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Old 11-19-2014, 07:30 AM   #226 (permalink)
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Looking forward to the pics.
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Old 11-25-2014, 04:27 PM   #227 (permalink)
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Finished up my windshield. Wow it wAs way more tweaked then I originally thought. I ended up making one diagonal cut on each of the arms. Originally I thought that this would work to tilt the windshield back. But it needed a bit more help than that! I had to cut a piece and insert it in on the driver side to bring the frame down to the cowl. It was quit tweaked.








I also finished up the vent cover too.


Here is the final product. I'm thinking of leaving it kind of rough. In reference to the welds. I'm thinking I will primer and sand the welds but not bondo them. I like the idea of the modifications becoming conversational Sparks. Or a knowledgeable passer being able to decipher the subtle changes. What do you guys think? I ended up using 16 ga sheet metal on the sides of the cuts I made for their added support. I probably disn't need them but it made me feel better as they provided extra support. I couldn't fint my protracted to record the angle of the windshield. I did tilt it back more. I would guess an additiona 8-10 deg. But that's just my guess? Here are the rest of the pics



I plan on adding some wire inside the hole under the vent cover




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Old 11-25-2014, 04:31 PM   #228 (permalink)
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On a seperAte problem I can not get my distributor to seat al the way down?? I don't get it? I have tried so many times. I'm on TDC of cylinder one. And my roughy measurement for depth should work? I don't know. It was driving me crazy! Here are the pics of the dist. It's about an 1/8"



Anyone have any ideas?
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Old 11-25-2014, 04:38 PM   #229 (permalink)
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measure down to the oil pump rod and see if it's sticking up to high??
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Old 11-25-2014, 04:47 PM   #230 (permalink)
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Looking good! Did you get the lean angle you were after?
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Old 11-25-2014, 04:58 PM   #231 (permalink)
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measure down to the oil pump rod and see if it's sticking up to high??
I have measured it an I should have 1/8" to 1/4" to go down but I can't get it to go???

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Looking good! Did you get the lean angle you were after?
Yes I did. It is a bit more slopes back. Maybe 8-10deg more? Just a guess as I couldn't find my protractor. Thanks for your suggestions joe! Worked out well. Should make fitting my doors a bit easier with taking the bend out of the arms and not the frame itself
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Old 11-25-2014, 05:02 PM   #232 (permalink)
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On the windshield, you will probably loose a few degrees once you add the cowl seal.


On the distributor, use a long screw driver to turn the oil pump drive so it is where the distributor will drop in to it.
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Old 11-25-2014, 05:27 PM   #233 (permalink)
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On the windshield, you will probably loose a few degrees once you add the cowl seal.


On the distributor, use a long screw driver to turn the oil pump drive so it is where the distributor will drop in to it.
Ya your right on the cowl seal. I will lose a few degrees. Really after I straightened out the frame it looked much better. The tilt I tried to gain will end up being qite negligible. Maybe 5 deg from what it was? I don't know what the stock deg of tilt is in relation to the cowl. But I'll buy another protracted so I can get what mine is. Thanks for the tip on the long screw driver I'll try to turn the oil pump shaft and see if it drops all the way down!
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Old 11-25-2014, 05:42 PM   #234 (permalink)
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It's the oil pump drive. You need to use a big screwdriver to turn rge oil pump shaft slightly. It can be a bit of a pain.
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Old 11-25-2014, 05:57 PM   #235 (permalink)
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It's the oil pump drive. You need to use a big screwdriver to turn rge oil pump shaft slightly. It can be a bit of a pain.
Sweet I will give that a try soon! Never ran across this probe
Before. I was thinking I would have to turn the engine over to turn the oil pump drive. Then I would lose TDC. So I'm glad this may solve my problem with relative ease?? Easier then changing the oil pump out! We will see. Thanks Mieser!
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Old 11-25-2014, 06:32 PM   #236 (permalink)
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The windshield frame looks good, I would like to see a picture of the whole Jeep with it.
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Old 11-25-2014, 07:11 PM   #237 (permalink)
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The windshield frame looks good, I would like to see a picture of the whole Jeep with it.
Thanks,. I like how it turned out myself. I will try to snap a picture of the whole jeep if possible? It pretty tight in the garage.
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Old 11-25-2014, 07:13 PM   #238 (permalink)
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Sweet I will give that a try soon! Never ran across this probe
Before. I was thinking I would have to turn the engine over to turn the oil pump drive. Then I would lose TDC. So I'm glad this may solve my problem with relative ease?? Easier then changing the oil pump out! We will see. Thanks Mieser!
The oil pump isn't connected to the valvetrain till the distributor drive gear is fully in place. You can just use a big flat head screwdriver to turn it one way or the other. You can also prime the engine oil supply too.
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Old 11-25-2014, 07:13 PM   #239 (permalink)
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How much did you end up taking out of the frame to shorten it?
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Old 11-25-2014, 07:29 PM   #240 (permalink)
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How much did you end up taking out of the frame to shorten it?
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2 1/2" horizontally out of the middle. Plus a bit of grinding just to smooth everything out!
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Old 11-25-2014, 08:09 PM   #241 (permalink)
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The oil pump isn't connected to the valvetrain till the distributor drive gear is fully in place. You can just use a big flat head screwdriver to turn it one way or the other. You can also prime the engine oil supply too.
That's right I read that about priming the engine using the oil pump shaft and a long screw driver cut on a drill. I need to do that first. Thanks so much for the reminder Mieser! I was told by the guy that built my engine that I need to use a copper additive due to the cam to rockers uses flat tappets? Anyone know what about this and what is the best stuff to use? Thanks
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Old 11-25-2014, 08:40 PM   #242 (permalink)
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Lucas makes some real good additives. I use the Engine Oil Break-in Additive on the old and newer engines. It has zinc, phosphorus and moly additives.

