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Old 09-29-2012, 11:48 PM   #1 (permalink)
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The Project

I have been lurking around for a while and figure its time to post up.

My project is a 1953 civilian model. I started this project back in high school. Me and a friend swapped in a chevy 283 V8. It was a pretty crude swap but it was the first project I had worked on and it was a great learning experience.



I drove it around for a while and ended up blowing up the front end. After that I traded it to my friend that I did the motor swap with me.
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Old 09-30-2012, 12:02 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Fast forward about 6 years I ended up getting the willys back. It sat around for a couple more years collecting dust while I collected parts.

When I got her back she was in pretty rough shape. The front and rear axle were blown. The engine didn't run and the list of problems goes on.





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Old 09-30-2012, 12:11 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I ended up getting the motor running again. I got a good deal of some Toyota axles. Rebuilt, gusseted, and trussed the front axle. When I had the front axle apart I discovered that it already had 5.29 gears which was a pleasant surprise.

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Old 09-30-2012, 12:15 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I wanted to keep her nice and low so I decided to try something different. Did some research and discovered leaf spring slider boxes. Not a lot of people seem to run them but I figured I would give them a try. I just finished up the front and now need to do the rear. The front leaf spring is a set of stock rears out of a Toyota pickup.





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Old 09-30-2012, 04:41 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Interesting on the sliders. Would they restrict axle twisting forces too much and reduce travel I wonder? Think they would work great on normal up and down motion, but worried when one side is up and the other down you only have one bush each side, rather than two with a shackle, to allow twisting.
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Old 09-30-2012, 07:45 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Interesting on the sliders. Would they restrict axle twisting forces too much and reduce travel I wonder? Think they would work great on normal up and down motion, but worried when one side is up and the other down you only have one bush each side, rather than two with a shackle, to allow twisting.
The slider boxes is an experiment for me so only time will tell how they preform. We did jack one side up today to see how it flexed out but I didn't even think to look what the slider boxes were doing.

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Old 10-03-2012, 01:01 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Whats the plan for tires? I like the way this build is starting.
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Old 10-03-2012, 08:38 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Whats the plan for tires? I like the way this build is starting.
Going to stay with the 32" tires for now. I'm not sure how the axles are going to like the HP and don't want to start blowing birfields with bigger tires.
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Old 10-03-2012, 08:43 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Ok we'll I'm looking for some input. What are you guys running for power steering box's? I currently have a saginaw box but its in rough shape. I need to remount the box anyway so I need to know what to look for when getting a new steering box. what year vehicle to look for and the differences in box's? Thanks for the input.
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Old 10-05-2012, 07:14 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Those slider boxes are keeping the end of the leaf from twisting during axle articulation. So there is some missing articulation due to the design and layout. However, this leaves the next design flaw - the bushing area. But there is a mfr now that makes special bushings for articulation of leaf springs - Alcan Spring's orbital eye. Orbital Eye is the flex joint design for leafs. Or take a look at MetalCloak's Duroflex bushing. If MC's inner sleeve could be extended out to the length of the slider, that would be cool.

Same for the rigid frame mount on the front end of the leaf.
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Old 10-06-2012, 11:01 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Those slider boxes are keeping the end of the leaf from twisting during axle articulation. So there is some missing articulation due to the design and layout. However, this leaves the next design flaw - the bushing area. But there is a mfr now that makes special bushings for articulation of leaf springs - Alcan Spring's orbital eye. Orbital Eye is the flex joint design for leafs. Or take a look at MetalCloak's Duroflex bushing. If MC's inner sleeve could be extended out to the length of the slider, that would be cool.

Same for the rigid frame mount on the front end of the leaf.
No setup is perfect. It is all give and take. The slider boxes might limit travel due to not letting the axles twist but they also allow the whole rig to sit a lot lower achieving a lower center of gravity. I checked out the orbital eye and metal cloaks bushings but I am not sure if I like the idea of them. It seems like they would add to bump steer. I kind of like the idea of keeping the suspension a little tighter to improve handling at speed. I am not building a rock crawler here. I already have a toy to play in the rocks. I want to be able to use the horsepower and I believe a tighter suspension with low center of gravity will make it more manageable.

