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Old 04-22-2014, 07:38 PM   #101 (permalink)
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On the upol did a ton of over spray get on the driveway? also if you start can you stop and finish another day or is the gun like a 1 time use thing? So should you have everything ready to spray when you start. Looks sweet
You can clean the gun, and the kit comes with 4 quart containers the black stuff and a 1qt container of the part b mix. You pour the part b mix into the qt of black stuff to the fill line shake and then spray. Once you mix a qt it has to be sprayed before it hardens.
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Old 04-22-2014, 08:16 PM   #102 (permalink)
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On the upol did a ton of over spray get on the driveway? also if you start can you stop and finish another day or is the gun like a 1 time use thing? So should you have everything ready to spray when you start. Looks sweet
No not much at all got on the driveway. I just thru down a moving blanket. Not much ended up on the blanket tho. It stays pretty where you want it.

As far as the clean up and reuse: THe reducer/ hardener had a bit more than was required to fill the 4 bottles up. Which worked out great because when I finished the 4 bottles. I split the left over into 5 equal parts. Pouring 4 of the 5/5ths into the empty raptor bottles and shaking well. I then hit up all the spots that were hidden around a corners that I originally missed. Finally the last 1/5 th I used for clean up. Took the gun apart and cleaned it with q tips and paper towels. THe gun I can defiantly use again when I do the inside.

As far as touch ups or spraying and not finishing to come back later. The directions say no problem just wipe with a good wax/grease remover and ready to spray again. Pretty cool stuff.

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Looks great! The upol raptor is great stuff. If you need to touch anything up later, I used a spray can of rustoleum satin black and it blended in very well.
Thanks for the suggestion. I has some flat black and used it to touch up a few places. But the satin black would have probably been the best choice. After seeing you used it with much success I knew this is what I was gonna try too.
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Old 04-22-2014, 10:39 PM   #103 (permalink)
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I need some help and or some advice. After spraying the U-pol I started on removing the 5th leaf in my front leaf springs. If you remember these springs are Rubicon Express reverse eye YJ SOA 1.5" lift springs. My hope was by removing the 5th leaf the suspension would drop down a inch or two??? WEll that wasn't the case. The front bumper dropped 3/8th" So my question is.
1. Do I remove the 4th leaf and see if it drops at least 1"??? Or is the suspension going to be too soft?? ONly 3 leafs
2. Do I get stock YJ springs and lose the 1.5" lift from the RE springs?? which would get me very close to my 2" drop! In doing this I lose the reverse eye springs and possibly some compression articulation???

Here is what 8yrs of wheeling did to the bolt thru the spring pack. I ended up going to ACE and getting a 5/16th grade 8 bolt and grinding the hex off the head to get a round head on it.



THe 5th springs in the pack. THe ones removed


In progress




So then I cracked a beer and made a plate out of 16 ga sheet metal to keep my new clutch clean.

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Old 04-22-2014, 11:00 PM   #104 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info on the upol. I have 2 kits here ready to go on but decided to add a tailgate and thinking about redoing the rear fender wells so just waiting for a day off now.


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Old 04-23-2014, 05:25 AM   #105 (permalink)
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I am having the same issues with the bds +2 yj springs. the front is a little too high with the small and 4th leaf out and the rear is too high with only 2 leafs left on the pack!
Pulling leafs just seems like a poor fix. JC whitney has a 20% off code plus free shipping right now and I ordered the 5 leaf pack of crowne stock 5 leaf for the front and the 4 leaf for the back.(yj has four leaf front , 5 leaf back- stock) for just over $300 at my door. I hope to see how it works this weekend.
Can I plan on 1/2-3/4" drop from break in on new springs?
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Old 04-23-2014, 07:28 AM   #106 (permalink)
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I am having the same issues with the bds +2 yj springs. the front is a little too high with the small and 4th leaf out and the rear is too high with only 2 leafs left on the pack!
Pulling leafs just seems like a poor fix. JC whitney has a 20% off code plus free shipping right now and I ordered the 5 leaf pack of crowne stock 5 leaf for the front and the 4 leaf for the back.(yj has four leaf front , 5 leaf back- stock) for just over $300 at my door. I hope to see how it works this weekend.
Can I plan on 1/2-3/4" drop from break in on new springs?
As my bds yj 2" springs break in they are getting softer and flatter. I can tell a huge difference in driving on the curves. Just in the short wheelling I did last week the front and rear bumper dropped a 1/4", but my rig is heavier than yours. Old school to get a softer lower ride was to grind the top of the leaf spring ends thinner. I would not do to much until your rig is fully weighted and the springs are broke in. 2" on sua is not that much. My bds springs are the 4 leaf pack.
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Old 04-23-2014, 09:12 AM   #107 (permalink)
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Good info there guys! Well I'm felling like up need to buy new yj springs and be done with it! I'll look into jc Whitney! Thanks for the heads up on the 20% off
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Old 04-24-2014, 10:05 AM   #108 (permalink)
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I really need some 3/16th " steel bent in the radius of our rear corners of the tub? Anyone have a way or some around I can buy?
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Old 04-24-2014, 10:17 AM   #109 (permalink)
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clamps, torch and hammer and if you can bolt onto the body as you go all the better…that's how I did it, but I wish the leg I had wrapping around was longer, because I couldn't get it to flush out with the other piece. So if it was longer I could've cut it to fit flush….of course I was only bending about 4-5" wide piece of 3/16"….

