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Old 10-26-2017, 09:23 AM   #151 (permalink)
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great job on the fab work--getting closer and closer...chris
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Old 10-26-2017, 05:22 PM   #152 (permalink)
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great job on the fab work--getting closer and closer...chris
Thanks for the compliment. I wish I could say the end is near, but I feel like there is still a ton to do


After I finished up the lower column mount, it was time to tackle the upper mount. My dash looked like Swiss cheese, so I cut it out and planned to replace with fresh sheetmetal. This is the hole in the dash.



This is the panel that I whipped up. I used a pipe notch calculator to figure out the profile of the tube passing through the sheetmetal at 57 degrees. I also put a step on the edges to have a backer for some spot welds. It turned out very nice.



And in the hole.



I slid the column in, and down through the firewall mount. Very pleased with how it looks. Next I needed to figure out how to mount it to the dash.



This is the bracket I came up with. 14g bent at 57 degrees and another 1-3/4" exhaust clamp.



Bolted to the back of the dash, and the finished project.




Last edited by lurch9; 10-26-2017 at 05:54 PM.
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Old 10-28-2017, 10:56 AM   #153 (permalink)
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I got the draglink and tie rod made up. Tube is 1-1/2 x1/4 wall dom with ruffstuff heims and weld in bungs, I think. The toyota front axle came with highsteer arms on it. Running the draglink and tie rod above the arms was gonna kill my uptravel. So, I drill them out to 5/8" holes and I'm running 5/8" grade 8 hardware., and now they're under the high steer arms. So now I have low-highsteer, or high-lowsteer, one or the other. I also swapped a flat pitman arm onto my steering box.



I have 1-1/2" of clearance, fore and aft, from the draglink/pitman arm to the tie rod. I really hope that's enough clearance once the spring compresses and the axle shifts forward.

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Old 10-31-2017, 09:07 PM   #154 (permalink)
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Not much of an update tonight, but I've got a roller now. This is the first time I've got a good side shot because my work area is long and narrow.

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Old 11-01-2017, 03:36 PM   #155 (permalink)
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Super Cool!
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Old 11-03-2017, 02:35 PM   #156 (permalink)
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Rad
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Old 11-04-2017, 11:56 AM   #157 (permalink)
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I started working on getting the seats mounted up. I started with the rear bench for my boys. I added a piece of 1-1/4" angle at the bottom leading edge of the risers. This gives me some storage for small tool bags and such, and the angle keeps the stuff from sliding out from under the seat.







Same thing on the front. Front seats have sliders for when the wife wants to drive. Probably gonna mount the fire extinguisher on the outside riser.









Do you have more pictures, or the drawing file, on your seat brackets? They look bad ass! Well done.
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Old 11-04-2017, 01:13 PM   #158 (permalink)
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Do you have more pictures, or the drawing file, on your seat brackets? They look bad ass! Well done.
Thank you. Yes, I have the dxf and the autocad dwg file if you need that. Shoot me a pm with an email address and I'll get them over to you.
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Old 11-04-2017, 01:23 PM   #159 (permalink)
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Awesome. Thank you! Pm sent.
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Old 11-05-2017, 06:43 PM   #160 (permalink)
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What did you decide on for a fuel tank and where?
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Old 11-06-2017, 02:04 PM   #161 (permalink)
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What did you decide on for a fuel tank and where?
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The fuel tank is a poly unit from a YJ. I chose it for a few reasons, first was that I never wanted to worry about rust, and second I wanted the fuel filler on the driver side. The tank is a 15 gallon unit from MTS. It has a 8"x8" ish sump molded into the bottom of the tank. Hopefully, that will keep enough fuel around the pump to keep it happy. Im going to use the fuel neck and bezel from a CJ7.

The tank is in the rear, sucked up between the framerails. I had to raise the rear floor to accomodate the height. In the last pic you can see where I made an access panel to pull the pump and sending unit without dropping the tank. The sending unit is a fuel injected yj unit that I will hook the toyota pump to. Toyota pump output is 5/16" and the yj sending unit pickup tube is 5/16".



From the side. Not much to get hung up on.



Heres where the floor is raised behind the rear seat. You can also see the access panel.

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Old 11-06-2017, 05:40 PM   #162 (permalink)
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That is a really clean tank setup. I will probably do something similar since I'm running a 78 cj5 frame thats been back halfed basically.
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Old 11-06-2017, 06:11 PM   #163 (permalink)
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That looks really nice, using as many off the shelf parts as you can is a good idea. I keep a list of part numbers that I used for reference.