Not quite sure what you mean by extending the inner sleeve could you explain more????
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Old 10-07-2012, 07:50 AM   #12 (permalink)
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^^ I agree. Honestly, when you do get it twisted up in the rocks, it will flex.

awesome build!
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Old 10-07-2012, 10:56 AM   #13 (permalink)
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To comment, I really like where you're going with the rig and slider boxes are a great way to go. I do think though that you need to move the slider box back a bit. It looks like in the pic that the slider is all the way back against the stop at ride height. You need to leave it a bit more room to move to allow for up travel. Also, the slider box should be angled a bit (lower towards the axle) to allow for a more natural movement of the spring.
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Old 10-07-2012, 06:23 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Guy I know is running the sliders on a Ramcharger on 42"s. They seem to flex real good but he did relocate the spring clips then he just plain cut them off. It flexes great. JoPickens is his name and he's in the dodge seciton. I do think you should move the boxes a little.
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If you fuckers actually took a second to read the words rather than knee jerk reacting to the pics, you might have a clue what his plan is.

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Old 10-07-2012, 09:26 PM   #15 (permalink)
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as far as moving the boxes back goes. I measured what the total length of the spring was going to be flat then added 3/4" or so. So there is no possible way for the spring to hit the back of the slider box. We were talking about weather we should move them back when it was tacked but there wasn't a way for the spring to hit so we left it. How it is now the springs are pretty flat. I have an extra set of springs so I might add a few leafs to help the springs out.
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Old 10-08-2012, 08:19 PM   #16 (permalink)
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a few small updates. Did a little prep work today. Cut out the old rear bumper. It was pretty beat up and it was going to be in the way of the new slider box's. Also I am almost done making the rear slider box's. The alternator wasn't charging but it tested out good. Tracked the wiring down and found some bad but connectors. Did some soldering and now im charging and 13 v.











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Old 10-12-2012, 11:42 PM   #17 (permalink)
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little progress for today. Finished fabbing up the rear slider boxes today.



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Old 10-13-2012, 11:04 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Ok i need a little help here. I am trying to identify my transmission. I am pretty sure its a Chevy transmission. I was told that it could be out of a chevelle but I cant find anything to back that up. The output is a 6 spline and was attached to a dana 18 transfer case. I would like to replace the dana 18 with a dana 20 and would like to know what gears are in the transmission.

Tried searching but didn't come up with much.









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Old 10-14-2012, 10:18 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Borg Warner T10. Chevelle (or other GM cars) sounds right. They were a popular swap for jeeps, in the 60's and 70's. They are a decent transmission, but in my opinion they lack a low enough first gear for a 4 wheel drive. They would be fine if you ran in the sand alot.
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Old 10-14-2012, 12:33 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jagular7 View Post
Those slider boxes are keeping the end of the leaf from twisting during axle articulation. So there is some missing articulation due to the design and layout. However, this leaves the next design flaw - the bushing area. But there is a mfr now that makes special bushings for articulation of leaf springs - Alcan Spring's orbital eye. Orbital Eye is the flex joint design for leafs. Or take a look at MetalCloak's Duroflex bushing. If MC's inner sleeve could be extended out to the length of the slider, that would be cool.

Same for the rigid frame mount on the front end of the leaf.
Yes, but the slider boxes eliminate the inconsistency of the spring ratio throughout the cycle of flex.

They should provide deeper droop than a shackle, and much better articulation if setup right.
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Old 10-14-2012, 06:34 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Finished up the rear suspension. It actually flexes pretty well. I plan to add some more leafs to the front suspension and might put the overload back in the back spring. It sits a little ass high at the moment but I plan on putting a 20 gal fuel cell in the bed so that should bring the back end down a bit.











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Old 10-14-2012, 06:48 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Cameraman View Post
Borg Warner T10. Chevelle (or other GM cars) sounds right. They were a popular swap for jeeps, in the 60's and 70's. They are a decent transmission, but in my opinion they lack a low enough first gear for a 4 wheel drive. They would be fine if you ran in the sand alot.
Thanks for the info.
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Old 10-19-2012, 08:10 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Ok my search for a D-20 still continues. If anyone has a Dana 20 passenger side drop, Texas bolt pattern with the 6 spline input for sale let me know. I am located in Chico.
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Old 10-25-2012, 12:30 AM   #24 (permalink)
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small update, cleaned up the headers and pulled off the old power steering pump. Need to make a new bracket and could use a new pump.



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Old 11-12-2012, 09:28 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Haven't had a whole lot of time to work on the willys lately. Last weekend I went to fordyce for the first time but this weekend I ended up getting a few things done. Ended up cutting off the front hangers and moving them an inch forward so the steering has a little extra room to clear the engine. Also got the front bumper welded on and the steering box mounted so now it actually steers. Still need to drill out the steering arm for the right size bolt.

I don't know why but the quality of the pictures isn't that good this time.











Also picked up a dana 20



and found these sweet bump stops and pick and pull

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