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Old 12-12-2013, 11:08 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Mykul's CJ3A build

So this is my build,

CJ3A I bought from my brother. He had two at the time an MB and the 3A. The 3A needed more work to be used the way we used our jeeps. As the previous owner before used the 3A for mud drags. I'm drawn to rock crawling. Picking a line, trying to conqure that line with, out spinning a tire? prolly not. But by letting the suspension and gearing do there jobs most challenging obsticles have been overcome with my slow and controlled driving technique. So the transfirmation from mud drag to rocks begin.

Im gonna keep this short. I grew up in Placerville CA. My father introduced me to wheel'n the rubicon when I was around 12 yrs old. At age 13 I was driving my fathers suzuki Samari thru the Rubicon. From that day on wheel'n has been engrained in me. I had a few Toyota trucks, a 302 Willys, (sold it for all new snowboarding equipment one year. Still kick my own ass for that one) Young and Dumb.... Anyways, I have had this jeep for about 8 years and this is its 3rd build. This was the first stage with YJ springs. Worked awsome. Looked great
[IMG][/IMG]


I have increased the WB a few times. The second stage I linked the rear and pushed the rear axle out another 6 or 8 more inches?? In this stage I Comp cut the corners. Really wish I never did that But again the rig worked amazing.


So here we are now Im gonna increase from my current 90" WB to 101" WB. Im doing this by I extended the frame 10" with some 2x4 rectangle tubing. Put some fish plates on it and its done. Easy as hell and came out good. Now I know a lot of you think this is stupid and I should just make a custom frame. But I have been wheeling this frame and boxing it in for 8 yrs. Its proven itself worthy and Im keeping it. The frame is the foundation of this rig. (pun intended)

Im going to try to update this thread as much as I can. The goal is to be done by June 2014. Im starting this build thread a little late, as I never intended to do a build thread of this project but after Mieser's "More" thread. I decided I wanted to give back to this section of Pirates; that I have enjoyed and learned from for many months. I have a 20 month old son named Sylar which has quickly become my favorite person in the world. It's just my wife, Skylar and myself. So time is limited. Being the Father, Husband and provider for the family. We live in the bay area and my parents are in Placerville. Her's are in New York, so its just us three! As you can prolly guess each hour I get to work on this project is not taken for granted. My build (this time) is a freshly Rebuilt Buick 225/Sm420/Dana 20 (teralow gears/twin stick)/ Dana 30 front w/ ARB and chromoly shafts/ Dana 44 rear w/ free float chromolys/ARB. I have wheeled these axles for years and never broke one. Been thru the Rubicon countless times, Fordyce Jeep trail, Lake Barrett Jeep trail and all over the El Dorado National forest. Never broke a u joint or shaft so Im not upgrading to 60's till I atleast break something. Here is a quick run down of what my plans are for this build.

-Clean up the frame (lots of crap welded to it that doesnt need to be there)
-Mount my new drive train
-Extend the tub at the doors 10"
-Lower the general Center of gravity
-Actually put some paint on the tub
-Extend the roll cage
-Mount a third seat for my son
-Fuel inject the 225

Should work and wheel well when done. Time will tell and your all welcome to join the build adventure. I know a lot of you have some great ideas and suggestions so I think plans that I have in my head will change. This Jeep will be used for fun and family wheeln adventures. All comments and suggestions are welcome
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Old 12-12-2013, 11:14 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Frame work so far.





Other pieces Im working with



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Old 12-12-2013, 11:23 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Vanco Hydro boost. Works amazing


Got a FlowKooler water pump put on today and the valve covers bolted down during my little guys nap.
Cleaned my garage and got ready for Saturday. My wife is giving me a day to get the motor mounts made and the trans mounts done. Im one guy and a smal garage.



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Old 12-13-2013, 07:05 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Mike

It looks great! Sounds like a proven package that is getting a killer refresh! The extension in the body is the most noticeable change that I think you will like the best.

Your 3a looks well on its way to being finished already. It is so cool that you will bring up your son on the same trails that you grew up on.

Let me know if there is anything I can help out with. We have access to just about anything you may need. We have all the equipment (benders, notchers, welders) for your new roll cage or anything else you may need. Besides that may be a good excuse to get you and the family down to SoCal for a weekend or longer get away.

I also have some spare parts for you here that you can have for the ride. They are just taking up space and they will not be used on mine.
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Old 12-13-2013, 08:28 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Joe I would still love to make it down to SoCal to meet up with you. Good excuse to motivate me to do it, with you having that amazing shop. If not that to run some of your trails this summer.

Thanks for the offer on some parts. If I need something Ill see if you have it lying around.

YOur right about being able to take my son on the same trails I grew up on. Im very much looking forward to sharing the wheel'n experience and a love for nature with him.
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Old 12-13-2013, 09:33 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Is the front driveshaft going to be able to clear the passenger side header/exhaust?

I tried to use that same Speedway engine mount without luck. The crossmember ended up being in the way of the front driveshaft and front diff. Mine is kinda mutant low but it wasn't even close.
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Old 12-13-2013, 09:59 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Is the front driveshaft going to be able to clear the passenger side header/exhaust?

