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Old 01-15-2013, 09:21 PM   #1 (permalink)
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1956 DJ3A Build

Hello All. After much consideration, I sold off 2 commandos, 2 CJ2A's and lots of parts to buy a 2000 TJ. Great move, I now have time for a DJ build.
I am taking advice of Pirate members and building my own frame.
This is a super budget build as I am single salary teacher with a wife and kids.
Not much in the jeep fund. So.....
Super budget build!! I will keep a running total.
Want to buld front and rear bumpers with hitch and D rings prior to putting the frame together.

Plans are:
225 V6 from 69 Commando
SM420 (traded for CJ5 tub)
Dana 300 (86 CJ7)
Widetrack Dana 30 front (86 CJ7)
Widetrack Dana 44 rear (86 CJ7)
YJ rear spring packs front and rear (free)
Hanging pedals from XJ (still need)
Saggy Steering from CJ. (have CJ7 parts)

Started the frame and have the body being sanded at work.


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Old 01-16-2013, 06:08 AM   #2 (permalink)
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great start!
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Old 01-16-2013, 07:17 AM   #3 (permalink)
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You can still get 'new' XJ pedal assembly for about $40 from Omix. They bought up all the leftover stock from the manufacturer. There is a part number in my build somewhere. I can look for it later if you strike out.
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Old 01-16-2013, 08:11 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks, I'm keeping eyes out for a used set I can do some trading for. Thanks for the info if I can't find anything else. Got quite a ways to go before getting to that area. Have 2 spare hrs today to work on the bumpers.
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Old 01-16-2013, 10:56 AM   #5 (permalink)
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your off to a great start!
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Old 01-16-2013, 11:15 AM   #6 (permalink)
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1956 DJ#A Build

In on page one. Looks like it will be an awesome build. What tires are you planning on running?
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Old 01-16-2013, 12:25 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Dj3a

For now, planning on running nothing larger than 33's. I would like to keep it streetable, the weight down, and minimize stress on axles. Want to be able to put a heavy foot into it if need be.

Just received a mini-spool for the rear. One of the spider gears was chipped. Instead of paying $140 for new spiders I chose a mini-spool for $63. If I hate it I can upgrade to selectable locker later but it get the rear back on the road.
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Old 01-16-2013, 12:48 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Do you plan on keeping the top? I love budget builds. I try to with mine but sometimes I get carried away.
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Old 01-17-2013, 06:15 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Not really keen on the top, no doors or rear hatch. Planning on going with a 2A or 3A windshield.

What was your overall length of frame that you built?

JP mag has theirs at 132"
Which is about 10" longer than stock. I want to stretch out the front and move the back slightly to the rear but not so much that I have to stretch the tub.
I have not assembled the frame yet, still working on the bumpers. Cutting angles and receivers before welding to frame.
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Old 01-17-2013, 07:51 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 82cj7401 View Post
Not really keen on the top, no doors or rear hatch. Planning on going with a 2A or 3A windshield.

What was your overall length of frame that you built?

JP mag has theirs at 132"
Which is about 10" longer than stock. I want to stretch out the front and move the back slightly to the rear but not so much that I have to stretch the tub.
I have not assembled the frame yet, still working on the bumpers. Cutting angles and receivers before welding to frame.
I don't remember the exact dimensions. I just used mieser's frame as a go by. I still have his drawing somewhere if you'd like me to email it to you. Just PM me your email address if you do and I'll send you the drawing.
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Old 01-17-2013, 08:01 AM   #11 (permalink)
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My frame design is still posted in the first post of my build thread.

My frame was designed to move the rear axle back about 2" and the front axle forward about 3" using cj2/3 REAR springs at all 4 locations.

