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Old 09-16-2013, 12:01 PM   #101 (permalink)
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sweet!

I don't like those wheels though Are those the wheels you are going with, or just temporary?
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Old 09-16-2013, 01:35 PM   #102 (permalink)
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Old 09-16-2013, 02:14 PM   #103 (permalink)
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*whew!* Thank goodness
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Old 09-16-2013, 03:02 PM   #104 (permalink)
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Looking at the motor mount, can you just flip over some pieces to get the meat of the mount on the top rather than the bottom?
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Old 09-16-2013, 03:13 PM   #105 (permalink)
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no, it only works one way. I am going to extend the bushing support down farther so I can raise the horizontal section up an inch or so and cut the frame side off so it can slide away from the motor toward the frame.
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Old 09-20-2013, 04:11 PM   #106 (permalink)
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I have been looking for a list of cv drive shaft lengths but have not found anything that fits the bill. I am looking for a front cv shaft that is around 34" compressed. I will need a small diameter to help with my motor mount clearance. any ideas? the rear is only 11" or so so I am assuming I will have to go to Tom Woods and have it made...would much rather find a used one for the front.
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Old 09-20-2013, 07:00 PM   #107 (permalink)
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Mid-90s Explorer front shafts are 30" compressed, 1310CV at the case and 1310 at the front yoke, 2" tube. Around here the yards are full of them from former mommy-service which seldom saw 4wd and have near-new joints etc. I don't know if this is close enough for you, but it is data. You probably can't get these below 12" without shortening the splines. I would really encourage you to try to find some more room for a longer rear shaft.
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Old 09-21-2013, 10:34 AM   #108 (permalink)
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Engine is 1/2" from radiator fan....nowhere to get it from unless I move rear axle back. its already 2-3" back. I may have an inch if I absolutely need it, but I dont want a comp cut
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Old 09-21-2013, 12:09 PM   #109 (permalink)
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Your probably going to just have a front shaft built just like the rear shaft. There are some places you can save money and some you can't....
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Old 10-07-2013, 10:15 AM   #110 (permalink)
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Got to put in a few hours on the jeep this weekend.
First order of business was to modify the drivers side motor mount to increase driveshaft clearance on the front. A piece of 3" tube fit perfectly in the Novak mount and allowed me to raise the horizontal support up about 1 1/2". It worked great and will have plenty of clearance. The closest thing now is the bell housing but I think it will be OK.



I spoke with Tom Wood and he felt that standard , non cv front shaft may be the way to go. Pinion angle takes precedence over castor so I will be shimming the front pinion to match the transfer case angle to see how it works out. Apparently less castor is required as the tires get larger so with the 33's maybe I can get away with only 3-4 degrees of castor.
At the same time I will move the eye hole I the shim back so I can move the a le forward 1" and the crank pulley will miss the axle at full stuff.

I put a my wheel and tire on to check if I can fit a 5 1/2" backspace on the wheels. No problem with the 17" wheels





I started cutting out the wheel wells for the seats



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Old 10-07-2013, 10:18 AM   #111 (permalink)
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I found this in the shop! Should make the sheet metal work a lot easier!




But then this is my sheet metal brake......



I think I did ok though

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Old 10-07-2013, 10:27 AM   #112 (permalink)
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Nice update Glen! How does the overall width look now with the 5.5" BS wheels on the YJ/TJ axle width?
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Old 10-07-2013, 10:46 AM   #113 (permalink)
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I would think about the "pinion angle over cast preference" Mine was around 3deg to start and it didn't drive well, got some death wobble and overall it just didn't feel right. got it up to 6 I believe, and it handles great.

Think about how you will drive it, most of my driving is around town in 2wd, where pinion angle does not matter. would make no sense to sacrifice drivability for something that does not come into play most of the time. and when its in 4wd its in the wood where its in 4 low, so the DS is not spinning enough to notice any issues

If you plan on a LOT of 4wd HIGH driving where the driveshaft is really spinning, then you might want to think about the angle, if not, I would not even give it a thought.
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Old 10-07-2013, 10:49 AM   #114 (permalink)
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I would think about the "pinion angle over cast preference" Mine was around 3deg to start and it didn't drive well, got some death wobble and overall it just didn't feel right. got it up to 6 I believe, and it handles great.

