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Old 01-03-2014, 10:15 AM   #251 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jeepfreak81 View Post
I was hoping you wouldn't say that, I just just through this thing about 3 years ago. It did sit a lot the last 2 years though while the new driveline was being put in.
Oh its not THAT bad.

I didn't tell you to throw it away and get a 1.08 autolite
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Old 01-03-2014, 11:19 AM   #252 (permalink)
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Oh its not THAT bad.

I didn't tell you to throw it away and get a 1.08 autolite
I know, I just hate doing it

One more thing to add to the list of stuff to get done before Snofari at the end of the month - that I am away on work most of
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Old 01-13-2014, 10:13 AM   #253 (permalink)
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I know, I just hate doing it

One more thing to add to the list of stuff to get done before Snofari at the end of the month - that I am away on work most of
Did you ever get it figured out?
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Old 01-14-2014, 05:55 AM   #254 (permalink)
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Did you ever get it figured out?
Unfortunately I work out of state a lot and have not been home to touch it yet.
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Old 05-31-2014, 07:27 PM   #255 (permalink)
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I'm running a holley 4412 on my cj5 with a 267 sbc and it's running really rich and loads up pretty bad on the trail on most any angle the jets are #74 with 6.5 power valve. Any suggestion?
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Old 05-31-2014, 07:44 PM   #256 (permalink)
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I'm running a holley 4412 on my cj5 with a 267 sbc and it's running really rich and loads up pretty bad on the trail on most any angle the jets are #74 with 6.5 power valve. Any suggestion?
-Is it loading up at an idle or off idle?

-A 500cfm two barrel is going to be big on a 267ci engine.

-#74 jets seem huge, but this is a 500cfm 2bbl. I'm not super sure how autolite vs holley jets sizes compare, but I am only running 48 jets on a 225ci engine. A lot of factory 302 fords came with 1.08 autolites that where only like 300cfm. I would think about a pretty drastic reduction in jetting if you have to keep that carb. If not I would look for a 1.08 or 1.14 autolite/motorcraft 2100. In my opinion they are a much better off road carb.

-What do you have for engine idle vacuum? The idle mixture screws should be in the 1.5 to 2 turn range. That is a good staring point. idle mixture really shouldn't be effected by main jetting THAT much. If it is loading up at an idle you can turn in the idle mixture screws to help.

-Have you checked your float level? It should be just slightly, maybe 1/8 to 1/4" below the sight plug.

-If you have room extended the vent tube up will help with flooding.

The best answer is to get a wideband o2 meter. This really opens up the world of carb tuning because you can do it by a number instead of by feel, guessing, or trial and error.
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Old 05-31-2014, 07:52 PM   #257 (permalink)
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My vacuum at idle if I remember right was at 17. It runs rich at idle and while driving. I have been looking in to other carbs just seeing if I could dial this one in if not I will try another one.
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Old 05-31-2014, 08:06 PM   #258 (permalink)
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My vacuum at idle if I remember right was at 17. It runs rich at idle and while driving. I have been looking in to other carbs just seeing if I could dial this one in if not I will try another one.
You could start by screwing the idle screws in till the vacuum starts to drop off, then back off 1/4 turn and try that.
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Old 08-09-2014, 06:37 PM   #259 (permalink)
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Alright guys, got a question.

I have a MC2100, float set to a quarter ($.25) from the top of the bowl. Idle jets set for max vac then out (rich) maybe 1/16 turn.

I have a slight hesitation just off idle. I have read its from the lowered float level. I am thinking about choking up on the accelerator pump to give a little more of a "shot" of fuel when cracking the throttle.

I cant see to wrap my head around it tonight for some reason, but I am thinking I should move the linkage out (further away from the acc. pump) to "fatten" it up a bit.

good idea or no?
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Old 08-09-2014, 08:47 PM   #260 (permalink)
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Alright guys, got a question.

I have a MC2100, float set to a quarter ($.25) from the top of the bowl. Idle jets set for max vac then out (rich) maybe 1/16 turn.

I have a slight hesitation just off idle. I have read its from the lowered float level. I am thinking about choking up on the accelerator pump to give a little more of a "shot" of fuel when cracking the throttle.