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Old 12-05-2017, 01:53 PM   #164 (permalink)
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That is a really clean tank setup. I will probably do something similar since I'm running a 78 cj5 frame thats been back halfed basically.
Thanks for the compliment.

Quote:
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That looks really nice, using as many off the shelf parts as you can is a good idea. I keep a list of part numbers that I used for reference.

Skip
Thanks. I need to update my list now that you've mentioned it.
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Old 12-05-2017, 02:12 PM   #165 (permalink)
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Alright gentlemen, I'm having a bit of an issue. The front springs I'm running are 4" Alcan/Toyota RUF springs, but I'm running them in a SUA configuration, so not really much, if any, lift. I thought the hi-steer arms/tie-rod were going to limit my uptravel, so I broke down my spring pack and put the main leaf back in to check clearances. I'm looking at 3-3/4" of uptravel using these springs. The spring goes flat about 1/16" from tie-rod/frame contact. So, the tie rod is fine, but the spring will only allow 3-3/4" uptravel before the spring goes inverted.
I was going to notch the frame for more uptravel, but that's pointless now bc that would mean the spring would go inverted with any more uptravel. Spring inversion drastically reduces spring life to my understanding, so I need to figure something out.
Strongly leaning toward a 3 link front. I would use existing frame mounts for the lower links. That would put my lowers around 22-24" long.
Thoughts? Opinions?



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Old 12-05-2017, 03:37 PM   #166 (permalink)
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The roller looks great. Seems like a perfect Willy's family rig.

3.75 inches of up travel isn't bad. I would run it. As far as inverting if your only inverting a half inch or so I wouldn't worry about it to much as long as the shackles not going to invert which based on your pictures your fine. I have had a few set ups mostly with flat YJ leafs that got all there up travel from inverting and never ran into to much of an issue.
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Old 12-05-2017, 05:32 PM   #167 (permalink)
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Super clean work! I envy you guys who are efficient enough to do these builds from scratch.
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Old 12-05-2017, 06:31 PM   #168 (permalink)
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I agree with zuzu, it's not much inversion and it's only after the other 3-1/4" of travel is used up. I've run springs flat and regular and reversed arch, they all seem to hold up ok.
Shackle angle is way more important for ride quality.
Maybe put a factory rubber bumper in there and call it good?
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Old 12-06-2017, 07:52 PM   #169 (permalink)
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Ok guys, after reading y'alls responses, I've decide to keep the leaf springs. I'm still going to notch the frame and make up an adjustable bump pad. Minor inversion seems not to bad. Probably going to run a 1" longer shackle, which will give 1/2" of lift, and move the shackle hanger rearward a little bit so that it has more angle, which will negate the 1/2" of lift. The idea is to get a little softer ride, maybe a bit more droop, and a plethora of other issues to work around to make it all work. Lol.
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Old 12-06-2017, 08:06 PM   #170 (permalink)
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Not really any actual progress, but I have a solid direction to move in. I started mocking up my cage tonight. I've drawn it in CAD and sketched it on paper, but I needed concrete info/pictures of the jeep with a mock-up cage. I grabbed some 1" pvc pipe and a propane torch and started my arts and crafts hour. Slow gradual heat allowed me to bend the pvc around my tube bender die and a little bottled water cooled it down, back to rigid tube. It worked ok. I got the visual I wanted and I only spent $10, versus ruining a bunch of DOM.


Plenty of room for my noggin.




Room for the oldest boys tater head.






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Old 12-07-2017, 05:22 AM   #171 (permalink)
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Needs more triangulation.
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Old 12-12-2017, 09:39 PM   #172 (permalink)
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Needs more triangulation.
Of course, lol. The pvc is built to take just one roll, then rebuild.


Started bending some tube. Committed to making progress. There's a charity ride at AOP in March that I've set as my deadline date. The wife is on board, so I'm about to lose a lot of sleep trying to get this thing rolling.

Cage progress.



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Old 12-12-2017, 11:08 PM   #173 (permalink)
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Do you have enough room to clear a helmet?
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Old 12-14-2017, 07:06 PM   #174 (permalink)
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Do you have enough room to clear a helmet?
I'm not sure yet. There should be enough room.

More tube....


Not sure about the double B pillar yet.


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Old 12-14-2017, 07:36 PM   #175 (permalink)
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Looks good.

I wouldn't worry about the spring going a little inverted at max bump. With how often they are in that position it won't matter much. Uptravel is nice. I am at about 4.5" on my flatty. 5-6" would be better.

I like the vertical B-pillar more than the PVC version. I wouldn't worry about the dual B-pillar....that seems like overkill....
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