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Old 12-14-2017, 08:58 PM   #176 (permalink)
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Looks good.

I wouldn't worry about the spring going a little inverted at max bump. With how often they are in that position it won't matter much. Uptravel is nice. I am at about 4.5" on my flatty. 5-6" would be better.

I like the vertical B-pillar more than the PVC version. I wouldn't worry about the dual B-pillar....that seems like overkill....
Thanks. I'm going to move forward with notching the frame up front. It will give me the ability to have an adjustable bumpstop pad, so I can dial in the usable uptravel. If slight inversion ain't too bad I'm gonna milk this cow for all the uptravel I can get.

I was able to get the B-pillar more vertical by putting a 10 degree bend in it and it just clears the seat at the rearmost adjustment.

The dual B-pillar is more of a piece of mind thing for me. A little extra tube seems to add quite a bit of strength there, and I'm going to have some precious cargo in the rear seat. However, I'm not gonna hammer down when the boys are in the back, so I may leave it out.
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Old 12-15-2017, 06:42 AM   #177 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Mieser View Post
I wouldn't worry about the spring going a little inverted at max bump. With how often they are in that position it won't matter much. Uptravel is nice. I am at about 4.5" on my flatty. 5-6" would be better.
Would you mind expanding upon this statement a bit? Are you saying they don't get inverted often enough to matter?
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Old 12-15-2017, 07:16 AM   #178 (permalink)
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Thanks. I'm going to move forward with notching the frame up front. It will give me the ability to have an adjustable bumpstop pad, so I can dial in the usable uptravel. If slight inversion ain't too bad I'm gonna milk this cow for all the uptravel I can get.

I was able to get the B-pillar more vertical by putting a 10 degree bend in it and it just clears the seat at the rearmost adjustment.

The dual B-pillar is more of a piece of mind thing for me. A little extra tube seems to add quite a bit of strength there, and I'm going to have some precious cargo in the rear seat. However, I'm not gonna hammer down when the boys are in the back, so I may leave it out.
I would argue a second B pillar doesn't add that much strength there since it doesn't spread the load out that much.



This is a sample calc for column load with 4130 1.75x.120 tube. With a 4' section of tube the max load is over 20,000 lbf so to cause that tube to fail you'd have to basically launch it off a cliff. Now, I'm aware that in a rollover the load isn't applied statically directly in line with the tube and the tube in your case isn't perfectly straight so a column load calc is just a rough guideline. In a rollover you need triangulation/gussets/nodes/etc to spread the load out. As much as we joke about "needing more triangulation" it really does increase the strength of the cage.


What type of tubing are you using again?
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Old 12-15-2017, 07:19 AM   #179 (permalink)
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All that said, if it makes you feel safer with the boys back there and you like the look of it there's no reason not to do it. Another 20lbs of tube isn't going to cause any negative effects on how to rig works.
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Old 12-15-2017, 07:47 AM   #180 (permalink)
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What type of tubing are you using again?
I'm using 1.5"x.120 DOM. I think is just for peace of mind really. I'm gonna make it and see how it looks. If it looks good and adds a small amount of strength then I'll weld it up.
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Old 12-15-2017, 07:59 AM   #181 (permalink)
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I'm using 1.5"x.120 DOM. I think is just for peace of mind really. I'm gonna make it and see how it looks. If it looks good and adds a small amount of strength then I'll weld it up.
And there's nothing wrong with that approach. Totally understand.
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Old 12-31-2017, 11:29 AM   #182 (permalink)
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I had a few hours in the barn this morning, and I managed to make a little cage progress. The rear of the cage is pretty much done, except for final welding. I may add a spreader bar just behind the rear seat, but I'm not sure yet. I ran out of tube, so the front part of the cage is on hold until Tuesday. I'm thinking that one more stick will finish it up. So far, there is about 82 feet in what you see in these pics. Should end up right at 100ft give or take.







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Old 01-02-2018, 05:55 PM   #183 (permalink)
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I put in some work the last few days. I was struggling with the problem of not having enough uptravel. I was right at 3.75" from frame to tie rod. I had thought about notching the frame above the axle, but after thinking it over for a while I decided to drop the front section of the frame. I cut the frame off 5.5" from the rear face of the front bumper. Dropped the front bumper 2" and welded it up. Threw on some fishplates and I'm really happy how it turned out. The frame is nearly dead level from front to back. Also, the uptravel went from 3.75" to 5.25". About perfect for a 10" travel shock I think, I don't think it could use up a 12" shock on the downtravel side of things. Also got the front shock towers tacked back on.

