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Old 07-08-2012, 05:36 PM   #1 (permalink)
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just another flatty (modified cj3a)

Figured since everyone wants more build threads etc lately, I'd try and throw my junk on here!

I am going to copy the thread from another forum, so bear with me for the first bunch of posts!

Here goes:
I recently bought another flatty. A 47 cj2a. Its still sporting the original L-head (which will be staying) a t90 and a d18, for axles its got a 19 spline tapered 2 piece D44 rear and a D27 front from an early 5. It on some 33's which will also be staying.

Here's some pics (also shown is my 51 cj3a resto project)



I am planning on swapping the t90a for the slightly better (lower) geared first of a t90c, which I already have the parts for. For a transfer case I will be using a hybrid d18/d20 set-up for twin sticks that will allow independant use of either axle.

I will be swapping to a later flanged D44 from a cj5 and a disc braked D30 also from a cj5. Both with 5.38 gears and lockers.

I have already completed a saginaw p/s swap. I will also be swapping in Herm the overdrive guy's master cylinder kit to go with my new disc brakes.

Building it for moderate or less trails. Going for reliable, fun little rig!

more pics to come when I get some free time to work on it.

Here is another pic of the 551 with the new panels on the body tub for good measure

I will probably catch alot of flack for my motor choice, but I like the simple little engines, got kind of a soft spot for them. I guess if I was rich, I'd be called eccentric, but I am not rich, so I am just crazy.

Last edited by 302cj3a; 01-06-2014 at 10:05 AM.
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Old 07-08-2012, 05:38 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Started working on the centered, flanged Dana 44 rear today. Plan is all new bearings, races and seals. And a 5.38 ring and pinion set.



Of all the places that I have found Mouse nests on/in a jeep, I have never seen one in a brake drum. Pics of the nest after I cleaned it out

Axles all taken out, Nice and beefy for a light little Jeep.

One last pic of the parts washer I got for christmas. Someone must know about my obsession with old greasy jeeps....


Got a little more work done i=on the D44 rear today. Ring and pinion installed. Got a good gear pattern. Got the housing primed and cleaned up and primed the brake backing plates. Here's the proof.



And here is a picture of the shop for good measure.
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Old 07-08-2012, 05:38 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Here is the pics of the hybrid D18/D20. Its a D20 housing from a J-truck, 1 1/4 intermediate shaft D18 gearset, with the sliding gear from a Bronco D20.

For anyone interested, the reason for using the J-truck D20, is that the case requires less grinding to fit the larger size of the 2.46 low range gears. Also, The J-truck version of the D20 only has one interlock pill. It will allow the use of each axle independently with no other mods other than a twin stick conversion.





The substance on the gears is white lithium grease. It works as a good assembly lube, then dissolves when the case comes up to operating temp the first time.
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Old 07-08-2012, 05:39 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Got the secondary shaft put in, all those little needle bearings are a pain. Unfortunately, that is as far as I got. My rebuild kit did not have the 3 square syncro dogs, or the 2 springs for them. Another call to Novak got them coming.

Heres pics for proof:

All the pieces on the table


installed secondary gearset



More to come when I get more piecey parts
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Old 07-08-2012, 05:40 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Got some work done on redoing the steering box mount and front section of the fame and the cj5 crossmember I decided to use. I think it will make for a clean install and look factory. I hate when things look cobbled together.

Here is the cj5 (1973 I think) crossmember I am going to graft in as well as the heavy cast steering box bracket.


The new drivers side frame horn with the box bracket sitting in a relief cut in the frame.


Passenger side frame horn cut off


Passenger side fish plate (done both sides of the frame)


How it will look with crossmember when completed.



Still need to fish plate the drivers side, weld in the crossmember and build a front bumper and winch plate.

Disclaimer: the cj5 the parts came from was a rotted out frame that was hit in the rear, thus not worth saving....
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Old 07-08-2012, 05:41 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Got a bit more done today. Cross member is all welded in and rattle canned to keep it from rusting.



Then I moved on to the steering shaft. I ended up using 3 ujoints from a cj5. I was unable to make a straight shot due to the motor mount. I still ended up trimming the mount to clear. I mounted the middle shaft in a heim joint. I may add another to the other end of the same shaft to hold it if it moves at all, but it seems very secure so far.





Here is the final product all mocked up with grill in place. I like how clean it looks, that is most of the reason I did this the way I did. Now I just need to build a bumper!




