The Flyin Flattie: 1946 CJ2A - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum  

Go Back   Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum > Brand Specific Tech > Jeep - Willys
Notices

Reply
 
Share LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 03-06-2012, 06:23 PM   #1 (permalink)
Registered User
 
BeaverTown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Member # 132328
Location: Hemlock, MI
Posts: 183
The Flyin Slattie: '41 MB

So I wasn't going to start a build thread till I started the fabrication part of this build. Mieser talked me into starting this a little early since I have alot of decisions to make in the next few months. Fab should start sometime early this summer...

This all started in 2009 when a 46 showed up on Craigslist for $250. It all looked solid and I'd always wanted a flattie. Turns out you get what you pay for. The body was all 1/8" torch cut plate from the middle of the firewall back. Plenty strong but heavy and ugly as hell. Anyway I was in way over my head both ability and money wise. I was 6 months from graduating college, planning a wedding, and I already had a drag car.

Fast forward to today, many projects bought and sold later, and I have a very capable ZJ on 42's (bought, not built), no more significant other, and a garage that I can call my own. A recent trip that included some road miles in the ZJ provided me with the inspiration to get back on this. I want a rig that I can drive down a 55 mph road and actually go 55 mph.

So onto the plan and what's been done so far. I pretty much have my drivetrain squared away. I have a '90 TBI 4.3 out of an S10 (currently being rebuilt), a rebuilt SM-420, and am looking for a Dana 300. I also have the original T-90 (with a Buick V-6 bellhousing) and D-18, but I'll have those for sale soon since I won't be using them. My first big decision comes with axles. I have 3 ways that I can currently go with the parts that I already have. '85 Toy axles, front HP D-44 and 9", or front and rear HP D-44's. Tires are going to be 37's with no plans of going any bigger. I like the width of the toy axles and the easy access to cheap parts. This is the way that I'm currently leaning, but with the recent upcropping of fitment issues using pass. drop front axles I'm still considering doing the f+r 44's. I'd be using the Jana-54 kit and narrowing them to early bronco width.

The rest of the plan is 3 and 4 links with 12-14" travel air shocks, square tube frame, and highline fenders like Mieser's. Since I have to do something's different, it won't be OD Green but instead will be Sour Apple green metalic from Summit on another tub that I have yet to find. I'll be using the old tub to cut up for armor and as a mockup till I can source another tub. There will not be any stretching or comp cuts on this build.

On to the pictures:


The day that it came home. I also have the whole front end and windshield frame as well all of it useable.


I assembled it once just to see what it could look like.

Today the tub just sits behind the barn at my ex's house waiting to be picked up once the weather breaks. The axles and frame were sold.

For right now everything that is going on is drivetrain related. I want to get that squared away before I start anything else. I'll update this as I get things done and I hope to have it done by Snofari (a local event) next January but I doubt that will happen. I guess now that it's on Pirate I have to work on it!

Last edited by BeaverTown; 04-29-2013 at 06:10 PM.
BeaverTown is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-06-2012, 07:55 PM   #2 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Member # 213516
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 5
I'm planning a similar build. I'm looking at a 420 Trans with a 300. One of my concerns is the length of my rear drive shaft and drive angle. I forget if it was Herm the od guy or Novak that advised me but there's a large difference in the length of the 420\465 to Dana 18/20/300 adaptors. The shortest is the 465 to 18\20 adaptor being 7/8" if I remember correctly. I already bought the 300 so I知 probably going with it but I知 also going to stretch mine a bit, so I知 hoping that will make up for any major driveline angle. Like you, I want it to be drivable at highway speeds so I don't want any unnecessary vibrations. That said I don't know what angle a 420/300 combo will give with a stock wheelbase so it may not be an issue. Have you got to that point yet? If so, what plan have you come up with?
53m38 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Old 03-06-2012, 08:10 PM   #3 (permalink)
Registered User
 
BeaverTown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Member # 132328
Location: Hemlock, MI
Posts: 183
Quote:
Originally Posted by 53m38 View Post
I'm planning a similar build. I'm looking at a 420 Trans with a 300. One of my concerns is the length of my rear drive shaft and drive angle. I forget if it was Herm the od guy or Novak that advised me but there's a large difference in the length of the 420\465 to Dana 18/20/300 adaptors. The shortest is the 465 to 18\20 adaptor being 7/8" if I remember correctly. I already bought the 300 so I知 probably going with it but I知 also going to stretch mine a bit, so I知 hoping that will make up for any major driveline angle. Like you, I want it to be drivable at highway speeds so I don't want any unnecessary vibrations. That said I don't know what angle a 420/300 combo will give with a stock wheelbase so it may not be an issue. Have you got to that point yet? If so, what plan have you come up with?
I haven't gotten that far yet. My thinking is that a high pinion rear axle would probably cure all of our woes. The problem lies in the strength of a high pinion rear axle. Unfortunately a rear high pinion puts all the force on the coast side of the ring and pinion. With 37's and that low gear 4 speed I'm worried about tearing up ring and pinnions even if I upraded the dana 44 with the jana 54 kit.