I tried to use that same Speedway engine mount without luck. The crossmember ended up being in the way of the front driveshaft and front diff. Mine is kinda mutant low but it wasn't even close.
Your right. It prolly won't work with that set up! I bought it cuz it was cheap and a possiblity. But after reading your thread more. I saw you tried using it without success. I actually have had the Novak 225 motor mounts that I bought 6 yrs ago sitting in a box. I would like to use those and maybe use the speedway crossmember for the tranny. Has anyone used the Novak motor mounts?? Would love to see a pic if someone had got one?
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Old 12-15-2013, 10:46 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I had about six hours to work on this yesterday. Im moving in the right direction but its a slow progress. I got the Frame cleaned up some more by cutting off the old motor mounts.


I wanted the belly pan to be mounted to the 2x2 square tubing I have welded to the bottom of my frame. This is where my old belly pan mounted to. I figured I would have enough room to close the hood if I was 2 inches lower than the frame rails. So this is how it sits. I was a bit worried about putting the weight of the engine on the oil pan but it seemed to hold the weight no problem.. Any thoughts on this?


From my measurements I should have about 3/4 of and inch by the time I put on my 1/4" body mounts before the air filter contacts the hood. Now my rear lower links stick down below where I plan on my belly pan being so I will never really have a flat belly pan unless I redo my lower links. Hummmm

Here is the body cut up. Looks like Im gonna just cut the entire floor out and redo the whole thing. Lots of rust.



My dad came by. It was his first time seeing or using a plasma cutter. He was pretty impressed with how it worked.



Any help or comments is appreciated!
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Old 12-16-2013, 06:26 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Looks good brother!

Are you going to finish boxing the frame in the few places left?

What are your plans with the stretch? Looks like a nice solid body to work with.
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Old 12-16-2013, 12:37 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Very nice build. I'm interested in the frame mods you've done. I'm still on the fence about building a new one, or working from a stock platform. I've got same hydroboost unit, and it works very well. Subscribed!
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Old 12-16-2013, 11:34 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Looks good brother!

Are you going to finish boxing the frame in the few places left?

What are your plans with the stretch? Looks like a nice solid body to work with.
Yes Im going to finish boxing in the frame in the few places left. I moved on to mounting the drive train because I wanted to take advantage of an extra set of hands. Makes a tough day trying to move all that weight on an engine hoist by yourself. Also I wanted to get the bigger parts done like cutting the body and mounting the drive train before the rain starts. I can make and weld those other pieces for the frame easily in my garage.

My plans with the stretch is 10" in the doors and possibly some in the cargo area? I may need the extra room for my son's seat I need to instal? I was thinking 3 to 4 inches in the cargo area would be nice but thats a lot of work for 3 or 4 inches. So I'll have to see how that all works out?

THe body is pretty solid but the entire floor will have to be replaced. Quit a bit of rot underneath the plates where my cage tied into the frame.



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Very nice build. I'm interested in the frame mods you've done. I'm still on the fence about building a new one, or working from a stock platform. I've got same hydroboost unit, and it works very well. Subscribed!
My frame mods are the addition of some bumpers made of 2x4 square tubing welded in. And the 10" frame extention pieces welded in to extend the WB. THe rest of my WB came from moving the front axle forward and the rear axle backwards. The majority of the frame was already boxed in from the earlier builds I have done and thru out the years I have owned it.

Yes that Vanco hydroboost unit is Awesome.
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Old 12-17-2013, 06:40 AM   #12 (permalink)
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My plans with the stretch is 10" in the doors and possibly some in the cargo area? I may need the extra room for my son's seat I need to instal? I was thinking 3 to 4 inches in the cargo area would be nice but thats a lot of work for 3 or 4 inches. So I'll have to see how that all works out?

THe body is pretty solid but the entire floor will have to be replaced. Quit a bit of rot underneath the plates where my cage tied into the frame.:
I added 5" in the hood, 8" in the doors and moved the axle back 2" in mine. The stretch in the door area is the most noticeable gain in space.

I contemplated the rear stretch but decided against it. The stretch in the rear cargo area is a lot of work for a very small gain.
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Old 12-17-2013, 09:11 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I did 3 in cargo 10ish in the door and 8 in the hood. It's very comfortable and plenty of room so far.


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Old 12-17-2013, 07:44 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I added 5" in the hood, 8" in the doors and moved the axle back 2" in mine. The stretch in the door area is the most noticeable gain in space.

I contemplated the rear stretch but decided against it. The stretch in the rear cargo area is a lot of work for a very small gain.
I do agree its would be a lot of work. Now if I need the space then it will have to happen. But I dont want to do anymore than 4" at the most. I think it will look funny with my comp cut if I went more. Joe you know the best way to bend some 3/16 steel to make the rear corner bend? I would really like to ditch my comp cut and go back to some amount of rear panel. I was thinking of just adding it to the corner guards I have.

