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Old 10-14-2012, 06:23 PM   #1 (permalink)
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1951 cj3a/cj2a/cjv35u

AKA The Blue Bastard, from parts unknown.

All started when i found a C/L ad for an old Willy's over in N. Idaho. Guy was interested in trades. I offered him my 2001 KX125 w/ big bore kit for his jeep. He accepted... Turns out the kid didn't even have the jeep in his name, it was in the po's name, because idaho wouldn't touch the title.

Here's my buddy Ray after we got it on the trailer:


This was february, it stayed at Ray's place until we got the damn thing to run, and i could clean out my garage.
I had just driven it home a few blocks.


I pulled it home and decided the assess the damage, and what was in store.

It had the typical problems for an old jeep with a V8:
The wiring was fucked up. Some hillbilly got halfway done with the wiring and then said screw it. Nothing worked except the manual gauges.

The firewall was hacked up:




So i fixed the firewall the best i could:



I plated the firewall to fit the booster and clutch master:

You can't really tell, but theres about 8 bolts holding on a 3/16th piece of mild steel
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Old 10-14-2012, 06:32 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I ended up putting the body back on after this, and regret doing that. The suspension was jacked, and the motor mounts prevented a proper leaf spring setup.




I moved past this, as i wanted to just drive it around over the summer.
I had test driven it about 5 times, and i had finally got it running long enough to notice that not only was it very squirrely, it also had a tendency to jump across the road. The steering was so bad at this point, i almost went and bought a dana 35 to swap into it.



Turns out, the dumbass who did the SOA, set the pinion to point at the Tcase, well, this made the caster go WAY out of wack. Cut them off and welded them.

Around this time, i had also done the disk brake swap on the D27. (no pics of this)

At this point, i had to rebuild the carburetor, because i couldn't get the engine to run worth crap.
(no pics of this)

I got it running really well at this point, but couldn't control the heat. After a few posts on here, i found that the problem was the hot air wasn't leaving the hood. I had a set of louvres stamped out, and they need to be welded to the hood. I also purchased an aluminum radiator to replace the copper one.

I let the jeep sit for the next 3 months. School, work, and homework pretty much took up all my time.
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Old 10-14-2012, 06:43 PM   #3 (permalink)
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That brings us... TO TODAY!

I finally decided it was time to do some things right, and if i wanted to have a semi-reliable, halfway fun vehicle next summer, that i'd need to re-do the suspension on this pig.
Re-doing the suspension requires me to re-do the motor mounts. It's like killing two birds with one stone.

So, yesterday/today i decided to start pulling everything apart..







I'm going to re-do the motor mounts. I'd like my jeep to sit lower. Right now, the spacers between the frame and hangers add an inch or two, and i don't like it.

I'm either going to convert it back to SUA with YJ, or i'm going SOA with YJ.
I have no intention of swapping in a dana 35, any different axles, etc. Mine are just fine. This thing isn't a crawler.

I think i'm going to fully box the frame, re-make the transmission crossmember, as well as the front crossmember.

I'm not going to build a frame. The funding isn't there, and i don't really feel like setting up the geometry for everything again. As it sits, the jeep drives comfortably down the road, tracks straight, etc.

So.. Here it is, the Blue Bastard (From parts unknown)
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Old 11-04-2012, 02:56 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Update:

I've been a bit busy with it.

Pulled the 289/T90/D18 out of the frame, then proceeded to attempt removal of the spring hanger/risers. Said fuck it, then chopped the front frame horns off.



In the process i managed to pierce the radiator that was connected to the 289. Ooops

We can't all be like mieser, and buy spankin' new T18's, so we settle on low mileage ones.
Picked this gem up for the low price of 75 dollars


Then i scored an 80' 302, in pieces of course, but had been cleaned up and whatnot.
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Old 11-04-2012, 04:08 PM   #5 (permalink)
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You're in deep now. Looks kind of familar actually. Have you looked at the Novak site for the Ford conversion advice?
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Old 11-04-2012, 04:53 PM   #6 (permalink)
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You're in deep now. Looks kind of familar actually. Have you looked at the Novak site for the Ford conversion advice?
Yeah, my tub has been modified for the 302/289 already, so i've got MORE than enough underhood real-estate.