I cant see to wrap my head around it tonight for some reason, but I am thinking I should move the linkage out (further away from the acc. pump) to "fatten" it up a bit.

good idea or no?
I generally set the accelerator pump small and work up till the stumble goes away. Small is with the long arm ( on the front of the carb) all the way out and the short arm ( off the throttle shaft) all the way in. Make sure the engine is all the way up to temp while tuning. You can start tuning with the engine not under load. Work up till you can't detect the flat spot/stumble/hesitation. Generally I have to pull out a little bit of accelerator pump shot under load, all engines are a little different.

The hesitation off idle isn't from the float level. The only thing the lower float level might do is cause a surge on the main jets or at WOT.

That hesitation can be caused by either too lean of an idle or perhaps the accelerator pump shot being too small ( feels flat, no black smoke ) or too large ( feels flat, black puff of smoke )

How many turns are you out on the idle screws. 1.5 is a good starting point, but I have found 2-2.5 to work better most of the time. This should put the idle mixture at 13.5:1ish

What is your idle vacuum reading? Is the needle steady?

What size autolite are you running on your 302?

What elevation are you at?
What power valve are you running?

Have you rebuilt the carb recently? It is always good to start with a power valve and accelerator pump you know is good.
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Old 08-10-2014, 03:09 AM   #261 (permalink)
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I generally set the accelerator pump small and work up till the stumble goes away. Small is with the long arm ( on the front of the carb) all the way out and the short arm ( off the throttle shaft) all the way in. Make sure the engine is all the way up to temp while tuning. You can start tuning with the engine not under load. Work up till you can't detect the flat spot/stumble/hesitation. Generally I have to pull out a little bit of accelerator pump shot under load, all engines are a little different.

The hesitation off idle isn't from the float level. The only thing the lower float level might do is cause a surge on the main jets or at WOT.

That hesitation can be caused by either too lean of an idle or perhaps the accelerator pump shot being too small ( feels flat, no black smoke ) or too large ( feels flat, black puff of smoke )

How many turns are you out on the idle screws. 1.5 is a good starting point, but I have found 2-2.5 to work better most of the time. This should put the idle mixture at 13.5:1ish

What is your idle vacuum reading? Is the needle steady?

What size autolite are you running on your 302?

What elevation are you at?
What power valve are you running?

Have you rebuilt the carb recently? It is always good to start with a power valve and accelerator pump you know is good.
The autolite was native to the motor earlier in its life. Not exactly sure of the size, but it came on it, so must be right.

Getting between 19 and 20 inches at idle. nice and steady

I am 1.5 turns out give or take an 1/8 I will try and fatten it up on a vacuum gauge in the morning. I will try for somehwere between 1.5 and 2 turns and see how it goes.

Taking it out for its first "real" wheeling trip since the build, Wish me luck
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Old 08-10-2014, 07:46 AM   #262 (permalink)
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The autolite was native to the motor earlier in its life. Not exactly sure of the size, but it came on it, so must be right.

Getting between 19 and 20 inches at idle. nice and steady

I am 1.5 turns out give or take an 1/8 I will try and fatten it up on a vacuum gauge in the morning. I will try for somehwere between 1.5 and 2 turns and see how it goes.

Taking it out for its first "real" wheeling trip since the build, Wish me luck
I hope it goes well for you. I highly suggest making a slosh-o-matic top cover gasket and modding the vent tubes in the future.

The wideband 02 gauges are pretty inexpensive, they make tuning a carb a LOT easier. Just because it came on the motor doesn't mean its that well tuned from the factory. My 1.08 carb came off a 302 and it only had 47 main jets from the factory I run those 47s on my little v6 at 7000ft and the mixture is about 14:1 when its about 60-70F.

With your high idle vacuum ( you must be at a fairly low elevation? ) you will probably want to think about running a 8-10 power valve to prevent a flat spot coming off the main jets.