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I did 3 in cargo 10ish in the door and 8 in the hood. It's very comfortable and plenty of room so far.


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Did you add the 3" cuz you needed the room? Or did you want to make the body a more symmetrical/ even looking stretch???

Thanks for the comments guys.
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Old 12-17-2013, 11:52 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I do agree its would be a lot of work. Now if I need the space then it will have to happen. But I dont want to do anymore than 4" at the most. I think it will look funny with my comp cut if I went more. Joe you know the best way to bend some 3/16 steel to make the rear corner bend? I would really like to ditch my comp cut and go back to some amount of rear panel. I was thinking of just adding it to the corner guards I have.



Did you add the 3" cuz you needed the room? Or did you want to make the body a more symmetrical/ even looking stretch???

Thanks for the comments guys.
I did it to make it all look symmetrical
Silent hunter re did his from comp cut. It's explained in his build thread if I remember.


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Old 12-18-2013, 07:20 AM   #16 (permalink)
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That's awesome!! Thanks so much for that info! I will look for
It in silent hunter's build thread!
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Old 12-18-2013, 07:34 AM   #17 (permalink)
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We can roll some sheetmetal for the corner for you if needed. We can get it close so you can tack it in and cut the wheelwell back out. Just let me know if you need anything. Do you still have my number?
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Old 12-18-2013, 11:09 AM   #18 (permalink)
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We can roll some sheetmetal for the corner for you if needed. We can get it close so you can tack it in and cut the wheelwell back out. Just let me know if you need anything. Do you still have my number?
That would be awesome Joe! Yes I still
Have your number! I'll give you a text in the next few days! Thanks so much Joe!
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Old 12-19-2013, 09:02 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Got a little more work done. I used the Novak 225 Motor mounts that I have had sitting in a box for 6 yrs or so. They worked great I feel. Solid mounts that were very easy to use. They have bolts on the side to adjust the mounts up or down. Think I may just weld those insead of using the supplied hardware. I just have everything tacked into place until I finish the trans mounts. Still have a bit of cutting and grinding to do on the motor mounts but here is what they look like. A little more progress in the right direction.




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Old 12-20-2013, 07:07 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Those are tuning out great! I would leave the bolts in them till you have the hood back on and it is at ride height. This way you can make sure the Carb flange is level and it is up as close to the hood as possible for the most clearance.
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Old 01-05-2014, 12:15 AM   #21 (permalink)
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I had about 4 hrs today to get the engine and transmission mounts finished up. And happy to say they are done. They're not the prettiest but with a little paint...??? well they work and are in.


My garage buddy





With my initial measurements in deciding where to weld in the motor mounts. I gave myself a 1/4 from the top of the air filter to the center seam of the hood. All said and done I ended up with 1/8 inch. So I trimmed another 1/8 inch of the hood seam giving myself, now a 1/4 inch of clearance. So with the addition of the grille rope that sits on top of the grille I should get another 1/16 to and 1/8th. THat gives me a bit over a 1/4 inch of clearance. Do you think thats enough with motor flex???



Mocked up how the MB grille is going to look.


Progress in the forward direction.
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Old 01-05-2014, 08:04 AM   #22 (permalink)
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The clearance needed for the hood is determined by the amount of flex in the engine mounts. You can also use a limit strap for the engine.
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Old 01-05-2014, 09:06 AM   #23 (permalink)
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My engine moves around more than I would like, especially on bad washboard roads with full air pressure in the tires. Since I have a hole in the hood for the air cleaner tube I can see it move. I am running stock style rubber mounts.

I would say you will be fine most of the time.

Can you drop the air cleaner any. That assembly looks taller than it needs to be. Maybe a drop base or something?
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Old 01-05-2014, 06:34 PM   #24 (permalink)
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The clearance needed for the hood is determined by the amount of flex in the engine mounts. You can also use a limit strap for the engine.
Ok that makes since. THe mounts are a bit softer rubber than I would expect. Nothing like poly... The large bottom rubber disk in the mount sits in a metal dish.... which I guess adds a bit of stiffness to the overall integrity of the mount itself. I think 1/4 inch + should be good then.

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My engine moves around more than I would like, especially on bad washboard roads with full air pressure in the tires. Since I have a hole in the hood for the air cleaner tube I can see it move. I am running stock style rubber mounts.

I would say you will be fine most of the time.

Can you drop the air cleaner any. That assembly looks taller than it needs to be. Maybe a drop base or something?
You have a hole in your hood?? I guess I never noticed. Im gonna have to visit your thread again. I loved the pic of your rig next to the stock Cherokee. Just guess I never noticed a hole. Is a drop base something I would buy or make?? I'll have to look again at the base. I do think the ring/base that the air filter physically sits on can be trimmed down some??
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Old 01-05-2014, 07:37 PM   #25 (permalink)
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It's subtle....



My engine is REALLY high in the chassis. I wanted the most clearance possible under the belly since it sits so low.

There are lots of drop base air cleaners on the market.

Is that TBI fuel injection on your odd fire?
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