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Old 02-01-2014, 05:53 PM   #51 (permalink)
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I need some opinions from y'all. I'm torn as to how to run my passenger side exhaust. I have a rear dump manifold that I could use and I could run the exhaust down the inside of the passenger side framerail. That option will could possibly open up a can of worms. I will have to notched the floor and make the trans tunnel larger for the exhaust clearance, possible heat transfer into the passenger floorboard area, plumbing my trans cooler lines(stuck a th350 in there, not in my updates yet). That is option one, sorry no pics of the proposed idea.
Option 2. Rear dump driver side pancake manifold on passenger side. Run exhaust under front of oil pan and tie into driver side exhaust just after the manifold. I like this idea better because plumbing the trans will be easier, more room to run exhaust down the inside of the driver framerail, no real chance of having clearance issues with front driveline. Only issue is I have to redesign pass frame side motor mount but the space is somewhat limited. Here's a pic. Opinions are greatly appreciated. Thanks


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Old 02-01-2014, 09:09 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Nice work
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Old 02-02-2014, 04:53 PM   #53 (permalink)
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Before you get too carried away re-doing your motor mount, look at the exhaust manifolds on a 3100 V6 in a FWD application. I once put a 231 in a 2a with a very thin homemade adapter. It was a budget job on a rig that never left a 1/2 acre area and I didn't want the expense of new driveshafts so I mounted the engine accordingly-firewall be damned. I don't recall exactly what I used, but I got a manifold off of a junkyard FWD Buick that had two outlets. I had to block one off, but the other allowed me to route the exhaust out of harms way.

Last edited by pbbelly; 02-02-2014 at 04:54 PM.
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Old 02-06-2014, 06:42 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Slow progress lately. I've been spending a lot of time trying to get my H1's recentered. Had to spend all day Monday running new PVC pipe in my buddy's shop. Ended up replacing over 120 ft due to the pipes freezing and bursting. Got everything plumbed back together and spent a few hours today torching out my rock rings. Burned out a few tabs also, just trying to reduce scrap.


Last edited by lurch9; 02-06-2014 at 06:43 PM.
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Old 03-31-2014, 08:15 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Update time. I finally got my H1s finished up. These things are heavy. Ill run them for a while and see how I like them.



I also finally have a roller! Very nice having the ability to get it out of the garage for other projects.



Gonna need to trim the rear fenderwell just a tad. Also managed to get a flat belly with the TH350 and the Dana 300 clocked up with the Novak adapter.

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Old 03-31-2014, 08:22 PM   #56 (permalink)
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Shot of the steering box mount from Advance Adapters.



Trackbar bent to clear the astro box.



New floor coming together, and trans and t-case mocked up.



Stuck the front sheetmetal on to measure for strut towers and to start fabbing radiator mounts.

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Old 08-21-2014, 07:25 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Time to resurrect this build. I've been busy the past couple months. Havent had much time in the garage. My stepson is is starting to get very interested in the willys, which helps me get motivated to work on it. Im leaning towards dropping a 350 in it because I just dont think the 3.8 is gonna have enough grunt to make me happy. I also feel like making it fuel injected would be easier. Aftermarket support for a 350 is excellent and I think with block hugger headers it would fit nicely. What do yall think?
All of my mounts are tacked in and wouldn't be to hard to move. I dont mind notching the firewall and I also plan on stretching the hood about 3" and building tube fenders (regardless of engine choice).

Im truly on the fence. Does the work justify the power gains? If geared correctly would the 3.8 be enough?
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Old 08-22-2014, 10:13 AM   #58 (permalink)
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V6's are a waste of time. I went through two 4.3's in mine before I put a V8 in...
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Old 08-22-2014, 10:25 AM   #59 (permalink)
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V6's are a waste of time. I went through two 4.3's in mine before I put a V8 in...
I like my 5.0.
Plenty of power on demand, reasonable economy because it's pulling so little weight.
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Old 10-26-2016, 10:34 AM   #60 (permalink)
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Wow! Where does the time go? Well, I'm back at it, but my direction has changed, yet again. Update time. Life has gotten busy over the past few years. I got remarried, had a baby, bought some land, built a house, and finally pulled the M38 out of storage. I got our barn setup as a shop so now I get a few hours a week to make progress. I had sold off all of my parts except for the frame and tub. So now I was on the hunt for a donor rig of sorts. I really like the lightweight, lcog, deep crawl ratio, with 37-38" tires. I was looking for something that I could wheel currently and not feel bad about stripping the running gear out of and sending the body to the crusher. I found an 89 4runner with a bunch of goodies and a beat body. Perfect. So now my plan was to build my current frame to accept the toyota guts.

The donor

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Old 10-26-2016, 10:41 AM   #61 (permalink)
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Donor specs:

Fuel injected 22re
5 speed
Dual cases, 2.28 front case and 4.7 rear case
4.88 axles with v6 thirds, Detroit rear, toyota e-locker front.
Alcan springs
Disk brakes front and rear with a fj80 master cylinder.

