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Old 07-02-2016, 05:00 AM   #226 (permalink)
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more hunting and picking.....

Found one of the final pieces to the puzzle - a good low mileage motor! Also scored some sheet metal in very nice shape. The tailgate, although tough to see due to the surface rust, is nearly mint. One of the nicest I've stumbled upon. Same for the fenders. Only minor patches needed. The ones i have from the blue jeep are decent enough. But i couldn't pass these up.

Time to assemble and install a drivetrain..... More to come.
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Old 07-11-2016, 07:30 PM   #227 (permalink)
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Motor is "restored"

I had to swap to a 3A motor plate and a 2 groove pulley. So I just tore the whole motor down for inspection and re-gasket. Out of the three exhaust manifolds I have, I found only one not cracked. Refurbished the PVC system. The plasti-gauge gave me good news. The motor is like new inside. I had the oil pan restored. But decided at the last minute to use a skid plate pan off the parts motor. I'll restore that pan and button up the motor this week.

Curiously I found this is a "u" motor. I could find no info on it on any CJ2A or 3A data base. Come to find out this is a motor from a utility wagon, hence the "u"

Boy this is really turning into a mongrel.....

53 CJ3B frame
46 axles (I think)
78 CJ brakes
70's wheels
early 46 body
47-8 ish wagon motor
48 T-90
46 D18
and a partridge in a pear tree......
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Old 07-11-2016, 07:48 PM   #228 (permalink)
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Sweet!
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Old 07-18-2016, 04:10 AM   #229 (permalink)
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making progress....

Drivetrain is all buttoned up. New clutch and rebuilt t-case. Trans is a good used take out. Once I got the drivetrain dropped in the chassis, I realized I installed the wrong flywheel. So I'm dropping off the correct one at the machine shop today. Oh well. Have to pay for my dumb mistake.

My next project is to fab up alternator and PS pump mounts. The Jeep came with both. But they are sketchy at best. So I'm going to redo them. Once that's done, brake refurb and lines.
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Old 07-19-2016, 02:33 PM   #230 (permalink)
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Really looking great! I really like the balance you've made between stocker and upgraded elements. Very cool!
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Old 07-19-2016, 07:26 PM   #231 (permalink)
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Really looking great! I really like the balance you've made between stocker and upgraded elements. Very cool!
Thanks!

I really just want it safe and easy enough for my wife to drive now and again. i figure power steering and good brake are a must.
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Old 07-23-2016, 04:16 PM   #232 (permalink)
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Flywheel swap is done. In doing so, I discovered some issues with the T-90. It's wasted. So with help from a friend, I sourced another trans. He dropped it off and I started to clean it up. Found a 1955 date code on the trans. The t-case is a later model with the 1.25 intermediate shaft. So I just swapped everything out. It's an all around upgrade.

No pics, as well, it looks exactly the same..
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Old 07-27-2016, 07:28 PM   #233 (permalink)
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Great build thread. Loved hearing the story and history with everything.
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Old 07-28-2016, 10:36 AM   #234 (permalink)
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Great build thread. Loved hearing the story and history with everything.
Thanks! Hope to post more soon.
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Old 08-05-2016, 06:54 PM   #235 (permalink)
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It's official. I HATE this f***ing Jeep!!!!

God damn it if everything I touch isn't a nightmare. This list is endless. But I've overcome all the little nuances. Tonight, I've lost my patience.

So time for the brake rehab and general front end maintenance. Driver side comes apart beautifully. Axle shaft is great. Bearings look excellent. So new seals rotors and brake bits - good to go.

Passenger side - not so much. Drive flange takes some work to get off. Stub shaft splines are pretty chewed up. But other than that, everything is looking good. Well that is until it's time to remove the axle shaft. It will not budge! I've thrown everything at this thing and i can not get this shaft out. I've built 60's, 14 bolts, Rockwells and even big truck axles. This little 25 has defeated me.

Any ideas/tricks to get this shaft out?

My other option is to just swap the 25 from the roller into the new chassis. Damn Jeeps.
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Old 08-06-2016, 04:16 AM   #236 (permalink)
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You think it is "rusted" in? Plenty of hard hubs to pull, but never a shaft....
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Old 08-06-2016, 04:52 AM   #237 (permalink)
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You think it is "rusted" in? Plenty of hard hubs to pull, but never a shaft....
I don't think so. Inside the diff looks super clean, no rust. I'm guessing the splines were boogered up and someone in the past hammered the shaft home.

I have an idea i'm going to try later that might work. If not.....I'm scrapping the bitch!
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Old 08-06-2016, 06:19 AM   #238 (permalink)
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Wah wah wah
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Old 08-06-2016, 08:20 AM   #239 (permalink)
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Wah wah wah
I know right! That was a little bitchy wasn't it.
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Old 08-06-2016, 08:22 AM   #240 (permalink)
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What about a slide hammer puller?
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Old 08-06-2016, 08:32 AM   #241 (permalink)
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What about a slide hammer puller?
Tried that. I'm rigging up something shortly to see if I can draw it out using some threaded rod and parts of a puller.