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Old 01-03-2018, 03:33 PM   #184 (permalink)
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Nice solution.
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Old 01-03-2018, 08:19 PM   #185 (permalink)
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I like the solution. Looks good and functional.
I am curious how much it affected your caster if the spring perches were already set.
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Old 01-04-2018, 05:28 AM   #186 (permalink)
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I like the solution. Looks good and functional.
I am curious how much it affected your caster if the spring perches were already set.
I'm sure that it adversely affected the caster. Luckily, the perches are only tacked on at the moment. Pinion angle looks pretty good. I'm not sure if the knuckle balls have ever been turned on this axle, I doubt it. I will get measurements soon and plan from there. Hopefully, the caster isn't too terrible.

I have a some degree shims I could stick in there temporarily if need be.
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Old 01-04-2018, 06:36 PM   #187 (permalink)
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Are you going to sleeve the mount bolts for the winch as they go through the front bumper?
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Old 01-04-2018, 08:21 PM   #188 (permalink)
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looking good,,,
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Old 01-04-2018, 09:11 PM   #189 (permalink)
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Are you going to sleeve the mount bolts for the winch as they go through the front bumper?
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They are sleeved and countersunk with socket cap bolts through the bumper. I stole/borrowed the idea from the Rango build.
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Old 01-04-2018, 09:32 PM   #190 (permalink)
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Tonight was rear shock mounting night. Nothing is finalized yet because the pinion angle isn't finalized yet. I plan on putting 2 -80lb bags of concrete on the rear floor to simulate gear and stuff. Then I will point the pinion at the t-case output and start tacking stuff together.

My boys got me some monster shock brackets from ruffstuff for Christmas, so I went to work making them fit. I had to trim quite a bit of material for the shock to fit nicely. These are the brackets, left side is untouched, right one has been trimmed.




This is how much was removed.




Mounts behind the axle, above the bottom of the tube. I can't imagine it will ever get hung up on anything....famous last words.



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Old 01-10-2018, 10:20 PM   #191 (permalink)
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Worked on bumpstops tonight. I'll let the pics do the talking.











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Old 01-11-2018, 12:14 AM   #192 (permalink)
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Nice job on that notch/lowering of the front of the frame, I think it actually looks pretty cool done like that 👍
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Old 01-18-2018, 12:44 PM   #193 (permalink)
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Nice job on that notch/lowering of the front of the frame, I think it actually looks pretty cool done like that 👍
Thanks. I think it looks pretty good, it also freed up some room for the power steering hoses. Win/win.
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Old 01-18-2018, 12:50 PM   #194 (permalink)
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I finished up the driver side rear leaf spring perch and lower shock mount. Also the bumpstop back there too, looks like the pics above.

Started on the front fenders. I was going to modify the stockers, but they were pretty rough and rust was present in all of the seams. I used 1.5" tube in the 14g flavor, with some 18g sheetmetal to skin it.






Trying to finish up the cage too. Maybe only one piece of tube left to make, I'm hoping.
I made the dash bar today. It was on hold due to the fact that it needed to clear the wiper motor and the latches for the windshield. Wiper motor came in, so I mocked it up. The on/off switch is on the motor itself, so clearance was key. This is how it turned out.







I also finished up the door bar. The small trapezoid at the bottom of the B-pillar will get a 3/16 plate gusset that the retractable seat belt retractor thing will bolt to...lol.



Also worked on the driver front fender. There's not a whole lot of fab stuff left.

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Old 01-18-2018, 01:24 PM   #195 (permalink)
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Looks great, cant wait to see it wrapped up
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Old 01-23-2018, 10:26 PM   #196 (permalink)
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I started sorting out the intake tonight. The raised fenders and raised drivetrain certainly make things tighter. After an hour of fiddling I think I've got it whipped. It's a 2.75" aluminum tube with a 2.75" CLR, a couple silicone couplers and the MAF sensor from the 22re. Still need to make some bracketry to mount it rigid. Also need a conical air filter and a pre-filter that will fit....not much room, but it does draw air from the cooler side of the engine bay, and I plan on making a screen panel on the rear part of the hood for fresh air.





The clearance under the hood, sorry about pic quality, I was using the potato filter.

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Old 01-24-2018, 07:43 AM   #197 (permalink)
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Old 02-02-2018, 06:33 AM   #198 (permalink)
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My intake stuff finally came in. Everything fit like it should, and I made a small bracket to keep everything in its place.





After that, I started running wires through the firewall. I used Daystar firewall grommets. They are cut to size and seem like they will hold up well. During final assembly, I will tape the boot to the wire to keep the elements out.





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Old 02-02-2018, 09:27 AM   #199 (permalink)
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Looking really good, those fenders are slick.
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Old 02-02-2018, 09:30 AM   #200 (permalink)
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Having your MAF mounted like that will cause gravity to hold the flap open further than it should be and cause weird runability issues. You should try to mount it as close to the stock orientation as possible.

Build looks great.
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