Running the idle mixture a little richer also really helped my low RPM lugging ability vs stoch. You should be fine at 2 turns out, the engine shouldn't load up or anything as long as the idle is adjusted. Make sure to check the ends of the idle needles for also. They eventually wear or get eroded and that can cause some issues.
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Old 08-12-2014, 09:49 AM   #263 (permalink)
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I finally picked up a MC2100 for my 258. When I tore it down last night, I found that one of the brass tubes that extend from the venturi assembly is cracked.
I did some searching online, and I only found 1 instance of this happening MC2100 leaking venturi question - Jeep-CJ Forums. In the example I found, both brass tube were cracked and leaking (supposedly causing a rough idle).
Has anyone else ran into this issue with a cracked venturi? Does a crack = leak = rough idle?
I'm trying to find a replacement venturi assembly. I will probably look into brazing the cracked one too.. thoughts?
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Old 08-12-2014, 09:57 AM   #264 (permalink)
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Yep, had it happen on a friends Scrambler. I have a small stash of 2100/2150's so we just replaced it. Ran great after it was replaced.

I would think it would be a better idea to replace than brazing it. If you can't find one locally I could spare one.
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Old 01-16-2015, 07:51 AM   #265 (permalink)
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I found this thread in general about some edelbrock carb mods...

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...fications.html
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Old 06-27-2017, 02:25 AM   #266 (permalink)
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Thread resurrection.

Installed a MC2150 on an early CJ5 AMC 232 with 258 manifolds, no choke, no manifold pre-heating, no EGR.
Cold pump 2 times the pedal and starts right up.
Warm just turn the key.
Runs great, great carb, great swap.

Only modification needed, the 2 exhaust manifold external holes are off centered with the 232 head stud holes, by about 1/4 inch. I cut the manifold ears open and bolt it on.

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Old 04-01-2019, 08:51 AM   #267 (permalink)
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Wanted to get some experienced input.

Installed a 1.01 venturi Autolite 2100 on my Jeep 232 using the later model aluminum 2 barrel intake/exhaust. Used the machined aluminum adapter from Ebay so no vacuum leaks, all new gaskets, fresh carb rebuild etc.. Also the engine ran great with the original YFA 1 barrel but did not run well at angles. Also replaced Ignition Module, Cap/Rotor and plugs/wires are less than a year old.

Fired up first try, idled great and dialed in idle mixture by ear but had huge flat spot 1/2 to full throttle. Factory setup has #46 Jets and an "OEM" style power valve. Adjusted accelerator linkage to lowest fuel shot on the pump arm and 2nd hole down on the throttle linkage.

Hooked up vacuum gauge to cab so I could watch what was going on and adjusted idle mixture to best vacuum (19in at 2300ft of elevation). Engine runs great on the low end and cruise with vacuum above 7in but once you go below that it falls flat and will not recover until vacuum is brought back up.

Will cruise between 10-15in of vacuum and does great. Installed a Holley 6.5in power valve and moved the point of falling on its face to 6.5in. I wondered if the smaller venturi of 1.01 vs. the usual 1.08 is causing increased air speed (which I wanted for low rpm response) but is causing the air bleeds to pull too much fuel with pretty standard 46 jets coupled with the power valve is too much fuel to light off. So I would need to jet further back than is usually seen with the 1.08s?

So I have a A/F gauge and jets from 43-49 on the way but my question is if the main jet change will also affect the power valve circuit when at WOT? I would hate to have to get into the PVCR's to dial back the power valve fuel metering but symptoms point to heavy fuel when power valve opens. Guess we'll see when the O2 gauge shows up.
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Old 04-01-2019, 09:17 AM   #268 (permalink)
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Wanted to get some experienced input.

Installed a 1.01 venturi Autolite 2100 on my Jeep 232 using the later model aluminum 2 barrel intake/exhaust. Used the machined aluminum adapter from Ebay so no vacuum leaks, all new gaskets, fresh carb rebuild etc.. Also the engine ran great with the original YFA 1 barrel but did not run well at angles. Also replaced Ignition Module, Cap/Rotor and plugs/wires are less than a year old.

Fired up first try, idled great and dialed in idle mixture by ear but had huge flat spot 1/2 to full throttle. Factory setup has #46 Jets and an "OEM" style power valve. Adjusted accelerator linkage to lowest fuel shot on the pump arm and 2nd hole down on the throttle linkage.