I should probably rephrase that I'm not stretching the body. I will push the rear axle back 2-4" if I can without comp cutting. I'm shooting for a 88-90" wheelbase.
BeaverTown is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 03-06-2012, 08:59 PM   #4 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Member # 5326
Location: Southwest Colorado
Posts: 11,073
Sounds like a cool build.

If your dead set on using the SM420 I would think REALLY hard about running a drivers drop T-case! This will keep you from having a LOT of issue with starter, driveshaft, and axle clearance! It will also allow you to push the engine over to the passenger side away from the driver and into the pocket on the frame. Run the exhaust down the passenger side frame with the fuel and brake stuff on the drivers side....

I wouldn't worry too much about a set of D50 gears in a high pinion 44 housing in the rear. Even with 37s on a somewhat light flat fender you should be ok. Just don't drive like an ass! With the centered rear driveshaft, and it being higher than the D18 output your going to want a high pinion rear axle.

If you don't want to comp cut the back, with 37" tires you should probably plan on moving the rear axle back 2.5-3" with a 37-38" wheel opening on the tub. If you don't want to comp cut it and you don't want to stretch the tub your going to have to think long and hard about seats....how tall you are, what seats, how low you want to sit, etc. The stock tubs are just small.

Good luck on your project!
__________________
42 MB, 225, T18, big kid go cart with clown tires
92 Dodge W250 daily driver on 39s
Mieser is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-07-2012, 03:47 AM   #5 (permalink)
Registered User
 
BeaverTown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Member # 132328
Location: Hemlock, MI
Posts: 183
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mieser View Post
Sounds like a cool build.

If your dead set on using the SM420 I would think REALLY hard about running a drivers drop T-case! This will keep you from having a LOT of issue with starter, driveshaft, and axle clearance! It will also allow you to push the engine over to the passenger side away from the driver and into the pocket on the frame. Run the exhaust down the passenger side frame with the fuel and brake stuff on the drivers side....

I wouldn't worry too much about a set of D50 gears in a high pinion 44 housing in the rear. Even with 37s on a somewhat light flat fender you should be ok. Just don't drive like an ass! With the centered rear driveshaft, and it being higher than the D18 output your going to want a high pinion rear axle.

If you don't want to comp cut the back, with 37" tires you should probably plan on moving the rear axle back 2.5-3" with a 37-38" wheel opening on the tub. If you don't want to comp cut it and you don't want to stretch the tub your going to have to think long and hard about seats....how tall you are, what seats, how low you want to sit, etc. The stock tubs are just small.

Good luck on your project!
One question that I haven't seen answered is the oiling on a HP 44 in a rear application. I know that you can't use a yota hp third because it won't oil correctly and burn itself up. Since this will see some street miles this is something that I'm worried about.

As far as the passenger compartment, I'm 6'1" and fairly broad in the shoulders. For now I'm thinking Corbeau JP seats as I'm not a fan of low backs. The plan is to build my own wheel tubs and possibly move the step in the tub back a bit. The tank will move to either the bed area or under it depending on room. I'd like to be able to mount a battery and an air tank under the seats but I'll cross that bridge when I get there. I know that it'll be a bitch cramming all the stuff that goes in a wheeling rig in that tiny tub. I have some ideas that I think will be "unique" that I'll share when I get started on the fab work.
BeaverTown is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-07-2012, 09:47 AM   #6 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Member # 5326
Location: Southwest Colorado
Posts: 11,073
Factory ford D44 high pinion front axles had some kinda of 'slinger' on the ring gear bolts if I remember right. They also had a higher fill port on the diff cover too?

