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Old 02-18-2013, 03:04 PM   #26 (permalink)
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yup. How close is pretty close? It will rotate up a bit under power, but CVs tend to be a little longer to the 'pivot' and you may add a little angle with the new driveshaft.
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Old 02-18-2013, 03:07 PM   #27 (permalink)
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I just picked up a digital angle finder a few weeks ago, I'll see what the difference in angle is

How critical is it to get the zero angle at the differential side?

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Old 02-18-2013, 07:47 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Oh yes, and one other thing, I found that might be a problem?

With the wedges in place, the centering pin on the springs no longer protrude into spring perches on the axle.

I assume that this is not good, since one rear tire could be slightly farther forward or back than the other side?

What can be done about this?

Last edited by danielbuck; 02-18-2013 at 07:49 PM.
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:15 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Found you here also Daniel. When you get your new driveshaft, the Best way is to get rid of the wedges, cut off the old spring pads, and either reweld them back on, or buy new springs pads. There really inexpensive. That way you can get your pinion angle just right. Not sure if you weld or not Daniel, but even if you have to pay someone, it shouldn't cost that much. Did this 6 months ago, and haven't any problems. Jeep is looking great, and so cool to see it's your daily driver.
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:18 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Oh yes, and one other thing, I found that might be a problem?

With the wedges in place, the centering pin on the springs no longer protrude into spring perches on the axle.

I assume that this is not good, since one rear tire could be slightly farther forward or back than the other side?

What can be done about this?
You are basically suppose to install the wedge onto the spring pack with the centering pin installed through the wedge. Careful when doing this on a SUA since the wedge if on the inside of the arch and can be snapped if you tighten down the centering pin too much with too long a wedge.

The wedge only needs to be as long as the spring pad.
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:20 PM   #31 (permalink)
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yea, I'm thinking that might be the solution, new spring perches.

I do weld, but I only have 110 volt at home (mig), 110 volt probably might not penetrate enough, I could at least tack it into place and bring the axle somewhere that has 220v, and finish it off there.
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Old 02-19-2013, 10:35 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Given that most of my friends built most of their jeeps with a 110 (including frames and all critical suspension bits) I would think the 110 is enough if done right. But I do have a story. A friend of mine finished off the re-build of the big-block in his firebird. I don't know how much power it had but he claimed it had gotten into the 10's before the rebuild and was making more power afterwards. Well, he was out flogging it and the spring pads/welds broke lose from the axle. The pinion rotated up, and swung the driveshaft around under there like a one bladed helicopter. Man what a mess. He said it made a hell of a lot of noise when it let go.
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Old 02-19-2013, 10:45 AM   #33 (permalink)
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I'll give it a try with 110 then And maybe double/triple pass it just to be safe
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:08 AM   #34 (permalink)
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I would be one of those friends with a 110V built vehicle. EVERYTHING on my recent rebuild was done with a 135amp machine. I didn't use anything much thicker than about 1/8" material in the build, tried to properly design things, and have not had any issues with some pretty heavy use.....
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:11 AM   #35 (permalink)
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I'll give it a try with 110 then And maybe double/triple pass it just to be safe
Prep the metal properly, minimize any gap, heavily tack things so they don't move, and then lay a proper bead at 120-140 amps and you will be fine. Also, when in doubt move the part to a good angle for welding, don't try and contort yourself into a difficult position where you have an exotic welding position.
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:29 AM   #36 (permalink)
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yea I would have it turned up to 140 for sure, as high as I can go on 110, for metal that thick.
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:33 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Also, if you can, weld around the 'ends' of the spring perch where it meets the axle tube. This will help with the strength of the end of the welded joint
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:34 AM   #38 (permalink)
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yea, the perches that I have ordered leave acess to the inside a bit, so I could probably get at least 1/2" of weld run on the insides of each end, (maybe more, depending on how far I can get the gun in there) that would certainly help

Guess I'm just a bit nervous, I've never done anything structural thicker than 1/8" with 110, everything thicker I've brought all my stuff to a friends place and used 220. Bringing an entire rear end though, would be difficult, as I have no truck! I suppose I could throw it in the back of the jeep if I'm not confident enough to do it with 110.

