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Old 02-10-2013, 12:24 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Buck's 46 Willys

It's probably not near as hardcore as other builds here, but I've been doing some work to my 46 2a, and I figure I might as well start a thread here, mostly so I can keep my questions all in one thread, haha!

My plan, a daily driven willys, that can tackle mild-medium offroad trails. my TJ is the rock crawler. But my willys is the daily driver! So I want to make it a little bit more comfortable, and beef it up a bit here and there. Nothing crazy. I will not be stretching the frame/body, I'll keep it as intended, short wheel base

MB grill - done
Cage & suspension seats - partially done, still need to tie cage into frame
wheels/tires - done
fuel cell - not done
spare tire & jerry can mount - partially done
2"+ suspension - almost done
radiator, electrical, ignition redo - done
under skids - not done
rock sliders - not done

I'm sure there will be other items!


As I purchased it, in running condition, converted to 12 volt, with lots of bondo. And since this day, it's been my daily driver!





Makes my TJ seem like a monster truck!




First thing I did, was remove the roll bar, I didn't like it's shape, and I knew I eventually wanted something better.




and replaced the TJ tail lights with more classic looking tail lights, that are LED, nice and bright so folks flying down the street will see me at night, haha!




And then, I removed the tire carrier which was bulky, and appeared to have poor welds (several of the welds cracked when I removed it!)




Then I replaced some of the electrical wires, and fuel lines, as needed. And also ditched the factory oil-bath air intake for a simple small paper air filter:

and because I don't like the "bug eye" look of the 2a grill, I replaced it with an MB grill




Last edited by danielbuck; 02-10-2013 at 01:16 AM.
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Old 02-10-2013, 12:34 AM   #2 (permalink)
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And promptly got pulled over for driving at night with no headlights, HAH! Yes, I'm not joking, and it took the officers about 10 minutes to figure out how to deal with my vin number that is only 5 digits long, haha! In the end, I recieved no ticket for the headlights, and it was kind of funny





Then I took it offroad for the first time! I was suprised that it did pretty well, but darn it's alot more difficult to drive offroad than my locked & 1:4 transfer case TJ! I had radiator trouble, and trouble holding an idle on steep hills & off camber climbs. I later replaced the radiator core, and cleaned out the carburetor real good.



Then I added a saturn overdrive, wee, I have speed now!!






and I experimended with removing the windshield, to blast (with overdrive!) down the pacific coast. Fun, but ultimately not very practical, bugs in the face!




Then took it offroad once again, before getting new tires. And to test how the overdrive does on long-ish trips. It did very well, and the new radiator (no pictures) did just fine on this trip. The previous trip the radiator was giving me trouble. No over heating at all, and the carburetor ran just fine this time, no idle issues!





New wheels! 15x6 wheel Vintiques 41 series ford truck series wheels from summit racing



and the new tires! 31x9.5x15 Radial superswampers. Ride quality has improved quite a bit! No more bone-jarring small bumps.




Then, off it goes to my friend Kurt, (A-hole fab) to make cage for it:


Last edited by danielbuck; 02-10-2013 at 12:56 AM.
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Old 02-10-2013, 12:36 AM   #3 (permalink)
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and the finished cage! With suspension seats from Twisted Stitch. WOW the ride quality from the new seats alone is amazing, I can't believe it.







and a few minor interior accoutrements:





Then it was time to hold the spare tire some way, I made it modular because I wasn't sure how I wanted it to mount, center, or offset with room for a jerry can. I picked up the spare tire from Interco directly from Louisiana, as I drove home to visit my folks in Louisiana, it was cheaper to pick it up there locally than to have it shipped all the way to California. The Interco folks are very nice, good bunch of folks there!








And today, I finished putting on the new rear suspension, 2.5" superlift springs, and 1" daystar shackles. fronts go on tomorrow.


Last edited by danielbuck; 02-10-2013 at 12:51 AM.
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Old 02-10-2013, 08:30 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Cool build. I like the mild buildups and will keep watching! Did the Ford wheels clear the front hub OK? My A1 had some 70's Ford rims on it when I got it and they had torched the center slightly larger to clear the Willys hubs.
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Old 02-10-2013, 08:37 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Looking very cool. Love the pictures, great quality.

Are you planning on running a larger tire with the new lift? I thought I looked great with the 31s and no lift.....
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Old 02-10-2013, 09:12 AM   #6 (permalink)
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love the look of this one.....
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Old 02-10-2013, 09:46 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Did the Ford wheels clear the front hub OK? My A1 had some 70's Ford rims on it when I got it and they had torched the center slightly larger to clear the Willys hubs.
Yep, clears the front hubs perfectly. I called up summit racing and asked them to measure the center bore hole, since that's not usually a common measurement on wheels. Ended up being perfect!

