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Old 04-19-2017, 11:16 AM   #126 (permalink)
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I glanced at this build back when you started, and happened to see it again today.

Holy smokes.

Amazing sheet metal work.

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Old 04-19-2017, 12:00 PM   #127 (permalink)
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I have a love hate relationship with these kind of threads

I love them because its awesome, fabwork and tips are incredible

I hate them because it shows how not awesome my fabwork is

How are you keeping the panels flat when bead rolling?

thanks for the posting the build

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Old 04-19-2017, 02:48 PM   #128 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the freeak View Post
I glanced at this build back when you started, and happened to see it again today.

Holy smokes.

Amazing sheet metal work.

Subscribed.
Thanks. This build has changed a lot from way back when I started.



Quote:
Originally Posted by arndog View Post
I have a love hate relationship with these kind of threads

I love them because its awesome, fabwork and tips are incredible

I hate them because it shows how not awesome my fabwork is

How are you keeping the panels flat when bead rolling?

thanks for the posting the build

arndog
Thanks. After the beads are put in I use a tool called a slapper. It's a wooden tool that has a flat surface that's wrapped in leather. You hit the beads flat along the bead and it helps to "relax" the metal. It still has minor tin canning but once its clamped down its not noticeable
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Old 04-20-2017, 07:20 PM   #129 (permalink)
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I've got the winch mount finished. Thanks Meiser for the dxf file. It was a big help. It's made of 3/16" steel. The dimpled side gussets are 1/8". It is sunk in between the frame rails to keep the center of gravity low and for better airflow to the radiator. I will replace the cable with synthetic line before her maiden voyage. I also finalized the location of the steering box. Everything fits nicely. Next up is to finalize the location of the grill and mount the radiator. After that is engine placement. On to the pics!






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Old 05-03-2017, 08:24 PM   #130 (permalink)
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Front fenders are now hi-lined. I followed the instructions on Meiser's Rango build. Straight forward instructions are priceless, thanks a ton. I think Im gonna build a new hood, but we will see. Heres a pic, or two.




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Old 05-03-2017, 08:26 PM   #131 (permalink)
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My buddy finally showed to give me a hand with the engine. We pulled it all as one unit. This sucker is long! It took some effort to get it in place, but it wasnt too bad. I think Im going to offset the drivetrain 1.5 inches to the passenger side. This will be done to ensure that the power brake booster has plenty of room on the already narrow firewall. It will also make more room for the steering shaft to squeak by the exhaust.





Plenty of room to slide it to the passenger side just a bit more.


M38 grill mounts are on and there is just enough room for the radiator. Im going to the U-Pull it yard tomorrrow to get a first gen toyota truck radiator. It is dimensionally the same rad as the 4runner rad, but it is 3 inches shorter. The mount flanges are the same, in/out location and size are the same, just the core is shorter.


A view from underneath. I will be able to run a completely flat belly skid. I will also integrate an engine skid to protect the oilpan.

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Old 05-03-2017, 08:38 PM   #132 (permalink)
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No problem, I am happy it all worked out.
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Old 05-06-2017, 11:27 AM   #133 (permalink)
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So after I got the engine between the framerails, I took some measurements and started laying everything out in CAD for the motor mounts. They are made from 3/16" steel, and the mount mimics the factory Toyota mount, but its much beefier. Heres a pic of the new motor mounts. The little tabs on the bottom edge of the plate help align the bolt holes as the engine slides into the mount.



Once I got the motor mounts welded up, I realized that I needed to mount the radiator, just in case I needed to slide the engine forward to make everything line up. Im glad I thought of this, because once the rad was mounted, I was able to slide the engine forward 1". That helped with firewall clearance and gives me an extra inch of rear driveshaft length. Win win.

The radiator mount is similar to the way it was on the 4runner. I am hard-mounting the rad to the grill shell with some 14ga brackets that I bent up. The grill will then be mounted with 3 poly mounts to the frame/crossmember. Heres how it turned out.



