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Old 05-09-2014, 11:55 AM   #126 (permalink)
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Thanks guys! It was a bummer finding out all my work was for nothing! Good thing you didn't widen your tub. Probably would have been in my situation. The worse of it all was going backwards in the progress! I'm running out of time and that surly didn't help. I have all the parts to complete my fuel and brakes now! Next on the list is finish my passenger side front fender, grille and hood. Still need to figure out the seat belt mounting points! Then prep for paint!
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Old 05-10-2014, 11:37 PM   #127 (permalink)
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Made a couple bump stops out of some extra pieces I had laying around. Hopefully Monday I can get the final parts of the rear suspension finished up. And start on the front fenders and grille on Tuesday. THen I should have the fabrication part of this damn near done??? Things should move much quicker when Im not cutting and grinding metal all day.





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Old 05-15-2014, 03:03 PM   #128 (permalink)
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More progress. I re did the notch in the frame. Have the bump stops done. The rear wheel wells back in and most of the front fenders complete. Still need to weld the strips to the edges of my wheel wells and hood that was cut. Here are the pics.










At full compression. You can appricate the need for the inner tube to be redone in this photo



The re done frame notching. If there is one thing I love it's doing something twice cuz you half ass'd the first time.



A bit of my front fender work for the lights after the Mieser "Highline"





I switched the headlights to oppisite sides (left to right) and did some modifying to the brackets. So I could get the mount on the fender and not next to the radiator. I worked out oK. They have a tilted kick backed Swagger now.





Anyways that's where I am left at.
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Old 05-15-2014, 04:49 PM   #129 (permalink)
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I'm starting to like that hi-line look. Maybe that will be in my distant future
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Old 05-15-2014, 07:23 PM   #130 (permalink)
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I agree it gives it a meaner look IMO! All while lowing the CG and keeping the same articulation of the suspension. Mieser was on too something here!
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Old 05-15-2014, 08:41 PM   #131 (permalink)
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I agree it gives it a meaner look IMO! All while lowing the CG and keeping the same articulation of the suspension. Mieser was on too something here!
ah shucks.....
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Old 05-20-2014, 10:06 PM   #132 (permalink)
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Another big mile stone accomplished with the build. I finally have the upol sprayed on the inside of the tub. I ended up using 4 liters for the underneath of the tub. I could have used 5 but 4 was fine. Today I used 7 liters for everything. I was able to get a fat coat on everything. Leaving me with 1 liter left over for touch up or some extra pieces later. I sprayed the rear wheel wells, front fenders (inside and outside), rear gas tank section and the underneath of the hood. It was a grueling few days getting all the prep work and priming done. But Finally....















I welded a 1/4" piece to the lip of the hood where it was cut for the high line fenders.


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Old 05-21-2014, 08:15 AM   #133 (permalink)
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lookin' good….
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Old 05-21-2014, 07:01 PM   #134 (permalink)
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Cheese and Rice Man. You are going to town on that thing. I like it.
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Old 05-21-2014, 08:17 PM   #135 (permalink)
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WOW, welding that 1/4 inch piece on the hood looks great. That must have taken a lot of patience. Not to mention skill. It really finishes that hood. I hope that when I start my flat fender I take the time to do that kinda detail.

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Old 05-22-2014, 10:22 AM   #136 (permalink)
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Thanks very much for all the compliments guys. I feel like everything is finally coming together. Hopefully now the progress start picking up and moving a little quicker. While I was looking through Mieser's build thread I saw that he used a dayco upper radiator hose. Well,.. no one around here carries the Dayco brand. Apparently Gateshas the monopoly. So I use the gates cross-reference. Which I believe was 20221? Well that one didn't work so I went to Napa and started digging around through the hoses and found the perfect fit after a little trim. Here is the hose used with a picture of how much I had to cut off to make it work.







Oh and here is what my switch panel will look like!
It has my rear cutting brakes with Swaglok ball valves, ARB switches will be at the bottom, USB and 3 mm jack will be my radio and all the switches to run all my accessories.

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Old 05-22-2014, 10:35 AM   #137 (permalink)
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Take a silver sharpie and write the hose number on the hose. When the sticker falls off, your a 1000 miles from home, and you can't find your notes......

My upper hose was for a crossflow radiator with the the radiator inlet on the other side
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Old 05-22-2014, 10:41 AM   #138 (permalink)
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Mykul Are those turn knobs for brakes front and rear?
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Old 05-22-2014, 11:23 AM   #139 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Take a silver sharpie and write the hose number on the hose. When the sticker falls off, your a 1000 miles from home, and you can't find your notes......

My upper hose was for a crossflow radiator with the the radiator inlet on the other side
Ohh ya I missed that! Hahah no wonder it didn't work! Haha

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Mykul Are those turn knobs for brakes front and rear?
They are both for the rear! Right and left cutting brakes. Doubed as emergency brakes with both turned to the off position!
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Old 05-22-2014, 12:38 PM   #140 (permalink)
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Here is a pic of what I cut off! Sorry I thought it was included in the original post
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Old 05-24-2014, 09:55 AM   #141 (permalink)
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I was thinking of doing cutting breaks but I have a spool wouldn't I need I be able to disengage the rear ( make open) to get it to work? Also after you etch primed your bare metal how long did you wait before appling the raptor and did you have to sand te primer?