Hooked up vacuum gauge to cab so I could watch what was going on and adjusted idle mixture to best vacuum (19in at 2300ft of elevation). Engine runs great on the low end and cruise with vacuum above 7in but once you go below that it falls flat and will not recover until vacuum is brought back up.

Will cruise between 10-15in of vacuum and does great. Installed a Holley 6.5in power valve and moved the point of falling on its face to 6.5in. I wondered if the smaller venturi of 1.01 vs. the usual 1.08 is causing increased air speed (which I wanted for low rpm response) but is causing the air bleeds to pull too much fuel with pretty standard 46 jets coupled with the power valve is too much fuel to light off. So I would need to jet further back than is usually seen with the 1.08s? <a href="https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/images/smilies/confused.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Confused" >:-)</a>

So I have a A/F gauge and jets from 43-49 on the way but my question is if the main jet change will also affect the power valve circuit when at WOT? I would hate to have to get into the PVCR's to dial back the power valve fuel metering but symptoms point to heavy fuel when power valve opens. Guess we'll see when the O2 gauge shows up.
It sounds like your power valve metering circuit is giving you issues. In my experience that circuit is usually very rich.

Restricting that circuit is challenging, but I think it is possible.

Does your carb have the high speed air bleeds? There will be a drop tube at the back of the fuel bowl attached to the top plate.

In my experience most of the factory carbs are jetted pretty lean on the mains.
#46 sounds a bit small to me at your elevation.

Wait till you get the wideband 02 meter, that will take a lot of the guess work out of it.
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Old 04-01-2019, 11:57 AM   #269 (permalink)
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It sounds like your power valve metering circuit is giving you issues. In my experience that circuit is usually very rich.

Restricting that circuit is challenging, but I think it is possible.

Does your carb have the high speed air bleeds? There will be a drop tube at the back of the fuel bowl attached to the top plate.

In my experience most of the factory carbs are jetted pretty lean on the mains.
#46 sounds a bit small to me at your elevation.

Wait till you get the wideband 02 meter, that will take a lot of the guess work out of it.
Unfortunately no, this is a 1964 era 2100. I do have a 2150 that has the high speed air bleeds but it is a 1.21 venturi and I figured it was too big to mess with.

When I opened it up and saw the 46 mains, I was excited thinking it would be pretty close based on other peoples setups but the power valve enrichment is throwing me for a loop. It acts as if I blocked off the power valve it would run great so I wonder if the previous ebay owner of the carb had enlarged the jets or PVCR's. I am still on the lookout for a 1.08 2150

I also wondered about buying a 2 stage power valve and cover thinking the 1st stage of enrichment could be a lower volume.
2150-52 - Carburetors Unlimited

PV-70-29 - Carburetors Unlimited

P.S Mieser thank you so much for sharing your knowledge on here and the Rango threads. Definitely an inspiration to dig in and learn how these 2100's can be utilized.
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Old 04-02-2019, 07:12 PM   #270 (permalink)
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Unfortunately no, this is a 1964 era 2100. I do have a 2150 that has the high speed air bleeds but it is a 1.21 venturi and I figured it was too big to mess with.

When I opened it up and saw the 46 mains, I was excited thinking it would be pretty close based on other peoples setups but the power valve enrichment is throwing me for a loop. It acts as if I blocked off the power valve it would run great so I wonder if the previous ebay owner of the carb had enlarged the jets or PVCR's. I am still on the lookout for a 1.08 2150

I also wondered about buying a 2 stage power valve and cover thinking the 1st stage of enrichment could be a lower volume.
2150-52 - Carburetors Unlimited

PV-70-29 - Carburetors Unlimited

P.S Mieser thank you so much for sharing your knowledge on here and the Rango threads. Definitely an inspiration to dig in and learn how these 2100's can be utilized.
You don't want the high speed air bleeds in my experience. Especially if you want to mod the bowl gasket and vent like I invented a few years back.