Notched around the headlight buckets. One of the headlight buckets was notched bc of flange interference, but I will weld it back up later.







Next, I threw the grill and rad in place to check for clearances and to see how the engine was gonna line up. Plenty of clearance at the steering box and the rad hoses popped right on.





After all of that, it was finally time to tack the motor mounts to the frame. Im happy with how it turned out. Up next is the trans/t-case crossmember.


Last edited by lurch9; 11-14-2017 at 09:38 AM.
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Old 05-06-2017, 12:41 PM   #134 (permalink)
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As a flatty and 3x 22re Toyota owner your setup just makes me happy. Love the work you are doing, very nice.
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Old 05-08-2017, 08:52 PM   #135 (permalink)
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My buddy started to build a Willys/22re in collage and then moved after school and the project was lost. I always loved this idea. Keep it up.
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Old 05-09-2017, 06:18 AM   #136 (permalink)
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Sweet. Like the engine choice....hence the screen name! Inspirational build.
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Old 05-15-2017, 07:15 AM   #137 (permalink)
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Still trying to make progress. Lately it seems like progress has slowed dramatically. With the engine mounted, I needed the trans to be supported. So, the next step was to make a trans crossmember. I spent a few days trying to figure out a way to mount the trans on a stand-alone crossmember. I want to be able to drop the skid, and for the trans to still be supported. This serves a few purposes. Ease of maintenance being the first purpose. The second purpose is so that if the skid takes a big hit there is no mechanical connection to the crossmember, thus reducing the chance of damaginging driveline components due to bent mounts and such. It makes sense in my head. Lol.

I spent way too much time trying to design a crossmember. The layout of the dual case mounts, the drivetrain shift, front driveshaft clearance, and the relation of everything to the bottom of the framerails left little room for error. Then my street rod buddy came by and suggested that I just use the skid from the 4runner. It is a dual case skid made by BudBuilt. He's pretty much a genius. Some slight re-engineering and it worked out really well.

The first thing we did was flatten the skid. The skid is made of 3/8" steel and it was all that the press brake could do to flatten it out. With a flat piece of steel I could then lay out the cut lines and holes for the frame side mounts. I drew my framerail dimensions on the work table and used that as a guide to mark cut lines and holes for the frame side mounts. Here's a pic right before I cut the Toyota mounting tabs off.



Next I made the frame side mounts. Made them out of 2-1/2"x1/4" angle iron. I used the ironworker to punch some slotted holes so that I would have a little side to side adjustment of the plate. I will be adding some ribbing to strengthen the plate now that the location is finalized.






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Old 05-21-2017, 06:40 AM   #138 (permalink)
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I put in a few hours the other night and got the rear axle mocked into position. The SUA mounts that I got from Barnes4wd worked out great. Nothing is tacked at the moment, so that I can refine the pinion angle once there is weight on the springs. I'm also going to hold off on mounting the shackle hangers until the cage is done and there's weight on the springs.

Barnes4wd SUA mounts




Plenty of room between the rear diff and the gas tank skid.


Side shot. Once the springs have weight on them, and flatten out a little, it should put the tire pretty close to the middle of the fenderwells.


This shows the amount of room that I have for the shock. It should fit nice and not get rubbed by the tire on full compression. We shall see.


A pic looking down the side. I really like this pic because it gives me an idea of the stance. It's inspiration to get my butt in gear and do the front. Might have a roller in the next week or two.....or three.

Last edited by lurch9; 11-14-2017 at 09:26 AM.
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Old 08-07-2017, 04:31 PM   #139 (permalink)
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Well photobucket gave my thread the Aids, I'm going to try to get everything moved to imgur and fix my busted thread. Here's the only pic I've got uploaded over there so far. Hopefully it works. I've been making progress but it's slow.