page 3 post #52 of my build….

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Old 04-24-2014, 01:10 PM   #110 (permalink)
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clamps, torch and hammer and if you can bolt onto the body as you go all the better…that's how I did it, but I wish the leg I had wrapping around was longer, because I couldn't get it to flush out with the other piece. So if it was longer I could've cut it to fit flush….of course I was only bending about 4-5" wide piece of 3/16"….

page 3 post #52 of my build….

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Thanks for the info Chris! My piece will probably be about 8-10" if I remember correctly? I have a feeling it might be a challenge to make the ending side line up well enough like you say!
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Old 04-24-2014, 01:18 PM   #111 (permalink)
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What is the radius of the rear corners? 5"??
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Old 04-24-2014, 01:31 PM   #112 (permalink)
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I think the radius is 3.5" . I know its mentioned in the build your own flatfender thread.
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Old 04-24-2014, 01:45 PM   #113 (permalink)
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I did a 3" radius on some parts I made....



That seemed to be the radius the best I could measure for the INSIDE of the factory sheetmetal surface. The factory sheet metal is about .060 thick ( probably 16 gauge ). That would make the radius you need for corners 3.060 or so.

I think if you used a 3" radius die the corners would probably come out close enough with material springback.
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Old 04-24-2014, 04:25 PM   #114 (permalink)
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Thanks so much for the help guys. I finally found a place after
Much searching to bend a 3" radius out of 3/16th. A 2'x2' - 3/16th sheet bent in a 3" radius. Is gonna cost $200 for 2 of them. Ouchhhhhh. Well I want the comp cut gone so that's what it's gonna cost!
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Old 04-24-2014, 04:29 PM   #115 (permalink)
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Thanks so much for the help guys. I finally found a place after
Much searching to bend a 3" radius out of 3/16th. A 2'x2' - 3/16th sheet bent in a 3" radius. Is gonna cost $200 for 2 of them. Ouchhhhhh. Well I want the comp cut gone so that's what it's gonna cost!
I think you should only need about 18" of material height right? No sense in buying and bending material you don't need.

I think 3/16" is overkill, but that is probably just me.
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Old 04-24-2014, 08:45 PM   #116 (permalink)
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I think you should only need about 18" of material height right? No sense in buying and bending material you don't need.

I think 3/16" is overkill, but that is probably just me.
Yes your right Mieser. 18" tall is all I need. I just drew a quick sketch of what I'm faxing tomorrow to a local steel supplier who is going to bend the piece. I can understand how 3/16th may be a bit over kil. That is what I have on there now. So I'm not going to change it! It will take a rock beating and hopefully I'll just need some touch up paint and I won't be doing much body work in the future! thanks for the radius picture. Made it crystal clear for me!

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Old 04-28-2014, 10:20 PM   #117 (permalink)
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So I got a bit more done. Not much in the way of pictures tho. I did get my crank sensor piece made. It took no joke 6mo to have this made. Not that it is difficult to do. I would assume not. but we all know what assuming does. The problem is its 1/4" to large. The tabs sticking up hit my water pump. So I either notch the shit out of the bottom bolt and part of the pump housing or I take it back. Going to drop it off tomorrow and hopefully get it back in a reasonable time frame?? This piece has 3 tabs at 120 deg apart. The computer for the TBI unit needs 3 signals 120 degs apart. This piece makes the odd fire engine produce an even fire signal. Picked up by a crank trigger sensor I will mount.