The stub shaft is the issue now that I think about it. Getting the flange off took some work. So I bet someone pounded the flange on, thereby jamming the inner. I'm hopeful if this works that the lock rite will be ok. We'll see....
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Old 08-06-2016, 05:20 PM   #242 (permalink)
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Well I got the f***er out. I rigged up a "tool' using 1/2 inch threaded rod, some box tube and some old shackles that were destined for the scrap pile. As hard as i tried it wouldn't budge. All I was doing was bending metal. So I re-positioned the tool one last time, and low and behold it began to move.

Call it New England ingenuity. Call it cheap ass bastards. Maybe it was even a trail fix. Who knows. But the inner shaft was so bent, twisted and mangled, I'm shocked anyone would attempt to reuse it. Not only was it attempted. But someone spend a shit ton of time grinding the splines to a point so they could be started in the diff. I can only assume they POUNDED it home.

I've never seen anything like it. I'm going to figure out a unique way to display this shaft in the shop. It was the one that almost made me quit!

Anyway, good news is that the locker is fine. All the other front end parts are in nice shape. So no real worries there.

This little f***er is really giving me a run for my money. Lord only knows what I will find when I dig into the rear brakes....
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Old 08-06-2016, 06:13 PM   #243 (permalink)
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YIKES!!!!!

way to keep after it....well all you can say is the person who pounded it home is cheaper than a whole lot of us and we knows we is cheap!!!
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Old 08-08-2016, 02:35 PM   #244 (permalink)
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Did you ever see the commercial where the guy is saying " it 'll fit, we'll make it fit!" And then they show two actual monkeys beating a battery into place with hammers?
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Old 08-16-2016, 08:38 PM   #245 (permalink)
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Awesome build(s). You're big flatly is one of my all time favorites.
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Old 08-18-2016, 08:23 AM   #246 (permalink)
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Wondering if that axle came from a Monroe LOL
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Old 08-21-2016, 05:44 PM   #247 (permalink)
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Well thanks for all the heckling, encouragement and laughs.

So this week's score.....vintage Warn OD.

It came to me in pieces. But amazingly, every last bit needed to assemble it is here. Someone in the past put this together with a boatload of orange RTV. So i dismantled it all and cleaned it very carefully. The guts are in great shape. For once, i actually remember how things come apart and go back together. So, just waiting for a gasket kit and it will be ready to replace the pretty tin cap on the back of the 18.

Front axle is nearly completed. Nothing exciting to take pictures of. But new rotors, calipers, pads, inner bearing, felts and so on...

This is actually getting fun again!
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Old 08-28-2016, 04:38 AM   #248 (permalink)
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Well the stars aligned and the Willys gods decided to give me a break! Everything has gone very smoothly these last couple days!

The Warn OD came together nicely and installed with no issues.

E-brake refurb was fast and simple. Although I did have to swap a different rear bearing retainer onto this t-case. The pivot pin was missing and when it went missing it took a chunk of the retainer with it.

The front end is done. The other day I tore the garage apart for two hours looking for the new Warn hubs i bought. I couldn't find them anywhere! Then i realized, I never bought them.... They are due to arrive today. It took me a while to find the John Deere corn head grease for the knuckles. But i finally got some on Amazon. This stuff is very cool. Liquid in motion, grease at rest. Should keep knuckle leaks to a minimum.

Alternator mount is done. I discovered the generator pulley fit the GM alternator. So i'm able to use the wide belt for the charging system. The PS will run off the narrow pulley side of the crank pulley. Overall, worked out well. The PS mount is a modified GM unit. It's the same mount i use on the crawler's small block. It was actually a pretty easy mount to make.

I'm pleased with what i got done. It didn't fight me at all!!

I may attempt the radiator mount today. Notice I'm avoiding those rear brakes. I hear them laughing at me at night.....
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Last edited by nofender; 08-28-2016 at 03:57 PM.
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Old 08-28-2016, 08:42 AM   #249 (permalink)
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Great build thread! I just sold one of my motorcycles to buy some jeep parts, but man now you've really got me thinking I should add disc brakes to the purchase list.
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Old 08-28-2016, 03:23 PM   #250 (permalink)
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Great build thread! I just sold one of my motorcycles to buy some jeep parts, but man now you've really got me thinking I should add disc brakes to the purchase list.
There are plenty of kits out there. But they can be pricey.

You can do it on the cheap though. This set up is all stock CJ parts. 78-79ish CJ had a bolt on caliper bracket. That's all you need. It'll bolt to the 25/27. Use CJ thick rotors from the same vintage as well as calipers and you are in business. I have maybe $200 into these new parts.

If you can't find a CJ caliper bracket (they can be tough to find) you can use a GM 1/2 ton caliper bracket and caliper. Use the thick CJ rotors and BOOM, you got discs.

Wagoneer caliper brackets and calipers work too.

Some grinding here and there for clearance and you are good to go. I have t dug into the rear on mine. But I already know they are GM. So I'll post up what I find there. Again, for rears, there are some pretty simple bolt and weld on options. Don't go paying crazy money fir a "kit" With some picking and hunting, you can do it cheap.... Or at least cheaper.

Last edited by nofender; 08-28-2016 at 03:37 PM.
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