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Old 12-07-2013, 09:40 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Quick Questions for Quick Answers

Ok so my thought was for the little quick questions that can be answered pretty quick instead of searching for hours and loosing time on the builds

1 Question anyone know the width of a 7/8 heim? more specifically from the hole center to the outer edge opposite the shank. Looking to see if it will hit my rim when mounted before buying one. Could save me 30 bucks

2 do you guys weld these to the front of the bumper or cut a hole and weld on the back and front.
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Old 12-07-2013, 09:42 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I think in this section we are all similar and don't really get all bent out of shape for asking a simple question. We all know to search 1st but sometimes you just need a simple answer and move on. Thanks

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Old 12-07-2013, 10:10 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Old 12-07-2013, 10:21 AM   #4 (permalink)
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On my tow mounts, I cut a hole and welded them front of the bumper (on the outside visible section) and then to the frame on the inside of the bumper. I also welded the inside of the bumper but...

Sometimes welding inside and out on the same joint will weaken the spot. Like if you weld both the front and back on a 1/4" bumper, the welds can weaken the parent metal because they are in the same exact location on both sides of the bumper. Depending on the application this isn't usually a problem, but with something like tow hooks (I flat tow with them), it may not be the best option. I'm sure others can chime in with their experience on the subject.
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Old 12-07-2013, 12:28 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I didn't know that. Thanks. I'll check yours out.


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Old 12-07-2013, 01:30 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I have been thinking for the last couple of months for a new project and since I have a 48 2A and a ls 5.3 basically doing nothing just sitting around I'm thinking of droping the 5.3 in the Willys. It currently has an odd fire buick V6/SM420.

My quick question is has anyone installed an LS motor in a 2A without stretching the front end?

Thinking if I go with corvette crank pulley & accessories it should save a couple of inches on the total length, weight wise from what I have read I think its a wash.
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Old 12-07-2013, 03:19 PM   #7 (permalink)
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anyone know if stock exhaust manifolds shrink if not bolted on? The engine i got the guy handed them to me and Went to put them on today and only 2 bolt holes line up. The 2 in the middle . maybe I have the wrong ones
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Old 12-07-2013, 09:08 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Ive had to stretch a few chevy 350 manifolds to get all the bolt holes to line up, I made something similar to this

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Old 12-07-2013, 11:55 PM   #9 (permalink)
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anyone know if stock exhaust manifolds shrink if not bolted on? The engine i got the guy handed them to me and Went to put them on today and only 2 bolt holes line up. The 2 in the middle . maybe I have the wrong ones
I had this happen once with a toyota manifold. I barbecued it for like 3 hours, then put on welding gloves and slipped it onto the studs. Dunno if it'll work on everything, mine wasn't off more than maybe a 1/32"
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Old 12-07-2013, 11:59 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Thanks. I'll try both those ideas. I thought I was going nuts.


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Old 12-23-2013, 09:09 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Has anyone seen just the brace that goes on the back of the hood for sale anywhere? Or the front brace?
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Old 12-23-2013, 11:18 AM   #12 (permalink)
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The water gutter piece?
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Old 12-23-2013, 11:24 AM   #13 (permalink)
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The water gutter piece?
No, the brace the is welded to the underside of the hood.
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Old 12-23-2013, 11:33 AM   #14 (permalink)
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This piece?
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Old 12-23-2013, 11:36 AM   #15 (permalink)
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This piece?
Yes.
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Old 12-23-2013, 02:26 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Whats up fellows, i'm brand new on here. Got a quick question. I'm in the process of building a 48 cj2 with a 4.3, i'm not slacking in the fabrication and mechanic side of it. What axles would be best to run with? No crawling or deep mud. Looking to run 33's.
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Old 12-23-2013, 02:36 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Whats up fellows, i'm brand new on here. Got a quick question. I'm in the process of building a 48 cj2 with a 4.3, i'm not slacking in the fabrication and mechanic side of it. What axles would be best to run with? No crawling or deep mud. Looking to run 33's.
Narrow track open knuckle D30 in the front is a pretty easy swap.

I built a full float D44 rear using a factory early cj5 housing for the rear.

It has worked out well for me with a v6, 35s, and lots of rocks and deep snow.
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Old 12-24-2013, 07:40 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I have a closed knuckle d27 up front right now in excellent shape, its the back i'm worried about. i'm pretty sure it's that crappy d41 in the back. what would be a suitable replacement for the back without spending too much $? The front is a 4.88 ratio.
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Old 12-24-2013, 08:24 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Is there anyway to change my name (h8sprint)
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Old 12-24-2013, 08:40 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Is there anyway to change my name (h8sprint)
I have searched this before, I think a moderator can change it for you. I do not know if they will. I wanted to change mine, but never asked. When I picked up my willys I was told it was a 1946, after I researched the vin I found it to be a 1948. Hence the name 1946cj2, I should have just stuck with fishin_rod or silent_hunter when I registered for this site. Those are two nnams I use quite a bit.
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Old 12-24-2013, 09:00 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Whats up fellows, i'm brand new on here. Got a quick question. I'm in the process of building a 48 cj2 with a 4.3, i'm not slacking in the fabrication and mechanic side of it. What axles would be best to run with? No crawling or deep mud. Looking to run 33's.
Personally I like Scout 800 axles. They are a tad wider, but not by much. Dana 44 rear Dana 30 front. They come in a number of crazy gearing options. And alot of scouts came with the "all wheel drive" option from the factory, so the limited slip lockers are out there.

I've wheeled hard with a pair out of a '68 Scout 800 v8 for the past decade and have never had any issues. Thats wheeling a HEAVY jeep on 35x14.5 SS Boggers. The only down side is that you usually have to wait 2-3 days for your local NAPA to get replacement parts in.
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Old 12-24-2013, 04:21 PM   #22 (permalink)
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I have a closed knuckle d27 up front right now in excellent shape, its the back i'm worried about. i'm pretty sure it's that crappy d41 in the back. what would be a suitable replacement for the back without spending too much $? The front is a 4.88 ratio.
You can convert the 10-spline D41 to 19-spline D44 axles by changing the side gears if I remember right.

If you could find a complete early cj5 rear D44 with 19-spline axles it would be a little bit of an improvement too. They came factory with 4.88 gears in some versions.

The 2-pc rear axles are the weak point.

You could also convert your D41 to full float using the 19 spline side gears and kit from Herm The Overdrive Guy.

The Dana 41 ring gear isn't that weak, but does have the 10-spine coarse pinion shaft like the very early D44 stuff.

The perfect factory rear axle is the 1970-1971 offset D44 semi-float version with factory 30 spline shafts. Finding them is getting MUCH harder. It is the same width as the D25 or D27
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Old 12-24-2013, 10:35 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Another quick one...

On a stock flat fender how much does the hood overhang the grill face? I moved mine all around and can't measure it. Just trying to figure out some hood/grill/fender stretch stuff. Thanks.
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Old 12-24-2013, 10:48 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Before I stretched it mine over hung by and 1" but it could have been messed with before me.


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Old 12-25-2013, 07:45 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I've got a bone stock '48. i'll try to remember to get that measurement for you. Definitely under an inch
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