Feel free to comment!
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Old 07-08-2012, 05:42 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Here is the aftermath of grinding the "fixed bodywork" out of the drivers side. I ground all the body filler out and welded in good metal. I also decided to add the MB indents for the shovel and ax. They are not to exact dimensions, but look pretty close for what materials I had to work with. I also had to fix the fuel filler. It had an M38 surround with a 3a filler hole in it all booger welded together (more info on that to come).
Pics are just showing with a primer sealer I quickly sprayed on to keep it from rusting until I get to finish it.



After that mess, I decided I might as well fix the passenger side too. I wasn't sure what I would find, but I was sure it needed to be fixed correctly after witnessing the caliber of work from the drivers side.

As I ground out all the filler, I found out why the tub had the M38 fuel hole and no seat indents in the rear floor. It was an M38 tub (at some point in its life). Oddly enough, the dash it not correct to an M38. I guess if I had started with the passenger side first, I wouldn't have needed to spend a whole day making tool indents on the drivers side from scratch....



The axe indent was badly rusted, and it seemed redundant to carry 2 axes, but 2 shovels would still be handy, so I decided to ditch the axe indent and keep the shovel one. I am not entirely ruling out carrying another axe though. Opinions?


Here is where I left off tonight:





I will be pulling the tub at some point, the floors under the tool box are hosed. I think it'd be easier than trying to repair them from inside the toolbox.
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Old 07-08-2012, 05:43 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Made a mess err..... some progress today. Got the tub pulled and got most of the floors fixed.

Here is the tub coming off




Tipped 'er up and fixed the floors under the tool box. I cut out the really rusty stuff and put new thicker sheetmetal over existing good metal. Did a bit of spot welding it together, then stitched most of the edges. I know its not exactly the most perfect way to fix it, But it will work. (besides, I did it the right way on my other one...)



No pics of the patches yet (I forgot)

Here is how I left it till next week.

Its looking like a motor swap may happen..... I am determined to have a granny gear tranny. It looks like the only way this is gonna happen is with a different engine.

I have a free T18 coming tomorrow from a ford. I just so happen to have a rebuilt 302 and a bellhousing already in my possesion from another project. So.... I just need the adapter to bolt it up to my dana 20.

I think it will be alot more enjoyable on long rides to and from the trails if I can keep 50 mph easily.

The good news is the running l-head can go in my 47 resto project
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Old 07-08-2012, 05:44 PM   #9 (permalink)
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So it turns out the free t18 is actually an NP435. No it worked out a little better (lower first gear). here is a couple pics of getting the tranny.

The truck has been sitting since the early 80's

The floorpans were rusted so we just pulled on them and tore em out



Here it is upside down and cleaned up and primed
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Old 07-08-2012, 05:45 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Got the trans-dapt mounts installed for the 302 today. Test fitted the headers too! Made sure to check clearances around steering shaft and front driveshaft as well.

Here it is going in one of the 20 times it was in or out today...


Still need to swap to a rear sump pan from either an old bronco and f150

Mount welded in. Not bad for splatter core wire

Worked out to have decent clearance for a fan after I cut the old shroud off and made a new radiator mount.


The hood even closes with the 2 barrel installed


Shot from the front. The nose is just lifted right now with a couple hockey pucks. I will be making steel or aluminum spacers for under the grill. This was just for mock up purposes.


The winch will hide the body lift, and a skidplate under the radiator will also follow
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Old 07-08-2012, 05:46 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Got the transmission/adapter/transfercase assembled and installed. Got the crossmember modified for the np435 and also got the new centered/flanged D44 rear mostly installed. Still need to burn in the spring pads and I am waiting on 2 more u-bolts

Engine/trans and transfercase installed (mostly)



Grinding off spring pads


Preview of finalized ride height
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Old 07-08-2012, 05:47 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Got a front cage add on from extremecustomparts.com Built a subframe for the seats off of it. Also added some Summit racing poly high back bucket seats.



Drivers seat, it has 4 sets of mounting hole in 1 inch increments.


I made the passenger seat hinged for access to the storage compartment underneath the passenger seat. I sleeved the seat frame over the subframe, the front flange will be drilled and bolted to the front cross tube. Its hard to explain, but you can check out the pics and probably figure out what I am talking about.....




I made a load bolt on the rear tube to suck out any slack/rattles. I hate anything that rattles...