How thick are the walls of the axle tubes, in a factory Dana 41? The spring perches look like they are 1/4" (the ones I ordered, I mean) It might help to grind a bevel on them, eh?

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Old 02-19-2013, 07:18 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Just get the axle in the position you want it, bolt everything up and then tack the perches on so they don't move. Unbolt the axle and wheel it out grime under the jeep to finish weld the perches on a high amp setting. Weld about 3/4" in one spot then move around so you don't take a chance on warping the housing.

Then paint and bolt everything back in place.

I like you DD by the way
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Old 03-15-2013, 06:40 PM   #40 (permalink)
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new driveshaft and spring perches! In hind site, now that the angle is corrected, I might have not needed the double joint driveshaft, at least for street driving anyway. But with the angle almost corrected (with the wedges, before) it was binding at full droop.

Not the best welds on the spring perches, but I think they will hold


















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Old 03-15-2013, 06:50 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Daniel, get rid of the mig wire, turn off the gas, and burn it in with nr-211 FCAW. It will burn way deeper and give you way better piece of mind with a 110 v machine. Looks like you got it going on though!
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Old 03-15-2013, 08:24 PM   #42 (permalink)
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I tried some gasless flux wire on my bumper a while back, but I couldn't seem to get a good consistent weld. I guess I just need more practice with the flux wire. The thought did cross my mind to use that on these perches, for better penetration. But I figured that I would probably be able to get a better weld with the mig + gas, since I'm more familiar with that. Although once I was done welding, I wasn't to happy with how it looked. It looks alot more tack-tack-tack than I was hoping for. Maybe because I'm using a thicker wire now? I had previously been using .024, and for my press brake when I brought my welder over to a friends house to plug into 220, I put in .035 wire. And forgot to change it back. Usually I can get pretty smooth looking welds with the .024

I also welded a bit on the insides of all 4 corners, for some extra strength. I could only get maybe 1/2 an inch in or so. But better than nothing I guess

I have it all bolted back together! Can't drive it yet though, I need to bleed the brakes, and I don't have any speed bleeders, so I'll just have to wait until I can have a friend or neighbor swing by to help me with that.

Dang, I'm ready to drive this thing again, the weather is turning nice here in in SoCal! Just need to bleed the brakes!!!

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Old 03-15-2013, 10:03 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Nice..
I like what you did with the fender/seat to give more room.
Any pics of your fwd seat frame where you tie the front of your seats in?
Any idea how far back you cu into the fender? And was it enough

I added rancho springs to my stock 3a, I had the same issue with the wedges & the pins not being long enough.
I found 8 degree wedges worked to get the right driveshaft angle.
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Old 03-15-2013, 10:09 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Nice..
I like what you did with the fender/seat to give more room.
Any pics of your fwd seat frame where you tie the front of your seats in?
Any idea how far back you cu into the fender? And was it enough

I added rancho springs to my stock 3a, I had the same issue with the wedges & the pins not being long enough.
I found 8 degree wedges worked to get the right driveshaft angle.
Indeed, 6 degree wedges that I had weren't quite enough, I bet 8 would have been perfect. Accept for the pin not being long enough!

As for how far back the fenders were cut, I'm honestly not sure, I don't know where the seat back originally was, but it's now significantly farther back, I'd say at least 4 inches. But yes, it's plenty far back enough. It's very comfortable. It's probably to far back for someone shorter than me, I think I'm right at about 6 foot, but for me it's perfect. Though I still need to bend the shift levers back a bit, so I don't have to lean forward slightly to hit reverse, 2nd, and to engage overdrive.

I'll take a photo of the front part of the seat mounts early next week, I'll be out of town all weekend wheeling in the TJ.

