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Old 08-08-2013, 08:44 PM   #176 (permalink)
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If you want, I can show some of the steps taken to build these when I do the other side. There 250 steps
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Old 08-08-2013, 09:16 PM   #177 (permalink)
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If you want, I can show some of the steps taken to build these when I do the other side. There 250 steps
I want to see the secret recipe!
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Old 08-08-2013, 11:02 PM   #178 (permalink)
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I have some pics that were taken today and will just use those. There are 242 steps missing, but you get the picture.

It starts with a template and chromoly sheet steel. I used .125" for the body and and .100" for the doubler plates.



The template is traced onto .125" 4130 plate and cut out with a band saw. Once the two sides are cut, they are tack welded together for further machining.
This keeps everything symmetrical. I use a hole saw for the corners and then run the saw between the holes.



The inner band is actually made of six pieces. 2" chromo tube is pied to create perfect corners and then welded to .125" strips for the walls. I have bent the whole thing using one long strap but it's very time consuming and in the end doesn't come out as nice. Cutting the hole doesn't really save much weight as the material to make the band just about makes up for the material lost in creating the hole. What the hole with a collar does is give another structural dimension which adds strength. IMO, it also looks cool as hell.



Here the inner band is welded in on both sides. Spacers are made to keep the correct distance. Because the heat shrinks everything, I make the spacers .008"-.010" wider. Because I wanted perfect edges for this project, I ground the inner plate at a 45 deg and then filled in the space with weld. Care has to be taken when welding because burning through to the outside leaves an eye sore.


A picture of how I welded the inner band to the body plate.


On the outside plating, I start with the corners first. I like curves as they ad strength. When the corners are in, I join them to the inner band with a internal rib. Because none of the welding inside can be seen (except for these pics), I just get her done by using the tooth paste method. Whenever both sides are welded, the second side always has carbon from the previous side and looks nasty with the contaminants. A bead blaster will take the carbon out, but aint nobody got time for that, especially when it's in the inside.





The piece before the doubler plates are added. Doubler plates spread out the force from the bolts. I guess you could make the whole thing out of 1/4" steel, but it would be heavy.



It's done.



Detail.


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Old 08-08-2013, 11:31 PM   #179 (permalink)
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[QUOTE=Fab-X;20162242]...There are 242 steps missing, but you get the picture.

in the Details. Way to go Fabx!!!! Gorgeous work!

That is very cool of you to share your trade secrets with the willys / pirate community as it beneficial for everyone to be able to see something which could be applied to something they can use or pass it on.
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Old 08-09-2013, 09:08 AM   #180 (permalink)
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That is very cool of you to share your trade secrets with the willys / pirate community as it beneficial for everyone to be able to see something which could be applied to something they can use or pass it on.

I build more motorcycles than I do four wheeled rigs...it's cheaper..anyways, I was just studying building ratio'd linkage for more travel out of short shocks...come here and see one getting built. Very cool.

Thanks for the build pics!!


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Old 08-09-2013, 09:13 AM   #181 (permalink)
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Damn! Nice work. Your fab skills are very clean. Plus it looks easy when you skip all those steps
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Old 08-09-2013, 09:21 AM   #182 (permalink)
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I build more motorcycles than I do four wheeled rigs...it's cheaper..anyways, I was just studying building ratio'd linkage for more travel out of short shocks...come here and see one getting built. Very cool.

Thanks for the build pics!!


The motivation behind going with the cantilever is so I don't have shocks protruding into the cab. The great thing about this set up is the suspension is progressive naturally by design.
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Old 08-09-2013, 12:12 PM   #183 (permalink)
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The motivation behind going with the cantilever is so I don't have shocks protruding into the cab. The great thing about this set up is the suspension is progressive naturally by design.

I would have bagged your hotrod Willys.


I'm looking at cantilevering my Fox air shocks on the Edsel just to hide them since they don't like billet at a BilletProof show...maybe I'll take the easy route and wrap them in duct tape.
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Old 08-09-2013, 01:31 PM   #184 (permalink)
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I would have bagged your hotrod Willys.


I'm looking at cantilevering my Fox air shocks on the Edsel just to hide them since they don't like billet at a BilletProof show...maybe I'll take the easy route and wrap them in duct tape.
Airbags were in the plans for a while. In the end this is more durable and less headache dialing in the compressors and all the spaghetti those systems create.
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Old 08-09-2013, 07:51 PM   #185 (permalink)
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I have some pics that...
...are just pure art.
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Old 08-10-2013, 05:52 AM   #186 (permalink)
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Great to see the stiffening plates without sharp corners too which lead to stress rises.
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Old 08-12-2013, 01:50 PM   #187 (permalink)
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Ride height.




