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Old 09-13-2012, 11:57 AM   #51 (permalink)
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From my build thread.....

The bushing for the front output shaft in the rear output shaft was worn out. The Novak rebuild kit came with a new one. Then I just needed to figure out how to get the old bushing out. This is what finally worked.....





I was able to stick the output shaft in the vise on the mill. Then I chucked up a shoulder bolt in a collet. I was then able to use the quill feed handle to apply pressure to the back of the bushing while keeping everything super straight with the mill. I would tap on one side then run the cross slide over to the other side. Then repeat that about 50 million times All in all it only took most of my lunch half hour including trying a few other things that didn't work.

Fun Fun....

Another reason to have a mill!
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Old 09-13-2012, 05:39 PM   #52 (permalink)
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A few pics to compare the D18 case ( 1.125 version ) to a D20 case ( 1.25" version )









Note:

-The D20 case is a slightly different shape on the top.
-The D20 has the fill port on the back of the case above where the rear output housing goes. This conflicts with the speedo cable fitting.
-There is a boss for a normal D18 style fill port
-There is a threaded hole for the clutch pivot
-There is no cover over the 4wd low shift rod hole
-There is an extra shift lever hole when used for a D18 application where the 4wd shift rod is short.
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Last edited by Mieser; 09-13-2012 at 05:40 PM.
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Old 09-18-2012, 07:15 PM   #53 (permalink)
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A ma

Some more notes from my D18/20 building....



A magnetic base and dial indicator is nice to have around. Make sure to mark the position you use on the end of the shaft. My shaft had about .010 runout on the end of the threaded portion. You can also use the shoulder just up the shaft from the threads where it tapers into the splines. This was about .002 runout but if much harder to get a tip on the flat section.



After some trial and error with the shim stack, I got it as close as possible. I ended up with a lot of thin shims. Novak only includes thin shims in there kit. The t-case I used for parts had thin shims. I couldn't find the shims from the D20 tear down.

After a few tries I finally got down into the .002 range with all the gaskets dry.

My basic therory was that I roughly set the rear bearing cone till I only had about .030 of movement in the shaft. Then I measured the pocket on the rear housing ( about .099 to .105 ) and the amount that the cone was sticking out of the case ( about .190 or so ). From this I knew I needed about .090-.100 in shim for the .030 in shaft movement. I had a goal of .005 shaft play so I build a shim pack to get around .075" thick. This was a good starting point and was only need one or two adjustments to get down to the .002-.003 range.

Shims are not THAT consistent when measuring. I cleaned and cleaned them but always had about .002 difference between the individual shims if they are all suppose to be .010 or whatever.

The final (dry) was .002 as far a I could tell. I had to tap the end of the shaft forward with a hammer and then pry it back to get that movement. This is a little tight, but i figured that things would open up with sealant on the front housing gasket and copper on the shims.

The front housing was pulled and high-tack used on both metal surfaces and the .030 thick gasket. I tried to torque all the front output bolts the same but some of the bolts are pretty shrouded so it wasn't as simple as getting a torque wrench and socket on them.

All the bolts in the front cover where also thread sealed.

I sprayed all the shims with copper spray and let sit for 1-2 minutes until tacky. Then I assembled then all into a stack and sprayed the back side of the last shim. I hope this will give enough coverage on all the shims without going overkill.

Then I assembled everything, thread sealed, and torqued the rear housing bolts.

All in all it turned out pretty good. Maybe a little tight at .003+ish. It kinda depends on how much leverage I use to move the shaft. It feels butter smooth and doesn't have any notchy feeling or binding to it. I am pretty happy with out it turned out.



Next I set up the intermediate gear bearings. I don't know what the big deal is. A little petroleum jelly that sat in the freezer and everything held its place great. Lots of bearings. Don't forget the 3 spacer washers either. One on each end and one in the middle of the two sets of bearings.



Some more frozen jelly worked good to hold the thrust washers in place. All in all the OEM shaft went in just fine.....



One hint. Stop for a second installing the shaft at this point just when you get the shaft past the forward thrust washer...



Clean out the extra jelly here after installing the shaft. Then use a finger smear of right stuff before tapping the shaft into its final home. The oem shaft is a TIGHT fit for the last 1/2" or so!



Then install the keeper with a little locktite and/or sealant. This hole is blind I am pretty sure so it shouldn't matter. But I have been trying to seal everything as much as I can.



It also seem to help if you lock the sliding low range gear into neutral during the install so your not trying to mesh two gears at once. Only install the ball and spring AFTER your done installing the sealant on the front housing gasket.

