a socket head cap screw or something else that can sit flush....
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Old 11-28-2011, 08:34 PM   #250 (permalink)
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I used 7/8" solid round and then center drilled it on my lathe.

I am going to run a 3/16 strap over them too.
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