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Old 01-23-2013, 09:30 PM   #51 (permalink)
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I decided to hack the old floor out because it really wasn't worth saving.

I'm brainstorming about how to go back together. I'm thinking about making the bed 6" wider and maybe raising the floor.
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Old 01-23-2013, 09:55 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Lots of choices. The extra wheelbase will be nice, but as long as you keep it low it should wheel just fine. I was VERY surprised with my 85" wheelbase.

I would raise the rear wheel tubs with the rear floor. With the wheel tubs sticking out past the outer edge of the frame shock mounting becomes a sucky adventure.
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Old 01-23-2013, 10:07 PM   #53 (permalink)
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That's one problem I have with the springs I bought: RE 4.5 YJ springs. I need to swap them for some 1.5" lift YJ springs to lower this thing down some. The belly is sitting at 23" now which is much higher than I wanted going into this.

Good advice on raising the rear tubs too. I will make sure to do that.
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Old 01-24-2013, 10:19 PM   #54 (permalink)
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I moved the rear forward 6" tonight, so the WB is now 88, give or take. It sits way too tall though. I'm looking for some 1.5" lift YJ springs or even some stock like yj leafs to lower it down.

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Old 01-24-2013, 10:23 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Last one for the night...
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Old 01-25-2013, 05:25 AM   #56 (permalink)
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I built a pretty light weight YJ for a friend with a used set of those springs and they worked great. Instead of swapping out the springs why not french the mounts into the frame? If it is still to tall pull out a leaf or two when the build is a little further along.
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Old 01-25-2013, 06:05 AM   #57 (permalink)
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I reversed the shackles in the front and frenched the shackle hangers into the frame. I haven't been able to see a way to get the main eyes frenched in the front and still mount the steering box.

Maybe I am missing how to do it from staring at it too much. Haha
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Old 01-25-2013, 06:42 AM   #58 (permalink)
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Go with a mid 80's Ford steering box or Astro Van box. Looks like a perfect fit with a 4.3. I plan to use the Ford box on my new build.

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Old 01-25-2013, 07:38 AM   #59 (permalink)
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Thanks! That's a good idea...move the box back and make room for the hangers.
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Old 01-25-2013, 08:14 AM   #60 (permalink)
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Depending on where the axle ends up you could also use a scout or toyota fj60/80 style steering box. They are outside the frame with a forward facing pitman arm.

On the front springs. Be careful of the angle of the spring between mounting points, basically the slope of the spring. I haven't been able to find any suspension engineering information, but I think the slope of the spring basically helps define roll axis. I think as the spring becomes too flat you start to go into roll oversteer ( twitchy steering ). If you have too much angle you start to go into roll understeer ( vauge steering wheel feel ). The arch of the spring also has to have something to do with it but also can't find any info. On link suspensions people tend to favor a slight roll understeer condition. This makes the vehicle track down the road well without a lot of constant steering input. Of couse, caster, roll center, steering geometry, etc all come into play. Ok, enough sciency engineering babble.

Also....

Watch the spring slope since it will have an effect on caster

Watch that you don't get the spring so close to the frame you run out of room for the drag link to sneak through.
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Old 01-25-2013, 08:44 AM   #61 (permalink)
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Thanks, Mieser. Currently, the slope of the spring is being determined by the factory perches on the Waggy axle. I set the caster at 6 degrees, and the pinion angle is at about 3 degrees.

The rear (shackle) eye of the spring is 5 inches below the main eye. I let the caster and pinion angle dictate the slope of the spring.

I had read your posts in other threads about spring slope and its effect on handling, but I was just hoping that this wouldn't be enough to cause odd quirks.

If I leave it like it is, these RE springs ought to squat an inch with weight on them which would put the belly at 22". I don't guess that is terrible. I may 'wheel it like that and like it just fine. If not, I can just swap in a flatter spring later and slam it down.

The Ultimate A-1 Pewe built was super tall best I remember, and it didn't cartwheel off of hills.


I think I'll get to work on the tub and finishing up the frame details now-steering box, gussets, body mounts, crossmembers, etc...

Last Friday I bought a donor 02 Sonoma for the engine, and I need to get it pulled out so I can mount the powertrain and figure out the driveshafts.

Back to the rear floor idea-since it will be raised up enough to fit a decent sized tank under the floor, I think I'll build a stainless tank, so I can keep the bed area open for my tool bag and cooler.

