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Old 06-28-2013, 03:23 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Glenn's build thread

If nothing else this build thread will provide entertainment for the seasoned builders as well as a consolidated source of basic questions that most would be embarrassed to ask.
A little history of the build. I had a 47 cj2a in high school that I blew the stock motor on the first day I bought it ( who knew they only went 45 mph?)
I some how managed to get a pinto engine in it with not much more than a wrench set and hammer. It got passed on to my brother and disappeared to god knows where after that. I always like the vintage look of them .
Last year I started looking for one to buy. Lots of possibilities out there but nothing fit the bill. I wanted a daily driver that gets reasonable mileage, auto transmission,newer motor, hard top for winter, and basically looks in great shape and rides like a modern vehicle.
After lurking for a while and watching build threads I PM'd Mieser to see if he would sign on as a consultant to help me avoid stupid mistakes and steer me in the right direction. He generously agreed and we assembled a grocery list of parts to start looking for.
I bought a welder a proceeded to practice welding by laying beads on every piece of scrap I could find. My weld sculpture is now too heavy to move out of the garage.
My goal is to learn as much as possible during the process, but also to choose my battles carefully. I do not intend to build another car ( but I guess who knows) so I don't feel that learning to rebuild an auto trans or swap axle gears is the best use of my time. Instead I will focus on skills and knowledge that could get me back on the trail if something less catastrophic breaks down...steering, hubs, brakes, fuel, etc. I expect to to have a very good working knowledge of most aspects of the jeep when I am done, as well as improved patience, and a new vocabulary of profanities.

That said here is what I have assembled for this project
Mieser frame with 2x6" belly rail spec'd for Yj springs front and rear
JCR racing weld it yourself front bumper
3x4" closed tube rear bumper with hitch receiver
Front axle is jeep YJ D30 with vacuum disconnect removed and solid TJ shafts installed, 4.88 gears with truetrac posi, discs
Rear axle is jeep TJ D44 4.88 truetrac posi, discs
Drivetrain is 2012 gm 4.3 v6 with 6,000 miles on it with the original 4L60E auto tranny that it came with, all harness, computers, gas pedal retained, but thinned by Jim's performance
Novak adapter to flipped D300 fully rebuilt and ground out to allow front wheel drive.
Northwest fab reverse cable shifters for transfer case
Wide ope design art Carr cable shifter for trans
Painless electric harness
Repro M38 tub
Cj2a windshield and willys stamped hood
Artic top and matching vertical windshield frame
Raceline 17x8.5" monster beadlock wheels
Goodyear MT/R Kevlar 33/11.5/17

I have made some progress and will add pics ASAP.
Cheers!
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Old 06-28-2013, 03:56 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Sounds like you are off to a good start, and I look forward to following this thread.
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Old 06-28-2013, 05:42 PM   #3 (permalink)
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any time my willys is in the shop getting worked on the air is always perty blue. nice parts list, I look forward to watching it go togather
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Old 06-28-2013, 07:16 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Welcome. Can wait to see some pics. I pondered the 2x6 center as well but was afraid it would add to much height to an already high ride. Are you doing SOA or SUA?


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Old 06-29-2013, 07:27 AM   #5 (permalink)
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on board to check progress---good luck....chris
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Old 07-03-2013, 07:54 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I picked up the tub and rest of the body parts the other day. I ordered through Kaiser willys. Customer service and communication were good. The tub was well packaged with wood and steel frame. The hood arrived ith a small dent but it appears to be a simple repair.
I couldnt resist throwing the pieces together to create the illusion of some monumental progress!
The pieces are a mix and match of M38 tub and cj2a hood, tailgate, grill and windshield to get the willys stamp on the build.




<a href="http://s1362.photobucket.com/user/Glenn_Woudenberg/media/crate2_zpsc316c3e5.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r695/Glenn_Woudenberg/crate2_zpsc316c3e5.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo crate2_zpsc316c3e5.jpg"/></a>



http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/...ps289e9238.jpg








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Old 07-03-2013, 07:57 AM   #7 (permalink)
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pictures no worky...

I use photobucket to host mine or you can get a red star to attach them directly.
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Old 07-03-2013, 07:59 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I use google picasa. I just right click on the photos, copy the address and put it in the [IMG]link url[/IMG] command to put the pictures directly in your post.

