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Old 02-13-2014, 06:08 PM   #351 (permalink)
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Amazing Fabrication!!
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Build Thread - 1946 CJ2A "Post War Willys" -
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Old 02-13-2014, 06:31 PM   #352 (permalink)
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^ Thank you!
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Old 02-13-2014, 06:36 PM   #353 (permalink)
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Amazing Fabrication!!
X2 Very nice Fab-x! Its been hard keeping the progress to myself.

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^ Thank you!
THANK YOU

Also special thanks to SPD for the super cool .5 flanges, Columbia Mandrel bends for most of the stainless tubing and Burns exhaust for a key U bend.

http://www.spdexhaust.com/
http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/
http://www.burnsstainless.com/
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Old 02-13-2014, 08:39 PM   #354 (permalink)
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V-band clamps on the collectors too, Nice!
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Old 02-13-2014, 10:45 PM   #355 (permalink)
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For these headers, I tried out using ABS plastic pipe for the model. The ABS bends are based on a 2.5" radius and come in four different bend angles. Best of all, the bends can be returned to the store when the model is done since no glue is used.






Although the ABS plastic helps with general layout and equal lengths, it doesn't help much with where to exactly cut the tubing like icengineworks does. I've used this before but didn't have the correct size for this build.
One of the problems with icengineworks (beside being spendy) is that everything has to be done in units of one inch since each piece is exactly one linear inch. Often, you need fractions of an inch, especially in bends.


I use a band saw and a couple different sanders to fine tune the seams. The tubes are purged with argon and tig welded.

I use a T manifold to carry two flow meters off of one tank. One flow meter for the welding and one for purging oxygen.




These headers took about 40 hours to build.
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Old 02-15-2014, 04:47 AM   #356 (permalink)
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Nice job on those headers.
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Old 02-15-2014, 07:14 AM   #357 (permalink)
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Joe, who is your source for the nickel coating?
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Temecula Quality Plating - Welcome to TQP
Didn't know if you saw this.
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Build Thread - 1946 CJ2A "Post War Willys" -
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Old 02-16-2014, 09:32 AM   #358 (permalink)
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Those headers are the shizzle!
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Pirate, please make a Willys section.......:( c'mon I said please. :bounce2: YAY!

Now with FJ 45 flavor!

Willys wagon build thread

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Old 02-16-2014, 03:07 PM   #359 (permalink)
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For these headers, I tried out using ABS plastic pipe for the model. The ABS bends are based on a 2.5" radius and come in four different bend angles. Best of all, the bends can be returned to the store when the model is done since no glue is used.






Although the ABS plastic helps with general layout and equal lengths, it doesn't help much with where to exactly cut the tubing like icengineworks does. I've used this before but didn't have the correct size for this build.
One of the problems with icengineworks (beside being spendy) is that everything has to be done in units of one inch since each piece is exactly one linear inch. Often, you need fractions of an inch, especially in bends.


I use a band saw and a couple different sanders to fine tune the seams. The tubes are purged with argon and tig welded.

I use a T manifold to carry two flow meters off of one tank. One flow meter for the welding and one for purging oxygen.




These headers took about 40 hours to build.
How hot will the frame and body mount get?
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Old 02-16-2014, 03:54 PM   #360 (permalink)
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^ No doubt, hot enough to melt paint. The rubber body mount should be far enough away.

I was thinking about shielding the frame at that particular corner with aluminum or stainless sheet or perhaps do the corner in high temperature paint.

By going with headers, we really had no other options where to rout the tubes.
No room inside the frame rails. The front tire dictates that the primary tubes lay tightly in that corner.

It would have been nice to tie the two banks together, too. Just not a clean way to do a cross-over tube without going under the frame rails or over the engine.
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Old 02-17-2014, 07:46 AM   #361 (permalink)
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Beautiful work-I only wish I had the skills to build like that. Back to lurking, carry on!
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Old 02-19-2014, 07:12 PM   #362 (permalink)
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How hot will the frame and body mount get?
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^ No doubt, hot enough to melt paint. The rubber body mount should be far enough away.

I was thinking about shielding the frame at that particular corner with aluminum or stainless sheet or perhaps do the corner in high temperature paint.
This might be a good option to wrap around the portion that is near the body mount.

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Old 02-21-2014, 04:49 PM   #363 (permalink)
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Anyone here ever used a Dynomax VT muffler? It supposed to cut out the drone.

Finished hanging the mufflers. The hangers are made of stainless.
Tom is not sure where the tail pipe is going to end up yet.





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Old 02-21-2014, 04:55 PM   #364 (permalink)
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Is there going to be anything to protect the mufflers? They seem like they are hanging pretty low?

