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Old 05-01-2018, 08:32 AM   #226 (permalink)
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Are you using rubber or poly motor mounts?
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Old 05-01-2018, 11:50 AM   #227 (permalink)
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Are you using rubber or poly motor mounts?
Both are rubber at the moment. If the engine wants to torque and move too much, I will probably switch to the trail-gear bombproof mounts. If that doesn't help, I have a solid mount for the driver side, but that is a last resort.
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Old 05-02-2018, 07:06 AM   #228 (permalink)
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I'd say using the trail-gear mounts would certainly reduce the chance of any issues arising from the MAF being mounted to the body rather than the engine. Now if you wanted to get really fancy a MAF mount with some allowable range of motion would be slick.
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Old 05-02-2018, 02:28 PM   #229 (permalink)
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There is a decent amount of flex in the 3 silicone boots that hold the intake tube together. I do think that the trail-gear mounts are good insurance.

After all of the fun I had making the PS reservoir bracket, I decided to push my skills a bit farther. I needed an airbox/MAF sensor bracket, so I started cutting cardboard.





And through the magic of the interweb....poof! Cardboard becomes steel. I made it all from one piece of steel. I transferred my cardboard template measurements into CAD, and then folded the sheet metal like origami. It took quite a bit of massaging to fit like I wanted but I'm happy with the result.





And here's the payoff. It fit! Clears the hood and seems to have plenty of clearance in an already cluttered engine bay.





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Old 05-02-2018, 07:16 PM   #230 (permalink)
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Looks good. Maybe try a hump style silicone coupler to allow a little extra movement?
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Old 05-03-2018, 05:11 AM   #231 (permalink)
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As someone who designs sheetmetal parts for a living your combo of design and fab skills impress me. Also, you may have missed your true calling in life.

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Looks good. Maybe try a hump style silicone coupler to allow a little extra movement?

Or replace a section of the intake tube with a longer silicone connector. My thought is radiators are mounted to the body and those seem to do just fine with a long, flexible hose connecting them to the engine.
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Old 05-04-2018, 05:21 AM   #232 (permalink)
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Looks good. Maybe try a hump style silicone coupler to allow a little extra movement?
Good idea. I'll put one in my summit cart for my next order.

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As someone who designs sheetmetal parts for a living your combo of design and fab skills impress me. Also, you may have missed your true calling in life.

Or replace a section of the intake tube with a longer silicone connector. My thought is radiators are mounted to the body and those seem to do just fine with a long, flexible hose connecting them to the engine.
Thanks for the compliments on the sheetmetal stuff. I truly enjoy making the bracketry, not so much on the body panels. I'm gonna try the hump style connector like Meiser suggests and keep my fingers crossed.
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Old 05-04-2018, 05:32 AM   #233 (permalink)
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nice work on the sheetmetal
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Old 05-04-2018, 05:33 AM   #234 (permalink)
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More CAD work. Inner fenders are done, in cardboard form, for both sides. Now to transfer to metal.






Also, my gauges came in. GPS Speedo with tach and turn signal indicators. Temp and oil pressure, and the fuel gauge is programmable to the cj sending unit. Woot woot!

what are those gauges ?
looks great
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Old 05-04-2018, 06:14 AM   #235 (permalink)
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very nice build, Great job!
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Old 05-04-2018, 07:36 AM   #236 (permalink)
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what are those gauges ?
looks great
Thanks! The gauges are from Speedhut.

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Old 07-22-2018, 10:04 AM   #237 (permalink)
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It's been a while since my last update. Time to get caught up. Been doing a few side jobs for some money for jeep parts. Built a metal door for a friend's business, and installed a 4in lift, SYE and cv driveshaft on another friends TJ. Those monies went towards brake line stuff and my hydro-assist. The rest will prob go towards keyed steering arms for my yota knuckles and maybe a steering box rebuild. Gonna try to stretch it as far as possible.

I whipped up some frameside brake line mounts from some 1/8" steel from the scrap pile at my buddies shop.



I ordered up a roll of the NI-Copp brake line from Summit, and a bunch of misc tube nuts and such. I'm running Trail-gear extended lines. This is how the driverside came out. Sorry about the pic quality.



Next was the passenger front. This one was a bit more difficult. From the T block it goes up over the back of the master, then under the lip of the cowl, down to the passenger framerail and then out to the bracket/soft line.







All lines will be hard mounted with insulated P clamps.
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Old 07-22-2018, 10:05 AM   #238 (permalink)
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More work on the brake lines. Picked up a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve for the rear brake circuit. Got that mounted after I whipped up a bracket from some scrap 14g. It took 4 tries to bend the 6" piece the goes from the master to the prop valve. I like to say that I figured out how not to make it 3 different ways. All of the brake lines are ran, I just need to get the P clamps installed to call that job done.



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Old 07-22-2018, 10:07 AM   #239 (permalink)
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Haven't done much lately due to work and vacation, but I got a little done the last few days. First off, I decided to put a window a.c. unit in my shop. It's not big enough to make it cold, but it's big enough to cut the humidity a bit and cool it down a little. The best part is the relief it provides when I get overheated.



It's really hard getting 4 friends together to help remove the cage, or the body, so I decided to install a hoist in my shop. I took an old 8274 winch plate, leftover from the 4runner, and mounted it on the second floor of my barn. I rigged up an old atv winch and ran it through the floor and down into my shop.





I tried to find wiring at home depot that would work, but 4-19 thhn isn't rated for the amps that the winch could pull under heavy load. The winch could potentially pull 170 amps, so I found a 20ft set of jumper cables rated for 300amps. An old battery and the redneck hoist was born.