*edit* I feel like I'm following mieser around pirate this morning.
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Old 07-08-2013, 08:20 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I need to find my radiator/ fan solution so I can determine how far forward I can slide the 4.3. I have looked at the solutions on meiser's thread which may work, but I am running the 4l60 E auto and need trans cooling. The unit from Novak has a trans cooler in the main radiator, but when pushed they stated I would need a secondary trans cooler also. I need every inch I can move my engine forward and do not want to sacrifice space to place trans cooler in front of primary radiator.
I am assuming I should cut the shroud pieces off the grill and make the back side flat, then measure the widest space between the headlights for width of radiator? Is there an advantage to let the radiator hang lower than the bottom of the grill a couple inches if the steering column fits under the cross bar?
Has anyone found a remote location for trans cooler that works? Last thing I want is more heat under the hood.
I have read some pros and cons to direct mount to the grill with the radiator. How does flex effect this if the hoses can absorb flex? Seems like a C channel welded to the grill in an upen on top "U" shape, rubber liner,drop the radiator in and some sort of tie down to secure vertical movement would work....I think there is something about this I am missing......
Opinions?
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Old 07-08-2013, 08:31 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Griffin offers some options with built in transmission coolers. There website kinda sucks but there are part numbers for them. I mentioned it before but I would think pretty hard about trying to get a full 28" wide radiator just behind you LED headlights. If they are thin enough it would work really well.

The 7-slat grills are a little narrower between the headlights. Make sure to measure what you have...

The steering shaft needs to pass by the drivers lower corner of the radiator also.

Are you planning on running an engine driven fan or an electric fan? Make sure you have a full shroud either way, and plan space accordingly.

Juggling is fun isn't it.....engine, clearance, driveshaft, steering, brake booster, etc
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Old 07-08-2013, 10:45 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glennwoudenberg View Post
If nothing else this build thread will provide entertainment for the seasoned builders as well as a consolidated source of basic questions that most would be embarrassed to ask.
A little history of the build. I had a 47 cj2a in high school that I blew the stock motor on the first day I bought it ( who knew they only went 45 mph?)
I some how managed to get a pinto engine in it with not much more than a wrench set and hammer. It got passed on to my brother and disappeared to god knows where after that. I always like the vintage look of them .
Last year I started looking for one to buy. Lots of possibilities out there but nothing fit the bill. I wanted a daily driver that gets reasonable mileage, auto transmission,newer motor, hard top for winter, and basically looks in great shape and rides like a modern vehicle.
After lurking for a while and watching build threads I PM'd Mieser to see if he would sign on as a consultant to help me avoid stupid mistakes and steer me in the right direction. He generously agreed and we assembled a grocery list of parts to start looking for.
I bought a welder a proceeded to practice welding by laying beads on every piece of scrap I could find. My weld sculpture is now too heavy to move out of the garage.
My goal is to learn as much as possible during the process, but also to choose my battles carefully. I do not intend to build another car ( but I guess who knows) so I don't feel that learning to rebuild an auto trans or swap axle gears is the best use of my time. Instead I will focus on skills and knowledge that could get me back on the trail if something less catastrophic breaks down...steering, hubs, brakes, fuel, etc. I expect to to have a very good working knowledge of most aspects of the jeep when I am done, as well as improved patience, and a new vocabulary of profanities.

That said here is what I have assembled for this project
Mieser frame with 2x6" belly rail spec'd for Yj springs front and rear
JCR racing weld it yourself front bumper
3x4" closed tube rear bumper with hitch receiver
Front axle is jeep YJ D30 with vacuum disconnect removed and solid TJ shafts installed, 4.88 gears with truetrac posi, discs
Rear axle is jeep TJ D44 4.88 truetrac posi, discs
Drivetrain is 2012 gm 4.3 v6 with 6,000 miles on it with the original 4L60E auto tranny that it came with, all harness, computers, gas pedal retained, but thinned by Jim's performance
Novak adapter to flipped D300 fully rebuilt and ground out to allow front wheel drive.
Northwest fab reverse cable shifters for transfer case
Wide ope design art Carr cable shifter for trans
Painless electric harness
Repro M38 tub
Cj2a windshield and willys stamped hood
Artic top and matching vertical windshield frame
Raceline 17x8.5" monster beadlock wheels
Goodyear MT/R Kevlar 33/11.5/17

I have made some progress and will add pics ASAP.
Cheers!
I've got a blue star aluminum top if you're interested.

And don't be bashful with the questions, it brings out more tech (always good). Read my thread, I ask a ton of dumb questions.
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Old 07-08-2013, 10:52 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I will be running electric fan. I don't think my 4.3 even has a mechanical fan on it. Is there a minimum distance from the shroud to the radiator to allow cross flow for air after pulling it through? I hope to use the Volvo 740 fan/shroud combo.
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Old 07-08-2013, 10:55 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I will be running electric fan. I don't think my 4.3 even has a mechanical fan on it. Is there a minimum distance from the shroud to the radiator to allow cross flow for air after pulling it through? I hope to use the Volvo 740 fan/shroud combo.
In my cj5 with a 4.0 swapped in I have the taurus fan 1/16 from the water pump pully. It's shoehorned in there big time. I've not had any problems from it.
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Old 07-08-2013, 11:02 AM   #14 (permalink)
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What is the minimal distance between the shroud and the radiator?
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Old 07-08-2013, 11:05 AM   #15 (permalink)
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What is the minimal distance between the shroud and the radiator?
With the taurus fan, I trimmed the shroud till the nose of the fan was as close to the fins as I felt comfortable with. Then I just ran some of those spikey zip tie thingys (technical term) through the shroud and fins.
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Old 07-08-2013, 11:08 AM   #16 (permalink)
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So the nose of the fan protrudes far enough past the fan blades to be the limiting factor in how close it can go and still allows sufficient space for air to make its way across the radiator to the fan after being sucked through.