Flat fenders are small, pack light! It helps to think of them as 4 wheel'd motorcycles. That is about the amount of stuff you should take!
__________________
42 MB, 225, T18, big kid go cart with clown tires
92 Dodge W250 daily driver on 39s
Mieser is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-07-2012, 12:43 PM   #7 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Member # 18320
Location: Lake County
Posts: 1,328
It is not difficult to run an SM420 pass drop. People have been doing the swap for years without 2pc drive shafts.

One way to create more room is to outboard your front springs and run 44's out of a narrow track waggy or scout. That will move your diff over more creating more space. Center dump rear axles to match are plentiful.
elarsen is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-07-2012, 01:30 PM   #8 (permalink)
Registered User
 
BeaverTown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Member # 132328
Location: Hemlock, MI
Posts: 183
Quote:
Originally Posted by elarsen View Post
It is not difficult to run an SM420 pass drop. People have been doing the swap for years without 2pc drive shafts.

One way to create more room is to outboard your front springs and run 44's out of a narrow track waggy or scout. That will move your diff over more creating more space. Center dump rear axles to match are plentiful.
I'll be running a 3 link in the front with air shocks or coil overs so diff placement wouldn't be an issue. Except I want to keep this really low and balanced, I think if the diff were under the frame rail at all it would limit my uptravel to the point were the frame would sit on the diff at ride height.

Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk
BeaverTown is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-07-2012, 01:39 PM   #9 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Member # 5326
Location: Southwest Colorado
Posts: 11,073
Yup, if you want it to sit low and not get exotic with the frame the front diff needs to fall to the inside of the frame rail.

Both my axles can go all the way to the frame.....if the springs would go into that much negative arch

You can make the frame rails wider, but that opens up its own can of worms in regards to how the body fits on the frame.

If you want to keep the overall size down things get really small really fast!
__________________
42 MB, 225, T18, big kid go cart with clown tires
92 Dodge W250 daily driver on 39s
Mieser is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-07-2012, 03:02 PM   #10 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Member # 213516
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeaverTown View Post
I haven't gotten that far yet. My thinking is that a high pinion rear axle would probably cure all of our woes. The problem lies in the strength of a high pinion rear axle. Unfortunately a rear high pinion puts all the force on the coast side of the ring and pinion. With 37's and that low gear 4 speed I'm worried about tearing up ring and pinnions even if I upraded the dana 44 with the jana 54 kit.

I should probably rephrase that I'm not stretching the body. I will push the rear axle back 2-4" if I can without comp cutting. I'm shooting for a 88-90" wheelbase.
I'm on the same page with wheelbase. I'm hoping to move the rear axle back 6 inches. I'm thinking that will lessen the angle to a more highway friendly realm.
53m38 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-07-2012, 08:57 PM   #11 (permalink)
Registered User
 
BeaverTown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Member # 132328
Location: Hemlock, MI
Posts: 183
Quote:
Originally Posted by 53m38 View Post
I'm on the same page with wheelbase. I'm hoping to move the rear axle back 6 inches. I'm thinking that will lessen the angle to a more highway friendly realm.
It will for sure. I had thought about pricing getting a custom top made if I stretched the body. But I just like the dimensions and history of the original bodies too much. Plus my limited sheetmetal skills would probably make it look shitty.
BeaverTown is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-07-2012, 09:41 PM   #12 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Member # 5326
Location: Southwest Colorado
Posts: 11,073
The proportions on the original flat fender tub just look right. If you change it too much I think it 'ruins' the look of the original flat fender. I'm not saying that it might not work better in some areas, but I think the original tub looks pretty dang good.

On the rebuild of my MB I tried to only move things around a little bit. I didn't want to go to far in any one direction. I can see where stretching the body could make some things REALLY nice and potentially much easier, but I think with some clever tricks the standard flat fender body can be much improved upon while retaining the stock outside dimensions....

Honestly. I would love to build a 'new' tub from scratch with a pretty long list of small mods that could probably only be integrated into a tub built from scratch.
__________________
42 MB, 225, T18, big kid go cart with clown tires
92 Dodge W250 daily driver on 39s
Mieser is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-08-2012, 04:02 PM   #13 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Member # 213516
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeaverTown View Post
It will for sure. I had thought about pricing getting a custom top made if I stretched the body. But I just like the dimensions and history of the original bodies too much. Plus my limited sheetmetal skills would probably make it look shitty.
My tub is actually glass. My grandfather had bought it years ago. I definitely think if I attempted to stretch it I’d ruin the look for sure.
53m38 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-08-2012, 05:49 PM   #14 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Member # 31763
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 1,193
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mieser View Post
Honestly. I would love to build a 'new' tub from scratch with a pretty long list of small mods that could probably only be integrated into a tub built from scratch.
To hijack a little bit, what would those changes be?
craigellis77 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-08-2012, 07:59 PM   #15 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Member # 5326
Location: Southwest Colorado
Posts: 11,073
A friend and I where talking about this the other day....this was my initial list. Keep in mind this was WITH keeping the outside dimensions stock so you could be able to run a commercial soft top.


