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Old 10-22-2011, 09:54 AM   #126 (permalink)
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I figured I am going to need something to do this....



So I built this last night when I had a few hours in the shop....







It was almost free since I pulled all the metal out of the scrap bin at work. I did have to spend $10 on some small tubing and all thread to make a hinge.

And then I forgot to bring home more cardboard
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Old 10-22-2011, 01:28 PM   #127 (permalink)
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not quite a tite 90 but good. think of all the jeep parts you can get with the $$$ you saved buy not buying a factoy bender
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if you don't roll it over once in a while you aren't trying hard enough
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Old 10-22-2011, 04:55 PM   #128 (permalink)
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I think it will bend a 90 once I figure out what the heck I am doing. The pivot goes past 90 but about 5-10 degrees I think.
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Old 10-22-2011, 06:24 PM   #129 (permalink)
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i was talking about the bend corner point. turn your back stop over to back up your bender angle. maybe use a bolt welded to the backer with t handles under the table to clamp and release. the edge i think should be about .090 for the sheet to fit between the 2 angles points. i could be wrong, hell i haven't seen my bender in 2 months. looks like your on to something workable, i paid 600.00 for mine and its not much better than your freebee.
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if you don't roll it over once in a while you aren't trying hard enough
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Old 10-23-2011, 01:44 PM   #130 (permalink)
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I just got done with arts and crafts class....





That was fun....now to make it out of metal....

Note....it comes out in on piece with the shift lever removed.

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Old 10-23-2011, 03:46 PM   #131 (permalink)
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nice...
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Old 10-23-2011, 06:43 PM   #132 (permalink)
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Is it wrong that this build is like crack to me? I check at least three times a day for any updates.

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Old 10-23-2011, 07:09 PM   #133 (permalink)
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Its gonna be a little tough to make that with metal man. Alot of small triangles.....
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Old 10-23-2011, 10:14 PM   #134 (permalink)
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I have a few tricks up my sleeve for making it out of metal....

I removed the cardboard and tape crafts project and used it as a template for a bottom plate...



Then I bent the main floor plate in my free press. It seemed to work GREAT. The small bend radius seem to match the Willys floor very well.



Then I installed the main plate on the floor....



Then I built a wire frame using the cardboard model as a template. It didn't turn out 100% the same, but its pretty dang close.





Then just before I ran out of steam I got a few panels make and tacked on. The 3/16" round stock 'wire' frame seems to work great to provide a structure for welding on the plates. I make a masking tape template over the wire, cut it out, then transfer it to the sheet metal for cutting. This seemed to work really well for getting the correct shape. Its not super perfect, but it works for me. I will probably be working on the panels for a few days now. It does take a little time.....



Hopefully I will be able to wrap up the tunnel in the next few days, at least enough that any finish welding can be done out of the vehicle. I will eventually weld all the seams and sand them down a little bit to round all the edges.

After I finish up the tunnel I will be moving onto the front fender 'highline' and moving up the rear tubs. I have an order of small cuts of metal for a lot of other misc stuff on the frame. Seats are going to be ordered in about a week I think. I am sure the other metal work will keep be busy till the seats get in....then after they are mocked up in some mounts I can build the steering column, redo the pedal pack, etc.

Fun Fun.
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Old 10-25-2011, 07:13 AM   #135 (permalink)
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Micro update. I just got a few panels for the tunnel cut and tack welded in. I will have more time tonight.
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Old 10-25-2011, 09:50 AM   #136 (permalink)
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Are you just using a 4.5" cutoff wheel to cut out the sheet metal?
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Old 10-25-2011, 09:59 AM   #137 (permalink)
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I should have posted a little more detail on that.

All the 16 gauge sheet metal is getting cut with a jig saw with a metal cutting blade. It helps if you support the sheet as well as possible when cutting to keep vibrations to a minimum. Its cheap and works pretty dang well. I can cut out one of the patterns in just a few minutes....no real mess, no sparks flying everywhere. I dress the edges with a flap wheel to clean the small burr off.

I will try and make a 'how-to' post tonight how I get a pattern, transfer it, cut it, and tack it.
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Old 10-25-2011, 08:42 PM   #138 (permalink)
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Making the skins for the wire frame......

First you get some masking tape. I like the 3M basic stuff for this. It works really well.....sticky but not too sticky. Its light in color that whatever sharpy you have close at hand will show up.



Cover the area you want to skin with tape. I overlap it a big and put a few crosses in there too....



Then cut it off the frame with a box cutter or razor blade, try not to use your good pocket knife when your lose said box cutter or razor blade in the garage mess.....



Lay the pattern sticky side down on some metal. The pattern isn't so sticky that you can't align it pretty careful. Once you have it lined up you can press it down firmly. This makes a great cut template I think. I usually cut it out with a combination of a jig saw and my band saw depending on the size of the host piece of metal. These patterns seemed to REALLY use up the smaller sections of 'waste' material.



Once its cut out I hit the edges with a worn out flap disc.....



Test fit, trim or sand the edges for clearance if needed to tune the fit. I then usually tape it in place to hold it. Then I tack weld it down. If the panel isn't totally flat you can use some pressure to slightly bend the panel for a better alignment and tack weld.





I removed the tunnel once I got to the front panels. It was just too tight to weld them in the vehicle and under the dash. The wire held everything in place pretty dang well! I was able to pull it out in once piece still!

I probably have at least another night to get it skinned. I also need to rebend the shifters before I make the final top panel. Getting it over the transfer case levers will be more challenging. I need to make a access hole for the pin that holds those shifters in place I think? That way I can remove them before I pull the tunnel off. I could also make the top panel removeable....I might to that too.
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Old 10-25-2011, 09:55 PM   #139 (permalink)
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The cover is turning out great. I second the jigsaw method for sheet metal vs. the 4.5" grinder. Much more civil and clean.