And a final question: My SM420 did not come with a shifter. Will a stick from another transmission swap to the 420?
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Old 01-25-2013, 08:47 AM   #62 (permalink)
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I posted these pics in post 55 from my phone, but they aren't showing up.
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Old 02-13-2013, 06:49 PM   #63 (permalink)
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Subscribed! Looking good!
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Old 02-20-2013, 11:23 AM   #64 (permalink)
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Cheap harness rework and computer flash?

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Subscribed! Looking good!
Thanks! Not a lot to update lately. I have been swamped with work. I do have the intake off the engine to reseal it, and I am going to reseal the valve covers, rear main, and pan gasket just to be safe.

I had to put a new PS pump on it because the can on the old one was smashed in the accident that totaled my donor truck.

I've been going over the wiring harness by hand, trying to figure out if I want to tackle that myself or not. I have done a TBI harness, but nothing newer. For time's sake, I'll probably farm it out.

So far about $450 has been the cheapest I've seen for a harness rework and a computer flash for the 4.3. Anyone know of anything cheaper?
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Old 02-21-2013, 05:02 AM   #65 (permalink)
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Jims Performance is always nice to deal with and a super nice guy. I have also used several Howell harnesses and have nothing but good things to say about them.
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Old 02-21-2013, 01:28 PM   #66 (permalink)
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Jims Performance is always nice to deal with and a super nice guy. I have also used several Howell harnesses and have nothing but good things to say about them.
Thanks! I used Jim's for the 5.3 in my old buggy, and he was always good to deal with. He even got back with me one weekend when I was having a small wiring issue several hours from home.

I may just go back with him.
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Old 02-22-2013, 10:07 AM   #67 (permalink)
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I've been dreaming of Moab today at work, and it's getting me motivated again. There's nothing like the feeling of being out there (1500 miles from home for me) on the slickrock, listening to the gear whine with the sun and fresh air in my face.

I will snap some pics of the engine tonight and hopefully, I'll get it somewhat buttoned up this weekend. Then I can put together the whole combo. and get to mounting it in the frame.

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Old 02-23-2013, 11:39 AM   #68 (permalink)
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I'm really enjoying this build. I'm kind of starting over on my cj5 and I'm in the process of building a new frame. I'm also doing the stacked tube method. Have you tested the body on the frame yet? I'm curious if the body sits lower on the new frame versus the old frame. I'm going low cog with a soa (frenched mounts) and I'm trying to account for future clearance issues.
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Old 02-24-2013, 07:34 PM   #69 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I'm really enjoying this build. I'm kind of starting over on my cj5 and I'm in the process of building a new frame. I'm also doing the stacked tube method. Have you tested the body on the frame yet? I'm curious if the body sits lower on the new frame versus the old frame. I'm going low cog with a soa (frenched mounts) and I'm trying to account for future clearance issues.
Thanks a lot! I really am having trouble staying motivated with this one.

The body is mounted on it now. I think the body sits pretty much in the same place as stock with this type of frame.
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Old 02-24-2013, 07:37 PM   #70 (permalink)
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New pics

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Old 02-24-2013, 07:40 PM   #71 (permalink)
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More pics...

Donor truck
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Old 03-22-2013, 08:24 PM   #72 (permalink)
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Updates, I know you are working faster than me!

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Old 03-23-2013, 11:16 AM   #73 (permalink)
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I wish I had much to update but it has been slow. I have resealed the engine and am waiting on flywheel bolts before I can mate the powertrain.then I'll mount everything in the frame.

Yesterday I did cut out a whole new floor for the front. I also cut out the battery box because it was too far gone.

Baby steps I guess.

Last edited by craigellis77; 03-31-2013 at 09:25 PM.
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Old 03-31-2013, 09:16 PM   #74 (permalink)
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Progress...

I finished resealing the engine, mounted the flywheel and clutch, sealed the top cover on the transmission, cleaned the transfer case, mounted it to the adapter, and started swinging it all between the frame rails.

Next is mounting the grill, ordering and mounting a radiator, and getting the powertrain where it needs to be so I can make mounts.

Preliminarily, a flat belly that's flush with the frame rails ain't happening. We'll see after I know better where things are going to go.
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Old 03-31-2013, 09:19 PM   #75 (permalink)
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Pics...

First is an extra Sm420 to d300 adapter I need to sell. $175 obo
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