-LARGE rear wheel tubs. Move the tubs in to the outside edge of the
frame instead of hanging over. This would let you do shock mounts
outside the frame a lot easier. I don't think anyone really runs a
rear seat in a flat fender anymore. You could still do a single seat
for a baby or a kid pretty easy.

-Raise the tubs up like I did to just below the body lip.

-Eliminate the rear tool boxes, they are cool but a pain.

-Flat floor. It could be optimized to sit ON a stacked 2x4 tube frame.
That would gain a little depth in the rear. Or raise it up for more
fuel tank clearance.

-Optimize the slope of the front of the wheel tub for the seat angle.
Try and eliminate wasted space.

-try and move or change the angle of the rear step in the floor for
more seat clearance. 35" tires on mine is tight! The rear axle is back
approx 2" with a 36" wheel opening. If you want to run 35s I don't
know how much you can change that. You could probably go back another
1" on the axle and move the wheel opening back 1" also. This would
give you the ability to move the step in the floor back 1-1.5"
depending on the seam in that area...maybe 2" kinda like b4wscrambler
did.

-No 'bump' in the rear floor step like my MB tub. That would let you
move the seat around a little more.

-A perfect transmission tunnel. Basically a tight fitting totally pain
in the butt thing to make to cover your transmission transfer case of
choice. Again, b4wscrambler's looked really good. Like that, but maybe
in aluminum.

-What about pushing the firewall forward a bit? Keep the cowl the same
dimension, but just push the firewall out to the end of the tub and
get rid of the seam at the top of the firewall? This would gain you
about 1-2" of 'foot' room without having to change the overall tub
dimensions.

-Keep the dimple in the tub firewall and plan to offset the engine to
match that.

-Maybe shorten the dash top to bottom by about 1-2"? This would give
you much more 'shin' room

-Shovel and axe dents

And this was my friends added list...

-Can you remove or reduce the sloped/kickup on the floor. Make the firewall flat and the floor flat, bring the two out to meet. I think that + the firewall forward a few inches would get you a lot more useable pedal room. YOu might need some kickup, but I think the amount that is there stock, leaves you with wasted space? The only thing in that space on mine is the brake stuff and maybe the steering box, but that's a non issue with hanging pedals/saginaw.

-removeable gauge panel

-shift glove box over a touch for cage clearance

I can probably think of a few dozen more little ideas. The ideal tub is REALLY going to depend on the engine, trans, tcase, axle drop, stance, uptravel, and tire size...
__________________
42 MB, 225, T18, big kid go cart with clown tires
92 Dodge W250 daily driver on 39s
Mieser is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-09-2012, 03:55 AM   #16 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Member # 12152
Location: Alpena, Michigan
Posts: 1,666
The form-fit transmission tunnel is a neat idea...I wonder how well one could be made in fiberglass? Like lay cloth right over the trans and t-case, with a few foam spacers here and there, then glass over that?
__________________
'46 CJ-2A, '47 CJ-2A, '48 CJ-2A, '50 M38, '52 M38A1, '62 CJ-3B, '62 CJ-5, '65 CJ-5, (2) '66 CJ-5's, '67 CJ-5, '69 CJ-5, '69 J-3000, '70 CJ-101, '74 DJ-5, '74 CJ-5, '77 CJ-5, '78 CJ-5, '78 CJ-7, '78 Wagoneer, '95 YJ, '97 XJ...None of them run.
4Bangler is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-09-2012, 06:12 AM   #17 (permalink)
Master Tinkerer
 
oldtimingman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Member # 75774
Location: 409.3mi too far from the Loon Lake kiosk
Posts: 1,307
That laundry list of wishes is pretty close to about everything I'm finishing up in my tub build. I'll try and post some pics this weekend.
The floor and firewall matching isn't exactly possible depending what engine, drive train you have. I was able to extend the footwells some. Also made the firewall a little deeper for the distributor ( SBC)

I made the wheel wells as small as possible too. I have tons with stock H1s so they stick out some. (79.5 overall width). Made a huge amount of more storage room.