I'm currently wheeling it until I get to the point of pulling parts to put on the willys.
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Old 10-26-2016, 10:50 AM   #62 (permalink)
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So, with the new donor and the old frame I had to figure out my direction. The toyota crawls well, so I decided to stick with the toyota leafs all the way around. They are Alcans and flex well, so then I needed to make the frame accept the leafs. I also had to factor in my wife and 2 boys. Now I needed a 4 seater. It needed more stretch. It is now a custom-custom frame.

Chopped in half. I shed a single tear



Stretch pieces installed



New frame fishplates for strength and to french in the leaf spring hangers



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Old 10-26-2016, 10:57 AM   #63 (permalink)
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I almost forgot about your build. I was secretly hoping it would end up as a beast like mine turned out!

Welcome back!

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-...da-bruise.html
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Old 10-26-2016, 10:59 AM   #64 (permalink)
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Here's the tubular crossmember in the rear




A little mock up for inspiration. Cardboard is a 38" diameter showing where the rear wheel well will be




And from the front. Because everybody like pictures

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Old 10-26-2016, 11:02 AM   #65 (permalink)
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The body will be very modified to make it more user friendly. The door thresholds will be lowered. The door openings will be built to resemble cj7 openings. The rear floor will be widened to install 2 suspension seats for the boys. From the bend in to door opening back will be built from scratch. It will be a mix of 1x1 and 1x2 steel tubing for a skeleton and then wrapped with 6061-T6 aluminum. Also the lower cowl panels will be skinned with 6061. The floors will be steel. Then it's on to the cage and the other stuff. This is where I'm at now. Actually, I built some body mounts the other day

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Old 10-27-2016, 10:14 PM   #66 (permalink)
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Started on the rear floor section. It's 40" wide. I widened it to put two utv suspension seats side by side for my boys. I sleeved the 1x2 rec tube with 1" quarter wall DOM. There will be a 5/8" poly bushing between the body mounts and the rec tube. To the pics.





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Old 11-09-2016, 02:44 PM   #67 (permalink)
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Making progress. Slowly but surely. Most of the floor supports are done. Most of the body mounts are tacked on. Should start framing out the rear body section soon. I got the cowl section mocked up. Fits like a glove. Lots of work left until I weld it up tho.

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Old 12-18-2016, 08:06 AM   #68 (permalink)
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Did some mock up on the tank last night. Gonna run a tank from a late 70's CJ7. I'm going to try to use the in tank pump from the toyota. It will need a custom flange, but not sure if it will even work due to the tank depth.



I raised the tank, which in turn raises the rear floor. There won't be any tank below the frame rails.



I decided to ditch the idea of framing the body with 1" square tubing and wrapping with aluminum. The hurdle was trying to frame the rear tub corners. The radius was too tight for the methods and tools I was using to create the bend. I decided to just build the tub from sheet metal. I ordered a set of taillight panels from Walcks. Next was the corners. Noone offers just the corners, and I didnt want to order a whole side panel just to butcher it with the stretch and the larger wheel well openings. Here are the new tub corners. Made of 18g steel. Had a blast making these with my old street rod buddy.




Old vs new


Last edited by lurch9; 12-19-2016 at 04:34 AM. Reason: Double pic
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Old 12-18-2016, 10:33 PM   #69 (permalink)
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Those corners turned out super! Cool build!
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Old 12-20-2016, 05:43 AM   #70 (permalink)
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Frenching the spring hangers keeps the COG low and reduces the chance of catching the hanger on a rock, correct?
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Old 12-20-2016, 06:04 AM   #71 (permalink)
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Frenching the spring hangers keeps the COG low and reduces the chance of catching the hanger on a rock, correct?
Correct. Also, the center rails of my frame are 2x6 rec tube which allows a little more room and might make it a little easier to have a flat belly
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Old 12-20-2016, 01:47 PM   #72 (permalink)
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Ah, makes sense. Thanks.
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Old 12-20-2016, 08:59 PM   #73 (permalink)
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Corners are bolted to the taillight panels and clamped to the floor supports. Progress is progress, no matter how small. Now to take measurements for adjacent panels.

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Old 12-22-2016, 12:07 PM   #74 (permalink)
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With the rear floor raised, the rear valence below the tailgate is a little taller. When the tailgate is closed it will look stock.

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Old 12-28-2016, 08:06 AM   #75 (permalink)
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I pulled a rear spring from the toyota to get a concrete location of the rear axle, so that I could lay out the radius for the rear fenderwell. Going with a 38" diameter hole to run a 37" tire with good clearance. Will also be going sua front and rear with flipped u-bolts.





Did a little work tonight. Not on the jeep, but on tooling. These are the hammerforms for the body side panels. They are made of 3/4" mdf, and the sheet metal will be clamped between the mdf panels and then hammered into shape.


Last edited by lurch9; 12-30-2016 at 08:47 AM. Reason: More info
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