Quote:
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Are you planning on running a larger tire with the new lift? I thought I looked great with the 31s and no lift.....
I probably will eventually, but for now with the flat 4 under the hood, I'm not going with tires any larger. I can already feel it being under powered on hills.
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Old 02-11-2013, 12:18 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Got the front suspension on, and bled the brakes. Pedal still feels a bit soft, but it stops well enough. I'll bleed them some more later.

Problem though, is the driveshaft, I can hear it thump thump thump as I go. I guess I either need wedges in the rear to rock the axle back, or a double CV driveshaft. wedges are cheaper, so I'll give that a try first!

Hard to tell how it rides, my road is actually pretty smooth, and as soon as I realized the driveshaft sound, I immediately turned around and came back. Standing on the bumper, the suspension goes down a little bit, so it's softer than before, not sure how much though. Still feels a little higher than I was expecting, but we'll see if it settles down

Oh and the squeaking at the end of the 2nd video, that's not the suspension, that's my clutch pedal. I like the squeak,

http://youtu.be/xIQMGYFUyUI

http://youtu.be/HOl4RjnUraU








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Old 02-11-2013, 07:16 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Did you happen to measure the height difference between stock and this kit? It would be nice to get a realistic number for peoples reference. Do you wish you would have gone with the 1" kit?
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Old 02-11-2013, 09:13 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Did you happen to measure the height difference between stock and this kit? It would be nice to get a realistic number for peoples reference. Do you wish you would have gone with the 1" kit?
No, I didn't measure a before and after. But I think I remember measuring the height of the rear bumper once before, lowest point was about 14.5" if I remember correctly. I'll measure that again and see what it is now.

As far as the height goes, my initial reaction was "oh, that's higher than I expected!" But it's starting to grow on me. If the ride quality is good, I'll leave it. If the ride quality is crummy (I hear mixed reviews about the superlift springs) then I'll have a custom set made by Deaver Spring.


(edit) I measured the rear bumper before I left for work, and indeed it did raise by the expected amount of 3". That's 2.5" from the springs and .5" from the shackles. I guess 3" looks taller than i was expecting it to be. I was rubbing the rear fender wells before (on the street!! It's not been offroad with the new tires yet!) We'll see how it goes with the additional lift under there.

Last edited by danielbuck; 02-11-2013 at 11:24 AM.
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Old 02-12-2013, 07:26 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Looking good! Glad to see a build thread started. I like the MB grill I've thought about doing that too (and an MB windshield too).

When you swapped out the stock intake setup for the little paper air cleaner, did you notice much (power) difference? Mine came with the little paper air cleaner and I've been slowly collecting parts to return it back to stock (but sometimes I wonder if that's going to make it even slower). I was planning to run a paper element in the stock housing.. somewhere I've seen a how-to on this (can't find it at the moment), basically you get a round type air filter (I'll have to look up the p/n) and make an adapter piece or stick a pair of rubber toilet gaskets in between the filter and the bottom of the can where the oil would normally go. The air filter just sits in place of the steel wool that was in there originally.

Which carb rebuild kit did you go with? I've never bothered to rebuild my WO but on advice of others picked up a solex. The solex is ok but by no means great. I'm not very happy with it and have been considering something else. I'd like to find one of the small bore motorcrafts (haven't found one yet). Or maybe a 32/36 weber. I've been thinking maybe I should give the WO another try. It ran poorly before but I never did rebuild it.
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:08 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I didn't notice any power difference. Only thing I noticed was a slightly louder sound coming from the intake when I step on the throttle.

If you don't have the oil-bath setup yet, I've got mine laying around in good condition, if you are looking to buy it used! I only removed it because I wanted something simpler, that took up less room in the engine bay. I think I still have the bolts that bolted the oil bath to the firewall too.

I didn't rebuild the carb, I suspect it needs tuning though, I just don't know enough about carburetors to tune it.

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Old 02-12-2013, 03:27 PM   #13 (permalink)
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You should post up the wheelwell seat mod stuff you posted on thecj2apage. Great stuff. By far one of the cleanest looking wheel cut mods I have seen If the main panel was angle ever so slightly more you could probably gain another inch or two?
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Old 02-12-2013, 08:30 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Sure A friend of mine (Kurt) did the work while he was making the roll cage.