Mine is stretched to 90" WB. But with 39.5s it still all looks proportionately correct. That was a big thing for me. I wanted it to still look right.
oldtimingman is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-09-2012, 08:27 AM   #18 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Member # 5326
Location: Southwest Colorado
Posts: 11,073
Yeah, we are going to need build thread and some pics of that thing!
__________________
42 MB, 225, T18, big kid go cart with clown tires
92 Dodge W250 daily driver on 39s
Mieser is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-09-2012, 12:18 PM   #19 (permalink)
Registered User
 
BeaverTown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Member # 132328
Location: Hemlock, MI
Posts: 183
Yeah we for sure need to see that!

A lot of the ideas that I have are pretty standard stuff. The "unique" stuff I was speaking of I'm not sure if they'll work or not. I don't have an original tub to look at. I promise to share them as they work (or don't). For now they are just ideas.

I have decided that I'll be going high pinion 44's front and rear. Now I've got to decide if I want to go radius arms or retube the front to run a 3 link.

Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk
BeaverTown is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-09-2012, 12:42 PM   #20 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Member # 5326
Location: Southwest Colorado
Posts: 11,073
As long as you don't want to go overboard on the articulation ( 10-12" stroke shocks ) a radius arm system will work just fine. A radius arm system has some packaging advantages and can function as a form of sway-control if you get the right bushing setup.

If your going with a high pinion front, I'll say it again......DRIVERS DROP!

You should tell us some of your body ideas.....sharing now might save headaches later.

If you need any body measurements let me know. There are a few others on here that would be more than happy to get some measurements for you. Are you going to build your new tub from scratch?
__________________
42 MB, 225, T18, big kid go cart with clown tires
92 Dodge W250 daily driver on 39s
Mieser is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-09-2012, 05:03 PM   #21 (permalink)
Newbie
 
middayskulker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Member # 120092
Location: Occasionally, Kansas
Posts: 112
I would suggest wagoneer D44's, I have them on my '48 CJ-2 and they fit very well. They hold up to my 37" tires well too. I am actually changing mine from sprung over with 95" wheelbase to 4-link F/R with airshocks and 115ish so your plans are very interesting to me. I don't see any issues at all running a pass drop front axle, and since your going to make your own frame you can make adjustments to ensure everything will fit.

I'd stretch that bad boy to, I'm 6' 2" and even with 14" stretch theres not much leg room.
__________________
Build Thread -
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Last edited by middayskulker; 03-09-2012 at 05:08 PM. Reason: for more words
middayskulker is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-09-2012, 07:15 PM   #22 (permalink)
Registered User
 
BeaverTown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Member # 132328
Location: Hemlock, MI
Posts: 183
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mieser View Post
As long as you don't want to go overboard on the articulation ( 10-12" stroke shocks ) a radius arm system will work just fine. A radius arm system has some packaging advantages and can function as a form of sway-control if you get the right bushing setup.

If your going with a high pinion front, I'll say it again......DRIVERS DROP!

You should tell us some of your body ideas.....sharing now might save headaches later.

If you need any body measurements let me know. There are a few others on here that would be more than happy to get some measurements for you. Are you going to build your new tub from scratch?
It will be drivers drop. The axles that I have are from a 79 Bronco so they have the cast wedges. Radius arms would be easier. Thats probably the way I'll go. They'll be narrowed to early Bronco width for easy shaft replacement.

As for the interior mods I'll see if i can draw some up in sketch-up and post them. I'm not real good at getting my ideas out in words.

Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk
BeaverTown is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-16-2012, 12:44 AM   #23 (permalink)
Registered User
 
BeaverTown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Member # 132328
Location: Hemlock, MI
Posts: 183
So I've been working on the motor teardown the last few days and that will go to the machine shop tomorrow to get tanked, maybe bored .030 over, and new cam bearings and freeze plugs installed.

I haven't had much time to work on any sketch-up's but I'll do my best to put some of them into words. The biggest thing I think will be having a specific place for everything. I guess it's been pounded into us so much at work (the 5s thing, everything has a place and everythng in it's place) that it finally stuck... now if only I could do it to my garage. Mieser's list of things pretty much mirrors my own but some other ideas that I had were...

A. Build wheel tubs around the tire at full stuff and shock mount (the shock mount will be tied into the cage and triangulated off of 2"x.250 wall tubing tied into the frame). This should leave a storage "pocket" at both the front (probably will be taken up by the seats) and rear (custom tool box??? not sure on these yet).