Here is the clutch master and brake booster installed. There is a set of cherokee pedals under the dash. No pics though..
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Old 07-08-2012, 05:48 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Got the rear U-bolt plates made up today. Used 3/8 plate. I cut 3/4 of the way through them on the ends and rolled them up and welded them to make the plates resistant to bending. I then welded a bolt across one end to serve as a lower shock mount.




I also got the cherokee brake and clutch pedals shortened up a bit to work in my flatty!




My dad got his 52 M38 out of storage to start stripping it down for restoration. His is on the left, my 51 on the right
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Old 07-08-2012, 05:48 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Started putting the front axle together today. Got the ball joints, knuckles, and spindle studs installed. Couldn't get any further until I get the carrier installed after some fresh bearings.



Got a tube notcher. I can't believe I ever did without one. Makes the joints cleaner, tighter, and a heck of alot easier and faster. I clamped it to my welding table.


My dad installed a vise on the welding table before I got to the shop this morning. pretty handy.


A bit more tube work got done today as well. Added a dash bar, and some overhead tube work and gussets.
Dash bar:


Overhead bars:



Got the fuel cell sort of mounted.

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Old 07-08-2012, 05:50 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Installed the flywheel, clutch (11 inch with supposedly 25% more clamping power than stock).



Got the Bellhousing/tranny (np435) and Dana 20 all installed for hopefully the last time. What a pain in the butt to get the tranny installed onto the motor. Normally its pretty easy, but that thing is so heavy, it makes it very difficult.



Spent the rest of the afternoon fabing up a bracket for the hydraulic clutch slave cylinder. Its made with 3/8 and 1/4 flat stock and 1/4 inch angle iron. Should be stout enough. I can add another brace later if need be. I don't think it will be necessary though.





Comments welcome!


EDIT: I will be redoing the rear mount of the slave. I plan on using a small heim joint to let it rotate upon moving
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Old 07-08-2012, 05:50 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Built a transfercase shifter. Couldn't find a twin stick set-up for the np435/d20 combo, and any that would fit the D20 tube rail thing, would hit the side of the trans. So I built one.


From underneath...


Since I seem to have an M38 tub, I pulled the center trans cover hump section, and put the body back on to make shift levers and check fitment of the shift cover of the np435.



Just a little more sheetmetal work on the firewall, and the body should be back on for good! Finally getting somewhere.
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Old 07-08-2012, 05:54 PM   #17 (permalink)
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D25 out!



D30 with disc brakes ready to go in


Here it is installed!


The 95 Mustang A/C compressor barely clears the steering shaft! Looks like I can have on board air!


Couple more under hood shots with the front clip installed. Plenty of room with the 95 mustang serp system



More to come!
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Old 07-08-2012, 05:55 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Clutch and brake master cylinders mounted on the reinforced firewall. I can just barely slide my fingers in above the brake master with the hood installed.


And because some have asked about mounting the cherokee column.



It almost perfectly lines up with the original mounting holes in the dash. I had to trim a bit of the dash so the column would slide up and behind the mounting flange on the dash. I had to file the dash holes out just a little and it fit like it was meant to be there!

And here it is with the front clip installed and rolled out into the daylight!







I am really happy with the stance with the 33's on it. I am eventually going to switch to 34 10.50 swamper LTB's. I prefer the skinny swamper look on the early rigs, and I am dead set on swampers from running them on my other rigs.
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Old 07-08-2012, 05:56 PM   #19 (permalink)
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So that will catch you up to almost where it is now, I need to take some more pics and do a couple more updates when I get time....
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Old 07-08-2012, 06:01 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I may have left out a few things copying it over to here, so feel free to ask if something makes sense, its a year long build, condensed into one page...
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Old 07-08-2012, 06:20 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Is That a cherokee booster and master cylinder?
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Old 07-08-2012, 06:23 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Is That a cherokee booster and master cylinder?
Cherokee booster, cherokee brake master and 87 commanche clutch master (it has a thread in line rather than the stupid plastic kind)
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Old 07-08-2012, 08:46 PM   #23 (permalink)
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good work and thanks for joining the flatty forum....chris
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Old 07-08-2012, 10:58 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Nice build man! I like all the fab work for the little stuff to make it work. Looks real clean. Thanks for joining.

I really like your shop, damn I wish I had a lift and space like that!
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Old 07-09-2012, 05:02 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Nice build man! I like all the fab work for the little stuff to make it work. Looks real clean. Thanks for joining.

I really like your shop, damn I wish I had a lift and space like that!
Thanks, its my grandparents shop.

Seems like the little things take way more time to fix than the big ones!
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