Bump.




Droop.



7.5" of shaft moving 13.5" of vertical axle travel.
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Old 08-12-2013, 02:13 PM   #188 (permalink)
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I will play around with the bell crank pivot but it looks pretty good as is. There is a slight falling spring rate as the shock enters full bump ( goes past 90 deg.). The b/c has more usable travel this way and keeps the clocking in check at full droop.
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Old 08-12-2013, 03:40 PM   #189 (permalink)
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I will play around with the bell crank pivot but it looks pretty good as is. There is a slight falling spring rate as the shock enters full bump ( goes past 90 deg.). The b/c has more usable travel this way and keeps the clocking in check at full droop.
Excellent progress Fab-x! Amazing use of space...The clearance of the bottom of the coil to the bell crank is minimal at full droop.
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Old 08-16-2013, 01:14 PM   #190 (permalink)
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Passenger side b/c is done.




Ready to do the b/c pivot captures.




Tucked in fairly well.



Tom, you will be able to see a little of the canti business from the outside.







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Old 08-16-2013, 01:56 PM   #191 (permalink)
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[QUOTE=Fab-X;20317018]Passenger side b/c is done.

Fantastic! Happy Friday
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Old 08-16-2013, 05:54 PM   #192 (permalink)
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Wow, those welds look fantastic! I wish mine looked even 1/2 that nice! It would be a shame to paint over them, just clear coat it
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Old 08-19-2013, 10:16 AM   #193 (permalink)
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This is truly a work of art! Any thoughts on how the lower mount for the cantilever will be located? Looks like an interesting puzzle. Keep up the amazing work!
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Old 08-19-2013, 04:03 PM   #194 (permalink)
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This is truly a work of art! Any thoughts on how the lower mount for the cantilever will be located? Looks like an interesting puzzle. Keep up the amazing work!
Ordered 12 ft of 4130 tube on Friday. Fabx located 190 plate locally and is working on the b/c capture puzzle / art.
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Old 08-19-2013, 05:13 PM   #195 (permalink)
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This is going to sound like a total noob question but..... the little tabs on the frame that are tacked on to locate the "bottom of the triangle doohickeys" do they actually stay there? or does something locate the bottom like the tabs are now? I am looking at this thing and my mind cant see how it works. I get that is a cantilever and that it needs to swing up and down but that tab is ef-ing with me. I am really interested to see this thing in some "checking for clearance shots". If something does locate the bottom will it be double shear?

by the way, stupid awesome fab skills. I hope you not some crazy talented young dude, and its more like it took you like 90 years to get that good.

EDIT: I just saw the question above.

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Old 08-19-2013, 09:32 PM   #196 (permalink)
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^ Yeah, it's a little confusing to look at from just a photo.
The metal tab is just temporary. It allows me to position the bell crank in a semi rigid position so that a permanent piece can be designed.

These are the permanent face plates that replace the temporary metal straps:



The face plates get tacked to the chassis so that the axle of the bell crank pivot can be tweaked. The axle has to be in the correct location, be square, level and symmetrical from side to side.



The inside (yes, it's double sheer) of the b/c axle is captured using tubing tied to various places on the chassis. You can see the tube cross member that will be used to tie into the b/c pivot:



Once the inside tubing structure is done, then I will go back and reinforce the face plate by adding sides to give it structural dimension.

Thanks for the compliment. It's debatable whether I'm crazy, however, I can say I'm an old fart.
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Old 08-20-2013, 06:11 PM   #197 (permalink)
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[/QUOTE]
It's debatable whether I'm crazy, however, I can say I'm an old fart.

Josie Wales would vouch that Fab-x has crazy eyes

"wisdom is found in those who take advice" I find myself repeating this proverb a lot lately

“Just remember, when you’re over the hill, you begin to pick up speed.”
― Charles M. Schulz

dimple dies are cool
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Old 08-20-2013, 07:58 PM   #198 (permalink)
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Starting to make sense?






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Old 08-21-2013, 07:54 PM   #199 (permalink)
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It's all welded up.





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Old 08-22-2013, 04:39 AM   #200 (permalink)
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Ok I see it. Man! that look so nice.
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