I also found it help full to install the ball and spring for the 4wd shift detents when I built the front housing to keep everything in the '4wd' position when playing with the front housing.



Novak includes a super thick bottom cover gasket! Its a rubber composite gasket I think....

That is as far as I got tonight.....
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Old 09-20-2012, 08:02 PM   #54 (permalink)
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I borrowed some safety wire pliers tonight and wired up the front housing on the new D18....





I think I got it ok. I decided to do the left and right sides of the housing separately. This makes for one two bolt set and one three bolt set. Having the wire rub on the top or bottom of the housing trying to group all of the heads into one set didn't seem line a good idea. The wire could rub on the housing if tight and could eventually fail?
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Old 10-15-2012, 09:55 AM   #55 (permalink)
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Running a normal 1310 style yoke on the rear of a D18.

Running a normal U-bolt style yoke on the rear output of a D18 is possible. It gains about 1" of rear driveline length over the stock flange style yoke. This requires the elimination of the factory e-brake assembly.

It does NOT just bolt on and work however. I had thrown one on my D18 in haste during my recent buildup but was able to dig into it further this weekend finally.

Notes....

-The dust shield has to be removed. It will bottom out on the rear output housing.

-The normal 1310 u-bolt yoke cannot be fully torqued up in the stock configuration. You need to add approx a .150 shim between the speedo gear and the yoke. If you bottom out the yoke completely the end of the shaft does not have a 'deep' enough threaded portion. Basically the nut will bottom out on the shaft shoulder before the yoke is tight on the shoulder of the splines or against the speedo gear.

-Watch the seal position. It needs to be pushed to the back of the bore in the output housing to avoid trying to ride on the yoke too far forward where the dust shield usually goes. If your using a used yoke there will be a little rust between the dust cover and yoke that will not provide a good sealing surface.

I will be transferring this tech into my new D18 also. In that application I will be removing the speedo gear and building a custom length spacer. I am pretty sure you HAVE to have something for the yoke to torque against other than the step in the splines on the output shaft.
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Old 10-15-2012, 10:08 AM   #56 (permalink)
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good tech ^^

I have the parts sitting around to do that swap (already got rid of my ebrake) and you've saved me some troubleshooting!
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Old 10-16-2012, 06:24 AM   #57 (permalink)
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Hey Mieser!

This is a great thread, Lots of good tech. Here is my latest aquasition. New build never run and ready for the MB-5.
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Old 10-16-2012, 06:53 AM   #58 (permalink)
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Cool, whats just with the intermediate shaft? Tapered bearing conversion?
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Old 10-16-2012, 07:01 AM   #59 (permalink)
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It does have a tapered roller bearing conversin.
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Old 10-16-2012, 07:03 AM   #60 (permalink)
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What ratio low range?
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Old 10-16-2012, 07:24 AM   #61 (permalink)
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It's a 4.86 Looks like it's going against a t18
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Old 10-16-2012, 07:41 AM   #62 (permalink)
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Quote:
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It's a 4.86 Looks like it's going against a t18
That will be low enough!

Any thoughts on using an overdrive for a good middle range?
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Old 10-16-2012, 07:46 AM   #63 (permalink)
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Who makes this gearset? It looks like an earlier front output housing is needed for twin stick?
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Old 10-16-2012, 07:50 AM   #64 (permalink)
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Funny,
I have a Warn on my currant t-case. (which I thought about selling off) I'd need a special gear from Herm (which is almost what I paid for the case) and may need to do additional case reinforcement.
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Old 10-16-2012, 09:59 AM   #65 (permalink)
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Just now found this page, and I'm glad I did. I own 3 18's and I'm sure this info will come in handy!
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Old 10-16-2012, 11:17 AM   #66 (permalink)
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I'm pretty sure nobody makes an overdrive gear that fits that low of a ratio. Last I looked, you could get the gear for the 3.50:1 (I think it was) jack o'brien/madrooster gearset, but that was as low as you could go. I'm guessing the input gear can only get so small before it simply doesn't have the room inside for the planetary stuff. I could be wrong, kinda hope I am... that would be a neat setup!

