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Old 08-06-2012, 04:47 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADChevy4x4 View Post
Is there a history of those girdles actually working as advertised? The stress on the transfer case from 300 ft pounds of engine torque and the gears trying to climb over each other might overwhelm that piece?????
They sold them for a pretty long time. I can't see them hurting anything?

The stock D18 case is actually a pretty strong unit overall, far stronger than its 60hp roots would lead most to believe.
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Old 08-07-2012, 04:06 AM   #27 (permalink)
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They sold them for a pretty long time. I can't see them hurting anything?

The stock D18 case is actually a pretty strong unit overall, far stronger than its 60hp roots would lead most to believe.
I'm thinking any external bracing designed to reinforce a casting needs to have a "preload". I don't see that. Of course it won't hurt and might even do the job,I'm just speculating.
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Old 08-07-2012, 05:52 AM   #28 (permalink)
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I'm not an engineer, but one should also consider the forces applied from bigger tires, and axles getting bound up in big rocks. That girdle from tri county is designed for more than just bigger motors.
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Old 08-07-2012, 03:07 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Advance Adapters

http://www.advanceadapters.com/tech-vault/dana-18/

Don't forget that Advance adapters has made the taper roller idler bearing replacement kit for a really long time.. although it requires machining your idler gear for the bearing cups it is a well made kit.


Also they still make bling finned aluminum oil pans for the dana 18//20 that should help shed some heat.. you will need a skidplate on it for rockcrawling though
http://www.jegs.com/i/Trans-Dapt/969/4820/10002/-
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Old 08-07-2012, 03:17 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Has anyone run the tapered bearing intermediate shaft that could share some thoughts?
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Old 08-07-2012, 03:35 PM   #31 (permalink)
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I actually ran it on my dana 20 when I had the dual transmissions in my flatty... I used it because I had it, probably not needed in a dana 20. The pin kit works basically the same as the way a NP205 is laid out .

I have a plan for the case in a future build though.. the trans-dapt cover works great... seals waaaaaaay better than the stamped tin one, the only cover I have seen that was thicker was the ramsey Dana 20 PTO cover that runs off the idler gear

in an earlier post someone complained about shift rail seals leaking.... I always replaced the ones in the kit with double lip seals it really cut down on the grit getting in and messing up the garter spring on the seal
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Old 08-07-2012, 04:59 PM   #32 (permalink)
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I find it interesting that the AA tapered bearing conversion doesn't use a spacer and shim between the bearings like the NP205 does?

Does anyone know if the AA shaft will work with the Tera 3.15 gears? I wonder if the Tera gears have enough room for the new bearing cups to be machined in?
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Old 08-12-2012, 08:16 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Anyone have a source for a rear output yoke? Mine's running oil out of it everytime I drive it now, from all seals, and I'm pretty sure with the output yoke having the groove on the sealing surface, it isn't helping.
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Old 08-13-2012, 12:08 AM   #34 (permalink)
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You can get a speedy sleeve that will fix up the worn area on your yoke seal surface.
Made by CR seals and a few others you just need a caliper to measure your yoke and pretty much any bearing supplier can get them.......
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Old 08-13-2012, 04:23 AM   #35 (permalink)
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I actually ran it on my dana 20 when I had the dual transmissions in my flatty...
More info?
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Old 08-13-2012, 09:45 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Used to have a 4.3v6 joined to a SM 420 then to a T 19 and a Dana20 from a
IH scout I made a custom main shaft for the 420 that was internally splined
Then used the larger 2 ton truck T19 input gear cut down it was long,heavy and
Had a lot of shifters (and 406:1 with my 4.56 axles)
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Old 08-17-2012, 09:40 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Question of the day...

What is the part number for the spicer 1310 yoke that comes with u-bolts instead of straps?

Lots of strap and CV options here...

http://www.northerndrivetrain.com/pr...I-3104-10.html

I guess I need to go dig through the Spicer catalog....


U-Joint Series 1310
Spline Major Diameter 1.125
Spline Count 10.000
Spline Type
Spline Pressure Angle
Ground Hub Diameter R 1.552
Length Thru Bore Q 1.500
Centerline of Joint to End of Spline S 3.000
Universal Joint Retaining Width E 3.219
Universal Joint Bearing Diameter D 1.062
Counterbore Depth 0.000
Joint Angle 25.000
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Last edited by Mieser; 08-17-2012 at 09:41 AM.
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Old 08-18-2012, 06:49 AM   #38 (permalink)
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You can get a speedy sleeve that will fix up the worn area on your yoke seal surface.
Made by CR seals and a few others you just need a caliper to measure your yoke and pretty much any bearing supplier can get them.......
The Speedi Sleeves work out ok....But they are quite pricey ..
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Old 08-18-2012, 07:33 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Willie Worthy wrote this in Jp a few years back, mentions old Studebaker OD units, Rancho overdrives and even a three speed D18 custom made in a shop in Hemet:
http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticl...l/viewall.html

quote:

"Believe it or not, there actually was a three-speed version of Spicer 18 built back in the 1960s. Thing is, it wasn't built by Spicer. It was made from plate steel that was welded together and then heat-treated to relieve the stress before being machined. It had to be about 1962 or 1963, and I was for some reason or another in Buschert's Machine Shop in Hemet, California. Harry Buschert was showing a buddy and I this prototype that he had developed. I don't think that there were over a half dozen ever made, and each one was a bit different. I wouldn't swear to it, but I believe it had a lower low range than the normal 2.46 gearing, a 1:1 high range, and an overdrive range. Harry was on the right track and way ahead of his time when he built these. Little could he imagine that some day a three-speed and a four-speed transfer case would be in production."