The only set-back for me is the price of the D18 to T18 adapter. And the fact that i have to tear down the T18. It's not something i'm 100% sure on.

I have a plan for the frame, as well. I don't really want to build a new frame because the cost is too much, so i'm going to straighten mine where it cracked on the pass. side, then box the frame up to the front frame horns. The crossmember that is in the front is going to be gone, and i'm going to replace it with one similar to the style in Mieser's homebuilt frame, and just have the one in the front. The others are going to stay, but the rear is going to get plated up.

And i'm sure you're curious as to why i bought the 302. Turns out the 289 i have is a 5 bolt bellhousing pattern 289, which ended in 64. Theres no bellhousing that goes from the bolt pattern to the big pattern on the T18 or NP435 or ANYTHING. So it's a perfectly good engine, that's rendered useless because of one thing.
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Old 11-04-2012, 05:37 PM   #7 (permalink)
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The reason i referenced the Novak site is for the motor off set. My sbc sits off center 1 1/4" towards the driverside, because of the narrow frame and the D18. I'm assuming you would do this with the sbf.
When i bought mine back in 94 it was cattywhompass. It wasn't until 2004 when i built my frame that i figured it out.
That 302 will be a great motor. I'd really consider soa on stock yj springs, and maybe track bar the rear. You will enjoy the stupid pedal for sure.
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Old 11-04-2012, 05:39 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Hey now, it wasn't new, just totally rebuilt....

You can use a factory T18 adapter and rear main shaft out of an FSJ if you don't want to pay full price for an aftermarket version.
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Old 11-04-2012, 06:44 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Hey now, it wasn't new, just totally rebuilt....

You can use a factory T18 adapter and rear main shaft out of an FSJ if you don't want to pay full price for an aftermarket version.
Seriously? I'll look into it.


@mrwilly's, the Novak site mentions that the engine should be offset to the drivers side. IIRC, the 289 was offset as well. I'm going to try and find some new springs for sure.. and i may have a line on some toyota axles, theoretically.
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Old 11-04-2012, 07:07 PM   #10 (permalink)
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From what I researched, yes. You might have to drill a hole or two but it is very possible. I would keep an eye out at Pick and pull at Spaldings. I saw more than a few back in my college days come through that yard.
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Old 11-04-2012, 07:29 PM   #11 (permalink)
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From what I researched, yes. You might have to drill a hole or two but it is very possible. I would keep an eye out at Pick and pull at Spaldings. I saw more than a few back in my college days come through that yard.
I'll keep my eye out for it.
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Old 11-04-2012, 10:58 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Also keep an eye out for IH scouts... the adapter and mainshaft from a Scout T18/Dana 20 is the same although the transmission cases are different
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Old 11-04-2012, 11:50 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Also keep an eye out for IH scouts... the adapter and mainshaft from a Scout T18/Dana 20 is the same although the transmission cases are different
Would it be similar enough to bolt the D18 to it? Theres an ad for a scout 800B posted on C/L and the guy is parting it out.
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Old 11-05-2012, 07:59 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I think the scout Dana 18 used a fine spline input gear ( and output shaft )and was only 2.0X:1 low range?
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Old 11-05-2012, 08:01 AM   #15 (permalink)
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to bad your not closer, i got a IH t18-/20 an a t-19/20 i been tripping over for yrs that i'll never use
edit: you know anybody going to KOH? they have to drive right past my house to get there.
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if you don't roll it over once in a while you aren't trying hard enough

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Old 11-05-2012, 09:06 AM   #16 (permalink)
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to bad your not closer, i got a IH t18-/20 an a t-19/20 i been tripping over for yrs that i'll never use
edit: you know anybody going to KOH? they have to drive right past my house to get there.
Unfortunately i don't. the best deals are always down south..

@Mieser: Do you know if mid 70's waggy axles are disk brake front?
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Old 11-05-2012, 09:14 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Unfortunately i don't. the best deals are always down south..