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Old 05-24-2014, 12:43 PM   #142 (permalink)
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I was thinking of doing cutting breaks but I have a spool wouldn't I need I be able to disengage the rear ( make open) to get it to work? Also after you etch primed your bare metal how long did you wait before appling the raptor and did you have to sand te primer?


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You would be fine having a spool in the rear! You just need a twin stick t case! So you could disengage the rear power all together. It would still work. It would be optimal if you made the rear open but not needed. I waited one day between priming and spraying the upol. Really about 14 hrs. And no I didn't sand the primer! It dried rough with lots of texture to it so I didn't feel I needed too!
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Old 05-24-2014, 12:52 PM   #143 (permalink)
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I'm looking for some opinions on the way to set up my power steering cooler! I have two options. One is run this cooler on the back side of my radiator. So the hot side.
This cooler. Which is what I used previously. Only I used it mounted to the front of the radiator.

Or I could use this. Which is what I used to cool my TH 350.

Mounted to the underneath of my cargo area. Remembering that I have the Vanco hydro boost and this power steering pump.

So am I asking too much of my power steering pump running long lines to the underneath of my cargo area and back? Or will I be fine with the smaller one mounted to the hot side of the radiator?
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Old 05-24-2014, 01:20 PM   #144 (permalink)
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Great thanks.


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Old 05-24-2014, 08:19 PM   #145 (permalink)
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Found the bottom radiator hose! Again it is from napa and gates is the brand of hose. I had to cut both ends. I set the amounts I trimmed off on top of the hose so you could get a good visual.




Oh and Mieser I'm doing your idea with the silver marker! Thanks for the tip! It's a good one!
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Old 05-25-2014, 03:20 AM   #146 (permalink)
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Maybe something like this?

Transmission Oil Cooler Dual Pass Alloy Finned 30cm 12" Hot Rod Custom Show Kit | eBay
They come in different lengths as well and what I am thinking of using. 18" is usually what is used for transmissions. Can get dual pass ones in case it works out better to have both ports at one end.
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Old 05-25-2014, 04:14 PM   #147 (permalink)
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That is a nice cooler and would do a great job of cooling the power steering system. But I really would like to use one of the two I have instead of buying another cooler. I do appreciate the help.
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Old 05-25-2014, 10:03 PM   #148 (permalink)
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Today I finished up the bracket for my crank sensor. I am using this sensor as a RPM signal for the computer. (Fuel injecting an odd fire engine) Even fire engines you would just run the wire to your "tach" signal at the distributor. So to make an even fire signal for the computer to read, (and not think the engine is constantly misfiring) out of an odd fire engine you make a plate with three tabs on it. Each tab being 120 deg apart. I had this made at a machine shop for me. THis gets bolted in between the harmonic balancer and the crank pulley.



Continued in next post....

This gives the computer 3 even signals for interpreting the RPM of the engine at any given time. Making an odd fire engine seem to be even fire.

I bought the Holley Crank trigger system 566-111Holley Performance Products Big Block Chevy Crank Trigger Kit 556-111 I used as much of the kit as I could. I had to modify some things. THis is how today went.

The only logical place (to me) to secure this bracket was off this. Im not 100% sure what it is? I think for a mechanical fuel pump??



I cut this piece out of 3/16th" steel and drilled a few holes for the mounting bracket.

Bracket assembled


I bolted the bracket to the piece I just made and held it up to tack it in place. The directions say the sensor must be 0.020 to 0.030 away from the rotating tabs. So while tacking the sensor bracket in the right place I folded and taped a piece of construction paper I had laying around to the bottom of the sensor. THis would keep me at my 0.025 space needed away form the tab. This way I could press firmly on everything to get a good tack to hold.



Once tacked with clearance on both sides I took it apart to weld it up. This is what it looked like


Once everything was bolted tight. I needed to add one of the four supplied shims. In order to reach me desired 0.025 distance again. I rotated the engine using a large ratchet on the crank bolt. Doing this I wanted to make sure all 3 tabs cleared. and when I did I found that.....


On the forward side of the harmonic balancer there was a spot where the sensor contacted the balancer. So I used my flap disk to shave away some of the plastic coating on the sensor. I also made a spacer to shim out the sensor away from the pulley. First I use a piece of 1/8" stock but it turned out to be too thick. I then made one out of 16ga steel and it was perfect.

Here is the shim


Here is the amount I shaved off the sensor with the shim bolted up


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Old 05-25-2014, 10:10 PM   #149 (permalink)
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After all said and done this is what it looked like.





Now this altogether took me about 4 hours to do. Lots of bolting it up and checking and taking back apart. and so on and so on..... I also used to of the locking nuts on the back of the bolts going thru the bracket I made. The locking bolts that have the top to threads pinched, you know? Those ones. Anyway its all bolted up and ready to be wired. Now I can mount my proportioning valve and bend all my break lines. I will continue this in greater detail when I cover the wiring part of this project.. But for now this was my experience with building the mounting bracket for the crank sensor.
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Old 05-25-2014, 10:39 PM   #150 (permalink)
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Looking very good! what do you think the time frame is for having it ready to go?
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