Last edited by Glennwoudenberg; 07-08-2013 at 11:09 AM.
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Old 07-08-2013, 11:17 AM   #17 (permalink)
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So the nose of the fan protrudes far enough past the fan blades to be the limiting factor in how close it can go and still allows sufficient space for air to make its way across the radiator to the fan after being sucked through.
In my application it did. I don't know about the fan you are using. My shroud doesn't even cover the whole radiator, just the majority of it. That taurus fan moves enough air though. Probably why I haven't had any issues. At hwy speeds the fan doesn't even come on, just when I'm crawling or around town.
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Old 07-08-2013, 11:49 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Taurus fan no doubt--go here to get the relays and temp sensors and whatever else you may need---these guys are great to deal with

Mark VIII, Taurus, Two Speed fan relay kit.
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Old 07-08-2013, 12:15 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Taurus fan no doubt--go here to get the relays and temp sensors and whatever else you may need---these guys are great to deal with

Mark VIII, Taurus, Two Speed fan relay kit.
If you can deal with the lack of customer service, I highly recommend the dc controls unit. Was stupid easy to hook up and has a light to show you when it's on and at what speed. Not that you can't hear the damn thing, it's like a b52 under the hood.
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Old 07-08-2013, 12:22 PM   #20 (permalink)
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yes DC has a bad history when it comes to customer service--so I steered clear of them....

here's my Hollister Road story--I ordered a bunch of stuff and I had it for a couple of weeks at least sitting in the seat--on a Saturday the owner calls me up and asks me to check my order, because he thinks I got shorted something--by god he was right and he sent the missing parts overnight to me--enough said, I won't go anywhere else for the parts they sell....
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Old 07-08-2013, 03:15 PM   #21 (permalink)
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How hard is it to make the shroud that completely covers radiator? Looks like some 16 ga with a hole cut in it and the edges bent over, attach it to the c channel that holds radiator in place and attach the fan? If I have the trans cooler in the radiator I will need max flow
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Old 07-09-2013, 07:57 AM   #22 (permalink)
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I think I am going with a griffin radiator with tranny cooler and 16" shroud already on it with a Taurus fan. I have a tranny temp gauge and will monitor temps adding an additional tranny cooler in series if indicated. I understand that JY fans are readily available. The replacement fans are also inexpensive from avariety of sources and for a few extra bucks I would rather not worry about the condition of the junkyard pick. Is it safe to assume that the replacement part will have the same CFM as the OEM part?

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Old 07-09-2013, 08:14 AM   #23 (permalink)
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I think I am going with a griffin radiator with tranny cooler and 16" shroud already on it with a Taurus fan. I have a tranny temp gauge and will monitor temps adding an additional tranny cooler in series if indicated. I understand that JY fans are readily available. The replacement fans are also inexpensive from avariety of sources and for a few extra bucks I would rather not worry about the condition of the junkyard pick. Is it safe to assume that the replacement part will have the same CFM as the OEM part?
Why a taurus and not the volvo unit? The volvo is just about the same thing but has a nice mounting flange from the factory.....

Just make sure you get a full replacement OEM fan, not just an auxiliary fan that comes up when you look up fans at most parts places.
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Old 07-09-2013, 08:18 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Why a taurus and not the volvo unit? The volvo is just about the same thing but has a nice mounting flange from the factory.....

Just make sure you get a full replacement OEM fan, not just an auxiliary fan that comes up when you look up fans at most parts places.
Taurus fans move a ton of cfm and are cheap at the junkyard and are usually very common/easy to find. Don't know how that compares to the volvo fan but that's the reason most go with the taurus.
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Old 07-09-2013, 08:23 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Taurus fans move a ton of cfm and are cheap at the junkyard and are usually very common/easy to find. Don't know how that compares to the volvo fan but that's the reason most go with the taurus.
I think most go with the Taurus fan because they don't know about the volvo fan

It uses the same motor as the Taurus basically the fan blade is SLIGHTLY smaller but has a nice flat built in mounting flange. They are also available as OEM replacements for a dang fair price....$60 or so.

I know the Taurus was a good fan but the mounting always kinda sucked.

The 95-97 Ford Thunderbird or Mercury Cougar fans where also a nice unit. They are kinda like the larger Mark 8 fans. Ford Contours look nice if you have the room too.
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