Read up on starting and what idle to maintain for a time with flat tappet cams. On a brand new cam grind you have to heat up the surfaces of the lobes to harden them for best longevity.
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Old 11-25-2014, 08:42 PM   #243 (permalink)
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That's right I read that about priming the engine using the oil pump shaft and a long screw driver cut on a drill. I need to do that first. Thanks so much for the reminder Mieser! I was told by the guy that built my engine that I need to use a copper additive due to the cam to rockers uses flat tappets? Anyone know what about this and what is the best stuff to use? Thanks
I used regular oil that was suppose to have the higher 'zinc' content. The only ones I could find regularlylocally/affordably are Chevron Premium and Quaker State 'Defy'. Defy is a semi-synthetic so I wouldn't break the engine in on it.

I did chevron premium for the 20 minute break in. Then I used it again for the 1st 500 miles. After that I changed to Quaker State 'Defy'. I would recommend running 10w-40 if you can find it. For me it helps prevent some low rpm tick when the engine is hot.....like running 19 hours on the highway at 3000rpm+

So far so good. I've got 4000+ miles on the new engine. A lot of that was at 3000+ rpm so I think if the cam would have had issues it would have by now. I hope I don't jinx myself....
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Old 11-25-2014, 10:25 PM   #244 (permalink)
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That's right I read that about priming the engine using the oil pump shaft and a long screw driver cut on a drill. I need to do that first. Thanks so much for the reminder Mieser! I was told by the guy that built my engine that I need to use a copper additive due to the cam to rockers uses flat tappets? Anyone know what about this and what is the best stuff to use? Thanks
I used comp cams engine break in additive. I did a 30 min break in then drained it. And used the Joe gibbs Break in oil till 1000 Then to normal oil after that.
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Old 11-26-2014, 07:20 AM   #245 (permalink)
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Thanks for all the suggestions and personal experience guys! Looks like I'll be doing a bit more research on flat tapper break ins. Also on oils and additives. I appreciate all your help!
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Old 12-02-2014, 02:54 PM   #246 (permalink)
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Lucas makes some real good additives. I use the Engine Oil Break-in Additive on the old and newer engines. It has zinc, phosphorus and moly additives.

Here is some of the Lucas's oil additive with zinc. Looks like some good stuff I'm going to use.
[IMG][/IMG]

I have been reading up on the best oil to use in a 225 Buick v6 odd fire. It looks like the 15W 40 is the preferred choice. Such as Rotella or Delo like I use in my 7.3L Diesel engine. Here is a link to what I've read

what oil to use in Cj5 225 6 cylinder - JeepForum.com


Read up on starting and what idle to maintain for a time with flat tappet cams. On a brand new cam grind you have to heat up the surfaces of the lobes to harden them for best longevity.
Joe I found a great read and step by step instructions on the initial start up and break in if a flat tappet camshaft.
http://www.cranecams.com/uploads/breakin/548e.pdf

Thanks for your help Joe.
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Old 12-02-2014, 03:07 PM   #247 (permalink)
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Looks like you are ready to rock! Keep us posted on how it sounds.
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Old 12-06-2014, 09:29 PM   #248 (permalink)
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The windshield frame looks good, I would like to see a picture of the whole Jeep with it.


As good as I could do in my garage. I start the roll cage at the end of January. I'll have it out of the garage in a big warehouse. That way I could get some better pics of it. Like I said before the angle I ended up with, probably isn't much. i did add some increased tilt but not much.
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Old 12-06-2014, 10:38 PM   #249 (permalink)
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Looks sick. For a minute the garage rail looked like a roll bar.
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Old 12-06-2014, 10:58 PM   #250 (permalink)
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Looks sick. For a minute the garage rail looked like a roll bar.
I thought the same thing when I posted the picture. Garage rail is right about in the perfect projection to make you do a double take.
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