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Old 03-23-2013, 07:45 AM   #45 (permalink)
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finished bleeding the brakes last week, and have been driving it around town for a few days, ahh, it's nice to have it back on the road

I couldn't find any speed bleeders that were the same size as the bleed bolts in my 2a, so I just used a carpenters clamp (reversed, so it pushes instead of clamps) in between the seat and the brake pedal to press and keep it pressed while I opened and closed the bleed bolts. That actually worked pretty good! Took longer than it would have with two people, or with speed bleeders, but no matter.

The springs feel good, they aren't to rough, I think I'm happy with them Can't wait to try it out on some trails! I still need to do a full droop test on the driveshaft.



And I noticed a small leak in the radiator filler neck, I'm going to take it to a radiator place next week to have them solder it up. I'd give it a try myself, but it something I'd rather just have done right, I've never done any soldering before. They said it would be quick and easy for them to do, so that's fine with me



Next thing I need to do is make a transmission cover, before it gets to warm outside. Having the heat from the transmission is nice when it's cooler outside, but in summer it's going to suck, haha!

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Old 03-31-2013, 11:37 PM   #46 (permalink)
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I put on some new exhaust (getting ready to put a tank on the underside, so I got rid of the factory exhaust in the rear). For kicks, I decided to put a flowmaster muffler on there, just to see what it would sound like. It's actually not as bad sounding as I would have expected, it's got a bit of growl to it! So I'll probably leave it

cj2a exhaust - YouTube

I put the muffler on the driver side, next to the transfer case, and welded up the rest of the exhaust from pre-pent pieces at the local parts shop. They didn't have much pipe (or mufflers!) in the 1.5" pipe size, so I went with 2.5", which was the smallest size flowmaster I could find. I'm sure the size is way over kill, but oh well, haha!

There's a leak in the exhaust where I've clamped on the tail section of the pipes after the muffler, I'm going to try and find a better clamp, if that doesn't work, then I'll weld it, would just make it a little more tricky to remove later on without cutting it.

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Old 04-01-2013, 12:21 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Did you happen to change the angle of your windshield? It looks like it's slanted back a hell of a lot more than mine
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Old 04-01-2013, 12:34 PM   #48 (permalink)
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It probably is slanted back farther than it should be. There's only a few inches of room from the top of the steering wheel, to the glass of the windshield. I didn't do it on purpose though, I guess it's just bent over time from people grabbing the top of the windshield to get in and out of the vehicle.

I think it actually may have been bent back a little bit farther before, but when the cage went in, we set the angle slightly higher up, for a bit more room at the top of the windshield (so I don't punch the glass while making turns, haha! And now it's resting directly on the cage, so it won't go back any farther.

I see some that are slanted back like mine, and some that are darn near vertical, I guess there was some variation!

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Old 04-01-2013, 12:52 PM   #49 (permalink)
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It probably is slanted back farther than it should be. There's only a few inches of room from the top of the steering wheel, to the glass of the windshield. I didn't do it on purpose though, I guess it's just bent over time from people grabbing the top of the windshield to get in and out of the vehicle.

I think it actually may have been bent back a little bit farther before, but when the cage went in, we set the angle slightly higher up, for a bit more room at the top of the windshield (so I don't punch the glass while making turns, haha! And now it's resting directly on the cage, so it won't go back any farther.

I see some that are slanted back like mine, and some that are darn near vertical, I guess there was some variation!
I heard 15-16 degrees back was the factory spec when I was researching my cage build. Mine was WAY off too. I need to rebend the legs one of these days.
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Old 04-01-2013, 01:19 PM   #50 (permalink)
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I heard 15-16 degrees back was the factory spec when I was researching my cage build. Mine was WAY off too. I need to rebend the legs one of these days.
When you do get around to doing that take your time. I had to bend my passenger arm back into shape to get the thing level. Apply head, dead blow hammer, fit. Repeat as needed.

After looking at MB frames online I'm wondering if mine isn't some weird early version. The top corners are open on the ends of the vertical tubes. All the repros seem to be a bit more refined. Being a slat grill it wouldn't surprise me that the early frames were a bit more cobbled together as well.
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