I'm like a few of the other guys here and have to look at this thread every day. I love the concept of keeping the seats and, thus, the cage low and of keeping the entire jeep SUA.

I have to go ahead and ask for 'wheeling videos when you finish.
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Old 10-25-2011, 11:14 PM   #140 (permalink)
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looks good , I did basically the same thing as the cardboard model but I just covered the cardboard with clear packing tape and fiberglassed right over it , then ripped out the cardboard
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Old 10-26-2011, 06:15 AM   #141 (permalink)
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I would definitely make one or two of the panels removable. Weld in some 1/4,20 nuts to make the panels easy to remove for maintenance.

I will have a removable panel in the floor of mine to get to the bolts on the front driveshaft. Much easier than pulling the skidplate.
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Old 10-26-2011, 08:10 AM   #142 (permalink)
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The cover is turning out great. I second the jigsaw method for sheet metal vs. the 4.5" grinder. Much more civil and clean.

I'm like a few of the other guys here and have to look at this thread every day. I love the concept of keeping the seats and, thus, the cage low and of keeping the entire jeep SUA.

I have to go ahead and ask for 'wheeling videos when you finish.
Thank you. The jigsaw is the way to go for sure. I am cutting 16 gauge with it no problem. I also trim some of the smaller pieces on my HF 4x6 bandsaw in the vertical position.....that is WAY slick also. I love that saw!

Yup, its going to be low for sure. I'm shooting for wider than it is tall. With only 54" wide axles that is going to be harder than it sounds. I think its going to be almost stupid short when its done.

I will try and get some videos when its 'done'. The goal is EJS, so that should make for a decent video or two. At least the scenery will be good with the 86" wheelbase can't climb anything
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Old 10-26-2011, 08:12 AM   #143 (permalink)
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looks good , I did basically the same thing as the cardboard model but I just covered the cardboard with clear packing tape and fiberglassed right over it , then ripped out the cardboard
I thought about fiberglass, but it didn't seem 1942 enough. It probably would have been easier. I also generally suck at fiberglass however....
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Old 10-26-2011, 08:17 AM   #144 (permalink)
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I would definitely make one or two of the panels removable. Weld in some 1/4,20 nuts to make the panels easy to remove for maintenance.

I will have a removable panel in the floor of mine to get to the bolts on the front driveshaft. Much easier than pulling the skidplate.
That is probably a good idea. I think I will try and make the side panel removable by the front output and t-case shifters.

Hopefully I will still be able to pull the entire tunnel fairly easy. The seats will be on 'pinned' mounts so they should come out pretty easy. I might have to pull a seat mount bar or two. The gas pedal needs to have the throttle cables come off easy too probably so I can just leave it attached to the tunnel. The shift levers would then need to be pulled. MMMmmmm.
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Old 10-26-2011, 09:54 AM   #145 (permalink)
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mmmmmmmmmmm so many things to think about. nice work their right, this is better than doing drugs back in the 60's was
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if you don't roll it over once in a while you aren't trying hard enough
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Old 10-26-2011, 02:19 PM   #146 (permalink)
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Mieser, where are you at in Colorado? We end up in Montrose a couple times a month during the winter, I would love to see this thing in person!
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Old 10-26-2011, 02:35 PM   #147 (permalink)
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Durango
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Old 10-26-2011, 08:04 PM   #148 (permalink)
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The tunnel is pretty much done for now. I only have the top plate left and need to wait on that till the transfer case shifters get rebent. Hopefully I can do that this weekend.











I will probably mess with welding up the seams and sanding it down next. Hopefully this weekend I will be moving on to doing the 'highline' on the front fenders....
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Old 10-27-2011, 08:07 PM   #149 (permalink)
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Highline front fenders part one....



Mark the grill mount location. It will be moving forward 1 3/8" when you raise the fenders along the back angled edge/mounting surface. My mounts are not welded on yet, moving them is easy. If your doing this on a factory frame you may have to make new mounts.



Mark the fender where the grill will be located. A square works well for this. Make sure this mark doesn't come off or else you are going to have to guess.



Mark the leading edge of the fender where it bolts to the grill. All this is just getting moved up, but remember the shape of the leading edge is going to change. Mark down 2.75" from the lowest bend in the grill and work from there. It takes a little thinking to figure out where its all going to end up.



The bottom mounting hole should be welded up and that mounting hole moved to just above the location of the first bend in the leading edge. Drill this mounting hole by making two holes and connecting them with a dremel cut off wheel. If you do this BEFORE you cut the fender up its a LOT easier.



Now you need to cut the leading edge out and start to rework it. A hammer and a few scraps of metal work fine, or you can use some auto body tools.
You basically need to start to reposition the lowest bend in the grill.



Next you need to cut out the top of the fender where it mates to the grill. This area is just too thick to reshape easily. The profile changes enough I think its going to be easier to just replace it. You can see the new leading edge starting to form. Its the same angle as the old one, jut lower on the fender.



Before you can bolt the fender back on the rear mounting holes need to be relocated 3.0" down the same plane. You only have room to move the top two bolts.



Those two holes get drilled out to 1/2" dia.



This bracket on the MB grill for the marker light needs to be cut and bend down at a 90 degree angle. Take your time. I still need to tack weld the bracket to the flange on the bottom and maybe make a little tab to make it stronger again.



Now you can bolt up your fender in its new home using the two bolts on the rear of the fender and one bolt on the grill for a test fit! Its amazing what 2.75" more clearance looks like. Remember, the grill has to be pushed forward 1.38" at this point to get things to line up!
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Old 10-27-2011, 08:14 PM   #150 (permalink)
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great job detailing that out---chris
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