@Mieser: Do you know if mid 70's waggy axles are disk brake front?
From what I remember they switched from drum to disc somewhere in there, 75-76 maybe? They can always be retrofitted fairly easy.
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Old 11-05-2012, 10:33 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I think the scout Dana 18 used a fine spline input gear ( and output shaft )and was only 2.0X:1 low range?
On all the scout T18 / 19 that I have seen they are 6 spline coarse just
Like the jeep stuff even my 1980 scout Dana 300 is six spline
I think you may be confusing the IH stuff with the T14 three speed that has
The 10 spline Dana 18 gear...
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Old 11-05-2012, 11:07 AM   #19 (permalink)
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On all the scout T18 / 19 that I have seen they are 6 spline coarse just
Like the jeep stuff even my 1980 scout Dana 300 is six spline
I think you may be confusing the IH stuff with the T14 three speed that has
The 10 spline Dana 18 gear...
Disregard. I was looking at info for scout automatic D20 stuff
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Old 11-05-2012, 04:21 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I can pick up a Scout T18 with adapter plate for Texas pattern D20/D18 for 75.

I think i will go ahead and purchase it.

Thanks for that tidbit of tech, this saves me the 500 for the friggin novak aluminum chunk.
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Old 01-03-2013, 01:52 PM   #21 (permalink)
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After a month of going back and forth whether or not keeping my original frame. I decided to scrap it out. The frame itself is pretty shitty. There's a huge bend in it indicative of a hard hit in the front at some point. On top of that, there is so much hack job shit on it, that it's just not worth trying to salvage. So for the past month I've been scouring local ads (mostly craigslist), to try and find a frame.

Today i found a frame finally. Didn't want to build a frame from scratch because i'm not doing any heavy modifications to the jeep, and to build one would cost me more than to buy one.

A guy is selling an M38A1 frame for $150, straight, pretty rust free, but a small crack in the front cross-member. As soon as i get the frame, i can start re-assembling the frame/chassis. After that is engine, then transmission. then final "minor" details like brakes.

Pics this weekend after i clean the garage. Did i mention it's only ~20 degrees outside, and there's no heat in my garage?
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Old 01-14-2013, 08:04 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Picked up a cherry M38 frame with a saginaw plate in the front for 125, and a dana 20 (less the input gear) for 75 from a guy just outside of town. Waiting on a set of front shackles to finish the leaf spring bolt on.

Gotta weld on all the body mounts, cut off the V6 motor mounts, if that's what they are.

Anybody know the strength of the Suzuki Samurai axles? They have a 3.73 gear ratio, which would be nice for the V8/T18 combo so i'm not at 3500 rpm rolling down the road at 35mph
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Old 01-15-2013, 09:01 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Don't think the samurai axle will hold up, They are friggen small and bent too easily even under the 4cylinder.
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Old 01-22-2013, 10:08 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Don't think the samurai axle will hold up, They are friggen small and bent too easily even under the 4cylinder.
Still holding out for a D30/44 from a 5 or 7.

Put the body on the frame over the weekend, and mounted up my brake master cyl/booster. Speedway had a deal on this booster/master for juan fiddy so i jumped, hopefully it was a good deal.





Heres the D20 i bought from the guy with the frame, sans the input gear:


Sorry about the shit pictures. The jeep is a good 2" lower than what it was. I'll need a set of 33's to really fill out the wheel-well and give it the stance i want. AKA mawll crawlin'

And yeah, my garage is a fuckin mess.

Also: Found a set of Wagoneer axles. Not sure if i want to use them though. the width is what is the worst part.
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Old 03-22-2013, 01:11 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Heres my once-monthly update:

I bought a matching set of axles from a 75' CJ5 (i think), D30 front w/ disks, D44 rear centered. The rear needs a R/P, and drums, but otherwise complete. The front needs new brakes. Basically just overhauling them. Both are 3.73, and will stay 3.73.

The machinist cracked the 302 block I had

I FINALLY found another engine, 91' roller cam 5.0. E7 heads, 66 intake, timing cover w/ mechanical fuel pump allocation, autolite/motorcraft 2100 1.14 venturis. Also have a 2150 w/ 1.08 venturis if anybody is interested. It's rebuilt, i think.


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