The first test was to pull the cage. It was a success, no drama at all.



I had the oldest boy come down to the barn to give me a hand building a table. We put casters on the bottom, so it could be moved around for other projects that pop up.



Next up was to pull the body. I bought some eyebolts and ran them through the body mount holes and used that as my lifting points. I used ratchet straps to lift the tub, they gave me the ability to adjust the load so it would raise up flat...ish.







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Old 07-22-2018, 11:54 AM   #240 (permalink)
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I tried to find wiring at home depot that would work, but 4-19 thhn isn't rated for the amps that the winch could pull under heavy load.
I bet that any load heavy enough to pull that much, would pull the winch down though the ceiling. For a couple-few hundred pounds, 4ga woulda been fine.
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Old 07-23-2018, 09:08 AM   #241 (permalink)
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I can't wait to see this on the trail!!!! Do us all a favor and please do not cut this thing up and take a new direction again
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Old 08-29-2018, 05:16 AM   #242 (permalink)
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Got some more done over the past few days. I believe that I have finished body fabrication....man, it feels good to type that. Next up is to finish weld the frame and axles, and then paint and reassemble. Anyway, here's the underside of the tub with all of the doublers for the seats and seatbelts welded in.





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Old 08-29-2018, 05:21 AM   #243 (permalink)
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Also, I took the rig up to the muffler shop the other day. I furnished the flowmaster delta flow 40 and the flex pipe. They bent up the tube and welded on the hangers. Let's just say that they made a functional exhaust, however, I was not impressed with the mounting. I wanted a cleaner mounting method, so I decided to re-do some of their work. The mount in the foreground is their mount, the one in the back is my version.









Welding vertical down can make anybody look like they know how to use a welding machine.



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Old 10-05-2018, 08:35 AM   #244 (permalink)
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Time to get up to date. The frame has been finish welded, primed, painted, and assembly has begun.














Last edited by lurch9; 10-05-2018 at 08:36 AM.
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Old 10-05-2018, 08:49 AM   #245 (permalink)
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Also torched out a flat belly skid and picked up some 3/8" UHMW to skin the skid.







Finish welded the rear axle, new rear brake lines, bumpstops, and a coat of flat black. Also started breaking down my Alcan leaf packs for cleaning, paint and new delrin leaf tip inserts. Bumps are from a 99ish chebby 1500.











Front axle is waiting on flat keyed arms, knuckle machining and 25mm pins and bearings from Front Range Off-road, also knuckle wipers and seals from Marlin.

Last edited by lurch9; 10-05-2018 at 08:51 AM.
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Old 10-05-2018, 12:36 PM   #246 (permalink)
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nice update! looks fantastic
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Old 10-09-2018, 05:42 PM   #247 (permalink)
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nice update! looks fantastic
Thanks. I really appreciate the kind words .

Not alot of progress to show, but a couple small steps forward. The steering box is mounted, WTOR took care of the rebuild and the drill and tap for hydro assist. Also got the pitman arm painted and installed. Pitman arm just barely clears the winch skid by about 1/8" at full lock.



Also made some u-bolt keepers. Since I'm running square u-bolts in a u-bolt flip orientation, these things keep the u-bolts from sliding fore and aft on the spring. Started on the milling machine.





And then lots of carving with the finger sander. Holes are setup to allow pushing the axle forward or back by 1".



Also, my spring tip inserts from Alcan showed up today, and I got a confirmation that my knuckles and hi-steer arms are on their way. Might have a roller some time next week !
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Old 10-16-2018, 07:12 AM   #248 (permalink)
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Rear axle is in, and the gas tank skid is in. The UHMW was easy to work with and I used woodworking tools to shape it, circular saw, router, and drill bits and countersinks. Also got the rear shocks in. On to the pics!











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Old 10-16-2018, 08:28 AM   #249 (permalink)
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great work on the details--it gets hard to keep doing 100% best you can at this stage of the game, cuz you just want to get to driving it...keep it up.
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Old 10-19-2018, 01:26 PM   #250 (permalink)
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great work on the details--it gets hard to keep doing 100% best you can at this stage of the game, cuz you just want to get to driving it...keep it up.
Thanks man. It's very hard resisting the urge to just throw it together and run it. Luckily waiting on parts has given me some time to work on a few things that I was dreading.

Speaking of waiting on parts, still waiting on my knuckles and flat steering arms from FROR. So I've been working on stuff to get ready for their arrival. I pulled the third member and did a homebrew stud eliminator kit. I replace the studs with Allen head bolts fed through from the inside. Instead of relying solely on the threads of the studs, there is a bolt head on the backside creating a much stronger clamping force on the carrier/housing area.

My steering stops were pretty mangled, and lots of love from a big hammer just didn't do the trick. So I chopped them off and made some new ones. The old ones were 3/16" flat bar, the new ones are fully boxed and made from 1/4" material.



Also fit up my mini truss, not welded yet due to possible ram clearance issues. I need the knuckles and steering arms to set the tie rod in its final position, so I can finalize the ram location.... I hope that makes sense.



At the local fall CJ swap meet I sold my low back Corbeau front seats to a fella that's building a stretched cj5... he's crazy! I sold them bc I'm freakishly tall and my torso is where most of my height is. I didn't quite fit the seats, or the seats didn't quite fit me. Anyways, I shopped around all of the suspension seat places, comparing the dimensions listed vs what I needed, and ended up with a pair of Mastercraft Rubicon front seats. I got them in Brown/black bc I've been thinking about paint options and I don't think I'm going OD green anymore.

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