might be worth some google searching
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Old 08-27-2012, 10:30 AM   #40 (permalink)
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So what total rebuild kit has the best bearings? I have heard that the Novak kit might have changed there bearings?
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Old 08-27-2012, 12:47 PM   #41 (permalink)
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So what total rebuild kit has the best bearings? I have heard that the Novak kit might have changed there bearings?
I just got my Novak kit, looked like the Novak intermediate shaft, crown seals, and bearings that said "Japan" on them, didn't look at it too deeply.
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Old 08-27-2012, 01:39 PM   #42 (permalink)
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I just got my Novak kit, looked like the Novak intermediate shaft, crown seals, and bearings that said "Japan" on them, didn't look at it too deeply.
They should say Koyo?
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Old 08-27-2012, 05:15 PM   #43 (permalink)
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They should say Koyo?
That's them, didn't remember if it was koto or koyo.
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Old 08-27-2012, 06:19 PM   #44 (permalink)
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So what total rebuild kit has the best bearings? I have heard that the Novak kit might have changed there bearings?
Nope, still Koyo's, best bearing made. It's my goal to convert you Mieser!
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Old 08-27-2012, 06:33 PM   #45 (permalink)
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I'm not against ordering the Novak kit, it really isn't THAT bad of a price when you consider it comes with a good quality shaft also.

I just want to make sure that I get what I pay for.
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Old 08-27-2012, 07:27 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Nothing wrong with Koyo bearings
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Old 08-28-2012, 10:09 AM   #47 (permalink)
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Comparison shopping....

I noticed that Herm's kit also has koyo bearings?

http://www.hermtheoverdriveguy.com/id3.htm

$90 for the complete kit ( minus intermediate shaft )

I need to dig out my OEM 1.25" shaft and see what it looks like....

If it's trash I will probably just order the complete novak kit.
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Old 08-28-2012, 10:41 AM   #48 (permalink)
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So, has anyone successfully installed a sight tube for oil level in these t cases? Not sure drilling and tapping the case would exactly make it stronger though
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Old 08-28-2012, 11:50 AM   #49 (permalink)
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I'm thinking about doing it during my rebuild...

I think I am just going to make a hollow bolt to small female npt adapter think for one of the bottom cover bolts. Then run the top of the tube into a T-fitting at the vent port.

Drilling and tapping the case doesn't sound fun.

You might be able to drill and tap the rear output housing also. I have thought about doing that too.

Edit: For my transfer case, since I don't run a speedo, I was also thinking about making a sight glass that fit in the speedo cable port.
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Old 09-04-2012, 03:12 PM   #50 (permalink)
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You can get a rebuild kit, minus the intermediate shaft, from Novak if you want. I found my factory 1.25" D20 shaft, it was in great shape, so I decided to use that in my D18 rebuild.

They took off about $50 for the shaft. Shipping was fair.

The novak kit seems the most comprehensive...



The rebuild kit is suppose to come with all the '*' parts...

1. Companion Flange
3. Emergency Brake Drum
3. Emergency Brake Shoes
4. Brake Operating Lever
5. Bearing Cap Oil Seal *
6. Brake Operating Lever Stud
7. Rear Bearing Cap
8. Rear Bearing Cap Shim Set *
9. Bolt
10. Lockwasher
11. Bolt
12. Transfer Case Rear Cover
13. Gasket, rear cover *
14. Intermediate Shaft Lock Plate
15. Transfer Case
16. Shift Rod
17. Poppet Plug
18. Poppet Spring *
19. Poppet Ball *
20. Shift Rod Interlock
21. Gasket, bearing cap
22. Cap, front bearing
23. Breather
24. Seal, oil, shift rail *
25. End Yoke
26. Gasket, oil seal *
27. Bolt
28. Lockwasher
29. Shift Rod
30. Front Wheel Drive Shift Fork
31. Underdrive and Direct Shift Fork
32. Filler Plug
33. Gear, input shaft
34. Washer, input gear
35. Washer, thrust *
36. Gear, intermediate
37. Ring, retaining / snap, front output bearing *
38. Bearing, front output shaft
39. Nut, companion flange
40. Washer, plain
41. Output Clutch Shaft
42. Output Clutch Shaft Gear
43. Ring, snap / retaining, front output shaft
44. Washer, thrust *
45. Output Shaft Gear
46. Gear, output shaft, sliding
47. Bushing, output shaft pilot *
48. Shaft, output
49. Bearing, tapered roller, rear output *
50. Cup, tapered roller, rear output *
51. Gear, speedometer drive
52. Bearings, needle roller *
53. Spacer, bearing *
54. Shaft, intermediate idler *
55. Plug, drain
56. Gasket, bottom cover *
57. Nut, input shaft
58. Cover, bottom (pan)
59. Speedometer Driven Gear Sleeve
60. Speedometer Driven Gear (15-t)
61. Speedometer Driven Gear Bushing
62. Gasket, rear output *
63. Bolt
64. Bolt
65. Bolt
66. Bolt
67. Lockwasher
68. Nut
69. Seal, oil, felt *

Hopefully it is the quality I paid for. I will make sure to update during my rebuild of the case. I'm interested to see what they provide for the output seals.....double lip, wave, etc?

There gaskets are suppose to be the highest quality also.
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