Since it's my dailiy driver, comfort was the main goal here. Seats moved back quite a bit (I don't know exactly how much, but probably more than most people would do, in a non-stretched willys) The 31x9.5" tires rubbed the fender well with the factory height springs, if they still rub with the extra suspension lift, I will probably cut a slot in the bottom most angle, and 'round off' that edge as much as I can, to gain a bit of clearance. So instead of this

|
|
|_____


it will be something more like this

|
|
.\ ___

basically taking the 90 degree angle (well, close to 90) and turning it into two 45 degree angles with an inch or two inbetween them, as much as I can do and still have the seat fit where it is. The seat is pretty smashed up against the wheel well as it is, but at the very bottom (where the rubbing happens!) I could round out that angle. Any little bit would help






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Old 02-12-2013, 08:59 PM   #15 (permalink)
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That is a great idea for more room for seating!
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Old 02-12-2013, 09:14 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Do you have a picture of where the tires where running on the new section of wheel well?
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:20 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Do you have a picture of where the tires where running on the new section of wheel well?
(edit) here. This was on the street. Probably pulling cross-ways out of a sloped driveway, although I did hop a curb at an angle once, It was probably from when I hopped the curb. Was with the stock height springs.



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Old 02-13-2013, 10:00 AM   #18 (permalink)
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On your new leaf springs, what did you use for bushings (poly, rubber, metal bushings)? Did the springs come with new ones? What about on the frame end of your shackle?
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Old 02-13-2013, 10:47 AM   #19 (permalink)
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On your new leaf springs, what did you use for bushings (poly, rubber, metal bushings)? Did the springs come with new ones? What about on the frame end of your shackle?
On both ends of the springs, was a bushing already in place in the spring eyes. Rubber, I'm guessing, with a metal sleeve. I didn't have to do anything there.

For the shackles, it came with poly bushings that I pushed in to the shackle mount on the frame, and inserted the metal sleeve into the bushings. I had to put a little bit of grease on the metal sleeve, and tap it in with a hammer. Didn't need to be pressed in to the bushings, just light tapping with a hammer worked fine.

The shocks came with (poly?) bushings that needed to be pressed in to both sides. I didn't need to use a shop press, a bench vice was sufficient. No metal sleeves on those.

The shackles were complete, with all the hardware. Although I may replace the nylock nuts with all-metal locking nuts. On my TJ all the hardware is all-metal locking, and I've never had a problem with things coming loose.

The springs, for the frame side I either I lost the bolts, or they didn't come with any. Luckly, I had some grease bolts laying around that were extras from the control arms of my TJ, and they were a perfect fit both in diameter and length, haha! And so far, with this being only the second leaf spring vehicle I've worked on, the U bolts always seem to be not bent 100% the same. most of them were not bent quite enough to slide into the mounting plate holes, so I had to use carpenters clamps to squeeze them closer together, then they slid in. One or two of them gave me a bit of a fight, but most just needed a little pressure. So far as I can tell, this must be normal, as we had to do the same thing on my friends K5 blazer. haha

All in all, it was an easy install. A few times an extra set of hands might have been nice, but it was easilly done by myself. I've changed out coil springs several times on a few different vehicles, but I've only changed out leaf springs once before, on a friends old K5 blazer. Those parts were so heavy, you needed 2 people. But on the little 2a, every thing is so small and lighter weight, one person can do it without much trouble. Took me about 1 and a 1/2 days. Including drilling out all the holes on the spring plates, repairing one of the shock mounts on a spring plate (had to cut it and reweld it), and bleeding the brakes. I did have a friend come over to help bleed the brakes.


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Old 02-13-2013, 10:55 AM   #20 (permalink)
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the poly bushings work great. Thats what i'm running on my shackles, and someday i hope to replace the rubber spring eye bushings with poly's as well.
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Old 02-13-2013, 11:05 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Seems like on a willys rubber might be more desirable? Poly transmits more bumps and vibrations, right? Or is there some other benefit? I always thought that rubber rides better, but doesn't last as long. And poly transmits more vibrations, but lasts longer and has less give. (better for performance cars)

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Old 02-13-2013, 11:18 AM   #22 (permalink)
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I'm using metal bushings in my spring eyes, rides nice with minimal vibes. It could be something about the 35" Krawler about a foot from my head but overall its WAY better than I though it was going to be....
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Old 02-17-2013, 10:55 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I got the wedges installed on my willys, but it's not enough to prevent the driveshaft from binding at full droop, so I have a driveshaft on order from Tom Wood, with a double CV joint at the transfer case. I'm positive that will take care of the drive-line issues :-)

Had to cut the skid plate ("skid plate" only 1/8" thick, haha!) for the transfer case & transmission, to fit the new front driveshaft angle. was quite easy

Here's the little beast, my daily driver :-D









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Old 02-18-2013, 07:13 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Are you rotating the rear diff more again for the CV driveshaft? Zero axle u-joint angle and all that with a cv?
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Old 02-18-2013, 03:00 PM   #25 (permalink)
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It's pretty close to zero angle at the axle side (if that's what you are asking?)
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