Primed the rear section


Mounted my fuel cell for the last time.
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Old 05-02-2014, 11:20 AM   #118 (permalink)
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So I picked up the rear corners I had bent in the 3" radius! Pretty damn close to
Perfect! Better tan I could have done with a torch no doubt! My question is. How have you guys been marking where you cut the wheel wells out for the tire to go on full compression? I saw "Fab Tech" in his build he cut out cardboard and attached it to the axle and used it as a stencil! Seems like a good idea. Just wanted to know what others have done.
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Old 05-02-2014, 01:06 PM   #119 (permalink)
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I had a hard time trying to cut mine to look right, but I had to work around a preexisting cut and shortening from a cj7. I just made a cardboard pattern, traced and cut it. I would like to re do a better job later or maybe add some tube fender flares.
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Old 05-02-2014, 03:59 PM   #120 (permalink)
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I've cut mine twice and they still rub. You have to have full articulation, not just compression Maybe the 3rd time I'll get it right.
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Old 05-02-2014, 04:16 PM   #121 (permalink)
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I've cut mine twice and they still rub. You have to have full articulation, not just compression Maybe the 3rd time I'll get it right.
It took me 1.5 tries to get it right. If I had links I probably would have just moved the axle forward about 1/4-3/8". I didn't want to mess with the wheelbase so I ended up adding a TOUCH more taper to the rear of the opening when I welded the rod to the edge.

After this last trip to Moab I was really surprised how much it didn't rub. For being so low with such clown tires, I didn't have anything but a HAIR of paint rubbed off the new edge of the wheel opening. Now it is nice and round so it doesn't dig into the tire so no big deal.

I think a radius about 1" larger than the tire static radius is a good place to start for the opening. I did 1/2" and it was just a bit too tight.

To draw a nice clean radius you can clamp a scrap of material the body and make a compass out of some wire and a sharpie to draw the perfect arc. This should let you get the center point of the arc somewhat repeatable. If you really want to get fancy you can even do an ellipse with two pivot points and a loop of wire....
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Old 05-08-2014, 11:35 PM   #122 (permalink)
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I have had some major over sights on my end. It has put me back quite a few days. But its all for the best. My rear suspension is smoken now!!! Remember I widened my tub in the rear cargo area? Well that was a big waste of time. When I originally flexed the suspension at ride height to check for clearence of the rear inner tire against the tube, it worked. Well the problem is I never checked it with full droop on the opposing tire. Therein lies my problem!!! Damnnnnnnnnnnnnn. I never thought that the tire would rotate that far into the tub. But it does.... So I had to re do the rear suspension. Air shock mounts on the axle, Limit straps (which I had know about), Notch my frame (Ughhhhh) THe end product did give me minimally more space but looks like shit IMO...... With the seat back there and all painted one color it wont be so bad. But fuk,.... I gotta roll with it, it's to late in the game.







I was able to get the majority of the steering column extension piece done. I used a 2x2" piece of angle iron for the main structure. Then I cut pieces of 16 Ga steel sheet for the end (triangle) pieces that mount the angle iron to the dash.







I had do do a little bit of trimming to some motor mount brackets. The steering shaft didn't touch but was close at a few places.







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Old 05-08-2014, 11:49 PM   #123 (permalink)
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Here are the pics of the axle and frame work. Im finally moving forward after the last 4 to 5 days of re doing the rear. Luckily a great friend of mine came down to help last saturday. I was called into work (on call) at mid day but Jared continued working on my rig and had the majority of the planing and peeping done when I got back. :smoking: That way we could start the fab'n up of the new locations.









I ended up with 15 1/2" of true travel out of my 16" Fox air shocks. These are some pics during mock up. In these pics we still had another 2" of up travel to go. Ill get some more pics of the finish product when I build the bump stops.





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Old 05-09-2014, 06:41 AM   #124 (permalink)
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glitches that you least expect really drive me nuts, especially when you thought you had done everything possible to avoid them….

but like you said once the seat is in you won't notice it..so carry on….
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Old 05-09-2014, 10:29 AM   #125 (permalink)
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I had a similar type feeling when I got online to find a fan for my radiator, and discovered I did not have enough room. I had to move my grill all the way up against the grill guard to make it work. Yesterday, I was installing my rear 34" wide cj6 seat, thinking man I wish I would had made the rear of the tub wider like Mykul's, then I could have fit the newer 42" wide seat . At least you discovered it early enough to fix, unlike my dash drip rail. Keep moving forward, you are making good progress.
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