I should probably make a stock replacement print some day. On my frame the front is longer than stock for the wheelbase stretch and longer springs. It all works out really nice with the raised/pushed grill and big upright winch in front
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Old 01-17-2013, 10:12 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Don't destroy the DJ3A parts when you remove them, They are worth a pretty penny to a dj collector.
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Old 01-17-2013, 10:41 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Saved the DJ parts, want to use as many as possible on the build.
Here is what I figured on Autocad.
Going with the stacked 2x4 tubing cut at 45 degrees. 1/8" thick
40.5" front includes 2" bumper
58" middle
40.5 rear not including bumper (hanging 3x4 rear bumper out for carrier.
6.5" over lap which gives me 4.6" for side plating
126" without rear 3" rear bumper or 129" total length

Thank You for the help. You guys are the ones who's builds convinced me to build the frame in the first place. Fun so far but a long way to go.
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Old 01-17-2013, 10:45 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Make sure you have the same amount of 'flat' area on the top of the belly portion of the frame for the body to sit on. I cut that pretty close on my design. It worked out well but I don't think I could have made it any shorter.
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Old 01-17-2013, 10:53 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I cut 2" off front, figured I could spat it there. A rough estimate of 44.25" between spring eyes on the frame and if the axles are located in the center of the springs, gives me a total wb of 84.25"
I have 36.5" of flat on the rear frame section
45" of middle flat section
36.5" in the front including the bumper.

According to the drawing so far. sound about right?
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Old 01-17-2013, 11:01 AM   #16 (permalink)
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I had approx 48.25" on the belly section of the frame.

I have extra space in front......



But almost no space in the rear.



The start of the flat for the belly basically need to be about 39" from the rear face of the body. On my frame the rear of the body was flush with the rear bumper.
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Old 01-17-2013, 11:10 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Got 40.5 to start of flat belly section and to the front of the rear bumper.
Sounds bout right then. Sweet!
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Old 01-17-2013, 11:24 AM   #18 (permalink)
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That would be 1.5" longer than what I did. You MIGHT hit the step in the rear floor, especially with a steeper 45 degree angle cut.



This is the area you might have issues with.
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Old 01-17-2013, 11:33 AM   #19 (permalink)
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I'll go measure the tub to make sure, it's in the collision repair shop here at school. I have 20 engineering students in my classroom expecting me to teach them.
Thanks for checking the measurements.
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Old 01-17-2013, 11:47 AM   #20 (permalink)
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i vote for keeping the DJ tub. I personally like the DJs, but your rig and all. IDK if you've seen this build, but this guy is building and awesome DJ5 on tons.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-...eep-build.html

could be trouble showing you this, but it might give you some inspiration too.
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Old 01-17-2013, 12:20 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Keeping the DJ tub, hood, fenders, grill and tailgate. No chopping it up and original yellow paint with "Dispatcher" decal on sides.
Still want it to be a flatty.
I'll check the link.
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Old 01-18-2013, 10:34 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Took some measurements, should be ok.

Tore apart the rear dana 44 (out of 86 Cj7) brakes this evening. Sandblasted and painted backing plates.

Question: Any idea of what e-brake cables to run? I would like to keep the original DJ e-brake, it is like the CJ2A but different location. Should I run it up the middle or up the drivers side.
What e-brake cables to order?
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Old 01-21-2013, 06:25 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Had a little time over the weeked.
Did the rear brakes, rehabbed the Dana 300 and pulled the carrier.
Bad spider gears, thougt it would be easy to throw in the the mini-spool but realized the cross shaft hits the ring gear. had to pull carrier. looked online and found this method. Worked Sweet!!


[I
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Old 01-23-2013, 09:47 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Found out that I actually have a worn out posi rear- Mini-spool will not fit, going with a full spool to fix carrier issues.

Meiser - did a ton of drawing on Autocad the last few days, have it worked out. would like to post the drawing if I can get it to fit. have converted to pdf. so far.
Like others said, plan, plan, plan, took tons of revisions to get it correct.
Going to end up with about 84 WB on stock rear YJ springs. Those centered pins make it a bit tough to engineer.

Been working on bumpers. Will post pics.

Going to tuck the rear cross member insid the body. notch out for 3x3"bumper mounts and add the bumper in the rear.
weld rear sping mts. to the 2x4 rear x member and offsett to the rear 1". Sweet!
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Old 01-23-2013, 09:59 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Sounds like you have been doing your homework.

Yes, it does take a LOT of thinking sometimes. A lot of people underestimate that aspect of building. Maybe everyone doesn't do it, but I ponder crap for months or years sometimes. I do keep a design journal of all my ideas, but those have gotten so thick and deep that finding information in them can be a headache
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