Think about how you will drive it, most of my driving is around town in 2wd, where pinion angle does not matter. would make no sense to sacrifice drivability for something that does not come into play most of the time. and when its in 4wd its in the wood where its in 4 low, so the DS is not spinning enough to notice any issues

If you plan on a LOT of 4wd HIGH driving where the driveshaft is really spinning, then you might want to think about the angle, if not, I would not even give it a thought.
No hubs on the YJ front axle. The front driveshaft turns all the time. The vibes will be less without power going though it but a compromise will probably need to be made.

I suspect with the high pinion front axle the driveshaft angles will not really be that bad.
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Old 10-07-2013, 11:03 AM   #115 (permalink)
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No hubs on the YJ front axle. The front driveshaft turns all the time. The vibes will be less without power going though it but a compromise will probably need to be made.

I suspect with the high pinion front axle the driveshaft angles will not really be that bad.
No hubs, but the YJ has an axle disconnect, so it won't spin. Unless he has a front locker, then you are right
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Old 10-07-2013, 11:21 AM   #116 (permalink)
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I have 3 deg. spindle shims on my 44 that I rotated back from 0 and fixed my deathwobble. Dose anybody made the shims for the YJ?
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Old 10-07-2013, 11:28 AM   #117 (permalink)
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No hubs, but the YJ has an axle disconnect, so it won't spin. Unless he has a front locker, then you are right
He upgraded to a one piece shaft in the long side.
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Old 10-07-2013, 11:29 AM   #118 (permalink)
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You can also get some balljoints that adjust caster slightly ( maybe 2 degrees ) I think?
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Old 10-07-2013, 11:40 AM   #119 (permalink)
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Found the shims $47.95 camber spindle shims I have to run 8 deg. to totality get rid of the deathwobble
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Old 10-07-2013, 11:52 AM   #120 (permalink)
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Found the shims $47.95 camber spindle shims I have to run 8 deg. to totality get rid of the deathwobble
Pic? The YJ axle it unit bearing so I know know if anything very conventional will work on the spindle....
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Old 10-07-2013, 11:52 AM   #121 (permalink)
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Nice update Glen! How does the overall width look now with the 5.5" BS wheels on the YJ/TJ axle width?
the tires hang out about 6" from the fender. Its more than I would have liked but there is not anything I can do about it. I just don't want to be pestered about it by the cops.
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Old 10-07-2013, 12:14 PM   #122 (permalink)
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Your right Mieser sorry Glen bad info. Unit bearing is different.
Glen my tires are 10.5" outside of the fenders and no tickets in20 years. But in Ca. I have to have mud flaps in the rear only. And no fenders required on my trailer?
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Old 10-07-2013, 12:50 PM   #123 (permalink)
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I bought some 1/2" x 2 1/2" flat stock to use as a lowering spacer as well as an offset plate to move my front axle forward. The spring perch on the front axle does not have a solid top to drill a new hole in to shift axle. If I need a shim for the pinion angle can I just weld it to this spacer?
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Old 10-07-2013, 12:57 PM   #124 (permalink)
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I bought some 1/2" x 2 1/2" flat stock to use as a lowering spacer as well as an offset plate to move my front axle forward. The spring perch on the front axle does not have a solid top to drill a new hole in to shift axle. If I need a shim for the pinion angle can I just weld it to this spacer?
Welding everything together would probably be ok. I would even weld the offset plate to the axle perch if you can. Once you figure out what you need for offset and shim you might see if you could find someone to make you a one piece unit, or maybe even have the perch filled and milled to the new dimensions?
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Old 10-07-2013, 12:58 PM   #125 (permalink)
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also...my spare is going on the back and it is big. which side should i put it on for best rear view visibility?
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