If you paid what I think you did on the case, man you got a deal. I think they were around $2000 when they were available.
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Old 10-16-2012, 11:53 AM   #67 (permalink)
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I wasn't planning to use an O/D. With 3.73s I'm at almost 115 to 1 in crawl and with the 4.27s I'm looking at 131 to 1. It pays tlook around and be patient. Yes, I got a real good deal, I have the reciepts for the build and know full well what went into it.
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Old 10-16-2012, 11:57 AM   #68 (permalink)
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I wasn't planning to use an O/D. With 3.73s I'm at almost 115 to 1 in crawl and with the 4.27s I'm looking at 131 to 1. It pays tlook around and be patient. Yes, I got a real good deal, I have the reciepts for the build and know full well what went into it.
I was thinking the overdrive would be nice for a middle low range. Overdrive in low would be like 3.6:1(ish), still pretty low.

1st/high range and 4th/low range still overlap a little bit with the 4.86 gears and a granny 4spd.
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Old 10-16-2012, 01:06 PM   #69 (permalink)
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I was thinking the overdrive would be nice for a middle low range. Overdrive in low would be like 3.6:1(ish), still pretty low.

1st/high range and 4th/low range still overlap a little bit with the 4.86 gears and a granny 4spd.
You are correct on the numbers. Not sure if the gear is avilable to do it.
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Old 10-16-2012, 07:15 PM   #70 (permalink)
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There is some very good tech in this thread.

Lets talk about parking brake disc conversions, I've seen a few pictures but have never read any details.

This Toyota kit could possibly be retrofitted
https://www.allprooffroad.com/pickupbrakeupgrades/33

Or possibly a go kart disc and caliper maybe?
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Old 10-16-2012, 07:38 PM   #71 (permalink)
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There is some very good tech in this thread.

Lets talk about parking brake disc conversions, I've seen a few pictures but have never read any details.

This Toyota kit could possibly be retrofitted
https://www.allprooffroad.com/pickupbrakeupgrades/33

Or possibly a go kart disc and caliper maybe?
I think it would be pretty easy. There is already a nice flat mounting surface on the rear output housing. A rotor could be cut and bolted to the back of the factory rear flange easy enough. The caliper could be just about any mechanical spot caliper.

Wilwood Mechanical Parking Brake/Spot Calipers - JEGS

If you where creative you might even be able to make a factory style cable that would be long enough to activate the caliper....
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Old 10-20-2012, 11:27 PM   #72 (permalink)
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If I have understood D18 things correctly...

Can the oem e-brake equipped D18 with the driveshaft flange mount accept a 1350 yoke?

Redrill oem e-brake flange for new flange-mount 1350 half (don't know term) that accepts 1350 caps?

Or is a whole new flange available that fits D18 e-brake rear output and uses 1350s?

Also, anything available to allow flange-mounted Toyota (FJxx) u-joints (tough for size with high angle capabilty)?
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Old 10-20-2012, 11:43 PM   #73 (permalink)
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In an older version of my Flatfender I had toyota axles, minitruck front and FJ45 full float rear.... I made a custom Flange adapter on the factory output flange to adapt it to the beefy Landcruiser driveshaft joints...if I remember it used counterbored holes and stover nuts on the factory studs and tapped fine thread holes for the toyota flange bolts..
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Old 10-27-2012, 11:46 PM   #74 (permalink)
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Was the flange info more of a hardcore forum question?


So far, this thread has great info I'm soaking up, but still needs the usual info to be a full-reference bible:

1. All gear sets available.
2. What ODs and PTOs work with what gear sets at the PTO output. Who has the mating gears (some sources mentioned already).
3. For each aftermarket gear set, what exact mods must be done to a D18 case and a D20 case and does the OEM vehicle make/model's case source matter? (universal Jeep/full-size jeep D18 vs. D20 plus Bronco D20, etc.). O'brien's Gears should get most of the attention here.
4. Is AA tapered roller bearing intermediate shaft still available and what is necessary to install it into each of the OEM, O'Brien, Tera gear sets assuming a 1.25in intermediate shaft bore case.
5. Best/strongest input/output shafts available whether new, NOS, or used oem spicer.
6. Any issues with aftermarket gear sets: weaknesses, noisy, etc.
7. Comprehensive shifter options/mods, etc.
8. Front output driveshaft connection options: Yoke/flange, 1350/other up-sizes, etc.
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Old 10-28-2012, 12:05 AM   #75 (permalink)
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Interesting idea. Homemade, too. Thanks.

Now to google Stover Nuts...

...ah, the common type of top-locking nut. Great.
Quote:
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In an older version of my Flatfender I had toyota axles, minitruck front and FJ45 full float rear.... I made a custom Flange adapter on the factory output flange to adapt it to the beefy Landcruiser driveshaft joints...if I remember it used counterbored holes and stover nuts on the factory studs and tapped fine thread holes for the toyota flange bolts..
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