The bonus to STARTING with a carb that has high speed air bleeds is that the PVCR ( Power Valve Channel Restriction ) is typically smaller to start with. This generally means that the carb won't be so pig rich when it is on the power valve. The high speed air bleeds are pretty easy to delete with a dremel and some epoxy. If the PVCR is too small, it can be drilled out slightly to allow slightly more fuel.

The power valve itself is WHEN the extra fuel for a low vacuum situation come in.

The PVCR is HOW MUCH fuel goes into the engine when the power valve opens.

The Power valve should typically be about 4-5" below your level ground part throttle highway cruise. If it is too high it is always open and you will get crap mileage. If it is too low it will never open and the engine till feel flat on the top end unless you jet the crap out of it ( and then run rich typically at part throttle )

I have been building my own modified version of the new reproduction Motorcraft Clones. These have been really good carbs for the money honestly. They are as good as the 50 year old ones I have been rebuilding for people. They are a 1.14 version which is just about 300cfm. That is perfect for a I6/V6 or small/mild V8 engine.



If anyone is interested in one please drop me a PM. They are build to order right now with a 2-3 week lead time.

I'm sorry I don't get over here as much these days. I will be giving my old flat fender some love this summer now that the LX45 is pretty much done.
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Old 04-04-2019, 05:59 AM   #271 (permalink)
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So O2 Gauge arrived yesterday and confirmed my initial thoughts on the problem. My ear and vacuum tuning had me at 10-12 A/F at idle, cruising was around 8 and power valve was out of range under 7.4 that the gauge bottoms out on.

Stepping from the 46 jets to 45s did not make more than .5 to 1 point of change but should have 41-44 jets arriving today.

I am a bit surprised that I'm having to step so far back on the jetting. Either the smaller venturi is pulling higher speed air and pushing more fuel or my 232 isn't pulling enough air for the fuel delivered. Definitely interesting tinkering around with these carbs.

Before installation I would have put money on needing bigger than average jets for the 1.01 carb since to run the 1.21 carbs guys have to jet way back.
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Old 04-04-2019, 07:39 AM   #272 (permalink)
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Old 04-04-2019, 10:28 AM   #273 (permalink)
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Pshhh... using a fuel source that wont flood, is injected with no fuel pump so it runs at all angles, is simple to setup, turbo's love the octane and arguably engines have less wear running on it. Blasphemy!
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Old 04-08-2019, 04:55 AM   #274 (permalink)
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Little bit of an update, the smaller jets arrived so I stepped back to a 43 jet which helped but still had the main circuit regularly at 9-10 A/F ratio so I jumped to the smallest I had at 41. The 41 has the main circuit in the 11.5-12 ratio driving slow and 13.5-14 at highway speed so it seems like an okay fit. Getting a very rich transition slot at around 9 a/f just off idle (idle was adjusted to 13.5-14) that I can't figure out how to adjust. I made sure the Accel pump was given enough clearance between the pump arm and diaphragm so I am not getting a pump shot at transition. I did pull the fuel inlet shield from the 2150 to install on the 2100 and removed the "air shield" that the early 2100s have that attaches to under the screw securing the boosters and covers the idle air bleeds. This did help the transition by about .4-.6 A/F by inducing more air to the circuit.

Finally on to the Power Valve... None of the main circuit jetting I did affected my extremely rich power valve circuit. I made sure my mechanical advance was working in the distributor and tore down the 2150 carb to compare to my 2100 and found that the 2100 had HUGE PVCR's. So comes the interesting part, I wanted the power valve to maintain the 12-12.5 A/F ratio and was getting around 9. Based on the change in A/F ratio I figured I was getting around twice as much fuel as I wanted soooo.. I plugged one of the PVCR's with a removable plastic plug. Right wrong or indifferent it did change my fuel when on the power valve to a reasonable 10-12 A/F. Outside of the super rich transition its actually running really well and I plan to limit the PVCR's the right way be resizing down with the set screws as done on Holley's etc..

Eventually I will probably step back the main jets a little more and put in the 9.5 PV I have since my Idle vacuum is 19inHg. Currently I am running a 6.5 PV just to make sure I have enough air flowing before it opens the valve.
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-Ohio 4x4 Trailriders-
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