Your fab work looks so clean. Do you have to go through some kind of decontamination before you get into your shop?
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Old 02-21-2014, 05:18 PM   #365 (permalink)
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^^ When I'm working there's crap everywhere, LOL. I don't understand why people don't take 5 minutes to clean up a little before they take a pic :shrug:

At ride height, the muffs will be 20 inches from the ground. I don't see Tom grinding through gnarly rock trails, I mean, he's using running boards and stock bumpers. So, to answer your question, the muffs are the protection. I tucked them up as far as I could without getting into a lot of modification. Tom didn't want them too close under the floor boards because, well, the smell of melted sneakers brings the suck.
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Old 02-21-2014, 05:39 PM   #366 (permalink)
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haha. I would have to clean for 5000 minutes to get to a point that 5 minutes would make much of a difference. I swear, I'll keep the next shop cleaner
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Old 02-21-2014, 05:49 PM   #367 (permalink)
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Mieser, The wagon will be a more of an expedition rig than a basher. Eventually I'll have a willys just for that. Plan on taking the wagon on plenty of road trips to fish, ski, site see ect in the western states. Just wanted to build something that is out of the ordinary and a capable low cog in the same package getting to those places.

Need to come up with a way to route the final stretch of pipe/tip from the end of the muffler before the rear tire. It might look trick to come through the body, however will it bug me later down the road We'll cross that bridge soon.
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Old 02-21-2014, 05:52 PM   #368 (permalink)
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What a build! I have never seen such fab. work. Great job. When can I drop off my old wagon ? Never mind, I can't afford your work ! I'm building mine for rock duty but it's nothing compared to yours.I can only dream of doing as good of work as congratulations on being so talented.Is this what you do for a living?If not, it should be. Just WOW !
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Old 02-21-2014, 06:41 PM   #369 (permalink)
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When can I drop off my old wagon ? Never mind, I can't afford your work ! Is this what you do for a living?
Thanks, but come awn, your wagon is beautiful! You know that. Thanks for putting up the pics.

I have a couple more things to do on Tom's chassis and then we are going to transport it back to his place to get the body back on. During this period, I will be moving and setting up a bigger shop, well, I mean a shop instead of a 2 car garage that I work in now.

I'm looking for my next project and really, I'm a lot cheaper than you might think - and I specialize in rockcrawlers

I'm also considering doing kind of mobile thing for smaller projects.

If I don't get hooked up with another project after Tom's, the possibility of doing my own and then selling it might happen. It just needs to make a profit. Kicking the idea around of a 2500lb stretched LS powered MB Willys using as much aluminum as possible.
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Old 02-21-2014, 07:57 PM   #370 (permalink)
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I do like my wagon and it has some great parts. D60 front 14 bolt rear, 383 stroker, 700r4, d 300, PSC hydro assist and hydro brakes with 4 link front, etc. I really want to 4 link the rear but don't want the shocks in the back of the bed. That's why I love the cantilever set up you did. What city do you live in ? I grew up in Manhattan Beach and my daughter lives in the city of orange. My sister lives in Big Bear, I'm in Reno. By the way, when you say a mobile thing for smaller projects, with your expertise, maybe that means a cantilever system for my wagon in my 3 car garage ! LOL Hey, I'm in Reno, it's fun up here and I'm close to the Rubicon. It can be a working vacation.There is a full on shop up here that is open 24 hours a day for anyone to use for about $50.00 a month. They have every tool and machine you could imagine including a plasma table. A guy like you could easily run a business up here and not have to buy expensive tooling. It is a 4 wheel mecca up here.

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Old 02-21-2014, 10:04 PM   #371 (permalink)
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I'm looking for my next project and really, I'm a lot cheaper than you might think - and I specialize in rockcrawlers

If I don't get hooked up with another project after Tom's, the possibility of doing my own and then selling it might happen. It just needs to make a profit. Kicking the idea around of a 2500lb stretched LS powered MB Willys using as much aluminum as possible.
uhmm...fabby I plan to keep you busy for a while...as in the go fast 2wd ttb jeepster near future
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Old 02-21-2014, 11:28 PM   #372 (permalink)
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The CR racing reflective heat tape works wonders. I have used it on several race trucks to keep the race shoes from melting to the floor. Downside is it's gold and a little flashy for some people. I had found some similar stuff in silver a while back but can't remember where
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Old 02-22-2014, 09:53 AM   #373 (permalink)
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uhmm...fabby I plan to keep you busy for a while...as in the go fast 2wd ttb jeepster near future




I want some of those headers to hang over the fireplace.
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Old 02-25-2014, 11:58 PM   #374 (permalink)
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more goodies on the way...saw these brake lines from crown performance at off road expo. They were actually cheaper than the Kevlar-less ones offered on Summit and are custom made to fabby's spec's.

Brake Line Tech - Off-Road Magazine



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Old 02-28-2014, 06:32 PM   #375 (permalink)
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While waiting for brake line parts, I finished up a few odds and ends.

On the list of things to do was adding return springs for the locker air rams.

The first attempt was to cut washer pucks to retain the springs.






Good enough I thought. The problem was that the springs coil bound before all the travel was used.

I could have fussed with different springs, but these springs seem to have all the right dimensions. So, next I cut some spring cups. That seemed to work.







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