B. This kind of depends on the ultimate location of the fuel tank but I'll have a storage drawer on one side of the cargo area with mounts for small action packers on top. The other side of the cargo area will house a cooler and an Artec Industries fluid holder. There will be a removable bar tying the shock mounts together. A baja basket will be hinged off the harness bar to hold light weight items.

C. It's already been covered but I'm going to try to eliminate some of the kick up out of the front floor pans. I'll be using a hanging pedal set (obviously) and a tight fitting trans tunnel as well.

D. One thing that I've been working through in my head has nothing to do with space saving but as I do winter wheel a fair amount I need a defroster. So the idea is to build a defroster into the cage. Instead of running my windsheild bar at the base of the outer frame as I see in most flattie builds, mine will run at the base of the inner frame. It will have holes drilled to direct the air and will be fed from a mojave heater under the dash routed to the cage plate on the side of the dash. I'm still working on this to make sure that it will still be strong and not jeopardize cage integrity.

E. I've been looking at alot of seats on line to come up with the most compact suspension seat. Right now I'm leaning toward the Corbeau JP seat. It seems to be a pretty compact unit that will still hold my 230 lb ass in this little roller skate I'm creating. It's a 21" deep base. Most of the units that I've looked at are 26".

F. Bringing up the rear will be a tight fitting spare tire rack that will hold a Hi-Lift and a couple rota-pax fuel cans. I don't do the overlanding thing very often (especially in the ZJ on 42's) but a local club does a few day trip in Canada that I'd eventually like to go on. The rack will be optimized for departure angle of course. I'm hoping for at least 20 gallons of fuel availability so I'll be looking for around a 16 gallon tank.

That's all that I can think of at the moment. I'll update as I get deeper into the project. Uncle Sam hasn't sent me my check yet so I'm still waiting to pik up my new welder. I'm hoping that it's here soon so that I can get on some fab stuff while the engine is out.

Last edited by BeaverTown; 03-16-2012 at 12:58 AM.
BeaverTown is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-16-2012, 02:42 AM   #24 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Member # 12152
Location: Alpena, Michigan
Posts: 1,666
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeaverTown View Post
It will be drivers drop.....I have.....have the cast wedges.....They'll be narrowed to early Bronco width for easy shaft replacement.....
Narrowing cast wedge 44 = suckfest, starting with a welded wedge HP44 will make things MUCH easier, I have one stripped down and ready to narrow, I also have a couple OE flatty tubs you can look at and measure if you ever get to the Alpena area.

Early Bronco length shafts sounds good on paper...er...screen, but they are not that easy to find anymore...in Michigan anyway....perhaps a combination of Early Bronco short side length (same as '73-'77 GM and pre '78 F-250 short side) and either Wagoneer or Scout long side.
__________________
'46 CJ-2A, '47 CJ-2A, '48 CJ-2A, '50 M38, '52 M38A1, '62 CJ-3B, '62 CJ-5, '65 CJ-5, (2) '66 CJ-5's, '67 CJ-5, '69 CJ-5, '69 J-3000, '70 CJ-101, '74 DJ-5, '74 CJ-5, '77 CJ-5, '78 CJ-5, '78 CJ-7, '78 Wagoneer, '95 YJ, '97 XJ...None of them run.
4Bangler is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-16-2012, 03:23 AM   #25 (permalink)
Registered User
 
BeaverTown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Member # 132328
Location: Hemlock, MI
Posts: 183
I would definately be interested in the 44. I'll be running chromo shafts both front and rear so sourcing those should be relitively easy. I'm still not 100% on what housing ends to use for the rear but I was thinking big bearing ford 9". Or doing something like Mieser did and go full float. Anyone ever built a HP 44 rear from scratch?

As for the tubs, wanna sell one? If I get the 44 I'd like to get some measurements to see how accurate the tub that I have is. I won't get to bring it home until the swamp that is my ex's yard dries up, probably about June.

I was perusing the Artec site last night and I really like thier trusses. I'll be using one in the rear for sure and might see if they'll build a front to work with the radius arm setup as well.

Last edited by BeaverTown; 03-16-2012 at 03:31 AM.
BeaverTown is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

** A VERIFICATION EMAIL IS SENT TO THIS ADDRESS TO COMPLETE REGISTRATION!! **

Email Address:
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 03:32 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.