Last edited by lurch9; 08-10-2017 at 10:39 AM.
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Old 08-11-2017, 06:45 AM   #140 (permalink)
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The end of my sheetmetal journey is nearly complete. My firewall looked like Swiss cheese, so I decided to go all in and replace it. All of the firewall panels are made of 14g material. I used 14g for two key reasons, one was because I wanted the structure to withstand flexing when the pedals are pushed , and two was because I was out of 18g and had plenty of 14g laying around. First up was the CAD templates.



After getting dirty and sweating for a few hours, it magically becomes metal!


View from the engine side. Notice the little pocket for the clutch master. I did that so that I wouldn't have to mess with custom pushrod lengths and such.


Next was the passenger side. The finished firewall.




Everything is still screwed together because the front floor panels still need beads. I wanted to get seat placement and riser mount locations before forming beads. That way my risers don't fall on top of a bead.
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Old 08-13-2017, 07:20 AM   #141 (permalink)
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Excellent work!

Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk
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Old 08-13-2017, 07:32 AM   #142 (permalink)
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Looks real nice!
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Old 09-05-2017, 11:14 AM   #143 (permalink)
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Thanks for the compliments guys.

So the other night I was feeling quite burned out on sheetmetal, so I decided to dive into the job of making my front Toyota 8" axle into a spring under application. Cutting off the old brackets was a huge pain, but luckily it only has to be done once. I'm running square u-bolts under the springs so that I free up some ground clearance.

Driver side


Passenger side


Top of passenger side


Springs mocked up


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Old 09-10-2017, 03:15 PM   #144 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Well photobucket gave my thread the Aids, I'm going to try to get everything moved to imgur and fix my busted thread. Here's the only pic I've got uploaded over there so far. Hopefully it works. I've been making progress but it's slow.

i hope photobucket goes bankrupt...
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Old 09-30-2017, 04:23 PM   #145 (permalink)
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I've more or less finished up the body fabrication. Many, many holes punched and drilled, and lots and lots of spot welds. Heres a pic of the inside of the tub. I still need to grind down the welds and lay on some more primer.



The access holes are there so I can grease the u-joints without dropping the skid.




I had a buddy come by and help me put the engine back in. I wanted to make sure that the path I had in mind for the steering column didn't interfere with the header. This is the first time the engine and front axle have been in at the same time. Plenty of clearance between the engine and front diff.



And a pic right before I left the shop. For inspiration blah, blah, blah. Lol

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Old 10-24-2017, 05:59 PM   #146 (permalink)
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I started working on getting the seats mounted up. I started with the rear bench for my boys. I added a piece of 1-1/4" angle at the bottom leading edge of the risers. This gives me some storage for small tool bags and such, and the angle keeps the stuff from sliding out from under the seat.



Same thing on the front. Front seats have sliders for when the wife wants to drive. Probably gonna mount the fire extinguisher on the outside riser.



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Old 10-24-2017, 06:37 PM   #147 (permalink)
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Dig it!

How does the floor feel for the drivers right foot?
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Old 10-24-2017, 06:51 PM   #148 (permalink)
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After the driver seat was installed, it was time to work on the steering column and mounts . I ordered a nostalgia column from speedway motors in the 32" flavor. Once I figured out where it needed to go, I used a holesaw and cut a 1-3/4" hole in my nice new firewall, then slid the column in.

Here's the parts for the firewall mount. 1-3/4" exhaust clamp and some 1-1/4" angle.



Here it is assembled with the column mounted.



Here it is from the top with the lower shaft installed. I still need to cut a plate for the small carrier bearing on the lower shaft.




AND here's a side shot and a front shot of the front shock tower.



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Old 10-24-2017, 06:58 PM   #149 (permalink)
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Dig it!

How does the floor feel for the drivers right foot?
Everything feels comfortable. With the drivetrain pushed to the passenger side, the driver has a good bit of room. I'll get a pic of my feet in the footwell area next time I'm at the barn
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Old 10-25-2017, 10:06 PM   #150 (permalink)
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Here are the pics of the driver side footwell area. No gas pedal yet but there is plenty of room. First pic is just the floor, second pic is a pair of wore out size 12s, left foot on the clutch and right foot where the gas pedal will be.



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